View allAll Photos Tagged techniques
so i was messing around with my own stuff + mulletgod's actions (thanks MG, these are gems, freebies, too god to pass up and not play with! www.mulletgod.org/photoshopactions/ ) and using ghostbones' texture atop them (thanks ghostbones! www.flickr.com/photos/ghostbones/ ) . i decided to do a crazy ps method and used the color range method to select parts of my photo and then dragged them to the texture. sort of fun. obviously wouldn't work for every image but nevermind that. feels old timey to me. almost faux platinotype, eh?
The matte painting (which can be translated with painting backgrounds) is a technique used mainly in film used to allow the representation of landscapes or places otherwise too costly or impossible to reconstruct or reach directly.
Visit www.facebook.com/Maurizio-Poli-760405867422348/
Ask for a preventive in my virtual shop at the site mobiliperufficio.com/Maurizio_Poli/home
Richiedete un preventico nel mio negozio virtuale al sito mobiliperufficio.com/Maurizio_Poli/home
Came up with this variant when I wanted to extend the one in black/white and realized it didn't work. The distance changed - to the better. Now I can fit 1x1 bricks and two cheese slopes and the stress is almost gone.
The technique is implemented in this MOC: www.flickr.com/photos/eiffelben/6197444089/in/set-7215762...
A second brick wall technique. This one is perhaps a bit less useful than the previous ones, but I figured it was still worth posting. Please let me know if you've seen this before!
Rather than placing distance between individual "bricks" as most wall techniques do, I wanted to know what would happen if the bricks were differentiated by depth instead. Here, the individual bricks in the wall are constructed using 1x2 plates with horizontal bar and 1x2 tiles. These are connected to headlight bricks or 1x1 bricks with stud on one side via robot hands, wich allows for the individual bricks to be placed at varying depths. In this example, I used three different depths with differences of roughly 1/4 of a plate (or 2 LDU). It is a rather piece intensive technique, but it yields an interesting texture and is fairly sturdy overall.
I have a couple more techniques left to post! I may not be able to maintain my one-a-day schedule for these last ones, but I hope I'll be able to post them soon.
Technique Week II | Technique Week I
Also, if you're like me and happen to have a lot of 1x2 plates with horizontal bar on hand, here's another brick wall technique that has a lot of cool possibilities, and here's a floor technique using these wonderful pieces as well.
Photographed at Farmington Bay WMA, Utah
This Kestrel is exhibiting a behavior I rarely see. Several hunting techniques are used by the American Kestrel. It will hover over one spot, when prey is sighted the bird will partly fold its wings and drop lower once or several times before striking. When the prey disappears the falcon will glide in a semicircle before turning back into the wind to hover again. More often, the kestrel hunts from elevated perch sites, waiting for prey to move on the ground. The Kestrel bobs its head and pumps its tail just before attacking. I've seen this behavior numerous times with the bird returning to its perch with a meal. I shot this image shortly after taking the one below. The bird was unsuccessful in obtaining prey on this occasion.
Kind of obvious really, since they're really just 2x2 plates, but I think they look neat. Repeating the pattern, mudguard end to end, is not as easy. If someone has a solution, I'd like to see it.
infrapinklizard has a great solution for this here.
Some wanted to see how I made the hood on my Regal T class London bus (www.flickr.com/photos/94645638@N07/16486834234/) so here it is. It's nothing special and there have been others who used this technique before.
Edit:
I think I first saw this idea used by [https://www.flickr.com/photos/35385165@N05/]'s Morgan, so credit goes to her.
Netherlands, Rotterdam, the “Markthal” or “Koopboog”, the market hall, is a 175 million € residential- & office building with a market hall underneath, located near the central station. The building opened in October 2014. The grey nature stone Market Hall building complex structure in a horseshoe-tunnel shape houses 228 apartments, 4600 m2 retail space, 1600 m2 “horeca”, an abbreviation of the words Hotel/Restaurant/Café & an underground 4-storey parking garage with a capacity for more than 1000 cars.
The building has a glass facade on both sides, these are made up of smaller glass windows. All of these are hung around a structure of steel cables, 34 metres high & 42 metres wide, it the largest glass-window cable structure in Europe. Each facade has 26 vertical & 22 horizontal cables.
