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ODC Theme: Work
Even though currently I don't make my main income from photography I hope someday I will.
1. Enderezado de la imagen, he tomado como referencia los pilares de la casa, su linea vertical
2. Correccion perfil de lente, aberracion cromatica y correccion de perspectiva automatica
3 Equilibrio de blancos temperatura 5900 matiz +6
4. Ajustes basicos
Exposicion -0.65
Contraste +24
Iluminaciones -100
Sombras +79
Blancos +63
Negros -6
Claridad +30
Intensidad +18
Saturacion +8
HSL TONO
Rojo +13
Naranjas -26
Amarillos +29
Verdes +12
Aguamarinas +13
Azules +28
Purpuras +8
HSL SATURACION
Rojo +4
Naranjas +17
Amarillos +8
Verdes -4
Aguamarinas -26
Azules +52
HSL LUMINANCIA
Rojo +14
Naranjas -32
Amarillos -13
Verdes -33
Aguamarinas -54
Azules -59
Purpuras -38
CURVAS
Parametrico
Iluminaciones -6
Claros +9
Oscuros -6
Sombras +8
Punto Rojo
He levantado muy levemente los tonos medios a rojo
Verde
Las iluminaciones las he bajado muy levemente a magenta y las sombras muy levemente hacia verde
Azul
Las iluminaciones he bajado bastante a amarillo, los tonos medios lo he bajado a amarillo levemente al igual que sombras.
RGB
Solo he dado mas luz pero muy levemente a las sombras
Filtro radial para cielo
temperatura -6
Exposicion -0.25
Contraste 25
Iluminaciones -35
Sombras +32
Blancos +7
Negros +1
Claridad +31
Saturacion 14
Filtro radias para tierra
Temperatura +2
Matiz -3
Exposicion +0.1
Contraste +26
Iluminaciones -65
Sombras +57
Blancos +22
Negros +6
Claridad 15
Saturacion +14
ENFOQUE
Cantidad 62
Radio 0.8
Detalle 32
Mascara 43
workflow: Nikon D600, RawVision, PixlrExpress, Snapseed on an SamsungTab3 (For Tryout in HDR Mode with Snapseed)
Millbrook, Ontario
Original capture digital, neg made on OHP. Platinum-palladium print on Rives BFK using my usual workflow.
I changed up my workflow this weekend. I am scanning to DNG with the V600 and converting my negatives with Negative Lab Pro. I'm not 100% with the colors but liking the overall increase in clarity. I always feel the V600 is slightly out of focus.
Baltimore, 2026.
Pentax 17
Fuji Color 200
This full, free video tutorial is now available for you to download and watch! It shows how to create this image, from beginning to end, and it includes the raw files and my luminance mask action set!
- I have a small request -
If you've enjoyed my materials and found them useful, please can you share the link below to others who you think will also enjoy them.
By doing so you will be helping to support this resource and helping it to grow. The more interest/demand I have in these workflows the more of them I can make.
Thank you and I hope enjoy this new video
www.throughstrangelenses.com/2013/09/08/full-free-post-pr...
Workshop "workflow/Photoshop/Lightroom"
Vrijdag 21 september
10:00-13:00
50.00
Nog 2 plekken vrij voor deze zeer informatieve workshop aanstaande vrijdag.
Veel tips en technieken voor een snelle en professionele retouch workflow.
Werken met kleurkanalen, unieke tints zelf maken, foto's van zero naar hero brengen in Photoshop, werken met focus verloop, achtergronden smooth maken, huid en digitale make-up, kleur manipulatie, automatiseren van retouching processing binnen Photoshop, hyperverscherping, beste plugins en veel meer
Zie het gehele programma op www.fotografie-workshops.nl
Inschrijven via info at Frankdoorhof punt com
Probably the question that I get asked more than any other is about my photography workflow. I actually feel like my photography workflow is pretty simple so I thought I'd write up a brief post documenting my process all the way from photo capture to photo publishing. Feel free to ask any questions if you need me to elaborate on things.
