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티아라 지연, 효민(오른쪽)이 28일 오후 경상북도 경주 시민운동장에서 열린 ‘2014 한류 드림 페스티벌’에서 화려한 공연을 펼치고 있다.이날 콘서트에는 엑소-케이(EXO-K)를 비롯해 카라, 씨스타, 포미닛, 빅스, 비투비, 블락비, 에일리, 시크릿, 비에이피, 크레용팝, 티아라, 달샤벳, 탑독, 포커즈, 갓세븐, 베스티, 딕펑스, 레드벨벳, 소년공화국, 헤일로, 루커스 등이 출연했다.
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Hopefully you’ve read Part 1 of this article, and also seen the video I created talking about this. If not, I recommend grabbing a mug of tea and reading / watching those first – this will make a lot more sense. In part 1, I talked about labelling the new wiring harness whilst it’s out the car, and whilst you still have the old harness in your car to refer back to. Whilst time-consuming, this made the following steps much quicker and less daunting.
So now you’re ready to remove the old wiring harness.
Step 2: Disconnect the Old Harness
Firstly, disconnect the battery Negative and Positive terminals in the boot, and remove the battery just to be sure no wires touch it. Throughout this process I recommend trying to keep the old harness in one piece as far as possible – there may be wires, connectors, bulb holders or cables that you may need to re-use in some way when the new harness goes back in. And it may be that you still want to refer to the old harness in later steps.
I also recommend that wherever the old loom is connecting to other wires or equipment, before disconnecting the wires make sure you can tell the terminal numbers or the colour-codes of the other wires, otherwise you’ll get into a mess here. On my car, the wires that come out of the wiper motor were impossible to identify, so I cut the main harness to leave ‘stubs’ of identifiable wire in the bullet connector – at least that way I knew what wires go where when re-connecting the new harness. Obviously this breaks the notion of keeping the old harness as complete as possible, but it was the safest way to do this. Alternatively, label the cables or terminals, but be sure the labels don’t fall-off!
Now start disconnecting the old harness in the engine bay. Work logically and take lots of photos of each terminal or component as a record. Disconnect the lights in the wings – there are bullet connectors at the front right and left of the engine bay. Disconnect the wires from the fusebox and the surrounding components. Also don’t forget to disconnect the reverse light switch and starter inhibitor switch cabling that run to the gearbox. These come through the bulkhead just to the left of the heater matrix. You’ll also find the starter relay to the left of the heater matrix.
In total there are 4 places where cables come through the bulkhead into the engine bay:
Left side of bulkhead, behind left bonnet hinge.
Just to the left of the heater matrix.
Left of the fusebox.
Right side of bulkhead, behind right bonnet hinge.
Once done, move inside the car. You’ll need to remove the cardboard cover under the dashboard, and also undo the front of the main instrument binnacle. Once unscrewed, this can then be pulled backwards slightly. You’ll need to get your hand in there to disconnect the Speedometer and the trip reset cable – this is easier if you first disconnect the other end of the trip reset cable from the dash rail. The binnacle front should then move back a bit further. It’s very cramped in there.
Start disconnecting the wires from the instruments, switches and warning / illumination lights, taking lots of photos. Once every wire is free, the binnacle front can be removed, This is a great time to recondition the binnacle or the instruments themselves. On a Coupe don’t forget the instruments slung inner the main binnacle – these screw into the main binnacle from underneath, and some have a short extension harnesses for lamps – keep this, as it probably won’t be part of the new harness.
Next, move to the left front footwell. Remove the trim panel in the footwell (it pulls away), as behind here is the connection point where the front harness connects to the rear harness. You’ll should see a bunch of bullet connectors pushed into the cavity on the left – disconnect these, taking lots of photos first.
Finally, there’s the centre console. You’ll need to remove this, as the cabling passes through metal frame. Remove the switch panel, disconnect the wires, and don’t forget the gear selector illumination cabling as well. Also there are normally cables under the dash (cold-start warning light switch).
Step 3: Remove the Old Harness
OK, so you should now have the harness disconnected. The next challenge is removing it from the car. To do this you really need to remove the bonnet hinges – the harness snakes around the hinges after coming through the bulkhead into the engine bay, and it’s impossible to remove the old harness (or fit the new one) with the hinges in place.
Once the bonnet is off, push/pull the harness back through the bulkhead into the car. Try to preserve any grommets that are in good condition – the original Lucas grommets are very soft and easy to fit, but are almost impossible to find. Modern cheap grommets are horrible in comparison. Once you have the harness inside the car, work from one side to the other threading the old harness out.
Now is a great time to recondition the dashboard coverings etc. The car will be looking pretty awful, but things will get better! As mentioned, try to preserve as much of the old harness as possible.
