View allAll Photos Tagged strobe
My strobe controller project finally got soldered up in a nice project case. In short, it's a programmable strobe controller for high-speed photography. You can load it with simple scripts to (usually) wait for a certain input condition, and then switch the outputs with very precise timing.
One particularly elaborate example: Have it trigger an electronic water valve for a few milliseconds, just long enough to let one drop of water through. Wait until it sees a drop fall through a photogate, and then open the shutter on the camera. Wait until the contact mic under a bowl is triggered by the drop impacting on the bowl, fire the flash, wait a few milliseconds, and then close the shutter on the camera. Perfect water drop pictures every time.
I bought a Koala protoboard, a matching case, and a compatible LiPoly battery from Sparkfun, plus a whole bunch of 3.5mm headphone jacks and some other odds and ends from JB Saunders, and soldered it up last weekend.
The board is pretty cool- it comes with USB-serial (an FTDI FT232R, regulated 3.3V and 5V from battery or USB, and battery charging from USB. The battery is tucked under the board.
Everything is wired into a TI EZ430-RF2500 target board (I really only wanted the MSP430-F2274 micro on it; the wireless is going to waste at the moment). It communicates with a desktop app I've written in C#, where you can see and control its status in real-time, write scripts, and send them to the device. I've created a simple little scripting language (and corresponding bytecode language) so the device can do interesting and precisely-timed things with its outputs (the five jacks on bottom) in reaction to stuff happening on its inputs (the button and the two other jacks). It needs some polish still, but it really works quite well.
I'll do a proper writeup on my website when I'm closer to being truly done.
This was pure guesswork. I'm on a continuing quest to eliminate the orange cast from shots using artificial light, thought it'd be worth a go to use Calethia's strobe light, see what happened.
Seeming simple enough, of course it took twice as long as we'd expected, with both of us blind from firing off the strobe dozens of times to get the shot framed right, timed right. For awhile all we could see were afterimages of each other, and we stumbled around the room trying to shake it off.
But it worked! Yeah gods, it worked. So if anybody's got a huge studio light they'd like to part with, feel more than free to drop me a line.
BRIGHT LIGHT! BRIGHT LIGHT!
1x Bare Strobe NikonSB-600 - camera Left - Triggered with Nikon SC-17 Coiled Sync Cord. 1/2500 - f/11 - ISO/640 with ND filter. Trying out the leaf shutter on the #RicohGR
Taken with a single Cactus RF60 flash & V6. Mode used, Multi Flash (Multi Strobe).
(RF60) Power = 1/16, number of flashes = 10, Hz = 8, Zoom = 24
(X-Pro1) Shutter = 1 sec, aperture = f/7.1, ISO = 200
Portable studio.
- Vivitar 285VH strobes
- Promaster LS-2 light stands
- Photoflex shoe mount multiclamps
- Westcott 32" white umbrellas with black covers
- Paramount cords
- DIY household cables
A full description can be found here.
Another feature that the Vela flash has is a strobe mode. It can put out up to six flashes spaced from 10 to 250usec. Years ago I spent a lot of time making a deal delay flash controller that would fire my two microflash units in sequence with an adjustable delay. I never found a good photo to make with the set-up so I moved on.
Part of the issue is that you get the best results by using a non-reflective background because as the action moves the light from consecutive strobes will bleach out the earlier exposure making the objects look like ghosts.
So for this photograph I set up a hefty razor blade and shot a small lead ball at the blade. You can see how the impact torqued the blade and you can clearly see how the lead ball is cut neatly into two slices that fly apart.
The flash duration is 2usec and the separation is a guess at about 150usec.
I used my new D750 for this shot because it has much lower noise compared to the 5D Mk II.
This is the same stupid shot done with a microflash.
www.flickr.com/photos/8763834@N02/8553348754/in/album-721...
A third hot weekend in store. It's getting very old.
Cheers.
