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Photos from our trip though a greenhouse for doing SCIENCE!
Blog: www.whatisthescience.com/exploring-science/scientific-gar...
Major modifications needed. The design I 'borrowed' is for a single wheel drive Ural CT with hydraulic rear disk brakes and I have a 2wd Gear Up with mechanical rear drum brakes. Fit was close, but 'no cigar'. Needed to shorten the tube by a foot because of interference with the rear brake linkage, cut a notch to clear a gusset on the sidecar frame, and weld on a small plate to accept a u-bolt on a cross tube.
All was pretty easy with a plasma cutter.
bored out to 11mm to make room for the cable carrier and tapered on the inside edge to help it slide easily in and out of the barrel adjuster.
Here's your internal view of the FireFly
Step 2: Remove all screws attached to the firing mechanism and cocking mechanism and remove the whole mess
The cocking lever can slide right off of the plunger assembly and be set aside. Make sure you note where all the screws go, there are several different types as well as the spring for the trigger. The orientation of the white plate above the trigger also matters a great deal because it controls the advancing of the barrels.
I pretty much guessed for all this, though I did have a rtw shirt with similar sleeves to use for looking at. The sleeveband and continuous strip-whatsit were cut on-grain, but the little loops (my first attempt! woo!) were on the bias. I was super happy with how this turned out.
"Sustainable Energy Mix" by Nick Schrombeck is licensed under CC BY-NC-SA 4.0.
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For adding supplemental bracing to my 10'x12' Harbor Freight greenhouse, I need to add some bolts to the stud tracks. These will secure the bottom of the L-brackets I am adding. I made my own T-bolts by grinding down the head of a 1/4" x 1" hex bolt.
Got this Halloween 2004.
Artist is Josh Schwegel of
Slave to the Needle
Seattle Wa
His name is Steve.
Through one of the many years of change, you can tell that the window was originally slightly smaller than it is today!
I powered up the Mini and tested the LCD.
It fits perfectly, the active area of the LCD is slightly smaller then the cutout.
New heatsink I found that will replace the old sheet of aluminum that got too hot at continuous high power usage. Works perfectly, and just about the right size.
I have three lights on the front of my scooter, the headlight, the center "style" light, and the newly installed fog light.
A bit of walkway and path building. Also a test for upload by email to
flickr and wordpress. Recently borked.
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This is how I am going to tap oil pressure and temperature from my 5.7 liter Hemi in my Chrysler 300C to get a pressure reading on my autometer that I have installed on my "A Pillare".
Best Honda Civic Modification Street Racer
www.pistonmuscle.com/cool-wallpapers/10/best-honda-civic-...
40063 at Longsight on 14th February 1982. This is one of the Scottish modification locos that had a head code panel installed in place of connecting doors. A former HA loco I'm informed that it had mismatched bogies - one with 4 sandboxes, the nearest one with only 2. On this day, 40063 was keeping company with 40014, 40117 and 40016 which were all cut up in November 1983 at Swindon Works. The 08 is 08789.
*Removed the ship's crest from the sides and added on the stern upper hull, as sort of figurehead
*Enlarged EU flag tile
*Changed the setup of the bow weapon systems
*Fixed the main engne exhaust look
August 1, 2014: Bruce Lakovick shows off freshly modified sprocket and disk brake. He's bored 'em out to accomodate a larger hub so that he can turn a mini scooter into a tall one with lower gearing. The brake disk was heat treated so we bored that one out in the lathe using the external jaws to hold it. Sprocket was too big for the lathe and its 5-spoke geometry meant it had to be bored out using the mill and a rotary table