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Probably the question that I get asked more than any other is about my photography workflow. I actually feel like my photography workflow is pretty simple so I thought I'd write up a brief post documenting my process all the way from photo capture to photo publishing. Feel free to ask any questions if you need me to elaborate on things.
1. Step one, capture the image: I carry my Canon 5D and 5 lenses (24mm, 14mm, 50mm, 135mm, 100mm macro) with me in a backpack every where I go. I take advantage of the routine time wasted in a day to turn that time into photography. Walking to and from the BART train. Going out for lunch. Waiting in line somewhere. All kinds of everyday moments become photographic opportunities.
Of course I also go out on specific photowalks all the time. Sometimes these are weekend trips away from home, other times they are just evenings out shooting with friends or with my wife. I use 2 8GB SanDisk cards.
To learn more about what is in my camera bag you can read this post here.
2. Step two, transfer the image to the computer: Here I use a high speed USB card reader. All card readers are not created equal. Spend the extra few bucks and get a high speed reader. Every day or other day I use my card reader to offload images on my camera card to my computer. In my case when I plug in my card reader Canon's "Camera Window" software automatically loads. This software then pulls all of my images off of my CF card and puts them into folders on my computer titled by date taken. After my images are transferred to my MacBook Pro I then put the card back in the camera and delete the images off of it. If I'm on an all day shoot I'll take breaks during my day (coffee, lunnch, etc.) to take a moment and clear out my cards.
Bonus Link: 13 Tips for Using and Caring for Memory Cards.
3. Step three, sort photos: Here I open the folder that has all of the RAW files from a given day's images using Adobe's Bridge software. I create a subfolder in the dated folder called "maybe." I go through the day's photographs and I drag anything that I think might have potential into the "maybe" folder.
4. Step four, first pass processing using Adobe Camera RAW: My next step is to open all images in a day's maybe folder using Adobe Camera RAW (comes with both Photoshop CS3 and Lightroom). You simply select all of the images in your maybe folder, right click, and select "Open in Camera RAW." This is where 95% of my photo processing is done.
With camera RAW you can adjust the contrast of a photo, the exposure of a photo, the saturation of a photo. You can adjust the temperature of a photo (the reason why some white lights are sulfur yellow and other white lights are soft blue), you can adjust the vignette (black or white edges around a photo), fill lighting, etc. Adobe Camera RAW uses sliders to make these adjustments and it is easy as pie.
After I get an individual image to where I want it I will use the "Save" button in camera RAW to save that finished photo as a JPG in a new folder "Finished Images."
After I process my first pass imagery I move that date's archive folder off my Mac and onto my drobo to back it up and store it more safely. Note, none of my RAW files are ever saved as processed. I consider my RAW files my negatives and always want to be able to go back to them and process from scratch if need be.
5. Step five, 2nd pass processing: Once I've finished my first pass processing I will point Bridge to the "finished images" folder. Here I will look at each finished JPG image in as large a format as possible looking for photos that need additional work. Typically less than 10% of my photos need additional work beyond camera RAW.
The type of work here is all done in Photoshop. As I go through the images I look for a few things consistently. Images that need slight sharpening. Images that have dust spots on them that need to be fixed with the cloning tool in Photoshop. Images that could benefit from dodging or burning, etc. As I see an image in Bridge that needs additional fine tuning I will double click on the image in Photoshop, make my edits, save the file and close it.
6. Step six, keywording: My next step is to keyword all of my photos using Adobe Bridge. Adobe Bridge has pretty powerful keywording capabilities. I can batch and bulk keyword photos. I might start out, for instance, keywording every single photo I just processed as "Las Vegas" "DMU Las Vegas Meetup 2008" "Vegas". From there I then might go through sub batches and keyword them (say Caeser's or Wynn or Venetian). From there I might then bulk keyword certain frequently used attributes (neon, mannequin, graffiti, night, etc.). And then I go through each image individually adding any final keywords image by image.
Keywording is important because these keywords will be automatically read as tags by sites like Flickr and Zooomr. It also allows you better to search your finished imagery in the future on your computer. The Importance of Keywording Your Photos.
