View allAll Photos Tagged techniques
This is intended to become the base on which some device can swivel around. It took a bit of trial and error to make it almost perfectly round. I added the inner hole just for fun :)
Perhaps of use.
Speaking of useful, if you only have a phone and struggle with photographing your stuff properly, have a look at my latest video here here.
Join The Workshop 'n say hi.
Sometimes, fireworks don't explode where you expect them... Thanks to photoshop, I develop my own technique to put them where I want them to be plus combining this with my DRI technique.
Parfois les feux d'artifices n'explosent pas toujours là où on voudrait... Grâce à photoshop, j'ai développé ma technique qui me permet de les mettre là où je les veux en la combinant à ma technique DRI.
.
.
.
Follow me on FACEBOOK
.
.
.
WEBSITE .......: www.jeansurprenant.com
.
.
.
BUY or LICENCE IT HERE
.
.
.
My GETTY IMAGES work
.
.
.
Thanks for the visits, comments, awards, invitations and favorites. Please don't use my images on websites, blogs or others medias without my explicit permission.
Thanks!
© All rights reserved
My technique is alway the same:
Three exposures -2EV, 0, +2EV and then temperature adjustement using Lightroom and layering with luminosity mask using photoshop. Removal of distracting stuff with the stamp tool or patch tool. High pass filter to enhance details. Then saturation, contrast selectively control, dodge and burn where need...
DRI stand for Dynamic Range Increase. Three RAW files are used to achieve this. Rather than using a software like Photomatix for instance, I simply use mask to blend, my own way, the light, dark and normal shot with Photoshop and Lightroom.. To me, It looks more natural than the usual HDR treatment that I would normally applied.
Merci pour les visites, commentaires, récompenses, invitations et favoris. S.V.P. n'utilisez pas mes images sur des sites web, blogs ou autres médias sans ma permission.
Merci!
© Tous droits réservés
Ma technique est toujours la même:
Trois prises de vue -2EV, 0, +2EV. Ensuite ajustement de la température de couleur avec Lightroom et usage de calques et masques de luminosités avec Photoshop. Retrait d'éléments de distraction avec l'outil tampon. Filtre High pass pour le rehaussement des détails. Ensuite saturation et contraste ajustés de façon sélectives et locales. Dodge and burn là où requis...
DRI vient de l'anglais Dynmic Range Increase, qui pourrait se traduire par étendue dynamique améliorée. Les même 3 fichiers RAW entrent dans la composition d'un DRI. Plutôt que de se servir d'un logiciel comme Photomatix qui fait tout le travail, je me sers plutôt de masques pour filtrer l'éclairage dans photoshop et Lightroom. De mon point de vue, cette façon de faire donne une image plus naturel que le traitement HDR que j'employais auparavant.
.
.
.
Follow me on FACEBOOK
.
.
.
WEBSITE .......: www.jeansurprenant.com
.
.
.
BUY or LICENCE IT HERE
.
.
.
My GETTY IMAGES work
Panning Technique
From Kuwait Jet Ski Championship 2008
To get the best results for this kind of Photos try the Shutter priority mode, with the magic hat, and good cooling system :)
Technical Specs :
Camera: Canon EOS 1D Mark III
Lens: Canon EF 400mm f/5.6L USM
Exposure Program: Shutter priority
Exposure: 0.017 sec (1/60)
Aperture: f/20
ISO Speed: 100
Part of the Sports Set
© AMMAR ALOTHMAN
Copyright for this photo belongs solely to AMMAR ALOTHMAN.
Images may not be copied, downloaded, or used in any way without the expressed, written permission of the photographer.
“All the tools,
techniques and technology
in the world are nothing
without the head, heart and hands
to use them wisely, kindly and mindfully”
(Rasheed Ogunlaru)
Mini Block Planer
(Solid brass and rose wood)
For #MacroMondays #HandTool
Macro: <3” x 1 ½"
”
Happy MM Everyone !
