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copied from this one by derevaun.
It works great! I put a piece of 120 backing paper through it. It loads into my 127 film reels just fine. The hardest part for me was figuring out which of 6 sizes of coupling nuts to use. I settled on 1/4"-20. Got the machine screws to match in 1/2" and 1-1/4" (those are the lengths) and 1/4" washers. The camera is a Peony tlr. The space across the opening is 2 inches. It's got a metal body, which I thought might make it stronger. It's important to put the exacto blade tip below the level of the camera door.
Note: after using this to cut film I notice it's a tiny bit narrower than the efke 127. I filed the upper nut down some, maybe 1/32 inch, but it wasn't enough to make any difference. The film fits fine in my camera (ferrania rondine) and plastic developing reels. Here and here are the first two photos from the slitter.
Another Note: The inside of the Peony tapers a bit - so the chamber is a little narrow. I'm going to try a Traveler 120 next - it has a metal body and is about 2 3/8 inches wide on the inside. The Eagle Eye 120 also has a metal film chamber. I'm also thinking I need to change the angle of the exacto blade - I notice derevaun's is more vertical. I cut 4 rolls of film, and seem to need a fresh blade already. My last roll came through okay, but it was hard to turn the knob. The paper tore near the end because it was piling up in front of the blade. The film came through okay though. I had to open the camera/slitter in a dark bag and transfer the film to the 127 reel immediately.
edit: I now use a film slitter from this place www.subclub.org/sponsors/goathil2.htm
I got mine on ebay. It works better for me.
This is one of those Oddball Films, Kodak Orthochromatic recommended speed ISO 3, and it also has a bright yellow base.
For this Photo I wanted some movement in the clouds but no it didn't happen.
Every time I went out with the camera it clouded over.
Exposure was calculated for sunny 16 rule so I started at 1/3 sec @ F5.6 used a ND Fader of 7 stops too get 30secs.
it seems the more this film is overexposed the more contrasty it becomes.
Film Kodak Orthochromatic.
Camera Nikon F50.
AF Nikkor 35-80mm
Filters ND Fader plus a Diffusion Filter.
Film is From Northern Film Lab.
Film | Medium Format 120
Contax 645 | 85mm f/2
Digital Scan with no editing
Ryan David Ahern | www.ahern.com.au/portfolio/
Copyright. All rights reserved. Image not to be used without permission.
FujiFilm Eterna film simulation
Film Simulation = Eterna
Sharpness = +2
Shadows = +4
Highlights = +4
Grain = Strong
Noise Reduction = -4
Dynamic Range = DR100
White Balance = Auto +5R, -6B
Color = +4
ISO Auto (6400)
Color Chrome Effect = Weak
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Rollei RPX 100, 120
Kodak Ektar 100, 135-36
Cinestill XPro C-41 ISO 50, 135-36
Color Implosion ISO 100, 135-36
SOOC
35mm kodak film.
i finally got it developed this film has been stuck in my room since December.. Anyways, most of the pictures where moved, because it's my first time working with analogic photography but i have to say it's amazing.... I mean the feeling of not knowing what will you're photos turn out like.
So yeah i really enjoyed this film :)
Cheap film, but we'll see what comes of it since its expired and will be thrown into some toy camera.
Graflex Century Graphic
Fujinon W 135mm f5.6
B+W Close-up +4 (NL4)
1/60 @ f5.6/8
ProS 6x7 120 Roll film back
Ilford HP5+ @ 200
Developed in Caffenol-C-L semi-stand
Epson V500
Photoshop CS
Camera: Chamonix 8x10; Lens: Fujinon 240mm f/9; Film: Fuji Provia 100F. Exposure: f/16, 1/30". Time & Date: 15:25, Febuary 15, 2010.