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Pentax K-5, converted to 590nm infrared by Isaac Szabo
external Haida 720nm filter
SMC Pentax 1:1.8 55mm
Iridient Developer
Skies somewhat darker than with the 590nm filter on the sensor, but the light was changing rapidly so it's not an ideal comparison.
For Processing BW Film - Not For Drinking!
The FPP’s new Caffenol Developer for Black and White Processing at home! CUP O’ JOE is a powder solution in a handy pouch that when mixed with water produces 1 Liter of BW Home Developing solution that will process up to 4 rolls of 35mm, 120 or 8 4x5 sheets of BW film.
filmphotographystore.com/products/darkroom-supplies-caffe...
The Film Photography Project now brings you D96 B/W negative developer. Long used in the motion picture industry as the standard B/W developer, but previously only available in very large quantities. We now have it available in powder to make 1 US Gallon.
D96 is a lower contrast film developer with the ability to increase the contrast by increasing your developing times or agitation. We have tested this developer with not only cinema films like X2 (Eastman Double-X), ORWO Cinema Films and FPP LOW ISO BW, but with standard B/W films like Kodak Tri-X. T-Max and Ilford FP4 an HP5 films.
IN ENGLISH BELOW THE LINE
Ja fa uns mesos que volia provar algun sistema de revelat invers "casolà" per a pel·licula en blanc i negre. M'explico: el revelat invers (reversal en anglès) és aquell que aconsegueix positius directes a la pel·licula. S'anomena així perque tota pel·licula primer cal revelar-la com a negatiu, i dins del propi revelat, posteriorment es capgira el que es negatiu per positiu, tant en color com en blanc i negre. El revelat invers en color és el anomenat E6 i l'he fet alguna vegada sense problemes, amb "kits" comercials.
Per al revelat invers en blanc i negre també hi ha "kits" comercials, però amb l'afegit que alguns dels liquids, en especial el "bleach" o blanquejador son especialment toxics i perillosos. Però molt, eh (permanganat potassic i sobretot dicromat potassic, a sobre barrejats amb acid sulfuric).
Per això he estat experimentant amb diversos procesos "reversal" alternatius amb quimics menys angoixants (també s'han de tractar amb cura, però el mateix es pot dir de tota la resta de química fotogràfica). He provat variacions del més comentat, basat en disolucions de peroxid d'hidrogen (aigua oxigenada) a 40º, però els resultats foren decebedors, de pobres a nuls. En el cas que em mig funcionà, la pel·licula quedà plena de taques i marques.
Finalment vaig provar un altre procés basat en un doble bany blanquejador: clorur ferric primer, i amoniac després. I funciona!!! Amb bons resultats a la primera i tot a temperatura ambient de 20º!
En primer lloc faig servir un revelador normal de blanc i negre, però força potent, en aquest cas HC110 però en dilució A, la més concentrada, i durant 8 minuts. Després d'un bany d'aigua, ve la sol·lució de clorur ferric 1+1 (reaprofitable), un altre bany d'aclarit, el amoniac 4+1 (força concentrat), un seguent bany d'aclarit, i finalment una solució de metabisulfit de sodi de 30 gr. x litre (i de nou aclarit amb aigua).
En aquest punt, cal fer una cosa que tot el sentit del fotograf analogic li diu que no, i és obrir el tanc de revelat i exposar la pel·licula directament a la llum d'una bombeta incandescent una bona estona, ben be un minut. Fins i tot millor treure la pel·licula de l'espiral per a exposar-la be. El blanquejador ha dissolt les parts ja revelades, pel que ara només queden les sals de plata no exposades amb la càmera. Es veu clarament que està bé si s'aprecien les imatges ja en positiu però força palides. A mi em varen quedar més aviat grogues perquè no vaig fer un bany prou intents després del clorur ferric, que ho tenyeix tot de groc (però amb més rentat queden més blanques). A partir d'aqui es pot fer la resta del procés amb llum. Només resta tornar a revelar la pel·licula amb revelador normal i corrent, rentar i finalment fixar-ho com sempre.
La intenció final de revelar invers no és tant obtenir diapositives en blanc i negre, sino pel·licules de 8mm i 16mm que pugui projectar en pantalla com es feia abans. I vaig pel bon camí!