ƒ/2.8
4.5 mm
1/15 Sec
ISO 400
June 8th, 2018 (8:22)
Dedicated to C.F. (ILYWAMHASAM)
Si l'on regarde l'offre actuelle des différents constructeurs en matière de boîtiers photo, tous les modèles affichent une fiche technique particulièrement fournie. Dès lors, une question récurrente se pose : est-il possible de tomber sur un "mauvais" boîtier ?
En fait, tout dépend de ce dont on parle. En termes de qualité d'image, tous les boîtiers, même en entrée de gamme, sont capables de livrer des clichés très qualitatifs, avec un bon niveau de détails et une excellente restitution des couleurs. De même, tous les boîtiers vendus aujourd'hui dépassent (et de très loin) les performances de leurs aînés sur les photos en basse lumière. Il y a quelques années, capturer des clichés à 6400 ISO était presque impensable ; aujourd'hui, c'est devenu quelque chose de "presque" banal.
En fait, la différence entre deux boîtiers va se jouer sur d'autres critères. Je pense notamment à l'autofocus : non seulement en termes de vitesse d'accroche du sujet, mais aussi d'efficacité de la détection et du suivi du sujet et de son œil (humain, animaux, véhicules, etc).
De même, la vitesse en rafale – mais aussi la capacité de la mémoire tampon (buffer) – sont deux aspects importants.
Enfin, l'ergonomie va être un point assez intéressant à étudier : même au sein d'une même marque, certains appareils s'avèrent plus agréables à prendre en main et à utiliser que d'autres.
En définitive et dans mon cas de figure, j’ai décidé de ne plus faire l’acquisition de nouveaux boîtiers même, si je dois vous l’avouer avoir été très intéressé par le nouveau Nikon Z9 après l’avoir eu en mains pendant quelques temps et prêté gratuitement par l’importateur de l’enseigne en Belgique !
Ma conclusion est qu’avec ma collection relativement importante de boîtiers et d’objectifs Nikon, j’ai décidé de continuer de shooter avec mes deux boîtiers phares à savoir le D500 et le D4s et d’utilisés les autres qu’occasionnellement !
Pour les objectifs le problème est évidemment différent puisqu’ils resteront toujours fonctionnels avec n’importe quel boîtier choisi !
Bonne journée et à bientôt les artistes :D
************************************* PdF************************************** °********************************************************************************
If we look at the current offer of the various manufacturers in terms of photo cameras, all the models display a particularly extensive technical sheet. Therefore, a recurring question arises: is it possible to come across a "bad" box?
In fact, it all depends on what we are talking about. In terms of image quality, all cameras, even entry-level, are capable of delivering high-quality shots, with a good level of detail and excellent color reproduction. Similarly, all cameras sold today exceed (by far) the performance of their elders in low-light photos. A few years ago, capturing shots at ISO 6400 was almost unthinkable; today, it has become something "almost" commonplace.
In fact, the difference between two boxes will be played on other criteria. I'm thinking in particular of the autofocus: not only in terms of the speed of capturing the subject, but also of the effectiveness of the detection and tracking of the subject and its eye (human, animals, vehicles, etc.).
Likewise, burst speed – but also buffer capacity – are two important aspects.
Finally, ergonomics will be a rather interesting point to study: even within the same brand, some devices are more pleasant to handle and use than others.
In the end and in my case, I decided not to acquire new cameras even, if I must admit to you that I was very interested in the new Nikon Z9 after having had it in my hands for a few time and loaned free of charge by the importer of the sign in Belgium!
My conclusion is that with my relatively large collection of Nikon cameras and lenses, I decided to continue shooting with my two flagship cameras, the D500 and the D4s and only used the others occasionally!
For the lenses the problem is obviously different since they will always remain functional with any chosen case!
