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This piece is part of my new tutorial, will be available in etsy soon

I've done absolutely not editing on this photo beyond the following little action. You can download it here, but below are the steps I took, in case you'd like to expand upon it. I encourage to do that.

 

COLOR POPPER

 

1. convert to Lab mode.

2. command click on the Lightness channel getting a selection.

3. Do Command/control + j making a new layer with that selection.

4. Do Layer > Adjustment > Levels and put "2" in the midpoint box.

5. Do command/control + option/alt + shift + e making a new layer with all the edits.

6. Put that layer in softlight blending mode and set the layer's opacity to 40 percent.

7.Again do command/control + option/alt + shift + e making a new layer with all the edits.

8. Go to channels pallet and choose the lightness channel.

9 Run unsharp mask on the lightness channel with 100% radius 3 threshold three.

10. flatten image and convert to RGB.

 

Credits

 

Get it large!

 

Further Reading: Lee Varis Skin and Dan Margulis

 

Pleasing skin tone tutorial

This piece is part of my new tutorial, will be available in etsy soon

Making a pastry - mix of white and ochre fimo

Simple tutorial of puff tessellation. Start from triangle grid 16 and make double sink in the middle of the paper. Step no 5 and 6 are not flat.

Blending Tutorial

  

This is probably the most extensive blending/colour matching I’ve done and took a while to get it right. The main problem was that the AUG and F2K lowers that I wanted to blend together had different shades, despite being the same colour code. This meant using a hex code generator to find a code that would match the two. I use this: www.w3schools.com/tags/ref_colorpicker.asp

  

Fig.1: In the complete design, the green colour code I wanted for the lower half was 55564c – this matched the AUG lower (coded at 55564c) and the F2K. The F2K however had to be coloured at 5e6054 because of the shading on the preset part. This allows the lighter parts of the F2K lower to match the AUG.

  

Fig.2: Find points on both lowers that match, making it easier to blend – the two magwells in this case line up perfectly.

  

Fig.3: You can see how little is left of the F2K lower after matching it to the AUG and adding solid shapes at 55564C. Half shaded squares are used to blend the shaded parts of the AUG and F2K grips into one, rotating these as required to match at an appropriate scale. Unwanted areas are deleted with white shapes – always remember to outline.

   

#tutorial hadhart.blogspot.co.id/2017/10/tutorial-origami-tank-orig... #panzer #paper #танк #оригами

First, I processed the image in Adobe Camera Raw to boost the contrast and boost the greens a bit (not all the way, check out the last step). During this process, I made the overall picture darker using the exposure slider. I made it darker so the light beams would be more apparent.

 

Second, I created the burst of light (simulated sun). To do this, I created a new soft light layer that was solid gray (solid gray shows up as nothing in soft light mode). Then, I used filter->render->lens flare to create the flare of light on the soft light layer. I used the 105mm Prime for this flare. I used a soft light layer to do this so I could (1) erase everything rendered except for the actual flare and (2) I could use the move tool to move the flare around on the page to position it in the right place.

 

Third, I created the beams of light. Check out this tutorial for generating beams of light using the gradient tool: www.photoradar.com/techniques/technique/add-gradient-ligh... This is a great tutorial, but I think that the effect is a bit overdone in the example (he may have done that on purpose so emphasize the effect for the tutorial). For me, trying to make something look real is an exercise in control -- remember that less is more. First, I created all of my beams on a separate layer so I could have control over them once they were rendered. To make the beams less obvious, I first used the Gaussian Blur filter to blur them out a bit. Next, I used the opacity slider to make the beams translucent and less obvious. Last, I created a layer mast and used it to erase the ends of some of the beams (to have them end in different places on the picture) and I erased the beams from in front of some of the trees (to make it look like the beams passed behind the trees in some places).

 

Fourth, I created the mist on the ground. First off, let me just say that I'm not completely happy with the way that the mist turned out. If anyone knows a good tutorial for creating mist, let me know. To create the mist, I Google searched for "cloud brushes", found one, downloaded it and used it as a "mist brush". Again, less is more. I dialed the opacity way back on this (party because I don't love it and partly because it looked more "real" to me).

 

Last, I worked on the colors. To boost the greens to the final level, I used a technique that utilizes LAB color mode to boost color. You can find an action for doing this here (second action from the top). I use this all the time (selectively). I've removed the sharpening part from the action that I use because I prefer to sharpen things at the very end of my workflow. After boosting the greens, I used a cross processing action to finish off the look and give it a bit of a different overall tone (it also added a bit of a blue cast to the beams, which I liked). Last, I sharpened a bit and added a slight vignette.

