View allAll Photos Tagged Sensor
MOC: Sensor GTR. A variation of the theme from my previous Supercar - I wanted to see if I could build something a supercar that looked a bit more like it was meant for the road than for the track. Very happy with the result.
Olympus E-500 ( KODAK CCD sensor ) + Olympus Zuiko Digital ED 50mm f/2.0 Macro
OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA
this in my opinion is the best way to clean your camera sensor by putting it in the washing machine :D My wide angle wasn't even wide enough for this shot!! because I wanted to get more of the washing machine in... im going to coin this type of shot: SIWM (shooting inside a washing machine) please post your versions from inside your machines.
this is still....yes still in explore www.flickr.com/photos/36766427@N05/4054588030/
the view from our campsite looking south towards bempton cliffs just a few birds can be seen
PLEASE CLICK ON PHOTO FOR FULL SIZED VIEW
Manufactured by Agfa Kamerawerk AG, Munich, West Germany
Model: c.1970, (all models of Silette produced between 1953-1974)
Agfa logo on the front of the camera: black relief
35 mm film Viewfinder camera
Lens:Agfa Color - Agnar 45mm f/2.8
Aperture: f/2.8 -f /22 , stepless allowing for easy adjustment with the TTL meter
setting: ring and scale on the back of the lens
Focusing: front ring manual focus, w/ DOF scale
Focus range: 1-5m +inf.
Shutter: Parator speeds: 30, 60, 125, 300 +B, extremely quiet
setting : ring and scale on the lens
Shutter release: Red "Sensor" shutter release button,
very smooth and sensitive so no camera shake
Cable release socket: on the back of the top plate
Exposure meter: TTL (coupled to the lens) Selenium Optima 200 Sensor (working !.)
Exposure setting: via 1- the small needle window on the top plate, 2- the indicator in the viewfinder, set the speed and turn the aperture ring
Film speed range: ASA 25-400 (DIN 15-27), setting knob and scales on the lens
View finder: bright frame finder,
Cocking lever: also winds the film, short stroke, on the left of the bottom plate
Frame counter: advance type, manual reset by a button behind the counter window, on the bottom plate
Re-wind release and re-winding: the black lever marked R and arrow on the right lower side of the lens releases and engages the reversing gear
thus the cocking and winding lever is the re-wind lever now
Flash PC socket: none, you can use a flash sync. cord with an Agfa flash adapter
Hot-shoe: flash sync. bulbs 1/30, electronic all speeds
Self-timer: none
Back cover: hinged, opens by a latch on the right side of the camera
Film loading: special easy quick loading system
Body: metal
Tripod socket: 1/4''
serial no. LW 6837 BC
The Silette series' rangefinder models were called Super Silette. There was also an interchangeable lens rangefinder model called the Ambi Silette.
My latest acquisition. Very nice compact camera. Large, bright viewfinder.
The Agfa Optima sensor electronic was identical to the Agfa Optima 535 Sensor electronic and — like the Agfa Optima sensor Flash - produced in Portugal.
Manufactured in 1982.
Lens: Agfa Solitar 40mm / 1:2.8
Shutter: 1/30 sec. to 1/500
Aperture range: 2.8 to 22
Dimensions: 104 × 70 × 56 mm
Weight: 265 g
Batteries: 3 x alkaline / silver oxide 625G
Information retrieved from this website (in German), which also features beautiful photos of all the 1970s Agfa Optima line.
Another good read (in English) is the Agfa Optima 1535 page on Alfred's Camera Page.
This is the short-range planetary sensor dome. Above the bridge is the stellar array, while long-range sensors are arranged around the navigational deflector, pointing only in the direction of travel.
Agfa Optima 200 Sensor (second version).
German viewfinder camera produced c.1969.
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At this stage I still had not found a way to remove the Topcover (I have by now) so decided to remove the Paratic Shutter.
These 4 screws hold it to the Body.
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WARNING :
This image is intended as a reference for the more experienced camera service man. If you have no experience in camera repair please do yourself a favor and send your camera to a professional service shop. It would be a pity to lose a vintage camera in a failed repair attempt !
Seen on Flickr EXPLORE - # 376 - September 22, 2017, click here
Green trees on a suburban street in the morning sunlight. This picture is straight out from the camera, no processing except darken a the brightness a bit. What I call the magic of the CCD Sensor, no longer used in digital cameras.
Made with the Pentax Optio Z-10 point and shoot.
Made in ?? ; 1978 - ... . For 126 cassette . Simple viewfinder camera with fixed focus and aperture . Two shutter speeds . Socket for flipflash flashbulb bar .
Sensors get dirty, it is impossible to change lens and keep them clean...
Mine has to be cleaned two times a year or more.
When you choose smaller apertures, the dirt spots show shamelessly. In one of my last photos, www.flickr.com/photos/henrique_silva/6600173785/, the aperture was f/36 and so every little tiny bit of dirt was showing, I spent a little time in Lightroom cleaning them, but there are still some in the picture... It was urgent to clean the 40D's sensor
Again I went trough this delicate process, I use Sensor Scope from Delkin Devices, it works well, it uses a combination of vacuum cleaner and moistened sensor wands to get the job done. Here is a before / after mosaic, it is not completly clean, but in fact there is a compromise between having the sensor damaged or have one or two dust spots...
If you want to know more about the process, I will be happy to answer!