1. Step one, capture the image: I carry my Canon 5D and 5 lenses (24mm, 14mm, 50mm, 135mm, 100mm macro) with me in a backpack every where I go. I take advantage of the routine time wasted in a day to turn that time into photography. Walking to and from the BART train. Going out for lunch. Waiting in line somewhere. All kinds of everyday moments become photographic opportunities.
Of course I also go out on specific photowalks all the time. Sometimes these are weekend trips away from home, other times they are just evenings out shooting with friends or with my wife. I use 2 8GB SanDisk cards.
To learn more about what is in my camera bag you can read this post here.
2. Step two, transfer the image to the computer: Here I use a high speed USB card reader. All card readers are not created equal. Spend the extra few bucks and get a high speed reader. Every day or other day I use my card reader to offload images on my camera card to my computer. In my case when I plug in my card reader Canon's "Camera Window" software automatically loads. This software then pulls all of my images off of my CF card and puts them into folders on my computer titled by date taken. After my images are transferred to my MacBook Pro I then put the card back in the camera and delete the images off of it. If I'm on an all day shoot I'll take breaks during my day (coffee, lunnch, etc.) to take a moment and clear out my cards.
Bonus Link: 13 Tips for Using and Caring for Memory Cards.
3. Step three, sort photos: Here I open the folder that has all of the RAW files from a given day's images using Adobe's Bridge software. I create a subfolder in the dated folder called "maybe." I go through the day's photographs and I drag anything that I think might have potential into the "maybe" folder.
4. Step four, first pass processing using Adobe Camera RAW: My next step is to open all images in a day's maybe folder using Adobe Camera RAW (comes with both Photoshop CS3 and Lightroom). You simply select all of the images in your maybe folder, right click, and select "Open in Camera RAW." This is where 95% of my photo processing is done.
With camera RAW you can adjust the contrast of a photo, the exposure of a photo, the saturation of a photo. You can adjust the temperature of a photo (the reason why some white lights are sulfur yellow and other white lights are soft blue), you can adjust the vignette (black or white edges around a photo), fill lighting, etc. Adobe Camera RAW uses sliders to make these adjustments and it is easy as pie.
After I get an individual image to where I want it I will use the "Save" button in camera RAW to save that finished photo as a JPG in a new folder "Finished Images."
After I process my first pass imagery I move that date's archive folder off my Mac and onto my drobo to back it up and store it more safely. Note, none of my RAW files are ever saved as processed. I consider my RAW files my negatives and always want to be able to go back to them and process from scratch if need be.
5. Step five, 2nd pass processing: Once I've finished my first pass processing I will point Bridge to the "finished images" folder. Here I will look at each finished JPG image in as large a format as possible looking for photos that need additional work. Typically less than 10% of my photos need additional work beyond camera RAW.
The type of work here is all done in Photoshop. As I go through the images I look for a few things consistently. Images that need slight sharpening. Images that have dust spots on them that need to be fixed with the cloning tool in Photoshop. Images that could benefit from dodging or burning, etc. As I see an image in Bridge that needs additional fine tuning I will double click on the image in Photoshop, make my edits, save the file and close it.
6. Step six, keywording: My next step is to keyword all of my photos using Adobe Bridge. Adobe Bridge has pretty powerful keywording capabilities. I can batch and bulk keyword photos. I might start out, for instance, keywording every single photo I just processed as "Las Vegas" "DMU Las Vegas Meetup 2008" "Vegas". From there I then might go through sub batches and keyword them (say Caeser's or Wynn or Venetian). From there I might then bulk keyword certain frequently used attributes (neon, mannequin, graffiti, night, etc.). And then I go through each image individually adding any final keywords image by image.
Keywording is important because these keywords will be automatically read as tags by sites like Flickr and Zooomr. It also allows you better to search your finished imagery in the future on your computer. The Importance of Keywording Your Photos.
