View allAll Photos Tagged Functional
canon ae-1 program +
canon fd 50mm f1.8 s.c. +
fujifilm superia 200 (expired - 1 year)
no post processing or cropping, just as scanned.
taken at manual mode.
makinenin fonksiyonlarını test etmek amacıyla hızlıca çektiğim fotoğraflardan biri.
herhangi bir oynama veya kırpma yok, tarayıcıdan ne çıktıysa o.
manuel modda çekildi.
Chaise Longue (LC/4)
Le Corbusier (Charles-Édouard Jeanneret) (French, born Switzerland. 1887-1965), Pierre Jeanneret (Swiss, 1896-1967) and Charlotte Perriand (French, 1903-1999)~ www.moma.org/collection/object.php?object_id=2796
As seen on a recent visit to The Museum of Modern Art, New York, NY.
Leica Summilux 25mm f/1.4 on a G2
[ 0.005 sec (1/200) | f/1.4 | FLength 25 mm | ISO 400 ]
Custom built by Richard Gibbs and rebarrelled by Dennis Sorensen of BC, Canada.
The typical functional changes were made to this rifle. The butterknife-style bolt handle that required high mount scope bases was replaced with a standard M98 bolt with a turned down handle. The safety is a nice aftermarket unit, replacing the oddball left side Brno model 21/22 factory safety. The Brno model 21/22 round top action was expertly polished, drilled and tapped, allowing for the installation of vintage Redfield bases. It currently sports a nice Leupold VX-2 1-4x20 scope with standard Leupold low steel rings.
The rifle has been expertly re-barrelled (21-1/8"), but it is a faithful reproduction of the original barrel contour, and includes the original Brno model 21 front and rear sights and barrel band.
***
In May of 2015, this lovely rifle was refinished.
-- All metal parts were re-polished and beautifully colour case hardened by Oskar Kob.
-- The expertly re-profiled DWM M98 barrel and FN trigger were properly rust-blued by Martini Gunmakers.
-- The beautiful Brno model 21H stock was carefully refinished in a traditional honey-blonde matte oil finish.
-- The stock was also re-checkered with recut borders by Martini Gunmakers.
-- The vintage Redfield scope bases were rounded and reshaped by Martini Gunmakers.
-- Canadian-made Levy's leather sling.
The model and its assembly:
My second attempt to create a functional H0 scale what-if locomotive – and after I “only” did a color variant with some cosmetic changes on the basis of a Märklin V160/BR 216 diesel locomotive, I wanted something more special and challenging. However, kitbashing model locomotives with a metal chassis that includes a functional motor, respective drivetrain/gearing and electronics is not as easy as gluing some plastic parts together. And finding “matching” donor parts for such a stunt is also not as easy as it may seem. But what would life be without attempts to widen its boundaries?
This time I wanted an electric locomotive. Inspiration (and occasion) somewhat struck when I stumbled upon a running/functional chassis of a Märklin E 10/BR 110 (#3039), just without light and naturally missing the whole upper hull. Due to its incompleteness, I got it for a reasonable price, though. With this basis I started to watch out for eventual (and affordable) donor parts for a new superstructure, and remembered the collectible, non-powered all-plastic locomotive models from Atlas/IXO.
The good thing about the Märklin 3039 chassis was that it was just a solid and flat piece of metal without integrated outer hull elements, headstock or side skirts, so that a new hull could (theoretically) be simply tailored to fit over this motorized platform. Finding something with the exact length would be impossible, so I settled upon an Atlas H0 scale Nederlands Spoorwegen Series 1200 locomotive model, which is markedly longer than the German BR 110, due to its six axles vs. the E 10/BR 110’s four. Another selling point: the NS 1200’s body is virtually blank in its middle section, ideal for shortening it to match the different chassis. Detail of the Atlas plastic models is also quite good, so there was the potential for something quite convincing.
Work started with the disassembly of the static Atlas NS Class 1200 model. It's all-styrene, just with a metal plate as a chassis. Against my expectations the model's hull was only held on the chassis by two tiny screws under the "noses", so that I did not have to use force to separate it. The body's walls were also relatively thin, good for the upcoming modifications. The model also featured two nice driver's stations, which could be removed easily, too. Unfortunately; they had to go to make enough room for the electronics of the Märklin 3039 all-metal chassis.
Dry-fitting the chassis under the Class 1200 hull revealed that the stunt would basically work - the chassis turned out to be only marginally too wide. I just had to grind a little of the chassis' front edges away to reduce pressure on the styrene body, and I had to bend the end sections of the chassis’ stabilizing side walls.
