View allAll Photos Tagged strobe
Finally I got my new uw strobes, dual INON Z-240 Type 3.
Still waiting for the cable to test them though. :(
However, I'm very happy and excited about new results which these strobes would bring. :)
My attempt at automotive lighting with strobes :)
Used a 580ex II at 1/4 power and ran around car lol. Only got to try it 3 times before the flash batteries died... note to self - RECHARGE beforehand!
Not to sure about the drums in the foreground, maybe better if they were on fire?
Model: Danica Torres
HMUA: Pinoygraphers (Leslie)
Lingerie: Danica Torres
Location: Orchid Country Club, Singapore
Organized by: P.O.P.s
Photographer: Ed Bas
This poster was made for one of my fall semester classes. We had to choose a digital artist, and then make a poster of our favorite artist/song combination to mimic that artist's style.
The artist I chose was Paul Tebbott, but I pretty much ended up completely diverging from that style by the end of the piece. The artist is deadmau5 (favorite electronic artist ever) and the song is strobe. I hope you guys like it!
Playing around with some new stuff from Rosco... the gel people.
This is my first attempt at putting one of the Rosco 3" gobos to use for strobist-style photography. I started by just putting the gobo in front of the strobe and got pretty much what I expected: either a blurry image or a tiny image. It was blurrier with the gobo closer to the flash and tinier, but sharper with the gobo closer to the paper background. Adding a Fresnel lens between the gobo and the paper background allowed me to focus the image on the background and create some pretty cool effects. Since this was a fire patterned gobo, I threw a red gel from the Strobist Gel Collection on the strobe for some extra color.
A DIY strobe made from parts laying around.
Comparison shot against a (balancing) Sony HVL-42 set to 105mm.
No bells or whistles. Just two power levels and a variable 120Hz strobe mode.
I really should put together something better, but since I bought a few YN640's...
Under-lit the centre section of the car, but I'm still pleased with the final image.
STROBIST INFO: Single Sony HVL-F42AM fired 3 Times In slave mode for separate exposures and layered in Paint-shop Pro.
Nikon D7000 + Nikkor 85mm f1.4 D IF Lens
Strobist info: Nikon SU-800 as wireless speedlight commander. Nikon SB-900 with 1/4 CTO gel + 18inch beauty dish camera left as key light. Powered by Nikon's Creative Lighting System.
This is my first time trying the strobe technique....i love the effects and love the way the sky is clear while the model's face is bright enough.....
Its great to learn something new.....will now try to use it more often...
-one strobe thought softbox camera right up above.
-one bare strobe with red gel camera left
-strobe with DIY snoot, in front of subject
All I have really been doing lately is going to school, and working, wether it is at Michaels or Senior Pictures. Its good, but all this money seems to just disappear haha, saving money is hard.
From Kevin Foley's Senior Pictures
Strobist info: D300s on long exposure, subject is exposed by the flash test button on the SB600.
Appart from corpping and colour correction, no Photoshop has been used in creating these.
Imaginative names, I know! Done for the first assignment of January, 2012 in the Advanced Digital Class: Experimenting with Light. This is the Strobe part of the assignment, and my personal favorite of the bunch.
Strudel also has a Facebook page! Go love him! www.facebook.com/pages/Strudel-the-Dachshund/328843200467718
The black PVC fitting with the screw threads fits in the end and the cap holding the strobe screws into it.
Strobe Info:
Octabox (left side of camera, above the model)
Barn Door (left side of camera, slightly behind the model)
Snoot (right side of camera, pointing toward model's hair)
I've been admiring Dustin Diaz's (http://www.flickr.com/photos/polvero/) work on Flickr and decided to venture into the world of strobist. Bought 3 PocketWizard Plus II, Nikon SB-28, Photek Softlighter II, a Manfrotto light stand, and some adapters for the Sony hotshoe.
Strobist: Nikon SB-28 with umbrella on camera left. Triggered by PWs.
just as the title states I finally received my Alienbee's this week and its my first time ever shooting with a strobe. My great friend jared was kind enough to let me shoot his truck quick tonight so that I could somewhat get my bearings before H2Oi.
So even though this shot may be pretty iffy its the first of many! and also my home studio is in its finishing touches so I'm really excited to finally be able to expand my work!
