View allAll Photos Tagged electronics
Newark, NY. August 2017.
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If you would like to use THIS picture in any sort of media elsewhere (such as newspaper or article), please send me a Flickrmail or send me an email at natehenderson6@gmail.com
Electronics hobby
Designing and building a high power amplifier capable of driving low impedance (as low as 2 Ohm’s @ 50 Vpp) loads.
www.diyaudio.com/ see alias FdW
History of DIY audio
Audio DIY came to prominence in the 50s to 60s, as audio reproduction was relatively new and the technology "complex," audio reproduction equipment, and in particular high performance equipment, was not offered at the retail level. Kits and designs were available for consumers to build their own equipment. Famous vacuum tube kits from Dynaco, Heathkit, and McIntosh, as well as solid state (transistor) kits from Hafler allowed for consumers to build their own hi fidelity systems. Books and magazines were published which explained new concepts regarding the design and operation of vacuum tube and (later) transistor circuits.
While audio equipment has become easily accessible in the current day and age, there still exists an interest in building one's own equipment, including amplifiers, speakers, preamplifiers, and even CD players and turntables. Today, a network of companies, parts vendors, and on-line communities exist to foster this interest. DIY is especially active in loudspeaker and in tube amplification. Both are relatively simple to design and fabricate without access to sophisticated industrial equipment. Both enable the builder to pick and choose between various available parts, on matters of price as well as quality, allow for extensive experimentation, and offer the chance to use exotic or highly labor-intensive solutions, which would be expensive for a manufacturer to implement, but only require personal labor by the DIYer, which is a source of satisfaction to them.
This is the "Polaroid Time-Zero OneStep (SX-70 Rainbow)" camera, it is a Polaroid Land Camera that was produced by Polaroid in 1981.
This is a classic example of a Polaroid instant camera from the 1980s. The body of the camera is made entirely out of plastic. The camera features a 1 element plastic lens with a fixed aperture (f/14). An exposure compensation control dial which is combined with an “electronic eye” (light sensor) located on the front of the camera. The camera would have originally came bundled with the "Polaroid Flash Array"; which was a row of miniature flashbulbs that would have attached to the top of the camera (although other flash devices were also available at the time; such as the "Polaroid Q-light" flash attachment) This camera was meant as a replacement for the original "OneStep", which was produced from 1977 to 1980. The original "Polaroid OneStep SX-70" features a white face plate, while the later version (the "Time-Zero" shown above) had an all black chassis; both versions featured the classic Polaroid "Rainbow" stripe on the front of the camera.
The camera would have originally used Polaroid's SX-70 instant film; which is no longer produced by Polaroid. However, the SX-70 film can still be obtained through "The Impossible Project" website. The main breakthrough with the SX-70 film pack was that it allowed for a much faster development time, hence the name "Time-Zero". It also reportedly featured richer and brighter colors than pervious instant films. An interesting fact about the SX-70 series is that the actual "battery" for the camera is contained within the film pack itself. The "PolaPulse" battery is simply a thin flat 6 volt zinc-chloride battery; which was responsible for powering the internal electronics. Which includes the motors, exposure control, and light sensor; as well as signalling flash device to fire.
A PDF version of the manual for the "Time-Zero StepOne" can be found at:
www.cameramanuals.org/polaroid_pdf/polaroid_one_step_sx70... (Part 1)
www.cameramanuals.org/polaroid_pdf/polaroid_one_step_sx70... (Part 2)
Z57 reviews and complaints: Wikipedia picture of the day for on February 6, 2016: Zenit-B soviet SLR film camera with soviet Helios-44-2 lens. ift.tt/1Rbp9U7
il est maintenant réparé une nouvelle mousse d'amortissement pour le miroir
je vais pouvoir finir la pellicule couleur qui a été mis il y a plusieurs mois
I saw this on Jon Hick’s flickr account. Very impressive and makes me want to get a mac even more. Who needs a pc anyway? It uses parallels to switch between the OS and is only $39 which is pretty good value in my opinion.