Aqui teniu el video que m'ha servit per aprendre aquest procés, gracies a Analog Resurgence (que ho explica amb detall):
www.youtube.com/watch?v=vlYVI31WnIw&t=535s
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I've been wanting to try some "homemade" reverse developing process for black and white film for a few months now. Let me explain: the reverse development is one that achieves direct positives in the film. It is called so because every film must first be developed as a negative, and later in the process itself, what is negative is chemically reversed for positive, both in color and in black and white. The reverse color proces is called E6 and I have done it once without problems, with commercial kits.
There are also commercial kits for black and white reverse development, but with the addition that some of the liquids, especially the bleach, are particularly toxic and dangerous. And I mean a lot (potassium permanganate and especially potassium dichromate, mixed with sulfuric).
So I've been experimenting with various alternative reversal processes with less distressing chemicals (they also need to be handled with care, but the same can be said for all other photographic chemistry). I have tried variations of the most discussed, based on hot solutions of hydrogen peroxide (oxygenated water) at 40º C, but the results were disappointing, from poor to nil. In the case that half worked for me, the film was full of spots and marks.
Finally I tried another process based on a double bleach bath: ferric chloride first, then ammonia. And it works!!! With good results the first time and all at an ambient temperature of 20º C!
First I use a normal black and white developer, but quite powerful, in this case HC110 but in dilution A, the most concentrated, and for 8 minutes. After a stop bath, comes the ferric chloride solution 1+1 (reusable), a long rinse bath, ammonia solution 4+1 (highly concentrated and also reusable), another long rinse bath, and finally a solution of sodium metabisulphite of 30 gr. x liter of water (and again rinsed with water).
At this point, you have to do something that all the analog photographer's sense tells you not to do, and that is to open the developer tank and expose the film directly to the light of an incandescent bulb for a long time, well a minute . Even better to remove the film from the spiral to expose it well. The bleach has dissolved the parts already revealed, so now only the silver salts not exposed to the camera remain. It is clearly seen that it is good if you appreciate the images already in positive but quite pale. They were rather yellow for me because I didn't take a bath enough times after the ferric chloride, which dyes everything yellow (but with more washing they become whiter). From here you can do the rest of the process with light. All that remains is to develop the film again with normal developer, stop bath and finally fix and wash it as usual.
The ultimate intention of reverse developing is not so much to get black and white slides, but 8mm and 16mm film that you can project on the screen as it was done before. And I'm on the right track!
Here is the video that helped me learn this process, thanks to Analog Resurgence (which explains it in detail):
A boy and a dinosaur in Okayama, Japan.
Leica M3, Ilford FP4, Kodak Tmax developer, Ilford Multigrade RC deluxe satin paper, Silver gelatin print.
kurtkgledhill.myportfolio.com
What a nasty old day we had last Sunday. I loved it! This was at just about the time, early in the afternoon, when the snow started to turn to rain. It's a familiar pattern in winter: mild air, fresh off the Atlantic, drives colder air ahead of it, contact between the two masses chilling the frontal boundary so that precipitation descends firstly as snow, rapidly turning to rain. Not many about on the A11, where it forms a by-pass around Thetford. Off right the handy BP garage is undergoing a refurb, amounting to a complete demolition and rebuild. It's southbound counterpart, visible through the denuded dripping twigs on the opposite side of the road, was given the same treatment back in the summer.
Those of you not interested in the photographic details may skip the rest, but I was getting a bit experimental here. For one thing the film was a Fuji Neopan 400, expired in 2003. It has been discontinued in 120 size: I'm not sure about 35mm. In view of the out-of-datedness, I de-rated it to 200ASA. When I looked up developing times I discovered that the times for the two developers I have to hand ...Ilford Ilfotec LC29 and Fomadon R09... were the same, if the R09 were diluted 1+25. I made up a half-and-half mixture of the two. This is the shot I like best. Others were OK and their lack of sparkle is probably due to the simple fact of poor mid-winter light. Not much we can do about that, but (23rd January) we have already gained 56 minutes of daylight since the solstice in December.
Plotting some data from www.hackdiary.com/2010/02/10/algorithmic-recruitment-with... in preparation for Web Directions @media London on Friday.
Shows all developers who identify their location as London on Github, who have 4 or more other Londoners following them. The sizes and colours come from Betweenness Centrailty and In-Degree respectively.
Plotted with Gephi
Brescia Italy
Voigtlander Bessa R2. Voigtlander Nokton 35mm 1.2 iii Asph. Fomapan 100 in Rodinal 1+50 developer.