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Camera Info:
Canon 5D Mark II
Sigma 50
Enjoy!
One of the most frequent questions asked to me during my online photo courses is whether it is better to use a flash or a continuous light.
Usually I shoot my still life photos in continuous light, to have an immediate visual control on shades, reflections, etc., so this time I decided to make a shot "a la strobiste".
To have this ugly, uneven light with a lot of sharp shadows I used:
- on the left, a Pentax AF 400 T at 1/25 power (guide number must be 8, according to the manual) at 70 cm;
- on the right, a Philips P32 GTC at 1/4 power (it must have guide number 8, too) at 60 cm, with a kitchen paper diffuser in front of it.
Both the flashes (hammer head type) are mounted on cheap tripods, half a meter higher than the lemons.
To trigger them I used:
- a Chinese radio remote bought on eBay;
- a "1 PC sync male - 2 PC sync females + hot shoe" adapter, bought on eBay, plugged into the remote outlet.
The flash cables, totally stretched, allow me to have 120 cm between the flashes.
The photo is made with a SMC Pentax M 50/1.7 @ f:22... just because the aperture stops there, and I ran out of cable to place farther the flashes.
Some considerations
* Direct naked flash light is ugly, too sharp. Better to use a diffuser or even a sort of "bank" or "lightbox" or whatever it is called by marketroids.
* Flashes are too powerful, and will require more distance from the subject. This means to have a lot of available space to place them in the correct place, at least a couple of meters on each side of the subject, and higher supports (over 2 meters, if you don't want to take your photo on the floor, that is uncomfortable for focusing).
* The lack of a modeling light makes very hard to understand if everything has the right lights, shadows and reflections (and even focus).
* Two flashes often are not enough to have the light everywhere is needed.
* Since high density digital sensors hate the old good narrow apertures (f:45 or f:90 are instead common, on large format) it is better to place a ND filter on the lens to keep the aperture at a level good for the sensor.
* A monobloc strobe with a sturdy support, a good modeling lamp and a lot of tailored accessories can't be replaced with a portable flash, even if this has a lot of sophisticated functions or power.
Conclusions
For beginners who want to shoot small objects continuous lights are better, and don't require expensive accessories (remote triggers, umbrellas, lightbox, supports, etc.).
Anyway, using appropriate (long) exposure times, it is possible to mix strobe light and continuous light, but this is pretty tricky.
Who need fresh lemons can climb my tree: this year I have an overproduction of them.
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Una delle domande che mi vengono poste più frequentemente durante i miei corsi online di fotografia è se è meglio usare un flash o una luce continua.
Di solito scatto le mie nature morte in luce continua, per avere un controllo visivo immediato su ombre, riflessi, ecc., quindi questa volta ho deciso di fare uno scatto "a la strobiste".
Per ottenere questa brutta luce sbilanciata con un mucchio di ombre affilate ho usato:
- sulla sinistra un Pentax AF 400 T a potenza 1/25 (il numero guida è 8, stando al manuale) a 70 cm;
- sulla destra un Philips P32 GTC a potenza 1/4 (dovrebbe essere anche questo a numero guida 8) a 60 cm, con un diffusore in carta da cucina davanti.
Entrambi i flash, a torcia, erano montati su vecchi cavalletti economici, mezzo metro più in alto dei limoni.
Per farli scattare ho usato:
- un radiocomando cinese comprato su eBay;
- un coso "1 PC sync maschio - 2 PC sync femmina + hot shoe", comprato anche quello su eBay, attaccato all'uscita del ricevitore.
I cavi dei flash, totalmente stirati, mi hanno permesso di avere 120 cm tra i flash.
La foto è fatta con un SMC Pentax M 50/1.7 a f:22... solo perché la ghiera dei diaframmi si ferma lì, e non avevo abbastanza cavo per mettere i flash più lontani.
Alcune considerazioni
* La luce diretta e nuda del flash è brutta, troppo cruda. Meglio usare un diffusore o una specie di "bank" o "lightbox" o come accidenti li chiamano i marketroidi.
