View allAll Photos Tagged strobe
Portable studio.
- Vivitar 285VH strobes
- Promaster LS-2 light stands
- Photoflex shoe mount multiclamps
- Westcott 32" white umbrellas with black covers
- Paramount cords
- DIY household cables
A full description can be found here.
I'm loving the Ektar 100 in medium format, and I'm enjoying the workflow too…the images are almost finished when they come back from the lab. Less slaving, more shooting. I don't enjoy the anxiety that comes with each roll of film, but I'll get over that.
Equipment: Bronica ETR-s 645 format camera, 75mm f/2.8 lens. I shot this at f/5.6 or f/8, not sure. DOF is right on the edge, as the dogs are not that sharp (since they're closer to the camera).
One strobe: Metz Mecablitz 60, camera left. Set to who knows what.
Procedure: First I framed my shot, handholding the camera. I wanted the trees lined up properly, not too much sky etc. Then I set the camera on the tripod. I used my incident meter to get a reading at the subjects' position (pointing back toward the camera), to see what the ambient was in the shade. Let's assume I picked f/8 and whatever the shutter speed was, probably 1/15. That's my ambient, but I want to lower that a stop and use it as fill, so I bump my shutter speed up to 1/30 so I'm underexposing by a stop. And hey it's film, so the highlights in the back, who cares? They're not going to blow out. "Analog HDR" is what I'm shooting here.
I set my light in position - using just the one light, since ambient is providing significant fill. (And I can't fill those trees in the distance, so I don't want the ambient to be *too* dark). I check my strobe with the flash meter and make sure it's f/8. Key is established, fill is established, and let the background fall where it may.
I could have just shot it as is, but I chimped it with a dSLR to make sure the light was in the right position. You can meter light intensity, but you can't meter light "pleasantness". Turns out I didn't have to change a thing, because I'd metered properly.
Oh yeah, CyberSync triggers and a 43" shoot-through umbrella.
model Elisabeth
studio meet up
coordinator Alex Salvador
gracias a Eli, Alex y los compañeros de Kddas Catalanas.
oh and forgot massive D.A. shame on me :-)
My strobe controller project finally got soldered up in a nice project case. In short, it's a programmable strobe controller for high-speed photography. You can load it with simple scripts to (usually) wait for a certain input condition, and then switch the outputs with very precise timing.
One particularly elaborate example: Have it trigger an electronic water valve for a few milliseconds, just long enough to let one drop of water through. Wait until it sees a drop fall through a photogate, and then open the shutter on the camera. Wait until the contact mic under a bowl is triggered by the drop impacting on the bowl, fire the flash, wait a few milliseconds, and then close the shutter on the camera. Perfect water drop pictures every time.
I bought a Koala protoboard, a matching case, and a compatible LiPoly battery from Sparkfun, plus a whole bunch of 3.5mm headphone jacks and some other odds and ends from JB Saunders, and soldered it up last weekend.
The board is pretty cool- it comes with USB-serial (an FTDI FT232R, regulated 3.3V and 5V from battery or USB, and battery charging from USB. The battery is tucked under the board.
Everything is wired into a TI EZ430-RF2500 target board (I really only wanted the MSP430-F2274 micro on it; the wireless is going to waste at the moment). It communicates with a desktop app I've written in C#, where you can see and control its status in real-time, write scripts, and send them to the device. I've created a simple little scripting language (and corresponding bytecode language) so the device can do interesting and precisely-timed things with its outputs (the five jacks on bottom) in reaction to stuff happening on its inputs (the button and the two other jacks). It needs some polish still, but it really works quite well.
I'll do a proper writeup on my website when I'm closer to being truly done.
This was pure guesswork. I'm on a continuing quest to eliminate the orange cast from shots using artificial light, thought it'd be worth a go to use Calethia's strobe light, see what happened.
Seeming simple enough, of course it took twice as long as we'd expected, with both of us blind from firing off the strobe dozens of times to get the shot framed right, timed right. For awhile all we could see were afterimages of each other, and we stumbled around the room trying to shake it off.
But it worked! Yeah gods, it worked. So if anybody's got a huge studio light they'd like to part with, feel more than free to drop me a line.
BRIGHT LIGHT! BRIGHT LIGHT!
Manual, 28mm, 1/500, F5, ISO100. Processed JPG in camera (monochrome +Ye). Cropped in Aperture. Strobe (Sunpack 266D) triggered with Cactus v4 wireless trigger.