From Parallels website,”Parallels Desktop for Mac is an easy to use virtual machine which allows users to run Windows and other OSes in virtual containers directly on Mac OS X desktop. Use Windows applications without losing the functionality of your Mac - no rebooting required.”
You Tube Vid - Fast OS swithing on a Macbook on you tube
The Japanese-labeled version of the Nikkormat EL, introduced 1972. The first electronically-controlled Nikon SLR. This one came with this rather distressed 50mm lens, and a Nikkor 80-200 f4.5 zoom.
It took some cleaning to get it looking even this nice, and a lot of fiddling to get the electronics to wake up.
I know...Subtle.
Fuji GW690III
Fuji Neopan 400 pushed to ISO 1600
HC-110 - Dilution B - 12 minutes @ 68° F
BODY:
Manufactured by Nippon Kogaku K. K., Japan (Nikon Corporation since 1988)
Model: c.1968, model Photomic FTN that produced between 1968-1974.
All Nikon F produced between 1959-74
35mm film camera, fully mechanical, (except posemeter)
Engraving on the top plate: Nikon and serial no. 6944460
Lens Mount: Nikon F bayonet type
Lens release: by a button on the right front side of the camera, just beside the lens mount
Focusing: screen Matte fresnel Split-image prism rangefinder, Type A, provided as standard, interchangeable with 16 other type finder screens
Shutter: Mechanical, horizontal-travel, titanium foil focal-plane shutter
speeds: 1-1/1000, +T and B, for X sync 1/60 is red
setting : dial on the top plate, coupled with the speed dial of the finder Photomic FTN
Shutter release: Threaded collar, accepts Nikon F, F2 type cable release, on the top plate
Cocking lever: also winds the film, short stroke type, retractable,
automatic film advance possible when motor drives F36 or F250 are used.
Frame counter: on the cocking knob, Additive type, auto-reset
Reflex mirror: Automatic instant-return type
Mirror lock-up: by a lever on the right side of the lens mount
DOF preview: by a button, on the right front side of the camera, just beside the lens mount
Viewfinder: Photomic FTN, metered, SAI, eye level SLR pentaprism,
center-the needle pointer, shutter speed and apertures index visible in it, to f/32 and T&B settings, T appears as 4 sec. and B appears as 2 sec. in the finder,
Maximum aperture scale: on front of the finder:
After setting the lens to f/5.6 or lower, mount the lens on the camera and cycle first back and then forth between the minimum and maximum apertures, some spring-loaded gizmo in the finder automatically communicates the maximum lens aperture to the metering circuit
(check the maximum aperture scale)
For Nikon F cameras classic Eyelevel prism finder was standard, interchangeable with 7 other types including 4 metering prisms
Finder release: main prism release is the small silver button on the back of the top plate and second is a lever on the right side of FTN, pushed in towards the finder after the main prism release is pushed-in.
Meter switch On/Off: On button on the right side of the finder, Off button on the top-right of the finder, when the on button pressed, the meter switch-off button will pop up and a red line around its circumference will be visible. This serves as a warning that the meter is on.
Battery check: depressing the off button while the meter is off, which will cause the meter needle to move slightly right of the center notch if the battery is still good.
Exposure meter: Cadmium Sulfide cells (CdS) in prism, through-the-lens, center-weighted exposure metering, (corresponds to the 12mm in diameter ring on the screen),
Film speed range: ASA 6-6400, setting: dial on the finder
Metering range: EV 2-17
Exposure setting: manual, set the ASA then center-the-needle pointer moving between horizontally arranged +/– (over / under exposure) markers at the lower part of the viewfinder, by turning the aperture ring or speed dial, speed and aperture are visible in the viewfinder.
