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This was a fun one - The idea was to build Narmoto with as many action features as I could reasonably fit on him. I'm particularly happy with the mechanism for retracting the shoulder launcher.
Multi-color Lake, Jiuzhaigou Valley.
Jiuzhaigou is a nature reserve in northern Sichuan province of China located 3000 m above sea level. It is known for its many multi-level waterfalls and colorful lakes, and was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1992.
Jiuzhaigou, Sichuan province, China. 2006
LENS TEST:
ASAHI OPT. CO. Super-Multi-Coated Takumar 135mm f2.5 (Model 1 bis)
Going home. Portrait of standing by photographer. In the neighborhood, Tokyo, Japan. © Michele Marcolin, 2023. K1ii + smc Takumar 135mm f2.5 (Model 1 bis)
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My new showstopper!
This lens really made my past week... and many more to come!
For personal disaffection, I long avoided 135mm focal lengths, with the only exception of H.I.M. smc Pentax 135mm f1.8 - for obvious reasons. However, last week, out of a bargain I got my hands on an apparently crippled copy of this lens on auction (not really for peanuts this time) with the idea of restoring it and - if possible - selling it immediately after.
Regrettably the unexpected happened: it not only cleaned up effortlessly in no time, but as soon as I mounted it and tested it, I was blown away. As I would read in a review shortly after, I got it: «with the exception of the ridiculously rare and prohibitively priced Pentax-A 135 f1.8, this is as good as it gets for 135mm in the vintage Pentax world». The similitudes of the depiction with H.I.M. 135/1.8 are striking.
The lens was produced in two version between 1965 and 1975. The first one had two variants: an original ‘Super-Takumar’ with 5 lenses in 4 groups, and a second variant, which was named ’Super-Multi-Coated Takumar’, with the first SMC coating. A second model appeared later, in 1972, more sought after because reportedly sharper and more corrected, with the 6 elements in 6 groups - which will pass ‘as such’ into the following smc Pentax 135/2.5 tube; a lens deceivingly named again ‘Super-Multi-Coated Takumar’! Well, the lens I stumbled upon, falls right in the middle of them: model 1 bis, i.e. 5/4 lenses and coating.
How to distinguish ‘model 1 bis’ from ‘model 2’? Just check the numbers on the focus scale before infinity: model 1 displays 30, while model 2 has 35. As simple as that. If you want to be sure, then, you can check the the following:
- serials under the A/M Switch: 43802 vs. 43812
- on DOF scale: ‘diamond’ vs. ‘4’
- 6 blades vs. 8 blades
- weight: 444g vs. 470g
- serial range: 4723512 - 5848208 vs. 6138465 - 8203248
The lens configuration is said to be Ernostar type (yes, they say everything and its opposite… but, hei… Ernostar was the fastest lens in the world at the time, back in 1929; the final f1.8 version gave the model for the Bertele's Sonnar, which he developed in 1931 for Zeiss, the origin of a cascade of designs of lenses packed in three groups… which eventually grew more numerous again later.. but there you can trace the origin of the smooth background blur of these tools).
Anyway, the build quality (all metal) and mechanical operation are excellent: the focus ring travels smooth from the min. focus of about 1.5m and infinity in about 210°, while a clicking aperture goes from F 2.5 to 22. The sharpness is remarkable for the age; good natural color canvas with a slight suppression of yellows and orange tones, giving you a gray-bluish cast. You certainly have some CA and vignette, when used wide open (but that is a no brainer, since otherwise you would not be interested in legacy lenses) and the foreground and background bokes are fantastic. Just like a plasma gun: it melts everything!
It came in mint condition with caps, hood and box!
I've been playing with the reflective and distorting properties of mylar recently. I've found that I really like the look I get if I crumple it up so that it gives me a multi faceted look. Using a strobe I put bright light on to a bunch of colorful objects and photographed the reflection.
Lit with one SB600 and one SB700 both in softboxes. They were in manual mode and were triggered by the pop up flash on my D90 in commander mode.
#AbFav_MULTI_COLOUR_ 📱
They attract me, I detect them, they make me HAPPY...
Why is colour such a powerful force in our lives?
Colours in the red area of the colour spectrum are known as warm and include red, orange, and yellow.
These warm colours evoke emotions ranging from feelings of warmth and comfort to feelings of anger and hostility.
Colours on the blue side of the spectrum are known as cool and include blue, purple, and green.
These colours are often described as calm, but can also call to mind feelings of sadness or indifference.
Symbolic Color Meanings:
Red: Passion, creativity, excitement, love
Pink: Soft, reserved, earthy
Purple: Mysterious, noble, glamorous
Blue: Wisdom, hope, reason, peace
Green: Nature, growth, freshness
Yellow: Hope, joy, danger
Orange: Warmth, kindness, joy
White: Truth, indifference, clean
Black: Noble, mysterious, cold
Medical associations:
Red is used to stimulate the body and mind and to increase circulation.
Yellow is thought to stimulate the nerves and purify the body.
Orange is used to heal the lungs and to increase energy levels.
Blue is believed to soothe illnesses and treat pain.
Indigo shades are thought to alleviate skin problems.
Enjoy a colourful day and thank you for visiting, Magda (*_*)
For more: www.indigo2photography.com
IT IS STRICTLY FORBIDDEN (BY LAW!!!) TO USE ANY OF MY image or TEXT on websites, blogs or any other media without my explicit permission. © All rights reserved
colours, lights, pens, ceiling, potholders, orange, blue, green, red, yellow, green, horizontal, NIKON, "Magda indigo"
Rabbit's barking the carpenters off the property. It's a reliable ritual when they leave at the end of the day. She's friendly with them when they're in the house, but there's something about their big white truck that she doesn't like.
Elapsed time between one and two seconds.
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Recently I learned a much easier way to make this type of stacked image if there's no subject overlap between frames.
First you autoalign the layers in Photoshop. Then set Menu > View > Show > Layer Edges.
Next, using a small, relatively sharp-edged erase brush, work from the top layer down, erasing the part of the current layer that overlaps the subject's image in the layer below. (You can temporarily decrease the opacity of the current layer to make it easier to see what's on the layer beneath.)
Finally, again working from top to bottom layers, use a larger, soft-edged erase brush to partially erase the boundaries between frames. This reduces sharp, vignetting-induced brightness transitions at the edge of each frame.
so much to do, so little time. K's got his eye on the prize.
Hunt Tests next weekend, our Agility nationals in New Brunswick, at the beginning of August.
I hope he doesn't get things confused HAHA
BUMPER BUMPER BUMPER BUMPER GOTTA GET IT GOTTA GET IT
I was meant to be Multi Presence but I thought the typo added to the meaning so I made it official with the hyphen. Just to make it look like it was intentional.
This is a photograph of the Keukenhof Gardens in Holland, the Netherlands. We were fortunate to visit during the tulip bloom.
One hand on the Rotolight stand, the other composing and taking the shot.
Liverpool Photo Walk, sponsored by Rotolight, hosted by Terry Donnelly.
Gullies probably formed along the bouldery layers in the upper slopes of this unnamed crater within the last few million years. Gullies eroded these crater slopes and transported sediment downslope forming debris aprons multiple times.
These older apron surfaces were cut by numerous fractures running perpendicular to the slope. Subsequent episodes of gully activity eroded through these fractures and deposited new aprons. (Image is less than 1 km across.)
NASA/JPL/University of Arizona