This was a particularly challenging event for me, as it was more of a photo booth set-up. I was set up in a small corner, with no ambient light (which I was fine with), but they had a backdrop all ready, with stars dangling from the ceiling.
I had to set up one lighting set-up that could be used for single people, couples, and multiple people. If all that wasn't challenging enough, there were props as well. It was very dark, and very loud in the building, which made things even worse for trying to pose, or position people.
Overall, it was a great even, and I think I got some good portraits out of it.
Strobist info:
24x36 softbox set up camera right, at about eye level, set at 1/2 power
Second strobe set up to camera left being shot though a reflective silver umbrella, with power set up to 1/4 power just above eye level.
Third strobe set up sitting on floor, set to 1/128 power just to fill in shadows from props specifically.
Had a Photoshop class with Tim Buerger today.
Worked on some of the photos I did in a previous strobe lesson in Minato Mirai, Yokohama. Now it feels like the lesson is complete... from the shooting to the post-production.
I was never a huge fan of flashes and non-natural light but I really like the results of this class... time to practice!
Model: Tim Buerger
Two tone gold bangle bracelet done with beautiful Spiratone Anastigmat 150mm F4.5 Mount Bellows Lens and Sony camera. Used one light source with the mirrors
Set Up _ 2 strob with square softbox in front of model, 2 strob with square softbox in side of model for sidelight & 1 more strob with square softbox in the back for background.
Model is Stephy
Strobist info...
2 x Elinchrom D-Lite 2 flash heads (200w).
Camera front Right with Soft box was set up to achieve correct exposure at F11, 1/125s and ISO100/
Camera left with small soft box was used for fill lights (set to F8)
Epa, my new muse.
Portable strobe (Nikon SB-26 Speedlight) diffuses with a translucent umbrella on a light stand mix with ambient light.
ISO 200, shutter speed 1/250s, aperture f5.6
I have to work quick as 'The Golden Hour' in tropical Malaysia only last minutes!
YN560 on tree pointed on head, SB900 with BD camera right above the head, D700, ISO 200, 85mm, f8, 1/125, mounted of 2 RAW files to bring out a bit details in greens. Thanks for visit!
"All of the light
Strobe light, flash light, hard light
Soft light, diffused light
All of the light"
Strobist Info:
Yongnuo YN560-II camera left, Yongnuo YN560-II camera right and the star of the show, Hvl-f43am.
Hope you are all having a great Tuesday.
Thanks for the comments and visit.
1 strobe to background.
1 strobe from above-right.
1 white reflector left.
Edit with photoshop.(overlay 3 layers with scrathes)
First time shooting with my own, Sam wasn't around since he was still living in Van, so I rocked out by myself. I didnt do too bad I think, let me know what I can improve on though.
And sorry if people are still actually following this stream, I'll be uploading more now I promise!
Mr. Hobby"s DIY studio in a cardboard box. :) Strobe left, reflector right, reflector top, strobe behind subject.
- 2 Nikon SB-80DX flash triggered by 2 Pocket Wizard Plus II
- First flash at full power | Zoom 85 mm | Shoot bounce reflective umbrella | Placed on the left over the subject
- Second flash at 1/8 power | Zoom 108 mm | Shoot bounce circular reflector disc | Placed on the right of the subject on the ground
Set Up _ 2 strob with square softbox in front of model, 2 strob with square softbox in side of model for sidelight & 1 more strob with square softbox in the back for background.
This is my extremely professional studio lighting on-location. The $139 Flashpoint R2 on-camera flash travels well. I only use the flash on manual mode taking a few test shots to find and match the ambient light then I'll crank up the flash power a couple notches to make the subjects pop.
All wearing black, Ha!
Two Bowens GM200 situated behind white sheet BEHIND the set. They are pointing into each other. There is a piece of foamcore on camera left blocking the path of light to the camera. On the right is a large piece of polystyrene. To camera left of the set is a single Canon 540EZ with diffuser and warm up gel pointing away and at 128th.