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My latest acquisition. Very nice compact camera. Large, bright viewfinder.
The Agfa Optima sensor electronic was identical to the Agfa Optima 535 Sensor electronic and — like the Agfa Optima sensor Flash - produced in Portugal.
Manufactured in 1982.
Lens: Agfa Solitar 40mm / 1:2.8
Shutter: 1/30 sec. to 1/500
Aperture range: 2.8 to 22
Dimensions: 104 × 70 × 56 mm
Weight: 265 g
Batteries: 3 x alkaline / silver oxide 625G
Information retrieved from this website (in German), which also features beautiful photos of all the 1970s Agfa Optima line.
Another good read (in English) is the Agfa Optima 1535 page on Alfred's Camera Page.
Manufactured by Agfa Kamerawerk AG, Munich, West Germany
Model: c.1970, (all models of Silette produced between 1953-1974)
Agfa logo on the front of the camera: black relief
35 mm film Viewfinder camera
Lens:Agfa Color - Agnar 45mm f/2.8
Aperture: f/2.8 -f /22 , stepless allowing for easy adjustment with the TTL meter
setting: ring and scale on the back of the lens
Focusing: front ring manual focus, w/ DOF scale
Focus range: 1-5m +inf.
Shutter: Parator speeds: 30, 60, 125, 300 +B, extremely quiet
setting : ring and scale on the lens
Shutter release: Red "Sensor" shutter release button,
very smooth and sensitive so no camera shake
Cable release socket: on the back of the top plate
Exposure meter: TTL (coupled to the lens) Selenium Optima 200 Sensor (working !.)
Exposure setting: via 1- the small needle window on the top plate, 2- the indicator in the viewfinder, set the speed and turn the aperture ring
Film speed range: ASA 25-400 (DIN 15-27), setting knob and scales on the lens
View finder: bright frame finder,
Cocking lever: also winds the film, short stroke, on the left of the bottom plate
Frame counter: advance type, manual reset by a button behind the counter window, on the bottom plate
Re-wind release and re-winding: the black lever marked R and arrow on the right lower side of the lens releases and engages the reversing gear
thus the cocking and winding lever is the re-wind lever now
Flash PC socket: none, you can use a flash sync. cord with an Agfa flash adapter
Hot-shoe: flash sync. bulbs 1/30, electronic all speeds
Self-timer: none
Back cover: hinged, opens by a latch on the right side of the camera
Film loading: special easy quick loading system
Body: metal
Tripod socket: 1/4''
serial no. LW 6837 BC
The Silette series' rangefinder models were called Super Silette. There was also an interchangeable lens rangefinder model called the Ambi Silette.
These two Olympus DSLRs are some of the most interesting cameras in my collection. They were made in the years when digital SLRs had not yet taken their definitive form, and manufacturers experimented a lot with the look and design of their cameras. The E-300 has a Kodak CCD-sensor, while the later E-330 was already built on a conventional CMOS-sensor (it was Olympus' first CMOS-sensor SLR). While the E-330 is ergonomically and technically more advanced than the E-300, for example, it has a large tilt LCD screen, the OK button to confirm selection is in the center of the joypad, the E-300 still has a more "expensive" look and more pleasant tactile feel, thanks to the metal body parts and overall monolithic construction. But most importantly, the Kodak CCD-sensor gives more beautiful photos, than CMOS sensor, without much trouble with processing. These cameras have 8 megapixel sensors and even today are suitable for high quality shooting, despite the 4/3 format, thanks to the quality of the Olympus lenses. Notice the Porro prism viewfinder system, and the mirror that shifts sideways rather than upward as on traditional DSLRs. These cameras cost next to nothing today, and it allows you to try these fun, vintage technologies almost for free. I highly recommend you try these cameras, especially the E-300.
Agfa Optima 200 Sensor (second version).
German viewfinder camera produced c.1969.
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A view on the Body with the Meter Unit removed.
There is a (copper?) Disk there (see red arrow).
