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Taken with Fujifilm XE-1, Fuji XF 18-55, 2.8 @ f4, ISO 640. Five exposures at one stop increments, RAW format. Editing: Lightroom 5.6; workflow and final, Photomatix Pro 5; fusing the 5 images, NIK Collection; dynamic range, highlights and shadows, Gimp 2.8; logo. The color is right from the camera. I was really impressed with the depth at f4. With the XE-1 the exposure comp dial is right on top and easy to flip through, but you need a stable tripod to get the crisp detail. I used a Horusbennu tripod I bought from ebay ($109 with shipping). It is carbon fiber and the model I bought weighs less than 2 lbs, is rock solid and great for backpacking. I also use a Hrousbennu ball head, the combo weighs in at about 2 ½ lbs. I spotted the little red leafed dogwood tree walking to work. It was surrounded by redwood, incense and ponderosa pines and ferns. It was taken early morning, just after the sun was breaking over the mountains. You can see a light mist rising in the far background; from the morning dew.
•The truth about Yosemite: www.nbcbayarea.com/news/local/Sexual-Harassment-Common-in...
Now that I drew you in with the processing info, I’d like to share another life’s lesson.
Historically journalist, artists and musicians lead the way in Social Reform. Sadly the only change most Americans are willing to make; is that of their TV station, or the position of their cellphone when taking a selfie. I use photography directly with conversation exposing the atrocities Targeted Individuals (TIs) endure on a daily basis; from Gang Stalking, Community Based Stalking and Workplace Mobbing. Perpetrators will use tactics that systematically, psychologically destroy the TIs life; as if death by a thousand cuts. Many of these tactics taken directly from military psych ops; extreme repetitive noise campaigns, gaslighting, stalking, harassment and sleep deprivation. Most of the perpetrators are playing a tiny role, unknowing the detrimental psychological and physical impact on their Target, the Targets family and livelihood. This is done every day, all day and night. Targets eventually sharing a type of PTSD and with ubiquitous surveillance their lives turned into a performance; which is recorded, stored and then can be manipulated, viewed and infinitely replayed, all while discrediting the Target. The Target is left isolated from friends, coworkers and family.
In today’s government and corporate reign; I’m addressing these problems in ways the news media and legislators wont. Month after month surveillance tactics by our government are being exposed; phones, computers, cameras, internet, snail mail and planes are being used. What isn’t being exposed through news media is; this is also being carried out by your neighbors, your coworkers, those pretending to be your friend. Groups, neighborhoods, communities and coworkers are fed derogatory, defaming lies, innuendoes about an individual (Target) in their community. Those easily influenced and morally inept are then rallied by self-anointed sociopaths; to destroy the individual’s’ life, rid their precious community of said individual (Target). Yosemite National Park is such a community; Law Enforcement, its Superintendent is fully aware of it and allows it, as do most communities in the United States. This is our government at its best; they have an opportunity to stop Gang Stalking and Workplace Mobbing on government soil, but chose to allow it and place blame on the victim.
For posting this there will be retaliation; the morally inept will be rallied and called upon to harass, stalk, push my buttons and try their best to get me to act out of character. This is a risk many of us will take; we love our country, we are patriots and will not be intimidated by the morally corrupt. Without exposure and dialog there will be no change. Help us expose and stop Gang Stalking, Community Based Stalking and Workplace Mobbing.
If you would like to hear them, put on a good pair of headphones and listen flic.kr/p/2hJ7Rye
Thank you for taking the time to visit my photostream.
Workflow & Credits
Track created on the Suno website.
Image generated with AI.
Concept and lyrics developed from my original idea, brainstormed and refined with ChatGPT.
This project was created with full AI assistance — openly, deliberately, and as part of the creative process.