 

That's it. It's not perfect, but I like the processed version better than the original. Let me know if I missed anything.

 

Here's the link to the final shot: www.flickr.com/photos/lighthack/5230867357/

I've had several people ask off and on about how to do rounded corners. I've done it several ways in the past. However, this is a technique I discovered several months ago and have been using it ever since. It's so easy and fast, once you do it a few times it literally takes seconds to do.

 

I have everything I talk about in this tutorial circled in bright green.

 

View the original size to be able to read the tutorial text.

 

I'm pretty sure I have my permissions set so you all can see the original. But just in case, here's a link to view it BIG

Find the free tutorial for making these sweet painted drawer pull toadstools here:

beneaththerowantree.blogspot.com/2010/05/magical-little-m...

Tutorial for an old build with minor updates. Re-photographed and edited.

 

Also availible on youtube

www.youtube.com/watch?v=CUJye1Ns3PQ

 

Designed with Lego Digital Designer (LDD)

www.lego.com/en-us/ldd

 

Music

Texas Techno by Audionautix is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution license (creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/)

Artist: audionautix.com/

 

hello hello hello. new monkey tutorial- www.noyaart.com/index.php/--26/monkey-tutorial enjoy!

if you have any quetions-pls let me know!

Tutorial for an old build. Re-photographed and

 

edited.

 

Also availible on youtube

youtu.be/iSWWeZkzh5s

 

Designed with Lego Digital Designer (LDD)

www.lego.com/en-us/ldd

 

Music

Craig MacArthur - The DeLong Incident

Doug Maxwell - Psychedelicacy

This tutorial is NOT mine.

 

This will help me or you if you ever wondered how to take the class eye out of a bratzillaz.

 

1: make sure you have the right size eye.

Details on top.

 

2.Heat the eye with a blowdryer. Get something like a small tiny screwdriver to pull eye out. Next enter your eyes inside the head and your done!

 

Hope u like it. :) hope this is handy.

This is a little tutorial I whipped up!

 

Find it here

forwardcameras.com Our vintage camera shop is always open. Maybe it’s time to buy a beautiful film camera? Join us on a journey through time. Forward Cameras vintage camera shop is proud to sell on Etsy. Check out our website: forwardcameras.com Follow us also on Instagram @forwardcameras Twitter @ForwardCameras Facebook Page: Forward Cameras and subscribe to our YouTube Channel for more camera tutorials: Forward Cameras 📷

Copyright 2005-2009 AlexEdg AllEdges (www.alledges.com).

 

Tutorial Photoshop CS2.

Photomatix

CUSTOMIZING EYES TUTORIAL for Pullips, Taeyangs and Dals by SHERYL DESIGNS

Tutorial at mipullip.com

 

This is some sort of tutorial on how I do my brick wall backgrounds. Though scrapbooking papers can give you a very realistic and easy brick background, sometimes I love to make a "real" wall with texture and color.

The wall is made out of styrofoam, the window is made of foamboard.

 

This is the cut wall with the window cutout and sketched lines for the layout of the bricks. Gigi and Holly are watching closely, Holly cuz she finds it interesting, Gigi taking care I don't make mistakes, of course... ; P

Aquí os dejo un tutorial para realizar mediante la técnica de Origami estos bonitos Crane. Si quereis conocer cómo poder combinar estos bonitos "origami crane" pasaros por mi blog:

 

j-emma.blogspot.com/

 

Espero que os guste!!

A Pink Eyeshadow Makeup Tutorial (Male to Female Transgender / Crossdressing Tips)

transgenre.silicone-breast.com/2016/09/09/a-pink-eyeshado...

www.makeupandbeautyblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/04/20...

  

Loving the pink eye shadow look!

  

Not long ago, Anna, Adia and I collaborated on how we rock pink eyeshadow, "sissy" and many of you wanted to know how I got my look! I loved it too, so I thought I would do a quick tutorial. It’s actually super easy.

 

Are you ready? Here we g

 

If you love glycerin soap crafting you will love my new Soapylove tutorial collection. Divided up into 4 categories, there are over 100 original Soapylove projects with links to the tutorials. If you love melt and pour soap or have wanted to try it, start here! www.flickr.com/photos/soapylove/collections/7215762748429...

This is a simple tutorial I put on my blog www.2smart-clothencounters.blogspot.com

as several people had expressed an interest.. I have re-posted it hers

Resultado final :)

Cualquier duda me avisan ;)

Sou apaixonada por guirlanda e esse pap é muito fácil, pode ser feito enquanto se assiste os jogos da copa. Tutorial sugerido por Lindsay

Pode ver a venda aqui no Etsy

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