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Taken with my new Ricoh GRD III. I went out at lunchtime today and had a walk around sheffield. I was looking to test the performance of this amazing little camera.
All these shots are straight out of the camera.
A few last minute low light tests using the Fuji X100s camera. A: Quietly in a dark live theatre show 'Little Mercy' B: a dark sunset catching much of the Western sunset opposite the Harbour Bridge from Walsh Bay wharfs.
Testing different lenses for zoom and ease of use.
Think the Sony SEL55210mm on the a6000 is the easiest.
See the EXIF on each image.
There was a really simple device for testing for the level of contamination on your shoes and hands.
Sebastian Loeb (FRA) World Rally Champion tests for Red Bull Racing.
Formula One Testing, Day One, Barcelona, Spain, 17 November 2008.
This is a test shot of Bridgelux Vero 18 35W LED module, p/n BXRC-30H4000-F-03. This LED is advertised as having CRI 97 and 4000 lm luminous flux, which is equivalent to characteristics of 150W halogen lamp. Color temperature should be about 3000K.
This photo was taken in complete darkness without any optics covering LED module. Paper with pastel swatches was located in about 100mm from the module and set at 45º to its axis. Camera was set to 3200K color temperature and I had to close the diaphragm pretty much to get this paper properly exposed.
As you can see, color balance is a bit off the uniform in reds, but it's normal for high CRI LEDs because of wider "red hump" in their spectrum. At least, it's not worse than "orange hump" of halogens. 3000K seems to be real number too. Swatches are bright and equally lit, which is impossible with regular LEDs, having CRI 72 or even worse, which is equivalent to cheap fluorescent tubes.
To prevent overheating, I've used HP server CPU passive heatsink, p/n 409498-001 (bought used one from eBay for less than $10). It keeps the LED temperature just above the body temperature, so it's a kind of overhead, which I expected - this heatsink is intended for CPUs with TDP more than 65W. It means, I can use smaller cylindrical one with small (40mm) fan.
My new test-setup for lens-testing. Read more about this at Camera Labs
Watch out: This is only a 2792 x 3956 crop from the full frame, covering approx. a quarter of the sensor.
Tests with a Lomo anamorphic 2x lens. Will not achieve infinity focus apparently. Still interesting, though.
Basically I just held the anamorphic element up in front of my Nikon 85mm f/1.8 and there was no way to get it to hold focus properly.
Interestingly, the 2x squeeze coupled with the 3:2 ratio of the D700 yields a 3:1 widescreen image, which is wider than any of the anamorphic cinema images. Even Cinerama was only 2.89:1. If this actually worked it would be pretty cool.
Day 30:
Yea.. I'm just messing around with lighting placements. I really want to get a dark blue background (my walls are obviously yellow so I need to purchase some fabric.. YAY). Anyways, busy day :( I look terrible but I do like the lighting.
Setup: YN560 @ 1/2 fired through a white diffuser umbrella in front of me and Bower SFD728C fired behind me
Scored an almost mint Bronica S2 on e-bay to replace mine because it sounds like someone dropped a coffee can full of springs down the stairs every time you cock the shutter. Tmax100 in R09 for 15 minutes. She shoots straight! Yay.
Lens test to check for infrared hotspotting with the
Fujifilm Fujinon XF 18-135/3.5-5.6 R LM OIS WR
Images shot at various focal lenghts and apertures.
The test showed no hotspotting, and wad performed to add to my previous tests of my other Fujinon lenses.
My other tests can be seen here: dervishimages.wordpress.com/2015/06/07/fuji-lens-testing-...
I noticed the shots from the D200 tend to be a tad bit under, and in the LCD they look a bit on the yellowish side. But once developed, the AWD works like a charm... way better than fumbling with what I've gotten used to. Oh and the Matrix Metering appears to be actually working to my advantage for the first time in my life...
This is developed with Nikon Editor, auto contrast w/o color change, low sharpening, no noise removal, (stamped in PS to remove dust on lens).
Photographer: Valery Shpak
Instagram: @valeryshpakphotography
weddings, family photos, corporate portraits, commercials and real estate aerial drone and digital photos and video
New York, Miami, Europe, Worldwide.
Today I’m testing four of my favorite pencils on Bee Mixed Media paper. Same hand pressure, different hardnesses.
Upper left: Forever pencil (also called Infinity or Everlasting pencil). It is very lightweight and easy to carry. The mixed metal alloy tip lasts a long time. Hardness is about equivalent to a 3H lead. The one I have has an excellent eraser. I like this pencil for laying out watercolor sketches. It doesn’t smudge or bleed with water like graphite and it barely shows in the finished painting.
Upper right: vintage Sheaffer mechanical pencil with 0.9mm 2H lead. This is a twist to advance and retract the lead pencil which I prefer over a click to advance. I like the size, clean look, weight, and balance of this pencil. I fits my small hands and my fingers don’t slide down the grip as I use it. It’s a good choice for an all around everyday carry pencil that fits in my shirt pocket.
Lower left: vintage Sheaffer mechanical pencil with 0.9 2B lead. This is also a twist to advance pencil. It’s a little longer than the other Sheaffer pencil. I like that the eraser is placed at the end of the pencil instead of inside. I replaced the original eraser with a piece of white Pentel Hi-Polymer eraser. I used a 7mm core drill bit to carve out a piece the right size. Being longer, I can hold the pencil further back with a looser grip. The 2B lead gives a nice dense line for bolder drawing.
Lower right: vintage Eagle “Chemi Sealed” Draughting 314 pencil. This is my favorite pencil from my childhood. I have never found another pencil to match it. It’s a joy to use, very soft and smooth and dark similar to a 8 or 9B. It’s my magic pencil sort of like Dumbo's feather.
Just trying my hand at stop animation. It took me about an hour from start to finish, I thought it turned out alright for my first try.
I used a Nikon D80 and a Nikkor 18-70mm lense. I just used Microsoft Movie maker to compile the video. If I get more into it maybe I'll invest in better software.
My second test can be viewed here: www.flickr.com/photos/33904413@N02/3907440033/
Didn't know my test shots for my new water proof camera will become a tribute to Village People's IN THE NAVY :XD: I had no idea that an US navy battle ship visiting my city without any notice! Of cos I don't mind that :XD: cos I love those hunky soldier hunks ;)
The funny thing is Bobby Han (brownie) and Bob Hector (blonde) are both set as knight/general of the Atlantis Empire, so, of cos they r both IN THE NAVY :XD: ❤
I use the carrier as a test stand to hold rollers for running the locomotive in a stationary position. The hose on the stack is connected to a fan to provide a draft. In this testing session I set the popping pressure of the safety valves and ran the engine briefly on steam.
Speed Test - Spot the difference...;)
Left:
Sensitiser #1 (guillot-saguez formula)
Right:
Sensitiser #2 (same but with 50% less acid)
negative scan
Date: 7.11.10
Weather: Bright sunny
Light: EV 15 (zoneV)
Time: 14:00
Exposure: 2 minutes
f/stop: f/16
Camera Pointing: NE
Development: 75min .8% gallic
w.o. added silver (extra AgNO3 would have given better contrast)
Paper: Canson Marker
Iodisation: Chloro-bromo-iodized