The football area-sized indoor market area is an experience with100 fresh produce sellers with fresh fish, meat, vegetable stalls, delicatessens flowers & plants, 15 food shops & 8 restaurants, …a great place for foodies
The inside of the building, covering the market hall, is adorned with an 11.000 m2 artwork by Arno Coenen, named 2Hoorn des Overvloeds”, horn of plenty. The artwork shows strongly enlarged fruits, vegetables, seeds, fish, flowers & insects & selected out of 9 international candidates. The work was made using digital 3D-techniques, this gigantic file of almost 1,5 terabytes needed special servers, these are also used by Pixar Studios for making animated movies. The digital 3D-animation was separated in 4000 pieces & then printed on 4000 perforated aluminium panels.
👉 One World one Dream,
...Danke, Xièxie 谢谢, Thanks, Gracias, Merci, Grazie, Obrigado, Arigatô, Dhanyavad, Chokrane to you & over
9 million visits in my photostream with countless motivating comments
Split markets are unique places like in any typical Mediterranean city. It would be quite impossible to imagine Split without its fish and open green markets. Split outdoor markets are still popular and frequented, despite many new supermarkets and shopping malls opened over the years.
For Free Tutorial Video Lesson about "How to edit in Photoshop a beautiful Landscape" follow the link below. It's a series of basic technique I'm sharing over my youtube channel. Sooner, the new series of Advanced Cityscape and Landscape technique will be available.
www.youtube.com/channel/UCZCoqqjpe-Q-JlbBDjrag7A?view_as=...
For Lightroom Preset click here:
sellfy.com/mmichelerinaldi/p/godv9e/
Instagram: shorturl.at/delvM
Shutterstock: shorturl.at/mzHL1
Adobe Stock: shorturl.at/hrAX2
PicFair: shorturl.at/bBSU9
500px: shorturl.at/twHJ9
Etsy Marketplace: shorturl.at/htFIN
EyeEm: shorturl.at/ejHM3
Collaboration: mmichelerinaldi@gmail.com
Technique: I found this little caterpillar on a flower, and shot it at my patio table with an artificial flower in the background.
Tech Specs: Canon 70D (F11, 1/250, ISO 100) + a Canon MP-E 65mm macro lens (4x) + a diffused MT-24EX. This is a single, uncropped, frame taken hand held.
A revolutionary technique of expression because it relates to time in an absolutely special way; the image, with its multiple meanings, can only be found if it exists in the photographer before it is fixed on film and must then be reconquered when it becomes an image to look at. A search within a search, a continuous collection of moments for the moment which in the photographic moment will be fixed forever.
~ Kamir
P.S. Non-HDR-processed / Non-GND-filtered ● Black Card Technique 黑卡作品
I mean technically day 7, but I was really busy yesterday and couldn't post anything.
This one I didn't come up with entirely on my own. It's based on this tree technique by Stuart Kahler, now buried in the depths of Mocpages. It was posted all the way back in 2011, but somehow never came into common practice despite being a brilliant idea. It is based on flipping stacks of grass stalks upside-down and connecting them in a cone shape to create a realistic conifer texture. The technique is excellent, but it is very uniform, so to make it more irregular/organic, instead of constructing the cone with hidden hinges I connected six stacks of grass stalks to a center piece consisting of two more grass stalks using 1x1 flower pieces. Further stacks of grass stalks can be connected to the first six in a similar fashion, theoretically allowing for endless downward expansion as long as solid support structures are present and the connections at the top hold out against gravity. I don't know how big you can go before gravity wins out because I don't have enough pieces to try it out, but I suspect that some pretty big trees can be constructed this way.
As I said, do note that I didn't come up with this all on my own. In fact, one of the comments on the original 2011 post has a suggestion for a similar modification, though I've never seen it put into practice. So consider this particular post more of a publicity boost.
I still have one more technique left! It's my favorite of the bunch so I'll try to get it up soon.
I've also used this technique in an actual build, unlike most of my other ones. You can see it in action here.
The matte painting (which can be translated with painting backgrounds) is a technique used mainly in film used to allow the representation of landscapes or places otherwise too costly or impossible to reconstruct or reach directly.
Visit www.facebook.com/Maurizio-Poli-760405867422348/
Ask for a preventive in my virtual shop at the site mobiliperufficio.com/Maurizio_Poli/home
Richiedete un preventico nel mio negozio virtuale al sito mobiliperufficio.com/Maurizio_Poli/home
Daybreak in San Francisco
This is my biggest panorama project so far. My computer was running for quite a bit tor process all files. A total of 13 images has been stiched in order to obtain this 87,5MP San Francisco Skyline panorama.