7. Step seven, geotagging: Here I use a free program called Geotagger. Geotagger works with Google Earth and allows you to pinpoint a spot on the planet using Google Earth and then drag and drop any images from that location onto the program and geotags them with that coordinate. Geotagger only works for the Mac but there are lots of other free geotagging programs like Geotagger out there that work with Windows. When you geotag your photos at the file level both Flickr and Zooomr automatically add them to the meta data on your photo and place them on their site maps.
8. Step eight, sort finished photos into A or B to be uploaded folders: My next step is to go through my imagery and basically sort 80/20. What I feel are my strongest 20% go into a folder "B." The rest go into a folder "C."
9. Step nine, publish: I publish twice a day usually but this is by no means a hard and fast rule. Once in the morning and once in the evening. I typically publish 10-15 photos at a time selected mostly at random from my growing pool of "to be uploadeds."
I make sure that when I upload these 10 or 15 shots in a batch that the "B" shots are uploaded last as Flickr and Zooomr only highlight the last 5 shots that you upload in an upload batch. I want these to be what I feel are my better images.
And that's it. I'm sure that there are more efficient ways that I could be processing my imagery but this has worked for me for a while now. Feel free to ask any questions as the above might sound a bit complicated to some.
Additional reading: Thomas Hawk's Principles and Guidelines for the Modern Photowalker . Brian Auer's Your Guide to Adobe Bridge: Useful Tips and Tricks.
More comments and a conversation about this post over at FriendFeed.
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© All Rights Reserved - Jim Goodyear 2018.
Here is a little behind-the-scenes of my creative process. With every one of my designs I try to flush things out early on with quick sketches and color studies before diving into generating the assets.
This is an example of my Signalera piece, where I started with a very quick sketch of composition, then a study in Illustrator, and the final piece.
You can see a larger version right here.
©2008 James White. All rights reserved.
My 'RAW 101' Workflow Video Tutorial is now available for Pre-Order!
Early adopters save 20%.
www.fototripper.com/product/raw-processing-workflow-for-l...
Do you get intimidated or overwhelmed by complicated image editing software? Relax. I’m here to walk you through the process step-by-step. By the time you’ve watched this series of video tutorials you’ll be processing your images with confidence.
Unglaublich wie schnell die Kreuzspinne ihr Netz baute, ich bin sehr froh das mir diese Aufnahme gelungen ist.
Unbelievable how quickly the cross spider built her net. I am very glad that this picture has succeeded me.
Edited this one in CS6 with nothing more than a pass of noise cancelation, slight curves adjustment, and sharpening on only the red and green channel.
First, Happy Thanksgiving To Everyone. Second DO NO TRY THIS AT HOME.
The following is how I edit my photos from my camera to Flickr.
1. Take an insane amount of photos of everything that you see in burst mode. I shoot everything in raw and large jpeg. I usually take a burst of 3 photos for every subject. For something like a marathon, my trip to San Francisco, or my day at the Lone Star Rally that would translate to 5000 photos. I took close to 30,000 photos in Japan. If we hadn't had 2 typhoons move through while I was there it would have been closer to 50,000. If you have quit laughing now please read on.
2. I transfer the 64 gb sd cards to my Windows 7 desktop. I usually do this one card at a time since I never have more than a 100 gb of storage left.
3. After uploading a sd card I go though and delete each out of focus shot or anything that just looks really off. Hopefully I cleared up enough room to upload another card. If not I try to see what I can part with and delete that. Eventually I will get everything into my Windows photo editor. The editor only sees jpegs and I have to move the cards over to my Mabook Pro in order to see the raw files.
4. The next step is to pick the best photo out of each burst. Sometimes the tired X-T1 misses every shot in a burst but really that is mostly my fault.
5. Go through the best shots and decide what to actually keep and edit in Lightroom. I try to remember that Lightroom can work wonders on some photos. Hopefully, I culled heavily but that is another problem that I am working on.
6. Rename all of the keeper photos so that I can find them in Lightroom. I am sure that there is an easy way to do this. This actually takes a really long time for me.