Probably only to protect the underside of the Meter. Maybe also against EM interference ??
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WARNING :
This image is intended as a reference for the more experienced camera service man. If you have no experience in camera repair please do yourself a favor and send your camera to a professional service shop. It would be a pity to lose a vintage camera in a failed repair attempt !
Sensors get dirty, it is impossible to change lens and keep them clean...
Mine has to be cleaned two times a year or more.
When you choose smaller apertures, the dirt spots show shamelessly. In one of my last photos, www.flickr.com/photos/henrique_silva/6600173785/, the aperture was f/36 and so every little tiny bit of dirt was showing, I spent a little time in Lightroom cleaning them, but there are still some in the picture... It was urgent to clean the 40D's sensor
Again I went trough this delicate process, I use Sensor Scope from Delkin Devices, it works well, it uses a combination of vacuum cleaner and moistened sensor wands to get the job done. Here is a before / after mosaic, it is not completly clean, but in fact there is a compromise between having the sensor damaged or have one or two dust spots...
If you want to know more about the process, I will be happy to answer!
Check your sensor for dust!
a - Create a new image in Photoshop or any other application and fill it with white
b - Set your camera to Aperture Priority, ISO100, and aperture to it's minimum f/22 - f/45
c - Set lens focus to Manual, and focus to closest possible
d - Shoot in raw or if in jpeg, turn off special image processing functions
e - Zoom in until the photoshop image fills your camera focusing screen
f - Shoot camera facing the white image on your monitor, and during this exposure, move your camera back and fourth being careful to not to point the lens outside of your white image. You can also zoom in in the image...
g - Process your image, adjust contrast, brightness, clarity, whatever, so that you get a clear view of the dirt spots!
h - Now you can go through the cleaning process - remember that what shows on the bottom of the image will be towards the top of the camera sensor...
i - Repeat the process from a to g and if you are happy with the result, then you are done; otherwise, repeat again... this time I had to make three swab cleanings. It is preferable to clean gently several times than applying to much force.
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Technical Info:
Camera: Canon EOS 40D
Lens: EF-S15-85mm f/3.5-5.6 IS USM
Focal Length: 40 mm
Sensitivity: ISO 100
Exposure: 0,3 sec at f/22
Exposure bias: 0 EV
Exposure Program: Aperture priority
Metering Mode: Pattern
Flash: no flash
GPS
Coordinates:
Altitude:
©Henrique Silva, all rights reserved - no reproduction without prior permission
"Magic Wire" is so called because of detecting proximity to antenna.
THE MAGIC WIRE
As shown in the diagram, the input tube is a type 6R7 duo-diode triode. The triode section forms the oscillator, in conjunction with the coil L1 which is center-tapped to the cathode. When the triode section is oscillating, the r.f. voltage developed from cathode to ground is impressed on the diode section, causing current to flow through R2 and making the diode plates negative with respect to ground. The control grid of the 25L6 power tube is connected to the diode plates of the 6R7 and consequently a negative bias is placed on the grid which reduces its plate current to a very low value. As soon as the triode ceases to oscillate, there is no longer any r.f. voltage applied to the diodes, the voltage drops and the 25L6 draws high plate current, causing the relay to operate.
It will be noted that no rectifier tube or filler circuit is required in this design, yet the instrument functions on either a.c. or d.c. On a.c., the 6R7 oscillations and the 25L6 draws plate current only on the positive half-cycles. This principle effects a considerable saving in construction cost and in the size of the instrument.
After the parts required have been obtained, the first step in building the unit is to make the chassis, which consists simply of a piece of 16-gauge aluminum or steel bent and drilled in accordance with the plan shown. The front panel, which is included with the standard 6 by 6 cabinet, is drilled and a hole and grommet are placed in the rear panel. The oscillator coil is made by winding 100 turns of No.28 d.c.c. wire on a one-inch bakelite tube 3-1/4 inches long. A tap is brought out at the center of the winding. When the winding has been completed, the entire coil is dipped in a hot half-and-half mixture of beeswax and paraffin to keep the winding in place and exclude moisture. The sensitivity of the outfit is largely dependent upon the efficiency of the coil, so it should be carefully made. C1 is mounted on a small piece of 1/8-inch bakelite, because it must be insulated from the panel.