Verse 1
The horizon split in iron light
The sea stood tall, the sky burned white
They begged my hand to turn the wheel
But pride was all I chose to feel
The compass shook, the mast-line cried
The ocean warned — I would not hide
No mortal wind would master me
I swore command upon the sea
Pre-Chorus
I heard the thunder call my name
I knew the cost — I stayed the same
Chorus
I saw the storm and chose it still
I would not bend, I would not kneel
Let heaven break and oceans roar
I am the vow I swore before
No harbor light, no guiding flame
Only the echo of my name
If fate would carve its mark on me
Then let it carve eternally
Verse 2
The sails were torn by unseen hands
The tide withdrew from mortal lands
No stars remained to mark the night
Yet still I steered into their sight
The crew fell silent, one by one
As if the dark had just begun
No prayer survived the salted air
No mercy lingered anywhere
Pre-Chorus
The sea did not need rage or cry
It answered me by standing high
Chorus
I saw the storm and chose it still
I would not bend, I would not kneel
Let heaven break and oceans roar
I am the vow I swore before
No harbor light, no guiding flame
Only the echo of my name
If fate would carve its mark on me
Then let it carve eternally
Bridge (piano + low strings)
There was a moment — brief and small
Where I could have turned at all
A single breath
A single choice
But silence drowned the softer voice
Final Chorus (reduced, darker)
I saw the storm and chose it still
Now time stands frozen at my will
No dawn will rise, no night will cease
Only this endless, salted sea
No cross to bear, no grave to find
Only the wind that binds my mind
If I defied what none command
Then I alone shall ever stand
Final Verse (quiet, ominous)
And still I sail where maps grow thin
Beyond the edge of what has been
No port will claim me, none can warn
Of oath and tide and pride forsworn
If ever through the mist you see
A tattered sail on silver sea
Turn your helm and mark this chart —
Pray you never cross my dark
For I am bound to wind and foam
Exile my crown, the sea my throne
I chose the storm — it chose me then
And still I sail… beyond all men.
Visit my website at akikorhonen.org for more projects, thanks!
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My DIY ringflash that I've been doing for the last few days.
(Photo, starting from top left) Description
(1) I started with a 24 cm diameter steel bown and a normal food can.
(2) Added some tape on the bowl and drew the cutting lines with the can as a guide.
(3) Bottom from the bowl and can removed. I also shortened the cat a little bit. I first drilled a hole on the bottom of the bowl and then cut the metal with metal cutters.
(4) The two parts connected with strong epoxy that was meant for metals.
(5) Hole for the flash made and few connecting holes drilled. Also the needed aluminum parts are cut and bent in shape.
(6) The bottom part covered with black hockey tape. In the photo it has a Manfrotto quick attachment plate on it. Also has a hole for attaching it to the tripod mount of the camera.
(7) The top part where the flash is attached. Made some holes for the DIY TTL flash cord.
(8) I added some plastic parts for the flash hole to make it look nicer and to prevent light from escaping too much. Next I added some putty to finish it (wasn't necessary but I got too carried away again with the building).
(9) Putty and the bowl fully sanded and waiting for some gray primer and matte black finish.
(10) Painted and finished. Added some black hockey tape on the can's edge to prevent it from scratching the camera.
(11) Close up of the flash hole. A little bit of aluminum foil tape on the inside and black hockey tape on the edge.
(12) White thin fabric streched and being glued on the edges to get some diffusion to the light. There is a rubber band holding the fabric to the can.
See the finished righflash:
* DIY ringflash finished, without camera
* DIY ringflash finished, with camera
Cost: bowl 3€, can 0€, aluminum 1€ + some extra costs from paints etc. but I'm not going to count them to the total. Cheap anyway.
20090114: Added to favorites 100 times.
Part of the set bilderordner album: "res noscenda note notiz sketch skizze material sammlung collection entwurf entwurfarbeit überlegung gedanke brainstorming musterbogen schnittmuster zwischenbilanz bestandsaufnahme rückschau vorschau" 365-days project 2: construction weaving loom, mounting mirror background, bau Webstuhl. Montage Spiegel Hintergrund, Unterlegung // Nonsense Analogie schuh werkstatt weben haus bauen torte backen auflauf kochen // Szenen ohne Ehe, selbst ist die Frau
used photos:
DMC-GH3 - P1100035 - 2015-11-09
DMC-GH3 - P1100036 - 2015-11-09
DMC-GH3 - P1100041 - 2015-11-09
DMC-GH3 - P1100044 - 2015-11-09 #variation #draughtsman #problem #leiermann #leier #improvisation #raster #handwerk #chrysalis #chrysalides #chrysalises #haushalt #analogie #haus #bauen #baustelle #hausbauen #weben #leere #lehre #sinnlos #falsch #widerlegen #beweis #beweisführung #gegenbeweis #inhalt #erklärung #erläuterug #loom #webstuhl #bau #construction #öffentlich #rede #einblick #anblick #ausblick #weiß #white #bunt #work #arbeit #profession #beruf #handwerk #theater #diagramm #schaubild #linie #line #linear #trash #müll #mist #abfall #recycling #upcycling #idee #konzept #überlegung #gedanke #napkin #serviette #unterlegung #herbstlicht #herbst #autumn #licht #light #sonnig #sunny #sun #sonne #schatten #shadow #arbeitslicht #gold #silber #private #privat #privateness #metapher #symbol #lampion #green #grün #bilderzyklus #tapestry #tapisserie #tapis #wandteppich #küche #kitchen #bildwirkerei #bildteppich #textilkunst #carpet #teppich #rug #schatten #shadow #szene #scene #review #preview #kaleidoskop #kaleidoscope #heute #neu #neuer #neuest #beobachtung #view #blick
Today working on blur and camera raw touches.