Pentax ME Super (S/N:3168177)
SMC Pentax-A 1:1.7 50mm (S/N:1259800)
Kodak Eastman Double-X 5222 (200 ISO)
Foma Fomadon Excel 1:1 for 10mins (20C)
Homemade coffee based film developer.
My formula:
Dissolve 5tbs instant coffee in 6oz water.
Dissolve 4tbs washing soda in 2oz of water. Stir until uniform.
Add soda solution to coffee.
Dissolve 1000mg Vitamin C in 2oz water. Dissolves fast.
Add Vitamin C solution to coffee/washing soda mixture.
Put in freezer until temp lowers to 20C.
I developed for 15 minutes, agitating 15 seconds for every minute of development.
Fujifilm X-M1, XC16-50mmF3.5-5.6 OIS, all pre-production, RAW / Iridient Developer & Apple Aperture
Read the X-Pert Corner article about using the X-M1 and the two new lenses (XF27mmF2.8 & XC16-50mmF3.5-5.6 OIS) on June 27th.
Free PDF reading samples from my current book on the X-Pro1 (also suitable for X-E1 users):
English: Mastering the Fujifilm X-Pro1 (reading samples, 65 pages, PDF)
German: Das Fujifilm X-Pro1 Handbuch (65 Seiten Leseproben, PDF)
On the way to Presido, had to stop for this. Warning, subject in photo is much farther away appears!
Flic Film makes a developer called Black/White & Green. It has a syrup-like consistency and is advertised to have a long shelf-life. Recently, I also noticed that it's vitamin-C based, so decided to try stand developing with it, thinking it could be something life caffenol (it's also environmentally friendly as per Flic Film).
I could not find any posts on stand developing with this developer. Flic Film only provides standard developing times. However, I tried and it worked really well at 1:100 for 65 minutes, with 1 minute inversion at the beginning.
Fed 2
Industar 61 L/D
Arista 400
Flic Film Black White & Green, 1:100, 65 minutes
Pakon F135
Another abstraction in salt.
Nikon F2 Photomic
Nikkor-S Auto 1:1.4 50mm
I may have taken the filter off for this one
Kodak Tri-X 400
T-Max developer
© István Pénzes
Please NOTE and RESPECT the copyright.
Spring 2019 @home
Leicaflex SL2
Summilux 80mm
Kodak T-max 400 @100
Kodak T-max developer
Imacon Flextight 343
Crab Developer Kit: CR4B1
Using only the parts from 9748 and a couple of extra bevel gears, I made this alternate for the Crab collab after the pieces were sitting around for an incomplete moc I was blocked on for ages. I may publish some instructions later since alternates for this set are practically non-existent.
Video of it moving about using the old Mindstorms motor here: flic.kr/p/2q4hDks
#TimeForCrab is here! This year we invite all builders across the community and the globe to participate in a month-long open crab collab, spanning June 22 to July 22. The task is simple:
1. Build a crab
2. Post your crab with the tag #timeforcrab
3. Repeat!
All crustaceans are welcome, and your build can be anything recognizably crustacean-inspired. Be it an actual crab, a fantasy crab, a mech, a spaceship, a castle or anything else - just make it vaguely resemble crab! The primary venues of Time for Crab are Flickr and Instagram, but feel free to share your crabs far and wide. Spread the word, and invite your friends to join!
The ambition is to make this an annually recurring month-long open collab, always taking place in this same timeframe. Let's get the ball rolling.
It's Time for Crab!
I got distracted and started to add blix instead of the developer for a half second before washing it out in a total panic.
Used it right after I made it but it under developed. Added a few more minutes but after a few days I had over developed film. Right in the middle time I should be good.
2/5
A sample image generated by Hull Developer.
Original image is www.flickr.com/photos/aaronpriestphoto/8713497571 .
This film is badly developed unfortunately, i have low function of developer.
Shoted with my TwinLens Reflex Camera Meopta Flexaret VII on film 120 Foma Fomapan 400 with mask on format 645 (6x4.5cm) and developed in Foma Fomadon R09. Scan with Canon Canoscan 9950F in original film holder, EXIF information added from ExifNotes via ExifTool Development details on FilmDev
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I love film photography most. I started to shoot on the film when i was 12 yo. after my high school I photographed on digital and in 2020 i came back to the film.
If you like my work and want to support me, Thank you and go to adlg.cz/donate
All my photos are in same license, see the info on the site. If you like to use my photo outside of this license pleas write me message with your offer and plan.