Wire the chassis first, starting with the heater circuits. Do not connect in the power cord until all wiring has been completed. The shield of the 25L6 is connected to its cathode, the shield of the 6E7 to the heater terminal which goes directly to the line. When all the main wiring has been completed, bring the power cord through the rear panel hole, and solder the three terminals to the terminal strip. The antenna wire is brought in through a rubber-grommeted hole in the top of the cabinet and connected to the stator or plate terminal of C1. A knot in the wire will relieve any strain on this connection. Stranded wire is preferred for the antenna.
The capacitances of C1 and C2 are largely dependent upon the length of antenna wire desired. If only 4 or 5 feet are required, C2 may be omitted. On the other hand, if the wire exceeds 15 feet, C2 will have to be larger than the value given. If the capacitance of C1 were made large (say 150 mmf. or more), C2 could of course be omitted but then the adjustment would become too critical.
The relay employed is a 3,000-ohm plug-in type of standard manufacture. It is a double-pole model and will handle a non-inductive load of 100 watts. It is somewhat more sensitive than is required and any other good relay of 1,000 ohms or more resistance should be suitable. The capacitor, C4, is shunted across the relay coil to prevent chattering. It may be advisable, in some cases, to put a 0.1 mf. paper capacitor across the relay contacts to stop sparking on heavy loads. It is better practice, however, to use a separate power relay when operating any but light loads.
In operation, the antenna wire is strung out well away from grounded metal objects and a 110-volt lamp is plugged into the outlet on the panel. When the tubes have heated, the lamp should light when the antenna wire is touched. If it lights without touching the wire, C2 should be screwed down until the lamp goes out. These adjustments should be made with C1 about one-half mashed. The panel may then screwed in on the cabinet and final adjustment made. This is done by gradually adjusting the vernier knob of the dial until the light remains lit when adjusting but goes out when the hand is removed from the dial. This may be carried to a point where the light will flash as soon as one approaches within 3 feet of the wire or instrument. It is better not to aim for such sensitivity, though, since it will vary somewhat with line voltage. A good, practical and stable point is about six to fifteen minutes or so for the instrument to acquire a stable point of operation owing to its sensitivity.
PARTS REQUIRED
C1 - Midget variable capacitor, 60 mmf. (see text)
C2 - Trimmer capacitor, 35 mmf. or more (see text)
C3 - Tubular paper capacitor, 0.05 mf. or more, 200 v.
C4 - Electrolytic capacitor, 10 mf., 100 V.
R1 - Carbon resistor, 5 meg, 1 watt
R2 - Carbon resistor, 1 meg., 1 watt
R4 - Wire-wound resistor, 5,000 ohms, 10 watts
R5 - Wire-wound resistor, 10,000 ohms, 10 watts
1 -- Steel cabinet 6x6x6 inches, front & back panels removable
1 -- Piece 16-gauge aluminum, for chassis 5-1/2 x 7-3/4 inches
1 -- Piece bakelite tubing, 1 inch diameter., 3-1/2 inches long
1 -- Piece bakelite, 1'1/2 x 1-1/2, 1/8 inch thick for C1
2 -- Octal wafer sockets, 1-1/2 inches center for mounting holes
1 -- 5-prong wafer socket, 1-1/2 inches center for mounting holes
1 -- Relay, Utah type RAC-110, 3,000 ohm
1 -- 6R7 metal tube
1 -- 25L6 metal tube
1 -- Kurz-Kasch vernier dial, small
1 -- Resistor line cord, 280 ohms (R3)
1 -- Single outlet receptacle
Miscellaneous screws, nuts, mounting bracket, and grommets.