Next week a full stream dedicated to hair to wrap up the series
Video available as well as previous workflow videos
► I have created a free eBook for you called HDR Top Tips.
This eBook contains 10 handy tips for your HDR work (plus a bonus tip). The range of tips covers the entire HDR workflow starting with shooting your source photos, via the preparation and the merging of the images, all the way to the tone-mapping and post-processing phase.
So... I'm trying out DXO's PureRAW and I took one of my "depth finding" shots of the Levy Semaphores. These are throwaway shots used to judge what the shot will look like in a short amount of time... By cranking up the ISO to some ungodly number... in this case, 51200. Completely useless for sharing, but great for telling me in the field what's my image going to look like.
Thanks to DXO's Pure Raw 4, The middle image came out into the world. Further processing in Lightroom classic and Nik ColorEffex results in the lower one... One that's, well, actually usable.
More probally to come now.
ODC Theme: Work
Even though currently I don't make my main income from photography I hope someday I will.
1. Enderezado de la imagen, he tomado como referencia los pilares de la casa, su linea vertical
2. Correccion perfil de lente, aberracion cromatica y correccion de perspectiva automatica
3 Equilibrio de blancos temperatura 5900 matiz +6
4. Ajustes basicos
Exposicion -0.65
Contraste +24
Iluminaciones -100
Sombras +79
Blancos +63
Negros -6
Claridad +30
Intensidad +18
Saturacion +8
HSL TONO
Rojo +13
Naranjas -26
Amarillos +29
Verdes +12
Aguamarinas +13
Azules +28
Purpuras +8
HSL SATURACION
Rojo +4
Naranjas +17
Amarillos +8
Verdes -4
Aguamarinas -26
Azules +52
HSL LUMINANCIA
Rojo +14
Naranjas -32
Amarillos -13
Verdes -33
Aguamarinas -54
Azules -59
Purpuras -38
CURVAS
Parametrico
Iluminaciones -6
Claros +9
Oscuros -6
Sombras +8
Punto Rojo
He levantado muy levemente los tonos medios a rojo
Verde
Las iluminaciones las he bajado muy levemente a magenta y las sombras muy levemente hacia verde
Azul
Las iluminaciones he bajado bastante a amarillo, los tonos medios lo he bajado a amarillo levemente al igual que sombras.
RGB
Solo he dado mas luz pero muy levemente a las sombras
Filtro radial para cielo
temperatura -6
Exposicion -0.25
Contraste 25
Iluminaciones -35
Sombras +32
Blancos +7
Negros +1
Claridad +31
Saturacion 14
Filtro radias para tierra
Temperatura +2
Matiz -3
Exposicion +0.1
Contraste +26
Iluminaciones -65
Sombras +57
Blancos +22
Negros +6
Claridad 15
Saturacion +14
ENFOQUE
Cantidad 62
Radio 0.8
Detalle 32
Mascara 43
Hello fellow photographers.
I need your help with a Kickstarter campaign. In return, I'll give free full photo editing workflow videos from beginning to end that show all the techniques I use with Photomatix Pro, Topaz and Nik filters, Photoshop and luminosity masks, when you choose a print or book as a reward. Please help me get to the best landscape locations in Europe: www.kickstarter.com/projects/tommyscapes/epic-europe I have a three minute video of me being awkward on camera and attracting yet more flies - check it out!