Technique: f/8,0 t: 8,0 sec. ISO:100 focal length: 35mm (Nikon D7000 APS-C 1,5 crop)
Postprocessing:
Lightroom LR 3.6, NIK Color Efex 4.0 and Phostoshop CS4
Another shot from the stunning sunset on Saturday evening, taken at Long Reef - one of my favourite locations (a headland which sticks out into the ovean, with a marine reserve around it and a golf course on top of it!)
This one comprises 7 portrait orientation shots stitched to a panorama in Photoshop.
7 Days of Shooting - Starts with L - Technique Tuesday
Hello everybody :)
Today I want to show you a wall technique I explored while sorting my parts. It´s only made out of suitcases and some clip vertical parts. Moreover it´s also possible to make some variation by using next to the dark bluish gray suitcases some in dark gray. It´s quite a stable design and a decent alternative to the walls made out ot the "hammer" parts.
Thanks for watching :)
As requested, here is an image of the round tower technique I've been using recently.
The two bricks + two plates stack out from the tracks means the tiles interlace perfectly on the outside layer of bricks.
Firstly Happy new year to all of you!!! For me 2011 in terms of photography was all about starting out, learning the techniques from magazines, books, websites, other peoples photos etc and then practicing them for the first time. So 2011 was more revolution (as in prior to 2011 i wasn't interested in photography, mainly for the lack of a camera which is pretty important to photography :P), this will hopefully mean 2012 will be more evolution where i can start to develop maybe a style that suits me.
So the first photo I post for 2012 is carrying on with the same theme of the shots I got at Dawlish, long exposure black and white photography. Which I have quickly become a fan off, mind you this is not to see I have waved goodbye to colour as I'm currently processing the pictures of the sunset I witnessed while in Bournemouth after I got these shots. So throughout 2012 expect to see much more B&W long exposure stuff but also hopefully plenty of colour shots to.
Anyway thats all im going to say for now, so enjoy :)
Random Note: Keep Clear Of THE Groynes would make more sense but I wrote it how the sign wrote it, no particular reason :P
Website:
Setup shot for this polaroid photo. Home Depot light and aluminum foil reflector. I only shoot with the high budget stuff!
Not sure if it’s been shared by others. This is a simple SNOT technique that has small footprint and is quite stable.
Just posted the tutorial for my stonework technique from Gardar's Cloth Goods on Brickbuilt!
Tutorials | Creations | Featured Tutorials | Build Logs | Commissions
I used my 50mm lens for this one. I’ve been using it a lot lately, because I can get a nice, sharp focus with it. Then it was heavily cropped to get the macro effect. I have a 105mm and I love to take macros, but I’ve been having trouble getting good focus with the 105mm because with the longer focal length I’ve found I need a steadier hand, and I just can’t hold the camera still enough. And I’m very lazy when it comes to using a tripod! So I’ve been using the nifty fifty and cropping. I experimented with different apertures and liked this one using F/6.3 the best.
52 Weeks in 2016 - Week 30 - Theme: Prime Lens Challenge - Category: Technique
#12 for 100 Flowers Group
ODC Lots and Lots of Color
116 Pictures in 2016 - Theme No. 81 - Nature’s Jewels or Nature’s Miracles
With all the new parts and techniques gained, I think it’s time for an update! The model is now a lot stronger and sleeker with the addition of front landing gear and a new stand for more display options!
This build is also kicking off my YouTube channel making it my first official video. If you want to see my builds in video format, check out my channel!
Note: This is a three image series.
Nocturnal animals, leopards are active at night when they venture out in search for food. They spend their days mostly resting, camouflaged in the trees or hiding in caves. (Source: National Geographic)
One common hunting technique is to wait on an overhanging branch and then drop down on their unsuspecting prey, which beats having to chase them for hundreds of yards!
PLEASE, NO invitations or self promotions, THEY WILL BE DELETED. My photos are FREE to use, just give me credit and it would be nice if you let me know, thanks.
A painting and be titled 2015, mixed technique.
Couldn't wait to try this...I LOVED Tami's and Jennifer's cards so much!!
I used Hero Hues chalk for the background though as I wanted the wording to show through....
Can't wait to get more stamps I can do this with!!!
Vendo matte painting visualizzabili su www.flickr.com/photos/polimaurizio/,
a 20 euro l'uno con firma e numero di serie e dimensioni originali.
Per eventuali chiarimenti mi potete contattare all^ email maurizio.poli1972@libero.it.