Another feature that the Vela flash has is a strobe mode. It can put out up to six flashes spaced from 10 to 250usec. Years ago I spent a lot of time making a deal delay flash controller that would fire my two microflash units in sequence with an adjustable delay. I never found a good photo to make with the set-up so I moved on.
Part of the issue is that you get the best results by using a non-reflective background because as the action moves the light from consecutive strobes will bleach out the earlier exposure making the objects look like ghosts.
So for this photograph I set up a hefty razor blade and shot a small lead ball at the blade. You can see how the impact torqued the blade and you can clearly see how the lead ball is cut neatly into two slices that fly apart.
The flash duration is 2usec and the separation is a guess at about 150usec.
I used my new D750 for this shot because it has much lower noise compared to the 5D Mk II.
This is the same stupid shot done with a microflash.
www.flickr.com/photos/8763834@N02/8553348754/in/album-721...
A third hot weekend in store. It's getting very old.
Cheers.
(Setup shot: see "Sponge Cake Setup", it is exactly the same)
Bring your own light! This was a test for the minimal light setup: One speedlite, behind a folded piece of paper as diffusor, placed in the upper left corner. One folded piece of paper as reflector, in the lower right corner (see comments in the image). Lense: Canon EF 50mm f/1.8.
This was shot during a photo session with Shabugi in the Sushi Circle in Karlsruhe. Thanks again to the staff there for letting us using strobelight in the restaurant (btw.: the sushi was delish!).
Studio shoot with this lovely young woman who was celebrating her birthday!
The studio set-up here included a strobe in softbox angled on her left about face level; strobe in softbox on her right angled a bit higher and two continuous lights on white backdrop to get high key effect. Strobes were triggered with Pocketwizard TT5.
I am doing a car's for a week. I really like this, vivitar 285 under glass at full with red gel. Vivitar 283 add 3/4 power bouncing off slanted wall.
Shooting info: Dynalite MH2050 strobe shot through MOLA white Euro 33.5" camera left. . Triggered by Pocketwizards.
Stylist: Wilford Sanchez for Galeana Designs
Model: Vanessa Michelle
Makeup/Hairstylist: Chelsey Merril, Joanna Lopez
From a Thanksgiving several years ago where my father-in-law and I found some colored glass to use as flash gels and a pie plate to splish water in. Splooshing it to the max!
Headed over to Eastern MI this weekend to hang out with this couple on their wedding day.
A red water balloon at the moment it bursts. I used a green gel over the strobe on the left and a yellow gel over the strobe on the right to give an iridescent kind of effect. I like the line around the middle of the water created by the balloon whipping away, making a kind of groove in the surface.
Sort of a setup shot with Sylwia, but I kind of like it on its own.
Resulting image here.
Check the notes!
Had a Photoshop class with Tim Buerger today.
Worked on some of the photos I did in a previous strobe lesson in Minato Mirai, Yokohama. Now it feels like the lesson is complete... from the shooting to the post-production.
I was never a huge fan of flashes and non-natural light but I really like the results of this class... time to practice!
Model: Tim Buerger
Two tone gold bangle bracelet done with beautiful Spiratone Anastigmat 150mm F4.5 Mount Bellows Lens and Sony camera. Used one light source with the mirrors
Set Up _ 2 strob with square softbox in front of model, 2 strob with square softbox in side of model for sidelight & 1 more strob with square softbox in the back for background.
From recent slackline photoshoot
Strobist:
sb-600 in softbox high at 5 o'clock position
sb-28 bare low at 10 o'clock position
285HV bare high at 2 o'clock position
Tribute to Albert Anker.
Girl in traditional Bernese garb with field flowers.
The light set is inspired by painters Albert Anker and Jan Vermeer.
To improve the effect of the soft light from the window i added a flash in a softbox.
Strobist Info:
- D610 PopUP - Master:---
- Yongnuo YN-568 EX, CL in SMDV-Softbox 70cm, group A: M x 1/8
strobe controlled and fired with Nikon CLS & AWL.
"All of the light
Strobe light, flash light, hard light
Soft light, diffused light
All of the light"
Strobist Info:
Yongnuo YN560-II camera left, Yongnuo YN560-II camera right and the star of the show, Hvl-f43am.
Hope you are all having a great Tuesday.
Thanks for the comments and visit.
YN560 on tree pointed on head, SB900 with BD camera right above the head, D700, ISO 200, 85mm, f8, 1/125, mounted of 2 RAW files to bring out a bit details in greens. Thanks for visit!