The needle array was duplicated on the top of the finder head to allow exposure control without looking through the viewfinder
Re-wind lever: folding crank type,
A red dot on top of the shutter release button rotates while the film is being rewound,
Re-wind release: by switching the shutter release collar to R
Flash PC socket: Possible at all speeds up to 1/60 sec with electronic flash; sync terminal provided for off camera or multiple-flash photography; sync terminal is switchable to work with flashbulbs at speeds of up to 1/1000 sec (type 6 flashbulbs)
Hot-shoe: special Nikon F-type located at base of rewind knob,
adaptors available to convert to ISO or F3-type shoes
setting: the flash sync, lift up on the milled ring around the shutter speed dial and rotate, left or right, setting which visible in the small window just forward of the shutter speed dial,
For electronic flash sync 1/60th or slower, set the white and red letters FX,
the rest of settings for using flashbulbs
Memory dial : for ASA 25-1600, on the left of the bottom plate
Self-timer: dual purpose, a lever-type, rotate it clockwise, small black tick marks for an approximately 3, 6, 10 second delay, on the ring surrounding the self-timer hub, an aid for hand held exposures at slow speeds also
activates by pressing the small silver button appears when you moving the self-timer lever
Back cover: removable with bottom plate, opens by turning open/close folding lever,
interchangeable with 250 exposure magazine back (and motor) F250
Engraving on the bottom plate: MADE IN JAPAN
Tripod socket: 1/4''
Strap lugs
Body: Weight: 1049g, approx with Tn or FTn finder
Battery: Two PX-625 1.3V mercury battery (accepts PX625A / LR9, but better is 1.35v Zinc/air), for light meter only
Battery chamber: on the bottom of the finder
F body serial no / manufacturing year data, F body features / typology are as to:
LENS:
Zoom-Nikkor Auto 43-86mm f/3.5
Manufactured by Nippon Kogaku, Japan
Mount: Nikon F bayonet type non-AI lens , automatic diaphragm ,
Solid meter coupling prong, (no nostrils), single coated, filter thread: 52mm,
serial no. 486556
as to this serial no. Lens model is c.1967
All of this 43-86mm F mount lens manufactured between 1963-74 with many modifications
Aperture: f/3.5-f/22, on the scale number 16 blue coloured
Focus range: 1.2-20m +inf
Focus and zoom ring is same, zooming by sliding it,
scale with coloured lines 43-50-60-70-86mm
F mount with 5 slot screws, Chrome lens Barrel, scalloped aperture setting ring
White coloured LENS MADE IN JAPAN engraved on the black focusing ring,
the character M has vertical sides
The distance scale on the focusing ring is calibrated in feet and meters. Infinity setting is on the left side. The feet scale is yellow and is situated above the white meter scale.
The lens manufacturing year / serial no. data, model features / typology are as to:
For Nikon F cameras the lenses 50mm f2 Auto S Nikkor and later 50mm f1.4 Auto Nikkor-S was standart.
Non-AI lenses fit on the Nikon F, early F2, Nikkormat FT, FTN, FT2, EL and ELW, and the Nikkorex F. They can be used without meter coupling on the earliest AI camera bodies such as the FM and FE, but they must not be mounted on later ones such as the FM2, as it is possible to damage the camera body.
Nikon brought semi-automatic aperture indexing (SAI) from the Nikkormat FTN into the professional F with the FTN finder.
The F is the first member of the long line of Nikon F-series professional level 35 mm SLRs that began 1959 and followed each other in a sort of dynastic succession as the top-of-the-line Nikon camera. The other members were the F2,F3,F4,F5 and F6 (2004–present).
The F-series do not share any major components.
All Nikon professional F-series SLRs are full system cameras. This means that each camera body serves as only a modular hub.
Kingsport, TN. June 2016.
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If you would like to use THIS picture in any sort of media elsewhere (such as newspaper or article), please send me a Flickrmail or send me an email at natehenderson6@gmail.com
This is my newly acquired Nikon EM and Weston Master 2 light meter. Had some fun this morning running a test roll of film through it - can't wait to see the results!
Bernhard Fleischmann - Festival der Zukunftsmusik - 10.06.2023 - Jazzit Musik Club Salzburg
www.jazzfoto.at/konzertfotos23/_festival-der-zukunftsmusi...
Bernhard Fleischmann: electronics
My new Sony a3000 fitted with one of my old Canon FDn lenses (the 28mm f2.8). I also have an adapter for my Konica AR lenses. Both FOTGA adapters came direct from Hong Kong, cost around $10, and both work very well.