Per qualsiasi informazione contattatemi all e-mail maurizio.poli1972@libero.it
New.....Matte Painting....... progetti grafici realizzati da me....!!!
Piccole modifiche dell'immagine in post-produzione......!!!
Ask for a preventive in my virtual shop at the site mobiliperufficio.com/Maurizio_Poli/home
Richiedete un preventivo nel mio negozio virtuale al sito mobiliperufficio.com/Maurizio_Poli/home
The matte painting (which can be translated with painting backgrounds) is a technique used mainly in film used to allow the representation of landscapes or places otherwise too costly or impossible to reconstruct or reach directly.
Visit www.facebook.com/Maurizio-Poli-760405867422348/
Ask for a preventive in my virtual shop at the site mobiliperufficio.com/Maurizio_Poli/home
Richiedete un preventico nel mio negozio virtuale al sito mobiliperufficio.com/Maurizio_Poli/home
Alright, just like others on Flickr, I’ve been asked how I get my HDR image to pop the way they do. Well, while in Baltimore I used my handy Flip Video to show you how simple my setup is.
Here is the link to me in Baltimore freezing my butt off, showing off the simple technique of shooting a rental car with 9 exposures. (don't mind the bags under my eyes... that's jetlag and aging for ya)
Okay, I shoot 9 exp because... well, my D200 can do it. It's digital and free. Now I typically take one shot. A test shot, with my metering on the largest matrix mode there is, to get an overall average of the scene's exposure. Plus with going further + and -, you cover more of the tonal range, so hopefully that contributes to a better overall final image.
But before I do that, I still need to find a shot that is interested and well composed on it’s own. Okay, got one? That was easy.
I use a tripod and remote trigger on Ch (high speed shutter) to snap all the shots at once. But take a single shot first to make sure the MAIN SUBJECT looks properly exposed.
If the mid-range looks to be exposed properly, then I'll know that it's what I want. Now I shoot 9 exp at 1stop intervals. Thus, if my scene normally would be shot at 1/60th, that means I'll be capturing the tonal range from +/- 4stops. There is a better chance that I'll get exposures of the darkest areas and brightest areas that way. So:
1/60, 1/1250, 1/640, 1/320, 1/160, 1/40, 1/20, 1/10, 1/5
So right there that covers more range and thus get more tonal coverage.
But that's only the tip of the ice cream. Now is time to get the images on the computer and process them.
Here is a quick 10 minute video on how I process the images with Photomatix and then Photoshop CS3
So in Photomatix, I roughly use these settings:
Strength: 100
Saturation: 100
Light Smoothing: (either the 4th or 5th button) this has a dramatic effect on your overall image
Luminosity: Usually 10. Less = more halo affect on horizon, but does work better with the 4th Light Smoothing button.
Play around with these the most, as they will influence your image the most.
Tone:
white: 100
black: 100
Gamma: between 1.40 and 1.15
Color:
Temperature: between -2 and 4
Saturation Highlights: 10
Saturation Shadows: 10
Micro:
Micro-contrast: 10 (love me a good contrast)
Micro-smoothing: 5-30 (30 being smooth, 5 being pretty dramatic, but also lots of noise in the sky)
S/H:
Highlight Smoothing: 0
Shadow Smoothing: 0
Shadow Clipping: 0 unless I want some areas dark
Process. Save.
Once I get my photo into CS3, I take my time to dodge/burn the photo so all those little weird dark areas that Photomatix creates are all evened out. Once it's all even... ready for this, I:
Create a dupe layer
change it to: SCREEN (which makes it really bright)
adjust it to about.. I dunno, 30% or so until it looks properly exposed
Then flatten
Then use DODGE/BURN to even out the exposure and any areas that appear too dark/light
Create another dupe layer
change it to: SOFT or HARD light to exaggerate the colors a bit
adjust it appropriately.
Flatten
Once I do that, I might use the SPONGE tool to either saturate or desaturate the colors so it's even on the photo.
Now for the sky, if I want crazy clouds or colors, I use a magic wand or something to select the sky and thencreate another layer.
open up OPTIKVERVE'S VIRTUAL PHOTOGRAPHER and go through some of the presets in there. My personal favorites are:
Photocopy
Radiant
Landscape
Etc. Then I apply it, and adjust my layer, between 20 and 80%, depending on how much it changes the image
LARGE VERSION for educational purposes only.
That's about it really. There might be other things I do, but I always dodge/burn to even out the shadows and highlights. While the colors are vivid, I don't like things looking too crazy... usually.