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This is an other picture of our new campaign for next summer.
I took it last week at the upper terrace which is on the top of our office in Varanasi (Benaras).
Anand who is our favourite model is holding a cushion in white linen with an embroidery made of flowers and swirls and matching with the throw in the background.
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Portrait of me beside the Nimbus temperature sensor for NWS records, installed with the help of my National Weather Service supervisor. Cabled sensor sends data to readout console in the house, senses temperatures from -99.9° F to 120.9°.
La foto con sensor desnudo se parece al efecto "orange-teal", si nuestro ojo fuera igual que un sensor de cámara de fotos, veríamos el entorno así.
With really warm temperatures, our workshop students' cameras were running a little hotter than normal. No, their cameras were not exploding but I did have a little fun with it in this single exposure image captured in Arches National Park.
How I Got The Shot
This is a 20 second single exposure image where I shot for about 15 seconds with the camera locked on the tripod before releasing the camera for the final 5 seconds. During this last 5 seconds, I moved the camera free-hand using the lighted LCD screens to make the smoke.
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Vacation Day, 03/15//2022, La Guardia Airport, NY
Leica Camera AG M Monochrom
Canon 35mm f2.0 LTM
ƒ/5.6 1/4000 1600
Google Translation
AGFA first used this mechanical support of the trigger force with the red trigger on the Optima 200 sensor from 1968. The purpose was to avoid camera shake by using a lower trigger force. This red trigger then became the trademark of all AGFA cameras. In fact, people even tried to transfer this symbol into the digital age.
Here I show a few late specimens, some of which were produced in Japan.
German
AGFA setzte diese Mechanische Unterstützung der Auslösekraft mit dem Roten Auslöser erstmals bei der Optima 200 Sensor von 1968 ein. Der Sinn war durch eine geringere Auslösekraft Verwackelungs-Unschärfe zu vermeiden. Dieser Rote Auslöser wurde daraufhin das Markenzeichen aller AGFA Kameras. Tatsächlich versuchte man dieses Symbol sogar in das Digital Zeitalter zu übertragen.
Hier zeige ich ein paar späte Exemplare deren Produktion teilweise schon aus Japan kam.
The black object is a device (i believe) that indicates the change in position of the road surface relative to the bridge pylon. As long as the indicator is within the area of the plate, then by visual inspection the bridge is safe.
Nikon FG-20
Nikon Series E Lens 50mm f/1.8
ExtraFilm.com 200-36, expired 11/2010
Digibase C-41, 3.15 min @ 37.8℃
Canon CanoScan 9000F Mark II
Adobe Photoshop Elements 2019
18_20190808_034-2
I know I risked my camera's sensor burning out because of the direct intense sunlight, but I just couldn't pass this shot up. :O
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this is a result of my faulty card reader... a happy accident since I was able to re-import without the digital damage.
For the person who can't have too much electronic gear.
Part of an ongoing series on Boxes ... making useful or decorative containers out of LEGO.
Satellite: Sentinel-2. Sensor: MSI (MultiSpectral Instrument).
Visualization RGB: bands 12 (red), 11 (green), 4 (blue). False color urban.
La imagen tiene 63 km de ancho (aprox.).
Esta combinación de bandas, habitualmente utilizada para destacar las zonas urbanizadas, es también útil para los volcanes pues permite discriminar con bastante claridad las diferentes coladas de lava.
Tarso Toussidé, a broad volcanic massif at the western end of the Tibesti Range, is capped by the Toussidé stratovolcano, constructed at the western end of the 14-km-wide ignimbritic Yirrigue caldera of Pleistocene age. The 6000 km2 massif was constructed over a basement of Precambrian schists on the east and Paleozoic sandstones on the west. The summit contains numerous fumaroles and very youthful lava flows that would be of historical age in an inhabited region (Vincent 1992, pers. comm.). (volcano.si.edu/volcano.cfm?vn=225010)
Al sureste de Toussidé se encuentra la caldera Trou au Natron (la que contiene la mancha blanca y azul en la imagen) (también conocida como Doon o Doon Orei), de 8 por 6 kilómetros de ancho. Su borde, de 700 a 1.000 metros de altura, está cortado en secuencias de lavas y conos volcánicos más antiguos. En algunos lugares es casi vertical. En el interior de Trou au Natron se encuentran cuatro conos volcánicos basálticos recientes, el más notable de los cuales es el Moussosomi, de 75 metros de altura, que ha hecho erupción un flujo de lava. (es.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toussid%C3%A9)
Esta imagen ha sido procesada con el navegador EO Browser (apps.sentinel-hub.com/eo-browser) de Sentinel Hub. Sentinel Hub es un motor de procesamiento de datos satelitales, dentro del programa de observación de la Tierra Copernicus (copernicus.eu) de la Unión Europea, operado por la empresa Sinergise. EO Browser es gratuito y fácil de usar. El norte siempre está arriba.