Have a nice day and see you soon artists :D
I decided to give Clemmy a little makeover and here is her new crazy wild hair.... I hope you like her :D... if anyone would like to know how to do this then please do leave comments or feel free to message :D
Thanks for the visit :)
When setting up this shoot I wanted to achieve a otherworldly winter feeling. Using smoke bombs and some post processing techniques I feel like I achieved what I was going for. Hope you enjoy.
My first model of 2017, I have had the idea for this build for sometime, and finally found time to do it. The building is modeled after Bits and Pieces, the general store in Solitude from the game Skyrim. I used the same stonework design as I did in my Nordheim Farmhouse creation, though this time in dark bley. A tutorial for that technique is available. The rather complex layout of the building offered some challenges to recreate in LEGO, but I’m quite pleased with the finished result. It lifts off the base and hinges open to reveal the full interior.
See plenty more images on brickbuilt.
The matte painting (which can be translated with painting backgrounds) is a technique used mainly in film used to allow the representation of landscapes or places otherwise too costly or impossible to reconstruct or reach directly.
Ask for a preventive in my virtual shop at the site mobiliperufficio.com/Maurizio_Poli/home
Richiedete un preventico nel mio negozio virtuale al sito mobiliperufficio.com/Maurizio_Poli/home
A candid photo taken in the Amazon area a few miles up river from Iquitos, Peru. A black and white cropped edit from a previous upload.
A photography blog about the compositional technique of framing
If you would like to use any of my photos please contact me and ask permission first.
If you want to look at more of my photography you can check my website and social media links below:
www.facebook.com/geraintrowlandphotography
www.instagram.com/geraint_rowland_photography/
Welcome back to that weird thing I do where I choose a random week and post a new technique every day of that week!
This first one is another grass technique. It's fairly straightforward: Gather up a bunch of Rock 1x1 Crystal 5 Point pieces and attach a minifigure hand to each "point", then place the structures on a plate. Note that each crystal has to be 1 1/2 studs away from every other crystal, so the easiest way to set them up is to use 1x1 plates, 1x2 jumpers and 2x2 jumpers in such a way that each available stud is 1 1/2 studs away from the other nearest available studs. Also note that the crystals generally come in weird colors and so you have to hide the bottom half of the construction, but that's not all too difficult.
This technique is rather fragile. The hands bend back and forth at the slightest touch and it doesn't take much force for them to come off completely. However, the technique is still more sturdy than simply propping up minifigure hands on a studded surface, as I've seen builders do in the past.
More techniques soon to come! Some more useful than others. :P
If you have 1000 cupboard doors and no cupboards for them what could you use them for?
(Half-plate offsets done with headlights.)
Since my last grass technique was a bit too unkempt to make a nice football field, I tried out some other pieces to see if I could come up with something neater :)
This is basically made from two elements:
32828 - Bar 1L with 1 x 1 Round Plate with Hollow Stud
30126 - Minifig, Plume Feathers with Pin
I think this looks much more like what you'd find on a football field, orderly but not so patterned that it looks unnatural. A bonus is that since the elements are loosely organised in lines, it is possible make white lines in the grass by changing the color of some of the plumes. The minifigs still have to balance on top of the grass though :)
I've made a tutorial for this type of grass that can be found here:
I took a trip to Whitsands Bay on Monday, strangely this was my first time here even though I live rather close. I have a fear not heights so driving or walking along the high clifftops always have made me feel uncomfortable. But this time I power through and got down to the beach.
Rather simple shot of just the waves, sand and sky but it one I have been wanting to take for ages.
Lately I find myself wanting to experiment with HDR techniques gradually less ... I try to use all other available tools in order to successfully bring a captured scene into life, to make it presentable and to tell you the truth in most cases I'm not at all disappointed by the final results ...
I use multiple layers' image processing techniques and I also use masks in order to blend more than one captures together ... The above scene frame is a working combination of two captures taken from the same place but within a ten minutes' interval from one another ... The Flamingos' shot was taken first, the clarity was fine but I was not particularly happy with the background ... The second shot was a 2s long exposure and it came later, when "alas" my approach to the scene made the flamingos' fly away ... Thank God we live at a wonderful digital era ...