Step 4: Fit the New Harness
Just do everything you’ve just done, but in reverse, Simple! Well, actually, no, but this step needs some patience and strength to get the new harness installed correctly. Start by placing the new harness across the dashboard, laying parts of the harness in approximately the correct place. Now, you need to get the harness ends back through the bulkhead into the engine compartment. You need to do this without damaging your expensive new harness, but that’s not so easy when you have small, sharp-edged holes to get through.
My solution was to buy a roll of thick polythene tubing, they type that can be used by companies to create heat-sealed bags. This is ideal to protect the harness as you pass it through the bulkhead – the polythene may get damaged, but your harness should be safe. Wrap the harness in the polythene, securing it tightly with PVC table, and start pushing/pulling the harness through the bulkhead. It should go through eventually. Do this at all 4 places the harness passes through the bulkhead, positioning the grommets correctly – these are absolutely necessary otherwise the panel will cut into the harness.
Use the same trick wherever the harness passes through a panel.
I used the same polythene tubing to pass the harness through the passenger footwell, and also through the metal frame of the centre console. Once the harness is in place, carefully unwrap the tubing and pull it off the harness, being careful not to let the panel edge damage the harness. As you do each one, refit the harness grommets. Once they’re fitted, you’re past the worst.
Now is a good time to re-fit the bonnet and hinges, making sure to route the harness neatly around the hinges, and replace the plastic edge-trim that prevents the hinge cutting-into the harness.
Step 5: Connecting the New Harness
Now you need to connect the new harness. This part needs time and patience, as mistakes now will take much longer to find and fix later.
Take your wiring diagram (see the Shop!) and a dry-marker pen. Work through every cable and component, checking the terminal numbers, wiring colour etc, and connecting it up. Make sure wires are routed as neatly as possible.
Make a final check that all wires of the new harness are connected, and it all looks correct.
Step 6: Testing the New Harness
This is the scary step, but don’t panic – follow these steps and you should be fine. Firstly, remove all the fuses from the fusebox. This means that even with the battery connected, most of the harness will be ‘dead’.
Now make-up a short cable with an inline fuse holder, and temporarily connect that to the positive battery lead. I’d suggest starting with a 2Amp fuse. This is a safeguard in case something’s wrong when you reconnect the battery.
Now, connect your fused lead to the battery, and then connect the earth lead. You shouldn’t see, hear or smell anything bad, and the fuse shouldn’t blow. If you removed all the fuses, nothing should be visibly powered at this point – no lights on, the clock shouldn’t be working etc. There is power in the harness, but only the bare minimum.
The next step is to add each fuse in-turn, starting at the top, and test each circuit. Measure some voltages making sure they’re as expected. To make this easier I split my wiring diagram by function, so you can just look at each part in turn. Once happy with each circuit, remove that fuse and insert the next fuse.
If a fuse blows when inserted, you know that that circuit has a short, The only thing to do is trace that circuit, checking all connections carefully. Hopefully, if nothing else was changed, you’ll find the issue. I recommend that you don’t disturb anything else through this process such as the wiper motor, as that adds another variable – at least of you haven’t touched these things you’ll know it must be the harness that’s wrong. I didn’t follow my own advise here, but fortunately it worked out OK for me.
Once you’ve gone through each fuse and are happy everything works as expected, start adding the fuses again, but leave the previous fuse in-place. Again, check that everything works as expected. At the end of this, you should have a fully-working car again.
Summary
Throughout this process, it’s particularly important to work methodically and carefully. One incorrect wire can disable the whole car, so care is definitely needed. But by putting effort into Step 1, you can hopefully prevent any problems later. I was fortunate in that apart from a couple of things that needed terminals cleaning, everything worked after reconnecting the new harness. It can certainly seem daunting, but if I can do it, you can do it!
In the third-and-final part, I’ll discuss some of the changes I made to my new harness, mainly to make the car safer to use. By making these changes to the new harness before fitting it, I could re-wrap the harness so that the changes look completely original.
i dropped this burner, and guess what, for some odd reason weah goes over me again with a simple piece..he didnt do a background,no characters, nothing!
This is a newspaper article (我报）that interviewed me on pinhole photography in Singapore. It showcase all the models of pinhole cams that i am currently keeping in stock and some images that i shot using them.
I am sorry the article is written in Chinese and I dun have the translation into English.
The British Original Jigsaw Club(s) of Cornwall & London were the subject of an article by Nicki Barker in the Spring 2023 issue of the BCD Magazine (issue 148,pg 14-15). Subsequent information received from Anne Williams confirms identity of the Rowes (Ashley & Kathleen) as Mr & Mrs Aldon Roen, and a link to Aldon Studios.
The fantastic late cut (by AB) shown in the left column was discovered by USA expert Anne Williams. Its label has the same format as two others with earlier stock numbers, which date the club to 1909 and both name the Rowes as proprietors - one from Cornwall and the other in London. Interestingly, the Cornwall label has the printed address 'Scorrier' crossed out and amended in ink with Mount Hawke. Perhaps this is an earlier address!