This image has been processed using the EO Browser (apps.sentinel-hub.com/eo-browser) by Sentinel Hub. Sentinel Hub is a satellite data processing engine, within the European Union's Earth observation programme Copernicus (copernicus.eu), operated by the Sinergise company. EO Browser is free and easy to use. North is always up.
This detects motion in the front yard and there is one in the backyard. The receiver's eyes light up and a selected chime goes off. Each sensor can have its own chime. So cool.
Testing out an infrared sensor I picked off of the auction site, works pretty good. I put a 3.5 mm plug on it and hooked it to the camera axe. Model number is E18-D50NK.
Selasphorus rufus
Foveon "real" 1-1-1 sensor with Sigma 12-24 Art lens. JPG out-of-the-camera. Optical and sensor quality are IMHO much better than HDR or PP sharpening......
and I thought yesterday was a lazy shot,
today says to yesterday "lazy shot? hold my beer"
I have excuses!
1. my camera sensor is properly stuffed, dirty spots seem to multiply by the day making anything with sky in it unwatchable, Canon you hear me? why? why tf you think it is OK to sell cameras which supposed to be properly sealed for dust but which get sensor unusably dirty in 5 years flat? it's not like I am hiking in bleeping jungle changing lenses all the time. I only have one bleeping lense and I never take it off! How tf sensor gets dirty in this scenario? Canon, this is disgusting.
So my other PaDs had sky in them ..
2. my sooo very smooth run on Southern got rudely interrupted , it came to a halt, complete , apparently an accident ahead , ahead ahead, and you guessed it people have to stop right in the middle of the motorway to have a look at the accident, right? Ok I am not going to get emotional and call these people cretins and retard idiots that would be unbecoming and politically incorrect ..
So I found myself stuck in what used to be traffic and limited to shots with no sky in them ..
3. I got a bit curious , who tf this johnny character was? and why he got what looks like BBQ utensils crossed in his sign? was he a very ruthless BBQ chef or something?
well I shouldn't have googled JD when back home, now I know more about him than I really care to
other than that I have no defense
Camera for the 126 cartridge , and socket for Magicube flash on top. Made in Japan in the 1970s , with various brand names. The cameras are basically identical , with cosmetic differences . The Astral S20 has a flash sensor , and a warning light in the viewfinder . The magicube does not need a battery for firing , but the flash sensor does : in the film compartment is a space with contact points for the battery .
Amazing. I finally cleaned my sensor and I'm overjoyed with the clean skies! This is pretty much right out of the camera, no cloning out dirt spots. Taken in Felicity, CA, just this side of the Arizona boarder.
The first thing to say is that each electronic sensor has a protective filter over it, so we are not actually touching the electronics. That would be a disaster. Most people send the camera off for a service and a clean and that's a very good idea. After all this is an expensive investment and we want to make sure our camera works as well as possible for as long as it can.
But, it is quite easy to clean your sensor at home. All you need is a kit (like the one I've shown). This includes sealed sterile swabs and a little cleaning fluid (they are essential - do not try to clean your sensor with a cloth where you can scratch the dust into the sensor filter). There are also many videos on YouTube showing you how to use these dust cleaning swabs, but provided you get the right size for your camera (mine is full frame) a simple swipe will suffice.
For a DSLR you obviously need to lock your mirror up before the clean, and then lower it immediately afterwards. Then with the other side of the swab give your mirror a quick wipe as well. Do not apply too much pressure. After all, these are only tiny dust particles - you should not have any dirt.
My Leica D-Lux 7 which I used to take these pictures has a fixed lens, so it will never need its micro-four-thirds sensor cleaned.
Introduction to CMOS Image Sensors
evidentscientific.com/en/microscope-resource/knowledge-hu...