This kind of processing places extra meaning to Ansel Adams's words ... "You don't take a shot ... you actually make it !!! '' ...
NIKON D90 DSLR with Nikon Nikkor 18 - 55 lens, Manual Mode, f 10, ISO 125, focal length 18 mm, manually adjusted focusing, shutter speed 1/20 s (first shot), 2 s the second one, Auto white balance, PATTERN metering mode, no flash, use of tripod in both captures ...
© Copyright - All rights reserved
I made a water tower for an upcoming build and used this technique to make it. Not sure if it's new/ of use to anyone but thought I'd post it anyway. Would work for stairs too?
Using circus techniques, pyrotechnics, and video projection to create the visualization of liberty and the joy of flying, GLOBE is an alienating, fairylike spectacle full of symbolism.
Established in 1991, Close-Act is an international street theatre company that combines various disciplines of performing arts, like dance, music and circus, with stunning visual representations.
The company performed mostly in Europe in the early years, but now present their shows and acts worldwide.*
*http://nightfestival.sg/programmes/detail/globe
I like to experiment with techniques, and have recently tried physically intervening with the film negative. The polkadot series started with photographing a number of buildings using a 6cm x 9cm medium format camera. After processing, I used a 10mm punch and a hammer to knock out discs of film, which I then arranged on a flat bed scanner.
The last of today's design scraps, I designed this capital of the Corinthian order to top this common column design: www.brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?i=2693252
Sometimes, fireworks don't explode where you expect them... Thanks to photoshop, I develop my own technique to put them where I want them to be plus combining this with my DRI technique.
Parfois les feux d'artifices n'explosent pas toujours là où on voudrait... Grâce à photoshop, j'ai développé ma technique qui me permet de les mettre là où je les veux en la combinant à ma technique DRI.
.
.
.
Follow me on FACEBOOK
.
.
.
WEBSITE .......: www.jeansurprenant.com
.
.
.
BUY or LICENCE IT HERE
.
.
.
My GETTY IMAGES work
.
.
.
Thanks for the visits, comments, awards, invitations and favorites. Please don't use my images on websites, blogs or others medias without my explicit permission.
Thanks!
© All rights reserved
My technique is alway the same:
Three exposures -2EV, 0, +2EV and then temperature adjustement using Lightroom and layering with luminosity mask using photoshop. Removal of distracting stuff with the stamp tool or patch tool. High pass filter to enhance details. Then saturation, contrast selectively control, dodge and burn where need...
DRI stand for Dynamic Range Increase. Three RAW files are used to achieve this. Rather than using a software like Photomatix for instance, I simply use mask to blend, my own way, the light, dark and normal shot with Photoshop and Lightroom.. To me, It looks more natural than the usual HDR treatment that I would normally applied.
Merci pour les visites, commentaires, récompenses, invitations et favoris. S.V.P. n'utilisez pas mes images sur des sites web, blogs ou autres médias sans ma permission.
Merci!
© Tous droits réservés
Ma technique est toujours la même:
Trois prises de vue -2EV, 0, +2EV. Ensuite ajustement de la température de couleur avec Lightroom et usage de calques et masques de luminosités avec Photoshop. Retrait d'éléments de distraction avec l'outil tampon. Filtre High pass pour le rehaussement des détails. Ensuite saturation et contraste ajustés de façon sélectives et locales. Dodge and burn là où requis...
DRI vient de l'anglais Dynmic Range Increase, qui pourrait se traduire par étendue dynamique améliorée. Les même 3 fichiers RAW entrent dans la composition d'un DRI. Plutôt que de se servir d'un logiciel comme Photomatix qui fait tout le travail, je me sers plutôt de masques pour filtrer l'éclairage dans photoshop et Lightroom. De mon point de vue, cette façon de faire donne une image plus naturel que le traitement HDR que j'employais auparavant.