The Cornish examples both have the advice to 'Re-Tie the Bag' printed on the label. The London Club map of Europe jigsaw, which has dated replacement pieces putting its cutting date pre-Sept 1922, has no such advice, but the other London example has a label talking about a bag - possibly implying the introduction of a bag where one was not previously used. Unfortunately, the identity of the cutter (K?) or stock number K53184? is not clear or in the same format as the Cornish Labels.
A European map would have been of great interest after the redrawing of country boundaries during the conferences and treaties ending the Great War. The cut of this jigsaw is similar to that of the Valley Church. The Escape of a Heretic shows some line-cutting and a push-fit style with less defined knobs - it is closer in style to the example shown in the BCD magazine of the monks fishing, belonging to the London Club but listing Mrs Aldon Roen as proprietor.
Anne Williams found information about Aldon Studios from Games and Toys, a Feb 1917 Trade Magazine. It gave the address as 263 Regent St W, and described them as specialists in jigsaw puzzles, 'unique little figures cut in 3ply wood', makers of 'Eve' figures and 6d calendars.
An undated London Directory: "First Aldon Studios & Jig Saw Puzzle Club (Ashley & Kathleen Rowe, 24 Great Russell St WC )."
Article Magazine ECHAPPEMENT: Megane R26R 380CV by Dijon Auto Racing
Présentation:
www.youtube.com/watch?v=gJjdS4oS_WY
0 à 250 km/h:
A photo of the pages in my old Eminem scrapbook. i started this scrapbook years ago and no longer add to this book anymore. There is a collection of images and interviews from the internet but mostly magazines.
An article in the November 2012 edition of "Barnsley Today" it seems that some clown is after converting part of the Woodhead trackbed into a motorway. If anything is done the line should be reopened even if just as a freight route to get road freight away from the trans-pennine roads then he could have a much better journey in his car, and it would cost much less that the amount he's proposing.
This article describing the big ideas behind Scratch was published in the November 2009 issue of the Communications of the ACM (CACM).
You can download the article at web.media.mit.edu/~mres/papers/Scratch-CACM-final.pdf
[Article copyright Newsday, 2016]
LIICT 2016, our sixth annual tour, is now set for Saturday, July 16. LIICT (Long Island Ice Cream Tour is open invitation to anyone who likes ice cream and a fun day of trying interesting fresh homemade flavors at local ice cream shops (or ice cream parlors, if your prefer the old-fashioned term).
Buy ice cream at every place (or wherever you’d like), any flavor, any size. Whatever you want to try. Some places offer free samples. You can join us at anytime, leave at any time.
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*Wear a PURPLE shirt or outfit*
Preparation: Please eat a light and healthy breakfast. Expect to eat 5-8 single scoops of ice cream throughout the day. Lunch is optional. We may also have dinner. As much as we’d like to believe in technology, it’s best you bring some cash in case one or two of the ice cream parlours only take cash. SEE CHECKLIST AT BOTTOM.
Schedule:
** SECRET STOP: [8:30–9:30am] Star Confectionary
[10:00am–10:40am] Snowflake Ice Cream Shoppe, 1148 W Main St, Riverhead, NY 11901
[11:15am–11:45am] McNulty Ice Cream Parlor, 153 N. Country Rd., Miller Place - *LIICT special deal – $2 for two scoops! or 20% off anything else!
[12:15pm–12:45pm] SubZero Patchogue Ice Cream & Yogurt, 73 North Ocean Ave., Patchogue - *LIICT special deal – free mix in!
[1:30pm–2:20pm] Northport Sweet Shop, 55 Main St., Northport
[2:40pm–3:20pm] Herrell's Ice Cream, 46L Gerard St., Huntington - *LIICT special deal – 10% off anything!
[3:55pm–4:25pm] Krisch's Restaurant & Ice Cream Parlour, 11 Central Ave., Massapequa
[4:55pm–5:40pm] Frozen Cow Ices and Cream, 300 Lido Blvd., Lido Beach
[5:45pm–6:20pm] Marvel Frozen Dairy, 258 Lido Blvd., Lido Beach - *LIICT special deal – $1/off!
[6:45pm–7:15pm] Five Pennies Creamery, 11 N. Park Ave., Rockville Centre
[7:20pm–7:50pm] International Delight Cafe Rockville Centre, 241 Sunrise Hwy #11, Rockville Centre
[8:00pm–9:00pm] Itgen's Ice Cream Parlour, 211 Rockaway Ave., Valley Stream
EVENT TIMES SUBJECT TO CHANGE. In previous years, we've ended around 9:00 PM.
Please follow @liictour on Twitter for updates during the event.
Transport: There will be several cars driving to each location. If you’d like to carpool with anyone, then leave a comment below.