7. Step seven, geotagging: Here I use a free program called Geotagger. Geotagger works with Google Earth and allows you to pinpoint a spot on the planet using Google Earth and then drag and drop any images from that location onto the program and geotags them with that coordinate. Geotagger only works for the Mac but there are lots of other free geotagging programs like Geotagger out there that work with Windows. When you geotag your photos at the file level both Flickr and Zooomr automatically add them to the meta data on your photo and place them on their site maps.
8. Step eight, sort finished photos into A or B to be uploaded folders: My next step is to go through my imagery and basically sort 80/20. What I feel are my strongest 20% go into a folder "B." The rest go into a folder "C."
9. Step nine, publish: I publish twice a day usually but this is by no means a hard and fast rule. Once in the morning and once in the evening. I typically publish 10-15 photos at a time selected mostly at random from my growing pool of "to be uploadeds."
I make sure that when I upload these 10 or 15 shots in a batch that the "B" shots are uploaded last as Flickr and Zooomr only highlight the last 5 shots that you upload in an upload batch. I want these to be what I feel are my better images.
And that's it. I'm sure that there are more efficient ways that I could be processing my imagery but this has worked for me for a while now. Feel free to ask any questions as the above might sound a bit complicated to some.
Additional reading: Thomas Hawk's Principles and Guidelines for the Modern Photowalker . Brian Auer's Your Guide to Adobe Bridge: Useful Tips and Tricks.
More comments and a conversation about this post over at FriendFeed.
I’m often asked how I create my AI photography images—especially by those using the same tools but getting very different results. Here’s a brief tutorial outlining my process for crafting refined AI visuals:
1.Start with a Line Sketch
Create a clean line drawing of your subject. Scan it at a minimum of 300 dpi for optimal clarity—this resolution consistently yields the best results.
2.Recover with AI Photo Tool
Use an AI photo recovery tool to transform your sketch into a base image. I typically select the “Severe” setting to maximize structural fidelity.
3.Enhance with AI Image Tool
Apply an AI image enhancement tool to refine detail. I prefer Version 2 with a 6-pass setting and the “Photography” filter for depth and realism.
4.Retouch for Precision
Use a photography retouch tool to eliminate blemishes, wrinkles, extra fingers, or other AI-generated artifacts. Zoom in closely to catch subtle errors. The lasso tool offers excellent control once mastered.
5.Smooth with Light Enhancement
Apply a light-setting enhancement to correct any smearing from the retouch phase. This step improves lighting, restores clarity, and sharpens the final image.
6.Finalize with Branding
Add your watermark or company symbol to complete the piece and protect your creative identity.
Here is a little behind-the-scenes of my creative process. With every one of my designs I try to flush things out early on with quick sketches and color studies before diving into generating the assets.
This is an example of my Signalera piece, where I started with a very quick sketch of composition, then a study in Illustrator, and the final piece.
You can see a larger version right here.
©2008 James White. All rights reserved.
Unglaublich wie schnell die Kreuzspinne ihr Netz baute, ich bin sehr froh das mir diese Aufnahme gelungen ist.
Unbelievable how quickly the cross spider built her net. I am very glad that this picture has succeeded me.
My 'RAW 101' Workflow Video Tutorial is now available for Pre-Order!
Early adopters save 20%.
www.fototripper.com/product/raw-processing-workflow-for-l...
Do you get intimidated or overwhelmed by complicated image editing software? Relax. I’m here to walk you through the process step-by-step. By the time you’ve watched this series of video tutorials you’ll be processing your images with confidence.
Processing:
Lightroom:
Bumped the exposure up .86
Pushed the yellow up in the WB
Upped black clipping from 5 - 7
Adjustment brushed exposure +.4 in the eyes and left sides of both faces
Upped Vibrance 19
Tone Curve = strong
Sharpened some
Highlight recovery +21
Photoshop:
Totally Rad Actions (TRA) Boutwell Magic Glasses 100% masking faces
TRA Big Blue - painted over the background at about 40% (big saturation push there)
TRA Pro Retouch on the faces at about 60%
TRA Yin/Yang to lighten the eyes on both subjects and the side of his face