.
.
.
Follow me on FACEBOOK
.
.
.
WEBSITE .......: www.jeansurprenant.com
.
.
.
BUY or LICENCE IT HERE
.
.
.
My GETTY IMAGES work
Just realized this is possible and wanted to keep it for future reference, as I have no direct need for it now. Hope others find it useful too. This should allow for reasonably decent angled stripes too because you could continue to go diagonal with multiple 2x2s, 3x3s or 4x4s in a row.
There are slight gaps, but not large enough to fill with ½ plate elements. Those gaps can be used as subtle greebling, so it's not that bad if you can make it work for you.
Note I did not have a 3x3 plate at hand but it's not required: the solution shown here is one plate higher than a single 3x3 plate would be. If you want to cover things with tiles, the extra plate height is unavoidable for 3x3 and 4x4 anyway.
You can do this with larger wedge plates too, obviously.
I always like to improve my building techniques, so i tried my hands on a new water technique for my recent build.
In general it's the normal trans tiles + different shades of grey underground -technique, but now flowing.
To get this effect it needs a LOT of tiles and nearly twice as much 1x1 Tiles with clip.
One clip always hold two tiles together.
Using the usual tolerance of the bricks it's possible to bend the plain water into waves.
Another technique!
If this looks familiar to you, that's likely because there are two other ways to achieve this effect, namely the well-known technique of connecting 1x2 tiles with minifigure hands (which, as far as I can tell, can be attributed to Barney Main) and this technique by Simon NH. However, if you are looking for something that is sturdier than the first option and don't own a bunch of 2x2 corner tiles, this variation might work for you. The key piece here is the inverted 2x2 tile, which can be combined with 1x2 tiles and a simple support structure in back. Rotating the pieces as far as is possible to get a rougher texture helps to distinguish the individual "bricks" in the wall from one another and makes for a more interesting texture. It's also helpful to utilize two colors rather than one. I originally though that this technique would be fairly limited in terms of color, but it turns out the 2x2 inverted tile is available in light and dark bley, tan, and sand green, so you can actually achieve a fair bit of variety with this technique in terms of color.
I'll be posting more techniques in the next couple of days (because a little bit of sensationalism never hurts :P ). If you've seen this technique before, please let me know! I don't want to "claim" techniques that other people discovered before I did. In any case, feel free to use this.
"A hut is a primitive dwelling, which may be constructed of various local materials. Huts are a type of vernacular architecture because they are built of readily available materials such as wood, stone, grass, branches, and mud using techniques passed down through the generations."
I'm sure someone's probably found this before, but if not, then yay!
It moves with some stiffness, and is sturdy for minor applications.
When you go to the Texas State Fair, you MUST eat corndogs! I'm demonstrating my proper corndog eating "technique" here.
Technique: colored pencils, markers and watercolors on 425gsm watercolor paper, 25 x 18 cm...
One of the first pieces from the new series but I've just finished it recently...not one of my favorites though, I guess that's why it took me so long to get it done...
I've started to develop this wall technique about a year ago and with the release of the "new" hollow studs I was able to create a technique which isn't to part intensive but still as detailed as I wanted it to be. My goal always was to create something that comes really close to reality and with this technique I am finally able to create gaps in a wall totally flexible. You may use plates instead of tiles only or vary in colors. Like in the back right, small clips could be used to recreate tiny bricks or fill up gaps. Edges are no problem with this technique, which differs it from many other techniques I've seen or used before.
Hope you like (and maybe use) it,
greetz ;)
Used here
I reckon I've come up with a new building technique using a 30134 - Staircase 7x4x6 as rafters.
The advantages of using a 30134 - Staircase 7x4x6 piece in this context is allowing the roof to be structurally stronger and they also represent the wooden rafters that go diagonally across a typical roof. Follow the link below to see the technique used in context.