We hope to see you with your friends and family this weekend.
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Checklist:
• Camera - We will have a camera crew and will be able to send you photos and videos after the event. If you do bring a camera, be sure to bring spare batteries and/or spare memory cards.
• Phone charger - You will likely be away from a power outlet for 8–12 hours. Bring a portable USB battery charger and/or a car charger.
• Sunscreen - Put some sunscreen on before leaving. It's possible we will be out in the sun for several of the stops. We don't want anyone getting burned out from a long adventure let alone getting your skin burnt.
• Money - Most ice cream shops will accept debit/credit cards. Some may accept Apple Pay. Some may only accept cash. Bring some cash, if possible.
• Transport Fuel - If you drive a car powered by petrol, then you may need to fill up once throughout the day. We recommend arriving with a full tank. We drive about 170 km (110 miles). The nearest Tesla Supercharger is 7 Aerial Way, Syosset, NY 11791.
Details also available from our site: liict.org/2016/05/23/liict-2016-date-set
Event on Facebook: facebook.com/events/1602179103376148
Event on Google+: plus.google.com/b/104952353969553190793/events/ch25keph5b...
Déclaration universelle des droits de l'homme - article 15.1
Calligraphie Quadrata et Chancellière , Aquarelle
Article in Country Life, 28th June 1924 about a house called The Heath in Leighton Buzzard. The house was located off Plantation Road and is now a housing estate (the roads of The Heath, Heath Court and Dukes Ride).
See www.flickr.com/photos/leightonian/14001987922/in/photostr... for first page of article
걸그룹 티아라가 28일 오후 경상북도 경주 시민운동장에서 열린 ‘2014 한류 드림 페스티벌’에서 화려한 공연을 펼치고 있다. 왼쪽부터 은정, 큐리, 지연, 효민, 보람, 소연.이날 콘서트에는 엑소-케이(EXO-K)를 비롯해 카라, 씨스타, 포미닛, 빅스, 비투비, 블락비, 에일리, 시크릿, 비에이피, 크레용팝, 티아라, 달샤벳, 탑독, 포커즈, 갓세븐, 베스티, 딕펑스, 레드벨벳, 소년공화국, 헤일로, 루커스 등이 출연했다.
Kelly Byrne '11 given to her by Alex Pons '11, Universal Declaration of Human Rights
We’re collecting your pictures as you roam the globe. E-mail the image to project13@colgate.edu.
Side event: Meeting the Article 5 challenge.
Hosted by Norwegian People’s Aid
This event featured a close look at where countries with Article 5 challenges are at, and what they need to focus on to be able to complete.
See the ‘Clearing the mines’ report by the Landmine Monitor Mine Action Team for the Third Review Conference: www.npaid.org/Media/20_Files/Mine-action/Mine-Action-Team...
An article in ADORN MAGAZONE about craft fairs that has a photo of Tess (http://www.sappymoosetree.com) and me in it!!!!
In the latest BCD magazine (Issue 137 Autumn 2020) I wrote an article about the highest sales prices achieved for jigsaws I'd noticed on ebay (UK) in the period Dec 2018 - Mar 2020. This was illustrated by photos of No1, No9, No12 & No25. The top 28 of these jigsaws went for more than £300 - this was excluding jigsaws sold from the USA, like Staves and Pars which I listed to put the UK jigsaws in context.
Here we have four vintage jigsaws, all sold by BCD members:
Top L: No6: Tuck ZagZaw 2000pc A Rich Repast, a push-fit whimsy cut. The seller hadn't time to assemble the jigsaw, so it sold as is in May 2019 for £938.
Top R: No5: Tuck ZagZaw 1000pc Evening on the Valley of the Shenandoah by Andrew Melrose 36x22in. This jigsaw is also a push-fit whimsy cut, with 150fig. It sold in May 2019 for £945. (Another example of this jigsaw sold in April 2019 for £485, as no12 - there was no reason for this difference, but the price achieved depends upon the particular competing buyers on the night).
Lower R: No14: Vintage Pears 1019pc Suspense by Charles Burton Barber, whose sinusoidal smooth push-fit style might indicate it was cut by Peacock or Tuck, but there is also significant line-cutting. With 4repl it measures 26x18in. It was sold in May 2019 for £425.
Lower L: No16: Vintage 1475pc River Scene by William Dommersen, 29x20in cut in a complex smooth push-fit style. It sold in Feb 2019 for £407.
Unknown cutters, as opposed to big, well-respected names (like Tuck, Holtzapffel and Enid Stocken) are more difficult for buyers to find using digital search tools. Buyers have to rely more on the reputation of the seller, or presence in certain jigsaw library stock (or monitor listings very thoroughly) to locate these gems.
I was approached by Better Photography magazine (India) to write a short "On Assignment" article about focus blur technique. This is the end result :)