Photographer/Model: Gabrielle OHare
Skin: PinkHunt - CStar
Hair: Pandora Cyberfalls - +DV8+
Outfit: CyberJammer - +DV8+
Accessories: Deathrock - +DV8+
poor man's medium format viewfinder camera form 1960. 4x4cm with 16 frames at 120 film.
Got this last week including a unexposed film from 1960 inside. I expect funny pictures :)
Bath, NY. October 2019.
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If you would like to use THIS picture in any sort of media elsewhere (such as newspaper or article), please send me a Flickrmail or send me an email at natehenderson6@gmail.com
MICROCHIP
Un gioellino dell'elettronica il mio notebook.
Oggi accusa un pò il peso dei suoi 2 anni e mezzo ma quando me lo portai a casa era pregno di energia: processore a 64bit, vagonate di RAM, wi fi e roba varia.
Usato di rado e con estrema cura, ad oggi ancora puzza di nuovo.
All'incirca un mesetto fa lo appiccio per sistemare due foto e lo lascio acceso mentre scendo per pranzo; mi rimpinzo con il sano fritto e quando risalgo in camera il gioellino si è spento.
"Si sarà stancato" penso.
E lo riavvio.
Non si riavvia.
Stacco l'alimentatore e metto la batteria.
Non si riavvia.
"E' andato" penso.
E lo ripongo nell'armadio.
MICROCIOP
All'indomani decido di portarlo al centro assistenza, che poi non è altro che il rivenditore dove lo comprai, ovvero da quei mattacchioni di Computer Discount.
"Sicurametne è l'alimentatore" mi fa la tipa.
"Non credo, non parte neanche con la batteria" faccio io.
"Avrai la batteria scarica" fa lei.
"Non credo" faccio io.
Ci attacca un altro alimentatore.
Non si appiccia.
"Toccherà mandarlo in assistenza" fa lei.
"E mi sa" faccio io.
Lo mandano in assistenza.
Passa una settimana e ripasso al negozio per chiedere notizie; mi accoglie il tecnico.
Mi fa: "Mi sono appena interfacciato con l'HP per avere notizie".
Gli faccio un giro intorno per vedere dove ha la USB per interfacciarsi direttamente con l'HP e me ne rivado, chiedendogli che cortesemente mi aggiornino su eventuali sviluppi.
Mi aggiornano pochi giorni dopo, via telefono "Sicuramente è la scheda madre e non è conveniente sostituirla, se vuole provano ad aggiustarla, ma la avverto solo il preventivo, eventualmente sono 72€".
"Non fa nulla" faccio io "non mi va di rischiare che poi sicuramente non si può aggiustare e spendo a 72€ a vuoto".
"Ma, guardi solitamente ci riescono e con una cifra modica aggiusta il computer; in tal caso il preventivo non lo paga, ma solo la riparazione".
"Ok, allora va bene". Immediatamente dopo ho la sensazione inequivocabile che non lo aggiusteranno. Lo so, me lo sento.
Chiamano la settimana successiva.
"Non si può riparare, occorre sostituire la motherboard, costa 498€".
"Un prezzo onesto" faccio io "Lasci stare, appena posso passo da voi e vi dò i 72€ di preventivo che tanto già li avevo pronti..."
"Ok, mi spiace sà, quando viene comunque le mostro anche dei preventivi che le ho preparato sui 600/700€ per un nuovo notebook"
"Ah ok, me li stampi"...affarista si, ma rincoglionito non ancora...
Dopo aver ritirato il malato elettronico (72€ preventivi inclusi) torno a casa e mi affido ad una delle mie poche certezze: Ebay.
Raccatto una motherboard usata e funzionante dall'Inghilterra: 118€ spedita.
La monto. Qualche periferica (inutile) non corrisponde, qualche altro pezzetto mi tocca aggiustarlo da me, diverse viti mi avanzano.
Ma una volta chiuso tutto non si vede nulla e soprattuto: FUNZIONA!
Il gioellino è tornato.