- James P Hughes
These two Olympus DSLRs are some of the most interesting cameras in my collection. They were made in the years when digital SLRs had not yet taken their definitive form, and manufacturers experimented a lot with the look and design of their cameras. The E-300 has a Kodak CCD-sensor, while the later E-330 was already built on a conventional CMOS-sensor (it was Olympus' first CMOS-sensor SLR). While the E-330 is ergonomically and technically more advanced than the E-300, for example, it has a large tilt LCD screen, the OK button to confirm selection is in the center of the joypad, the E-300 still has a more "expensive" look and more pleasant tactile feel, thanks to the metal body parts and overall monolithic construction. But most importantly, the Kodak CCD-sensor gives more beautiful photos, than CMOS sensor, without much trouble with processing. These cameras have 8 megapixel sensors and even today are suitable for high quality shooting, despite the 4/3 format, thanks to the quality of the Olympus lenses. Notice the Porro prism viewfinder system, and the mirror that shifts sideways rather than upward as on traditional DSLRs. These cameras cost next to nothing today, and it allows you to try these fun, vintage technologies almost for free. I highly recommend you try these cameras, especially the E-300.
This is the short-range planetary sensor dome. Above the bridge is the stellar array, while long-range sensors are arranged around the navigational deflector, pointing only in the direction of travel.
Los 13699 fotogramas restantes se pueden ver acá:
Y de yapa, un bellísimo collage inspirado en esos fotogramas:
I have had some dust stuck on my sensor since getting my A7III and sadly the rocket blower couldn't remove it. I usually pay to get my sensor cleaned but decided to give cleaning it myself a try and I'm glad I did.
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***** Selected for sale in the GETTY IMAGES COLLECTION on Friday 26th September 2024
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Photograph taken at an altitude of Two hundred and forty metres at 15.14pm on Tuesday May 7th 2024 off South Street in Rhayader, Mid-Wales from the Low level professional photography hide at Gigrin Farm feeding station.
The Red Kite (Milvus Milvus) is a medium sized bird of prey (Raptor) in the Accipitridae family, and was saved from national extinction by a long running protection programme. It has now been successfully re-introduced into England and Scotland, and Wales, and they are listed under schedule 1 of the Wildlife and Countryside act, currently with a green status.
They can reach 66cms in length with up to a 195cms wingspan, and there around 4,600 breeding pairs in the UK in 2024.
Nikon D850 Single-lens reflex digital camera F Mount with FX CMOS 35.9mm x 23.9mm Image sensor 46.89 Million total pixels Hand held Focal length: 600mm Shutter speed: 1/5000s (Mechanical shutter) Aperture f/9.0 Auto iso800 Tamron Vibration Control set to position 1 Image area Full Frame FX (36 x 24) NEF RAW L 45.4Million pixels (8256 x 5504) 14 Bit uncompressed Focus mode: AF-C Priority Selection: Release Nikon Back button focusing enabled AF-Focus area: 3D Tracking watch area: Normal 55 Tracking points Exposure mode: Manual mode Metering mode: Centre weighted metering Active D-Lighting: Normal White balance on: Natural light auto, 0, 0 Colour space: Adobe RGB Picture control: (SD) Standard (Sharpening +3.00/Clarity +1.00)
Tamron SP 150-600mm F/5-6.3 Di VC USD G2. Nikon GP-1 GPS module. Hoodman HEYENRG round eyepiece oversized eyecup. Black Rapid Curve Breathe strap. My Memory 128GB Class 10 SDXC 80MB/s card. Lowepro Flipside 400 AW camera bag. Nikon EN-EL15a battery.
