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Just little techniques I’m WIP’n up for my new diesel - it’s in blue for this example, because I don’t have the parts for dark green :/
I don't often post instructions or techniques but though I would just put this out here. Not that great at editing it all together but some might find it interesting. It's the cockpit area from my most recent starfighter - Toxic V1. I built it from memory in LDD, so hopefully its OK. Probably should have chosen a different angle/more colored details for some of the harder to figure out areas. Feel free to recommend improvements or change any part of this to suit your needs. 74 pieces as is.
I was playing around with the shell extensions, and came upon this. There's enough room to fit various Technic connectors through the gap.
Technique is everything when using the 2x with the 500mm , this is ok , but I have shaky hands , so much better is possible.
Canon EOS-1D Mark IV
ƒ/8.0
1000.0 mm
1/800
iso 1600
Here is a new set of LEGO ideas and techniques, made with LDD
I'm sure you'll find a use to this idea
I tried to make the explanation readable thanks to the colors as if we had a tutorial
Do not forget to watch the album with all the right techniques on your right =>
Find all my creations on Flickr group « News LEGO Techniques ».
This Flickr group includes:
- Ideas for new LEGO pieces
- Techniques for assembling bricks
- Tutorials for making accessories, objects, etc.
Xylography or engraving is the etching technique in which wood is used as a template and allows the playback of the recorded image on paper or other suitable support. It is a very similar process with a stamp.
These hands are one of the best artists from Brazil , Dra . Yolanda Carvalho.
The new armor piece (left) fits nicely with many types of blades from the old sets.
The masks (right) can circle around the new 6 loader. I wanted to make a motorcycle but don't have enough masks.
When building the APC from the movie Aliens, I had to come up with a way to make a sliding door that didn't add too much of a "mechanism" stealing space from the interior. During the whole project I was focusing on movie accurate functionality inside small spaces.
This sliding door is really effective with just a few pieces. The base for the idea is that the thin wall element matches the thin plate of the part holding the door. That makes the door slide sturdy with some friction tight against the wall. The little handle inside to the left keeps the door in place when fully closed. In this example there where not much extra space for anything. I can see how this technique could be developed further for different purposes. Color was an issue as well. For example I'd love to have a 1x1 corner wall element in dark stone, but without it I used the end slope as a stop for the door making the opening slightly narrower than 4 studs which I think helps keeping the sence of minifig scale.
Here is a new set of LEGO ideas and techniques, made with LDD
I'm sure you'll find a use to this idea
I tried to make the explanation readable thanks to the colors as if we had a tutorial
Do not forget to watch the album with all the right techniques on your right =>
Find all my creations on Flickr group « News LEGO Techniques ».
This Flickr group includes:
- Ideas for new LEGO pieces
- Techniques for assembling bricks
- Tutorials for making accessories, objects, etc.
This is my final image (for now) from a new project, with hodachrome (he is a genius with an LC-A so check him out!). This film swap was based around the "EBS" technique (exposed both sides): we shot a roll of film on the "normal" side, and when finished the film was then reversed and rewound, so that the second exposure was shot on the "wrong" side. When shooting on the reverse side, the image is "red-scaled" - all colours become shades of red. With this first roll, hodachrome shot his favorite view from Midland Square's observatory in Nagoya city, then I shot on the "redscale" side at Shoreham Harbour, just outside Brighton. I spoke with the guy on the boat, who informed me it was 120 years old. With this shot I like the patchwork mix of normal and red-scale colour.
LC-A+, Fuji 800, EBS Film Swap with Hodaka
And please say "hello" on my fotobes facebook page too if you'd like!
Some ideas using the 27928. Rotated 45 degrees and fitted into a 6x6 frame.
Read more on New Elementary.
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Icosahedron
Made out of 30 Technic pins and 12 2x2 dishes.
Though I don't have 12 4x4 dishes on hand, I believe that if one was attached to each of the shown 2x2 dishes it would form a remarkably spherical sphere. Also, if you used friction pins and double connectors you could essentially double the length of the technic pins and significantly enlarge the shape, and could then cover it with 6x6 dishes. Similar adjustments could be used for larger dish sizes.
Now to find a use for it...
This is my first decent double exposure. I make this for a contest on PHLearn.com, and I won!
(There was only permited dodge, burn, and crop) Tomorrow I hope I can edit some cliffs photographs :)
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Esta es mi primera doble exposición decente. La hice para un concurso en PHLearn.com, ¡y gané!
Sólo estaban permitidas las ediciones que se pudiesen hacer en cuarto oscuro (subexponer, sobreexponer, y recortar)
Mañana espero poder editar algunas fotos de los acantilados :)
Finished what I think are two of the most complicated sections in this design. The roof peak and the balcony had so many details on angled surfaces it took all my tricks to figure out how to fit it all in.
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The Photochrom technique for printing "colour" images started in the late 1880s. As I said previously it required three black and white negatives to be colourised Red, Green and Blue (RGB).