Attic
www.flickr.com/photos/adeelzubair/32285679166
Camera
-Apple iPhone SE
________________________________________________
Follow Me On...
Facebook - www.facebook.com/Adeel-Zubair-208739829518301/
Flickr - www.flickr.com/photos/adeelzubair/
Instagram - www.instagram.com/adeel_zubair
Deviantart - www.adeelaubair.deviantart.com
Twitter - www.twitter.com/webhead_studios
Youtube - www.youtube.com/user/webheadstudios
LinkedIn - www.linkedin.com/in/adeel-zubair-b969b111b
Behance - www.behance.net/adeelzubair
I've discovered two ways of making 5 point stars, but I'm having trouble finding uses for them because they are tricky to attach to a moc.
I was a massive fan of the V-19 when it first appeared on the Tarkovsky animated show and I always wanted to build my own working version in LEGO.
Although my previous attempt at this ship was quite popular and well received, I was never quite content with it.
After rewatching the Clone Wars show ahead of the release of season 7, the flaws in my model flaws seemed even more apparent; mainly that it was way out of scale compared to the jedi interceptors.
I started again from scratch working around a new mechanism to fold the central wing. The result is a much more reliable and sturdy attachment that clicks into place thanks to the technic rotation joint. It can even balance on the central wing which would be unthinkable of the previous version!
I discovered a fun new technique to create the striped paint scheme running down the edges of the wings. I think they look a lot more refined compared to the previous attempt now that they are entirely SNOT.
All in all a huge improvement on the original, I hope you agree!
A couple of people here and on Eurobricks asked about the offset in the board walk on my last build. Here is a breakdown. It's something I've seen somewhere on Flickr and shamelessly copied, but I can't find my original source to give proper credit.
Lacul Morii-Bucharest city-Soligor 17mm F4
*Not the brand or technique is important in photographic art, but the understanding of the things behind the photographed subjects, the emotion, the composition, the joy or the sadness, the life itself that is mysteriously coming unrepeatable as a gift.
(Horia Stanicel)
* I have seen a large part of the most popular or devoted photographers' photographs over time and of course I can say that most of them have speculated on different situations, angles of photography, shadows, different brightness, feelings, human tragedies, all kinds of paradoxical situations that of course make them noticed. I do not want to bring any name into question for the simple reason that each photographic artist has a unique value. However, I regard the photographic art as a simple spectator that is difficult to be convince most of the times. I contemplate the creation of God and every time I photograph I do not forget how grateful we should be for all the beauty that our Creator gave it to us! People who forget this do nothing but hate themselves and the world they live in and photography is nothing but a mirror of this beautiful or crooked world.(Horia Stanicel)
*Nu aparatul foto sau tehnica este importantă în arta fotografică, ci înțelegerea lucrurilor care stau în spatele subiectelor fotografiate,emoția, compoziția, bucuria sau tristețea, viața însăși care vine tainic irepetabil ca un dar.
(Horia Stanicel)
*Am văzut o mare parte a fotografiilor celor mai populari sau consacrați artiști fotografi de-a lungul timpului și desigur pot spune că majoritatea dintre ei au speculat diversele situații,unghiuri de fotografiere, umbre, luminozitati diferite,sentimente,tragedii umane chiar,tot felul de situații paradoxale care desigur să-i facă remarcați.Nu vreau să aduc vreun nume în discuție pentru simplul motiv că fiecare artist fotograf are o valoare unică. Totuși eu privesc arta fotografică ca un simplu spectator greu de convins de cele mai multe ori.Eu contemplu creația lui Dumnezeu și de fiecare dată când fotografiez nu uit cât de recunoscători ar trebui să fim pentru toată frumusețea pe care Creatorul nostru ne-a daruit-o! Oamenii care uită aceasta nu fac decât să se urâțească pe ei înșiși dar și lumea în care trăiesc iar fotografia nu este decât o oglindă a acestei lumi frumoase sau urâțite.
(Horia Stanicel)