Thank you :-)
This image is of Lake Tekapo, New Zealand, taken on a whirlwind road trip a few years back, similar to the one I am planning.
This full, free video tutorial is now available for you to download and watch! It shows how to create this image, from beginning to end, and it includes the raw files and my luminance mask action set!
- I have a small request -
If you've enjoyed my materials and found them useful, please can you share the link below to others who you think will also enjoy them.
By doing so you will be helping to support this resource and helping it to grow. The more interest/demand I have in these workflows the more of them I can make.
Thank you and I hope enjoy this new video
www.throughstrangelenses.com/2013/09/08/full-free-post-pr...
I took this photo couple days ago.
I just released new tutorial on my biggest Lightroom workflow secret.
In this episode I will share with you my journey at El Matador Beach and how I use my everyday signature presets to work.
I will also show you first how you install them!! Go check it out!
For this image i wanted to find a workflow with a minimum number of processing steps. I used DeepSkyStacker with the auto white balance (raw) setting so the raw stack already looked good. In Pixinsight the autostretch was transferred to the histogram function followed by slight curves and green reduction with (0.8) SCNR (So no color calibration, no masking, no noise reduction etc.). Image data: Esprit 100 f5.5 refractor and Canon 6Da, 45 x 300 sec iso1600 with 25 flats and 65 biasframes. This is a small crop of the full field of view.
Knight Observatory Tomar.
Probably the question that I get asked more than any other is about my photography workflow. I actually feel like my photography workflow is pretty simple so I thought I'd write up a brief post documenting my process all the way from photo capture to photo publishing. Feel free to ask any questions if you need me to elaborate on things.
1. Step one, capture the image: I carry my Canon 5D and 5 lenses (24mm, 14mm, 50mm, 135mm, 100mm macro) with me in a backpack every where I go. I take advantage of the routine time wasted in a day to turn that time into photography. Walking to and from the BART train. Going out for lunch. Waiting in line somewhere. All kinds of everyday moments become photographic opportunities.
Of course I also go out on specific photowalks all the time. Sometimes these are weekend trips away from home, other times they are just evenings out shooting with friends or with my wife. I use 2 8GB SanDisk cards.
To learn more about what is in my camera bag you can read this post here.
2. Step two, transfer the image to the computer: Here I use a high speed USB card reader. All card readers are not created equal. Spend the extra few bucks and get a high speed reader. Every day or other day I use my card reader to offload images on my camera card to my computer. In my case when I plug in my card reader Canon's "Camera Window" software automatically loads. This software then pulls all of my images off of my CF card and puts them into folders on my computer titled by date taken. After my images are transferred to my MacBook Pro I then put the card back in the camera and delete the images off of it. If I'm on an all day shoot I'll take breaks during my day (coffee, lunnch, etc.) to take a moment and clear out my cards.
Bonus Link: 13 Tips for Using and Caring for Memory Cards.
3. Step three, sort photos: Here I open the folder that has all of the RAW files from a given day's images using Adobe's Bridge software. I create a subfolder in the dated folder called "maybe." I go through the day's photographs and I drag anything that I think might have potential into the "maybe" folder.
4. Step four, first pass processing using Adobe Camera RAW: My next step is to open all images in a day's maybe folder using Adobe Camera RAW (comes with both Photoshop CS3 and Lightroom). You simply select all of the images in your maybe folder, right click, and select "Open in Camera RAW." This is where 95% of my photo processing is done.
With camera RAW you can adjust the contrast of a photo, the exposure of a photo, the saturation of a photo. You can adjust the temperature of a photo (the reason why some white lights are sulfur yellow and other white lights are soft blue), you can adjust the vignette (black or white edges around a photo), fill lighting, etc. Adobe Camera RAW uses sliders to make these adjustments and it is easy as pie.
After I get an individual image to where I want it I will use the "Save" button in camera RAW to save that finished photo as a JPG in a new folder "Finished Images."
After I process my first pass imagery I move that date's archive folder off my Mac and onto my drobo to back it up and store it more safely. Note, none of my RAW files are ever saved as processed. I consider my RAW files my negatives and always want to be able to go back to them and process from scratch if need be.