7. Transfer all of the photos to be edited onto another sd card.
8. Finally, turn on the Macbook Pro and import all of the photos into Lightroom.
9. Apply some sort of edit to the first photo and hopefully that can be applied to most of the photos in the upload.
10. Go back over every photo and make any minor adjustments that are necessary.
11. Go back over the photos one last time and cull any if necessary.
12. Finally, they can be uploaded to Flickr.
And that is how not to do it. (I actually really, really do it this way. It is possible that I even left a step or two out.)
Discover My New Portrait Editing Workflow!
In this series, I’m sharing the before and after of my portraits to show how my editing process has evolved.
The RAW photo: I always start with a clean, well-lit image to have a solid base.
Editing with Evoto AI: Then I use Evoto to refine the skin naturally and efficiently, preserving texture and authenticity.
Final touches in Photoshop: Finally, I make color adjustments and fine-tune the look for a harmonious result.
If you’d like to learn more about my experience with Evoto, you can read the full article on my blog.
I hope this inspires you and gives you new ideas for your own portrait retouching!
blog.stephanemosse.com/2025/10/27/evoto-ai-comment-jai-di...
Le Suquet is the old quarter of Cannes, probably best known to tourists as the climbing, winding cobbled lane lined with local restaurants, Rue St Antoine. Le Suquet contains a clock tower and church that sit high facing east overlooking the Bay of Cannes and Cannes itself. At the bottom of Le Suquet on Rue Dr. P. Gazagnaire is the Marché Forville, where the market is held in the mornings and early afternoon.
This area is the original fishermans' residential area of Cannes. The houses are all very old. The streets were laid out at least 400 years ago. It is a 5-minute walk from the beach and is full of restaurants around the Rue Saint Antoine and the Rue du Suquet. A lot of the area is pedestrianised and is a major tourist attraction for visitors to Cannes.
The rue du Suquet is the original main road into Cannes. It came in below the walls of the castle (for defence reasons). It is a pedestrian street again and has plenty of restaurants [Wikipedia.org]
Located in the heart of the glamorous city of Cannes —close to the Palais du Festival and famous Croisette walk— the Vieux Port de Cannes has been a long time favourite port of call for boats of all sizes. A wooden quay in front of the Capitainerie can accommodate yachts up to 40m there (50m upon request)
[yachtinsidersguide.com]
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Digital blending or DRI or Exposure blending.
NO HDR.
First day of work after nice and sweet holidays.
I'm back in urban flux, trafic, polution and stress.
Work= End of contemplation. End of liberty.
This photo shows how we miss the beauty of the world and nature when we work as robots.
Drivers in foreground drive so fast they can't see beautiful landscapes in background.
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I once again delved into the early days of my transition form film-based to digital photography and found some images from Caribana in 2006. This is an annual Caribbean festival held in Toronto, Ontario in early August. For colour, and music, it is pretty hard to beat. I really doubt you can take bad photos there. Feathers, sequins, elaborate costumes in a parade lasting some 2 hours at any viewing spot. This was taken using a Panasonic Lumix DMC-FZ30 super-zoom camera sporting 8 megapixels of image data, which was pretty good for the time. But GAS (gear acquisition syndrome) has intervened over the years since this was my main camera. So, once in a while I revisit old images and subject them to my current workflow to see how they hold up. No RAW available because I did not use it back then. It worked out surprisingly well. - JW
Date Taken: 2006-08-05
Tech Details:
Taken using a hand-held Panasonic Lumix DMC-FZ300 camera, Auto WB, ISO80, focal length: 62.2mm, Program mode, f/6.3, 1/500 sec. PP in free Open Source RAWTherapee from Lumix JPEG source file: set final image size to 6000px wide, crop a bit off the left while preserving the original aspect ratio to get rid of some bright detail along the left side of the frame, very slightly darken the exposure by EV-0.08, very slightly boost Chromaticity in L-A-B mode, use the Shadows/Highlights tool to recover highlight detail, set the white balance by taking a sample off the while portions of the dancer’s cap, apply a bit of noise reduction, sharpen, edges only, save. PP in free Open Source GIMP: use the levels tool in Auto mode to set a good base tonality and colour balance, slightly adjust the colour balance by removing a bit of green cast, sharpen, save, add fine black-and-white frame, add bar and text on left, save, scale image to 2048px wide for posting online, sharpen slightly, save.