* I flash sono troppo potenti, e richiederebbero più distanza dal soggetto. Questo vuol dire avere un sacco di spazio disponibile per posizionarli nel posto giusto, almeno un paio di metri su ogni lato del soggetto, e supporti più alti (oltre due metri, se non volete fare le foto sul pavimento, che è scomodo per mettere a fuoco).
* La mancanza di una luce pilota rende estremamente duro capire se tutto ha le giuste luci, ombre e riflessi (ed anche fuoco).
* Due flash spesso non sono abbastanza per avere luce ovunque serva.
* Visto che i sensori digitali ad alta densità odiano i cari vecchi diaframmi molto chiusi (f:45 o f:90 sono invece comuni, nel grande formato) è meglio montare un filtro ND per tenere il diaframma ad un'apertura che vada bene al sensore.
* Un illuminatore monoblocco da studio con un supporto solido, una buona lampada pilota e un mucchio di accessori fatti apposta non può essere sostituito da un flash portatile, anche se quest'ultimo ha un mucchio di funzioni sofisticate o potenza.
Conclusioni
Per i principianti che vogliono fotografare piccoli oggetti la luce continua è meglio, e non richiede costosi accessori (comandi a distanza, ombrelli, lightbox, supporti, ecc.).
Comunque, usando tempi di posa appropriati (lunghi), è possibile mescolare la luce dei flash con la luce continua, ma questo richiede ulteriori astuzie.
Chi volesse dei limoni freschi può arrampicarsi sul mio albero: quest'anno ne ho una sovrapproduzione.
From a recent client session.
Lighting info: Metz Mecablitz 60 in 43" bounce umbrella*, camera left. SB-28 in LumiQuest SoftBox III at camera position as fill. Spot-metered the tree for 2 stops below nominal, then flash-metered the main and fill lights. Chimped with dSLR to check everything. CyberSync radio triggers.
*unlike Señor Strobist, I've decided I don't care for shoot-through umbrellas. They too often generate lens flare because they're not shielded from the lens, and this is not something I can chimp-and-fix with film.
Camera: Mamiya RB67 (6x7 medium format film camera). New Portra 400 film.
Taken at Foster Park, near Ventura, CA.
See more from the shoot here on my blog.
In the spirit of the Strobist site on sharing information & keeping costs low, how about a softbox mount for only £1.48 ;)
I've tested this today with a Canon 580EX plus some Elinchrom Softboxes from my D-Lite 4 setup & it works well :)
Anyway, hope it's of some use to others & apologies in advance if someone has done this before.
Full steps here :- www.davidjameswilliams.com/photography-chat/diy-strobe-mo...
Captured using Sync and Delay, with a microphone sensor and delay of 1.4 ms.
PC: Vincent T, Kiran W, Christina S, Anish P, for MIT 6.163 Fall 2015
Attended the Small Strobes Big Results workshop today. I highly recommend it. Also it should be noted that the lighting in both these shots is by David Tejada and his assistants Erik and Ian. The workshop was well run, had excellent instruction, and helped each and every attendee. Thanks to David, Erik, Ian, and the models Colin and Muschka
Subject: Actor Colin Cheadle
Strobist: ... but it was that super-duper powerful fireball that's free to all on any given sunny day. I've had a lot of people interested in the photos I took of my Canon G10 Waterfield Design camera case, but once they learn that I used 3 strobes, they lost interest in trying it themselves. So I finally took a break from my studies and set up my DIY ultra-cheap soft box for lighting exclusively with the sun to show everyone how easy it is to take these photos. Construction details are in this post.
Thanks to DH & the Strobist Community for teaching all of us how to better illuminate our photos, no matter what the light source is. Kudos to mingthein for the tips, tricks, and inspiration on fine watch photography.
This photo is specifically for folks who look at my photos and think you need a fancy expensive DLSR camera to take nice photos. This photo was taken by my Canon point & shoot camera and you can compare it to the adjacent photos taken by my DSLR.
Watch is resting on a basic black marble tile.
Experimented with shutter drag at a cousin's birthday party.
Main light source was two bare bulb Yongnuo YN560III's on either side of the dance floor, aimed at the ceiling to act as bounce flash. Triggered by Yongnuo RF603c. Shutter speed was set at 1.6 seconds to allow for slight blurring of subjects after the strobes fired, as well as for the colored lights to paint themselves into the shot.