To make the Class 1200 hull fit over the shorter BR 110 chassis a section of about 3 cm had to be taken out of the body’s middle section. The Class 1200 lent itself to this measure because the body is rather bare and uniform along its mid-section, so that re-combining two shortened halves should not pose too many problems.
To make the hull sit properly on the chassis I added styrene profiles inside of it - easy to glue them into place, thanks to the material. At this time, the original fixed pantographs and some wiring on the roof had gone, brake hoses on the nose were removed to make space for the BR 110 couplers, and the clear windows were removed after a little fight (they were glued into their places, but thankfully each side has three separate parts instead of just one that would easily break). PSR on the seam between the hull halves followed, plus some grey primer to check the surface quality.
Even though the new body now had a proper position on the metal chassis, a solution had to be found to securely hold it in place. My solution: an adapter for a screw in the chassis’ underside, scratched. I found a small area next to the central direction switch where I could place a screw and a respective receiver that could attached to the body’s roof. A 3 mm hole was drilled into the chassis’ floor and a long Spax screw with a small diameter was mated with a hollow square styrene profile, roughly trimmed down in length to almost reach the roof internally. Then a big lump of 2C putty was put into the hull, and the styrene adapter pressed into it, so that it would held well in place. Fiddly, but it worked!
Unfortunately, the pantographs of the Atlas/IXO model were static and not flexible at all. One was displayed raised while the other one was retracted. Due to the raised pantograph’s stiffness the model might lose contact to or even damage the model railroad catenary, even when not pulling power through it – not a satisfactory condition. Since the chassis could be powered either from below or through the pantographs (the Märklin 3039 chassis offers an analogue switch underneath to change between power sources) I decided to pimp my build further and improve looks and functionality. I organized a pair of aftermarket diamond pantographs, made from metal, fully functional and held in place on the model’s roof with (very short and) small screws from the inside.
I was not certain if the screws were conductive, and I had to somehow connect them with the switch in the chassis. I eventually soldered thin wire to the pantographs’ bases, led them through additional small holes in the roof inside and soldered them to the switch input, with an insulating screw joint in-between to allow a later detachment/disassembly without damage to the body. There might have been more elegant solutions, but my limited resources and skills did not allow more. It works, though, and I am happy with it, since the cables won’t be visible from the outside. This layout allows to draw power through them, I just had to create a flexible and detachable connection internally. Some plugs, wire and soldering created a solution – rough (electronics is not my strength!), but it worked! Another investment of money, time and effort into this project, but I think that the new pantographs significantly improve the overall look and the functionality of this model.
Internally, the missing light bulbs were retrofitted with OEM parts. A late external addition were PE brass ladders for the shunting platforms and under the doors for the driver’s cabins. They were rather delicate, but the model would not see much handling or railroading action, anyway, and the improve the overall impression IMHO a lot. On the roof, some details like cooling fans and tailored conduits (from the Atlas Series 1200) were added, they partly obscure the seam all around the body.
Unfortunately, due to the necessary space for the chassis, its motor and the electronics, the driver stations’ interiors could not be re-mounted – but this is not too obvious, despite the clear windows.
After my little accident involving a broken wrist joint out the gate, I restored some functionality to the figure and did a photoshoot. Still waiting for a response from Mondo, though I don't think it should be an issues getting things restored from their end.
So taking away the various Teela specific QC issues, what do we have? A pretty typical Mondo product - I like the overall sculpting job better than She Ran, which to be fair was their first female MOTU release. Definitely a much better shelf presence, and unlike She Ra, Teela actually attended Arm day. Of the three sculpts, the 200X is probably the best, though arguably speaking the only one that's not so great is the angry expression, which still works f you have the right conditions.
Great work out the outfit itself. It's no more or less complicated than She Ra, I'd say, but I think it's probably more accurate to say the complication is all focused on the chest and arms. It's unfortunate that it appears that Teela does, for pretty much all her incarnations she really does wear boots that stop short of the knee, which is unfortunate as a higher boot could have really blocked those knees from view.
Similarly, some beautiful sculpting work was applied to the accessories.
Articulation wise, well, it's not a Hot Toy True Type body. By American figure standards, it's not too bad. Butterfly joints would probably too much of an ask, so I'd settle for at least better than a simple 90 degree elbow bend - this isn't the 1980's anymore. Between the choice of materials and built in articulation, at least I was able to get Teela to sit in a chair.