LATITUDE: N 52d 17m 49.50s
LONGITUDE: W 3d 29m 42.10s
ALTITUDE: 240.0m
RAW (TIFF) FILE: 130.00MB NEF: 93.4MB
PROCESSED (JPeg) FILE: 30.00MB
PROCESSING POWER:
Nikon D850 Firmware versions C 1.21 (8/12/2022) LD Distortion Data 2.018 (16/01/20) LF 1.00 Nikon Codec Full version 1.31.2 (09/11/2021)
HP 110-352na Desktop PC with Windows 10 Home edition AMD Quad-Core A6-5200 APU 64Bit processor. Radeon HD8400 graphics. 8 GB DDR3 Memory with 1TB Data storage. 64-bit Windows 10. My Passport USB 3.0 2TB portable desktop hard drive. Nikon NX STUDIO 64bit Version 1.2.2 (08/12/2022). Nikon Capture NX-D 64bit Version 1.6.2 (18/02/2020). Nikon Picture Control Utility 2 (Version 2.4.5 (18/02/2020). Nikon Transfer 2 Version 2.16.0 (08/12/2022). Adobe photoshop Elements 8 Version 8.0 64bit.
After great demand and lots of encouragement from friend photographers, the result of this very work intensive project is finally available. Please check your respective amazon online store.
The paperback version is recommended over the kindle version
Content:
This book is unique, in that it focuses on greatly improving photography skills, both for amateurs and professionals, by understanding the image sensor & camera operation and the impact of parameters changes on image quality.
Are you one of those photographers who continuously fights excessive image noise when shooting birds-in-flight, a photographer who would like to understand why certain camera and lens settings do a great job and others don’t, or, are you a photographer who fails in creating top quality images, independent of the circumstances? Then stop looking, because you have found your comprehensively written expert guide, created by image sensor specialist George F. Vittman, PhD, who has worked with world-renowned specialists in the field since the mid-1980ies, and who is also an outstanding and award-winning photographer.
Without going into too much technical detail, this book introduces the basic image sensor operation, and it devotes a large fraction to the study of visible image noise. What is noise caused by, what is its dependence on the 3 camera exposure parameters, shutter time, lens aperture and ISO-value, how does post-processing affect noise, and most importantly, how can the image noise be minimized under different circumstances. Besides image noise, this book also reveals little known secrets regarding auto-focus, camera operation and optics, and it gives image sensor based recommendations for a camera choice in the different fields of photography.
Hatte ich folgendes nicht schon an anderer Stelle geschrieben?
1. Beim Filmtransport verschwindet der belichtete Film hinter einer Klappe, so ist er bei versehentlichem Öffnen geschützt.
2. Man spult den Film mit dem Schnellschalthebel zurück, nachdem man vorher einen Umschaltknopf betätigt hat!
3. Die Auslösung über den roten Sensor-Punkt ist wirklich sehr sanft und erschütterungsfrei.
Richtig! Diese drei exklusiven Merkmale der Selectronic Sensor findet man später wieder in den genial designten Optima-sensor-electronic-Modellen.
Der äußerliche Unterschied fällt natürlich sofort ins Auge. Die Selectronic sensor hatte die recht konventionelle, für die damalige Zeit aber moderne sachliche Form der Optima 500 fortgesetzt. Ein großer Erfolg war die die Selectronic nicht, aber das Innenleben hatte sich so bewährt, dass es mit kleinen Abwandlungen für die Optima Sensor electronic übernommen wurde.
Während aber die neuen Optimas einen voll programmierten Paratronic-Verschluss besaßen (man hatte keinen Einfluss auf Belichtungszeit und Blende), war die Selectronic sensor ein Zeitautomat: Die Blende wird vorgewählt, die Zeit dazu wird von der Kamera errechnet und eingestellt. Beide Werte sieht man im Sucher. Dieses System gefällt mir viel besser.
Es gab noch die Selectronic "S", die mit dem Vierlinser Solinar statt mit dem Dreilinser Apotar ausgerüstet war und außerdem einen Messsucher besaß.
Die Selectronic kostete 1971 349,- DM, die Selectronic S 449,- DM.