I could give you a range of different results, but I'm only going to show you a couple of outcomes. I have used the same black and white image in each case so that we can make a genuine comparison. In this case we have three fully saturated images and when combined we get the result above.
It is an interesting comparison with the 50 percent saturation. In this fully saturated version we get a sky that appears in the clouds to have some colour about it, but the blue in this case seems to balance the red.
on your side
one of the final stages of a 12k assault course, an 80ft slide down a steep hill with a steady flow of soap & water. The final drop in front of onlooking crowd was bone crunching :-/
total warrior, Leeds
Some ideas using the 27928. In combination with Nexo Knight shields and Minecraft minifigure head.
Read more on New Elementary.
How the wheels were assembled for the 6952 remake I built.
This was also the technique I used for the wheels on my Futuron Rover.
Yes, I decided to take the bricks out for a blast. One of the side effects was this, and I am pretty happy with it. It is a kitchen chair, so that explains the long back in it.
2018-11-20 backup from gitbook
2011-06-04 ƒ/7.1／0.5s／IS0 200 Nikon D70s+Tokina 12-24mm f/4@13.0mm
This photo is available for licensing exclusively on Getty Images：#153464693
即使是在容易下雨的季節，這個小小的小瀑布也總是像皺了的花瓣一樣，虛弱的倒掛在溪石之間，慢慢的讓水流乾，彷彿正在經歷垂死的過程。接近乾季的這個時候，竟能看見這個小瀑布有足夠的水量，像盛開的花朵一樣鋪展開來，實在是不容易。這張照片曝光只有0.5秒，曝的是陰影處，遮黑卡的地方是白色的溪水與上方倒三角形的綠色區域。
這段拍溪歷程之漫長，在別人眼裡很可能是染上了某種詭異的溪流幻想症，說得更精確是 - 在我第一次把腳踩進溪水的時候就已經染上了。我置身於山林溪流裡，也置身在一片混沌的夢境之中，而這條溪流裡的一切是那麼真實，但是很多時候卻又那麼的撲朔迷離，讓人迷失在一個無邊無界的夢境中而不自知。灰暗的天空真的很容易讓人的心情變複雜，這心情它到底是被我自己的胡思亂想給迷惑了？還是被山林裡無法控制的另一股力量給操控著呢？
「沒關係的啦，反正你都已經拍了三年，現在後悔也晚了。」我試著找個理由安慰自己，只是這個理由反而讓我的鬱悶又更加重了些...
GPS：121°32'56.18"E,25°13'42.70"N
Black Card technique photography／Single RAW／no PS Layers process／no HDR process
First of all until I get my sharpening technique down pat it looks a lot better on black
After all this rain I knew that we could be in for a good sunset and wanted to play my cards right to make sure I was somewhere good for it. So I headed down to elephant rock in palm beach a local favourite of photographers and was lucky enough to get the sunset I was hoping for.
Next time for a shot like this I think i'll have no choice but bracketing due to the large difference in light from one side of the frame to the other.
7 Image Stitch Panosaurus Head
Hoya CP
Cokin ND Grad
Just discovered this while sorting my pieces. Not entirely mathematically accurate, but creates a nice texture with pieces that are widely available in an average LEGO collection.
Can be repeated ad infinitum.
Inside of the tower, showing how I achieved the angled top.
The stack of brick with either 3 or 5 studs can be used with one dot (1x1 round plate) on either side, By placing two of the 2xn plates on alternate sides and twisting, it allows a tight and clean connection,
It the happens that a cheese slope fits in the top cleanly (as can be seen in the insert)
Technique: My sister in law's Lavender is loaded with all sorts of creatures. Unfortunately I didn't get to get to her place in the mountains above Itri, Italy until about 10:00 AM and the light wasn't ideal. So I shot with the sun in front of me to back light the subject and hopefully get a break in the contrast.
Tech Specs: Canon 80D (F8, 1/1000, ISO 800 with highlight tone priority) + a Canon 100-400mm F4-F5.6 L II with IS enabled. Natural light with the subject back lit. This is a single, uncropped, frame taken hand held.
Here are a few more visor techniques I found and have queued up. I like to save them until I use them before I post, but they're starting to overflow.
I don't know if some of these have been found but in the case that they aren't, I'm posting them here.
p.s. I still have a ton of techniques that I haven't shown yet.
I really wanted a 1 x 2 cheese slope stuck on each end of that girder. The one end was easy, but the other was not. That's pneumatic tubing around the minifig hands. The 1 x 2 plate helps to hold it, but isn't necessary.
The rounded plate on the right sits below the one on the left. The bricks on the bottom of the plates sit into the gaps in the roof and hold the plates on.
The reddish brown tiles represent the outer wall, the 1x1 column represents the corner of the wall that the roof slopes to.
A breakdown of how I built the corner roof sections on the Green Goblet: www.flickr.com/photos/66620538@N04/15599693464/.