5. Step five, 2nd pass processing: Once I've finished my first pass processing I will point Bridge to the "finished images" folder. Here I will look at each finished JPG image in as large a format as possible looking for photos that need additional work. Typically less than 10% of my photos need additional work beyond camera RAW.
The type of work here is all done in Photoshop. As I go through the images I look for a few things consistently. Images that need slight sharpening. Images that have dust spots on them that need to be fixed with the cloning tool in Photoshop. Images that could benefit from dodging or burning, etc. As I see an image in Bridge that needs additional fine tuning I will double click on the image in Photoshop, make my edits, save the file and close it.
6. Step six, keywording: My next step is to keyword all of my photos using Adobe Bridge. Adobe Bridge has pretty powerful keywording capabilities. I can batch and bulk keyword photos. I might start out, for instance, keywording every single photo I just processed as "Las Vegas" "DMU Las Vegas Meetup 2008" "Vegas". From there I then might go through sub batches and keyword them (say Caeser's or Wynn or Venetian). From there I might then bulk keyword certain frequently used attributes (neon, mannequin, graffiti, night, etc.). And then I go through each image individually adding any final keywords image by image.
Keywording is important because these keywords will be automatically read as tags by sites like Flickr and Zooomr. It also allows you better to search your finished imagery in the future on your computer. The Importance of Keywording Your Photos.
7. Step seven, geotagging: Here I use a free program called Geotagger. Geotagger works with Google Earth and allows you to pinpoint a spot on the planet using Google Earth and then drag and drop any images from that location onto the program and geotags them with that coordinate. Geotagger only works for the Mac but there are lots of other free geotagging programs like Geotagger out there that work with Windows. When you geotag your photos at the file level both Flickr and Zooomr automatically add them to the meta data on your photo and place them on their site maps.
8. Step eight, sort finished photos into A or B to be uploaded folders: My next step is to go through my imagery and basically sort 80/20. What I feel are my strongest 20% go into a folder "B." The rest go into a folder "C."
9. Step nine, publish: I publish twice a day usually but this is by no means a hard and fast rule. Once in the morning and once in the evening. I typically publish 10-15 photos at a time selected mostly at random from my growing pool of "to be uploadeds."
I make sure that when I upload these 10 or 15 shots in a batch that the "B" shots are uploaded last as Flickr and Zooomr only highlight the last 5 shots that you upload in an upload batch. I want these to be what I feel are my better images.
And that's it. I'm sure that there are more efficient ways that I could be processing my imagery but this has worked for me for a while now. Feel free to ask any questions as the above might sound a bit complicated to some.
Additional reading: Thomas Hawk's Principles and Guidelines for the Modern Photowalker . Brian Auer's Your Guide to Adobe Bridge: Useful Tips and Tricks.
More comments and a conversation about this post over at FriendFeed.
I recently started contributing to an online HDR magazine called HDR one. The magazine covers a wide range of topics related to photography, and specifically to HDR. Last week I put together an article walking through my post processing workflow. I covered every step I took to get from the raw source files to the finished image posted here. You can find my write up here www.hdrone.com/2012/08/26/walking-through-my-hdr-workflow....
I’m often asked how I create my AI photography images—especially by those using the same tools but getting very different results. Here’s a brief tutorial outlining my process for crafting refined AI visuals:
1.Start with a Line Sketch
Create a clean line drawing of your subject. Scan it at a minimum of 300 dpi for optimal clarity—this resolution consistently yields the best results.
2.Recover with AI Photo Tool
Use an AI photo recovery tool to transform your sketch into a base image. I typically select the “Severe” setting to maximize structural fidelity.
3.Enhance with AI Image Tool
Apply an AI image enhancement tool to refine detail. I prefer Version 2 with a 6-pass setting and the “Photography” filter for depth and realism.
4.Retouch for Precision
Use a photography retouch tool to eliminate blemishes, wrinkles, extra fingers, or other AI-generated artifacts. Zoom in closely to catch subtle errors. The lasso tool offers excellent control once mastered.
5.Smooth with Light Enhancement
Apply a light-setting enhancement to correct any smearing from the retouch phase. This step improves lighting, restores clarity, and sharpens the final image.
6.Finalize with Branding
Add your watermark or company symbol to complete the piece and protect your creative identity.