Paint work is an area that I feel was improved over She Ra. Ever so slightly. For starters, I didn't have any issues with lip stick on the wrong side of her face. Everything sees to be in place, relatively clean work and all. Skin tone matching is still an issue, though. There's the body and the unpainted joints, which is tolerable if you don't stare too hard. But there's a disrepency between the faces and the body, and on the non 200X heads, the red around the eyes is too strong. But again, all things considered and the source, it's not too bad.
Build Quality wise... I'm not even going to start. Widely documented all around. I will just add that the heads are a pain in the ass to get back on the ball joint, and pretty much all her accessories are warped, with the exception of the Sword/Sheath and the Shield - I'll even give credit to the Snake staff, as it's warped by nature and I can't actually tell. The Snake helmet thing is warped to one side, and you see very easily that the Spear is warped.
Like a sunburst wall decor, this unfinished 'bobo' fish trap is impressive as it is. The material is from a local plant called bamban.
Bulusan, Sorsogon, Philippines
I love the idea of having art on the gates that come down when the the restaurant is closed. Rather than the ugly grey, possibly tagged with grafitti, we get this amazing art.
In 1928 Jan Duiker built this sanatorium near Hilversum, the Netherlands. It's a good exemple of the functional style of building in these days. Light, air and space are the keywords. See for example in Modern Architecture - Frampton (Thames and Hudson)
The model and its assembly:
My second attempt to create a functional H0 scale what-if locomotive – and after I “only” did a color variant with some cosmetic changes on the basis of a Märklin V160/BR 216 diesel locomotive, I wanted something more special and challenging. However, kitbashing model locomotives with a metal chassis that includes a functional motor, respective drivetrain/gearing and electronics is not as easy as gluing some plastic parts together. And finding “matching” donor parts for such a stunt is also not as easy as it may seem. But what would life be without attempts to widen its boundaries?
This time I wanted an electric locomotive. Inspiration (and occasion) somewhat struck when I stumbled upon a running/functional chassis of a Märklin E 10/BR 110 (#3039), just without light and naturally missing the whole upper hull. Due to its incompleteness, I got it for a reasonable price, though. With this basis I started to watch out for eventual (and affordable) donor parts for a new superstructure, and remembered the collectible, non-powered all-plastic locomotive models from Atlas/IXO.
The good thing about the Märklin 3039 chassis was that it was just a solid and flat piece of metal without integrated outer hull elements, headstock or side skirts, so that a new hull could (theoretically) be simply tailored to fit over this motorized platform. Finding something with the exact length would be impossible, so I settled upon an Atlas H0 scale Nederlands Spoorwegen Series 1200 locomotive model, which is markedly longer than the German BR 110, due to its six axles vs. the E 10/BR 110’s four. Another selling point: the NS 1200’s body is virtually blank in its middle section, ideal for shortening it to match the different chassis. Detail of the Atlas plastic models is also quite good, so there was the potential for something quite convincing.
Work started with the disassembly of the static Atlas NS Class 1200 model. It's all-styrene, just with a metal plate as a chassis. Against my expectations the model's hull was only held on the chassis by two tiny screws under the "noses", so that I did not have to use force to separate it. The body's walls were also relatively thin, good for the upcoming modifications. The model also featured two nice driver's stations, which could be removed easily, too. Unfortunately; they had to go to make enough room for the electronics of the Märklin 3039 all-metal chassis.
Dry-fitting the chassis under the Class 1200 hull revealed that the stunt would basically work - the chassis turned out to be only marginally too wide. I just had to grind a little of the chassis' front edges away to reduce pressure on the styrene body, and I had to bend the end sections of the chassis’ stabilizing side walls.
To make the Class 1200 hull fit over the shorter BR 110 chassis a section of about 3 cm had to be taken out of the body’s middle section. The Class 1200 lent itself to this measure because the body is rather bare and uniform along its mid-section, so that re-combining two shortened halves should not pose too many problems.
To make the hull sit properly on the chassis I added styrene profiles inside of it - easy to glue them into place, thanks to the material. At this time, the original fixed pantographs and some wiring on the roof had gone, brake hoses on the nose were removed to make space for the BR 110 couplers, and the clear windows were removed after a little fight (they were glued into their places, but thankfully each side has three separate parts instead of just one that would easily break). PSR on the seam between the hull halves followed, plus some grey primer to check the surface quality.
Even though the new body now had a proper position on the metal chassis, a solution had to be found to securely hold it in place. My solution: an adapter for a screw in the chassis’ underside, scratched. I found a small area next to the central direction switch where I could place a screw and a respective receiver that could attached to the body’s roof. A 3 mm hole was drilled into the chassis’ floor and a long Spax screw with a small diameter was mated with a hollow square styrene profile, roughly trimmed down in length to almost reach the roof internally. Then a big lump of 2C putty was put into the hull, and the styrene adapter pressed into it, so that it would held well in place. Fiddly, but it worked!