Check your sensor for dust!
a - Create a new image in Photoshop or any other application and fill it with white
b - Set your camera to Aperture Priority, ISO100, and aperture to it's minimum f/22 - f/45
c - Set lens focus to Manual, and focus to closest possible
d - Shoot in raw or if in jpeg, turn off special image processing functions
e - Zoom in until the photoshop image fills your camera focusing screen
f - Shoot camera facing the white image on your monitor, and during this exposure, move your camera back and fourth being careful to not to point the lens outside of your white image. You can also zoom in in the image...
g - Process your image, adjust contrast, brightness, clarity, whatever, so that you get a clear view of the dirt spots!
h - Now you can go through the cleaning process - remember that what shows on the bottom of the image will be towards the top of the camera sensor...
i - Repeat the process from a to g and if you are happy with the result, then you are done; otherwise, repeat again... this time I had to make three swab cleanings. It is preferable to clean gently several times than applying to much force.
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Technical Info:
Camera: Canon EOS 40D
Lens: EF-S15-85mm f/3.5-5.6 IS USM
Focal Length: 40 mm
Sensitivity: ISO 100
Exposure: 0,3 sec at f/22
Exposure bias: 0 EV
Exposure Program: Aperture priority
Metering Mode: Pattern
Flash: no flash
GPS
Coordinates:
Altitude:
©Henrique Silva, all rights reserved - no reproduction without prior permission
I have had some dust stuck on my sensor since getting my A7III and sadly the rocket blower couldn't remove it. I usually pay to get my sensor cleaned but decided to give cleaning it myself a try and I'm glad I did.
Los 13699 fotogramas restantes se pueden ver acá:
Y de yapa, un bellísimo collage inspirado en esos fotogramas:
M240 / 50 Summilux
Thank you for visiting and viewing.
Jim
No Usage Authorized Without Prior Written Permission.
©2015 Jim Servies Photography
All Rights Reserved.
El sensor que está en segundo plano es inductivo y detecta cuando el piñón de ataque del prelanzador está en reposo (LED verde) y cuando está accionado (LED rojo). Este único LED está encima del panel de instrumentos al lado del cuenta revoluciones del rotor y se ilumina en verde o rojo según el sensor detecta o no el piñón de ataque. Es un elemento que nos indica que una vez prelanzado, el piñón a descendido completamente y se puede iniciar el despegue al pasar de color rojo a color verde.
Manufactured by Agfa Kamerawerk AG, Munich, West Germany
Model: c.1970, (all models of Silette produced between 1953-1974)
Agfa logo on the front of the camera: black relief
35 mm film Viewfinder camera
Lens:Agfa Color - Agnar 45mm f/2.8
Aperture: f/2.8 -f /22 , stepless allowing for easy adjustment with the TTL meter
setting: ring and scale on the back of the lens
Focusing: front ring manual focus, w/ DOF scale
Focus range: 1-5m +inf.
Shutter: Parator speeds: 30, 60, 125, 300 +B, extremely quiet
setting : ring and scale on the lens
Shutter release: Red "Sensor" shutter release button,
very smooth and sensitive so no camera shake
Cable release socket: on the back of the top plate
Exposure meter: TTL (coupled to the lens) Selenium Optima 200 Sensor (working !.)
Exposure setting: via 1- the small needle window on the top plate, 2- the indicator in the viewfinder, set the speed and turn the aperture ring
Film speed range: ASA 25-400 (DIN 15-27), setting knob and scales on the lens
View finder: bright frame finder,
Cocking lever: also winds the film, short stroke, on the left of the bottom plate
Frame counter: advance type, manual reset by a button behind the counter window, on the bottom plate
Re-wind release and re-winding: the black lever marked R and arrow on the right lower side of the lens releases and engages the reversing gear
thus the cocking and winding lever is the re-wind lever now
Flash PC socket: none, you can use a flash sync. cord with an Agfa flash adapter
Hot-shoe: flash sync. bulbs 1/30, electronic all speeds
Self-timer: none
Back cover: hinged, opens by a latch on the right side of the camera
Film loading: special easy quick loading system
Body: metal
Tripod socket: 1/4''
serial no. LW 6837 BC
The Silette series' rangefinder models were called Super Silette. There was also an interchangeable lens rangefinder model called the Ambi Silette.
Agfa Optima Sensor compact 35mm camera
Specifications:-
Type: 35mm compact camera
Size: 104 mm x 68 mm x 54 mm (W x H x D)
Image Format: 24 x 36 mm (W x H)
Lens: Agfa Solitar, 40 mm f/2.8
Diaphragm: Automatic f/2.8 to f/22
Focusing: Manual scale pictograms on top of the focus ring/ meter/feet scale on bottom, focusing 3ft/1.09m - infinity
Shutter Speeds: 1/500 second - 15 seconds
Viewfinder: Large direct finder with parallax marks for near focus
Film Loading: Manual
Film Transport: Manual single stroke lever, also used to rewind film when the 'R' button is depressed and turned
Film Speeds: 25 ASA/15 DIN to 500 ASA/28 DIN, selected on a ring around the lens
Flash Contact: Hot shoe, aperture selected manually with flash
Cable Release Socket: On left hand side of the camera body
Tripod Socket: 1/4 in. on right hand side which doubles as camera strap attachment
Battery: 3 V625U batteries, located by opening the camera back
One of my Fuji X-Pro1 bodies is broken. It will power up, take a few shots, and then shut down. When I try to turn it on, it sometimes gives a message that says to turn the camera off and try turning it on again. I have also noticed a large, diffuse, white defect in the upper right quadrant of the sensor.
I later concluded that I had damaged my sensor while shooting a solar eclipse. Rather than repairing the camera, I decided to replace it with a Fuji X-Pro2.