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The switch fabricator (in Ohio) provided less than normal size ties on a 3' center to center spacing, and that required infill with regular ties. The ties for the switch stand likewise are way short, but this will be a ground throw.
En av många fördelar med vår IP67 switch är att man kan diska den med diskborste och torka den i diskstället om det behövs. Efter förra veckans mässa behövdes en grundlig rengöring.
What started life as an SW1500 is now a rusty RCPHE4 drone sitting behind the Cumberland Locomotive Shops.
CSX RCPHE4 9118
I passed by the elevator today and spied a switch engine I have never seen there before. This BNSF unit has found a new life, likely shuffling covered hoppers for loading (grain) and unloading (fertilizer). New discoveries are fun.
Things you don't really expect to happen: 1. Getting your grail. 2. Having to reshell your oldest character because said grail looks exactly like your scribbles from back then …
Here we go: My new old girl Lil …
Moving to the main at Wolverton west to come back in and pick up the container train waiting on track 3.
Photos posted to link to this car's thread on the Cadillac boards
www.cadillacforums.com/forums/classic-cadillac-forum/8854...
Last weekend, I planned to replace (or at least try) the selector shaft seal with the trans by using this tool
It is supposed to work by removing the selector arm (1 nut) and slipping the thing with the threads cut into it over the shaft. Then, you tap this tool into the old seal, screw in once it's through, and begin threading the bolt-it is supposed to bottom on the shaft and pull the old seal out. With the old seal out, you tap in a new seal with the plain tube on the right.
The shaft is somewhat accessible with the drivers wheel on the car but it seemed like an unnecessary complication so I went to remove the wheel. My garage is a 1-car that is fine for working on top, but quickly felt uncomfortable as I went to lift it. Additionally, I had put down rubber gym mats over the concrete which made chocking the other wheels impossible-so I will have to wait on this whole thing until weather is warmer and I can work outside. :banghead: I was really hoping to be able to get rid of the drip pan, but no dice. I'll let everyone know what happens and link the tool if it does in fact work on the 325-4L, no place explicitly mentioned a puller that works on this trans so I bought one that claimed compatibility to the 200-4R.
So, I decided to do what I could on the car from above. The no charge light had been sporadically flickering since I recored the radiator. I had driven the car a few months with it and it never left me with a dead battery, but time nonetheless it was time to fix it. Unfortunately I didn't take any pictures of the process, but was I ever surprised how easy it was to rebuild a 27si! I am almost insulted that they sell rebuilt versions of these, with 3 socket sizes and a paperclip you can replace literally everything minus the bearing. When I bought this car, it had a newly rebuilt alternator that worked fine but made a scraping noise when rotating. I picked up this original 100 amp unit from a junker and swapped it on in 2015.
I originally planned to only give it a new diode set, but when I cracked it open everything else looked pretty tired. So I went to my junk pile, grabbed the rebuilt one, and swapped everything else into it. I didn't do the bearing as I don't have a press, but it seemed healthy to me. I had a chance to test it out last week and the light is gone, and seems to be running about 14-14.2 volts. No fire yet!
This weekend, I again wanted to get at the seal, but a storm blew in Friday that stopped my Eldorado-ing that I had been enjoying after last weekend's rains. Coupled with the cold, there's still a lot of wind so I'm in no mood to work outside. When removing the door panel, I had accidentally broken the window switch bezel.
I glued it with some success, as it appeared that every other wreck or used part I came across had broken mounts, so replacement was not an option. That was until I was able to find a new unit with the help of the parts manual. A tip to everyone with one of these, if you are going to remove the switch assembly for whatever reason, do not disconnect the power window connection. Remove the two 4.5mm screws that hold the whole thing on first, then pry the connector off. The GM plastichrome is not the strongest stuff in the world and it will snap if you put too much force on it.
The switch part pops into the new bezel (getting the switch out completely destroyed the old bezel)
Viola!
The switches and router.
Top: Linksys EF2S16
Below that: Cisco Catalyst 1924
Under that: Cisco 2620
Bottom: Cisco Catalyst 3524-XL-EN
The cable on the 2620 is for a modem, I havent hooked it up just tested it. The blue cable coming out of the 2620 is a console cable. The console cables for the Catalysts are connected to the back.
The brakeman guards the Main St. industrial lead as an eastbound WSOR local shoves a tank car into Gehl's in Germantown. Photo by my dad.
In the center is the bank of DIP switches. Setting the 7th one to "on" (down) enables free play. Due to the angle, it's hard to make out individual switches. Full size lets you see them better.
Crew guides Heber 5926 as it switches passenger cars preparing for the evening's special event train.