Unfortunately, the pantographs of the Atlas/IXO model were static and not flexible at all. One was displayed raised while the other one was retracted. Due to the raised pantograph’s stiffness the model might lose contact to or even damage the model railroad catenary, even when not pulling power through it – not a satisfactory condition. Since the chassis could be powered either from below or through the pantographs (the Märklin 3039 chassis offers an analogue switch underneath to change between power sources) I decided to pimp my build further and improve looks and functionality. I organized a pair of aftermarket diamond pantographs, made from metal, fully functional and held in place on the model’s roof with (very short and) small screws from the inside.
I was not certain if the screws were conductive, and I had to somehow connect them with the switch in the chassis. I eventually soldered thin wire to the pantographs’ bases, led them through additional small holes in the roof inside and soldered them to the switch input, with an insulating screw joint in-between to allow a later detachment/disassembly without damage to the body. There might have been more elegant solutions, but my limited resources and skills did not allow more. It works, though, and I am happy with it, since the cables won’t be visible from the outside. This layout allows to draw power through them, I just had to create a flexible and detachable connection internally. Some plugs, wire and soldering created a solution – rough (electronics is not my strength!), but it worked! Another investment of money, time and effort into this project, but I think that the new pantographs significantly improve the overall look and the functionality of this model.
Internally, the missing light bulbs were retrofitted with OEM parts. A late external addition were PE brass ladders for the shunting platforms and under the doors for the driver’s cabins. They were rather delicate, but the model would not see much handling or railroading action, anyway, and the improve the overall impression IMHO a lot. On the roof, some details like cooling fans and tailored conduits (from the Atlas Series 1200) were added, they partly obscure the seam all around the body.
Unfortunately, due to the necessary space for the chassis, its motor and the electronics, the driver stations’ interiors could not be re-mounted – but this is not too obvious, despite the clear windows.
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One of the coolest functional training spaces located at Nuffield Health in the Wellbeing Centre, London.
The building of Hessing is completely integrated in the noise barrier of the A2 between Utrecht and Amsterdam. Early on the Sunday morning I did not have to wait too long to get a clear shot across the highway, at home some photoshopping to take out the lampposts and roadsigns.
The FAC is a business card template that prints on 3x5 index cards in the color of your choice. The goal was to create a business card that is actually useful and functional, as opposed to the usual dead tree spam you usually get that just collect dust. This also makes use of all those index cards you bought for your hipster PDA and never used!
A Cars St Christophe Mercedes Benz Atego with rather functional looking bodywork in Ypres, 18th October, 2024.
needle roll made from felted scarf (blue) with felted cashmere sweater pages...part of the functional felt swap with accompanying pin cushion. Vintage glass buttons and trim.
blogged at overmilkwood.blogspot.com
Lover's MBT Shoe Sale Functionality Footwear from www.onlineairjordanmall.com just 127.99 USD for free shipping.The only walking shoes designed to promote gentle, active rolling instead of repeated compression. If you have ever had foot, knee, joint or back pains when you exercise, you owe it to your body to try MBT Swiss walking shoes.
Makes training more effective, challenging and gentle to your spine.
Biomechanical design strengthens the body and helps to improve the way you use your muscles and joints.
Patented curved layered sole improves posture.
Improve your circulation with every step.
In short, the effects of walking with MBT are both training and massage.
At MBT it is our philosophy to keep the body in motion. We believe motion is key to helping find and maintain the right balance in life. At MBT, we can help achieve this through our unique shoe design that combines a perfect balance of function with style. MBT (Masai Barefoot Technology) was born in 1996 when we discovered that natural instability can have positive effects on the human body. We made this discovery by observing the wonderfully agile Masai people walking barefoot on natural, uneven ground. Seeing these people in action made us realize that the human body is simply not designed to walk or stand on the hard, flat surfaces of modern society. So we set out to develop a new kind of footwear, one that would mimic walking on soft, uneven ground. The results have been dramatic and revolutionary. MBTs are now sold in more than 55 countries. MBT's patented Masai Sensor and Balancing Area creates instability that your body instinctively attempts to correct. This corrective action can help add more movement into everyday life, lead to increased muscle activation and help improve posture and balance.
When walking in MBTs, the ground no longer feels flat and stable, so the body has to compensate and create stability, so you'll always be able to do more for your body while standing and walking See it in www.onlineairjordanmall.com/lovers-mbt-tataga/123-lover-s...