Olympus E-500 ( KODAK CCD sensor ) + Olympus Zuiko Digital ED 50mm f/2.0 Macro
OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA
Camera introduced in 1971 ; made in Germany . For the 126 cassette. Magicube flash socket .Of the 3 copies that I have , I noticed a difference in the place of the eye for the carrying strap , and a difference in text indicating the film in the compartment .
Snapped a few shots with the EPL-5 today, here's one of my broken sensor.. No clue as to how it happened. Read a similar story on mu-43.com a few months back, apparently it was covered under warranty. We shall see!
The dirt is actually just some spit or something from the numerous people interested at the shop I got the camera at. They of course haven't seen this happen yet.
M240 / 50 Summilux
Thank you for visiting and viewing.
Jim
No Usage Authorized Without Prior Written Permission.
©2015 Jim Servies Photography
All Rights Reserved.
Satellite: Sentinel-2. Sensor: MSI (MultiSpectral Instrument).
Visualization RGB: bands 4 (red), 3 (green), 2 (blue). True color.
La imagen tiene 33 km de ancho (aprox.)
Waw an Namus se encuentra en el mismísimo centro geográfico de Libia, en el corazón más hostil e infernal del desierto del Sáhara. El oasis en sí tiene una anchura de 4 kilómetros, rodeada por un área mucho más amplia de tierra negra que contrasta con el color pálido de las arenas del desierto más grande del planeta. En su interior brillan las aguas de tres pequeños lagos salados. (ruta-33.blogspot.com/2013/12/waw-namus-un-oasis-en-un-cra...)
Esta imagen ha sido procesada con el navegador EO Browser (apps.sentinel-hub.com/eo-browser) de Sentinel Hub. Sentinel Hub es un motor de procesamiento de datos satelitales, dentro del programa de observación de la Tierra Copernicus (copernicus.eu) de la Unión Europea, operado por la empresa Sinergise. EO Browser es gratuito y fácil de usar. El norte siempre está arriba.
This image has been processed using the EO Browser (apps.sentinel-hub.com/eo-browser) by Sentinel Hub. Sentinel Hub is a satellite data processing engine, within the European Union's Earth observation programme Copernicus (copernicus.eu), operated by the Sinergise company. EO Browser is free and easy to use. North is always up.
Manufactured by Agfa Kamerawerk AG, Munich, West Germany
Model: c.1970, (all models of Silette produced between 1953-1974)
Agfa logo on the front of the camera: black relief
35 mm film Viewfinder camera
Lens:Agfa Color - Agnar 45mm f/2.8
Aperture: f/2.8 -f /22 , stepless allowing for easy adjustment with the TTL meter
setting: ring and scale on the back of the lens
Focusing: front ring manual focus, w/ DOF scale
Focus range: 1-5m +inf.
Shutter: Parator speeds: 30, 60, 125, 300 +B, extremely quiet
setting : ring and scale on the lens
Shutter release: Red "Sensor" shutter release button,
very smooth and sensitive so no camera shake
Cable release socket: on the back of the top plate
Exposure meter: TTL (coupled to the lens) Selenium Optima 200 Sensor (working !.)
Exposure setting: via 1- the small needle window on the top plate, 2- the indicator in the viewfinder, set the speed and turn the aperture ring
Film speed range: ASA 25-400 (DIN 15-27), setting knob and scales on the lens
View finder: bright frame finder,
Cocking lever: also winds the film, short stroke, on the left of the bottom plate
Frame counter: advance type, manual reset by a button behind the counter window, on the bottom plate
Re-wind release and re-winding: the black lever marked R and arrow on the right lower side of the lens releases and engages the reversing gear
thus the cocking and winding lever is the re-wind lever now
Flash PC socket: none, you can use a flash sync. cord with an Agfa flash adapter
Hot-shoe: flash sync. bulbs 1/30, electronic all speeds
Self-timer: none
Back cover: hinged, opens by a latch on the right side of the camera
Film loading: special easy quick loading system
Body: metal
Tripod socket: 1/4''
serial no. LW 6837 BC
The Silette series' rangefinder models were called Super Silette. There was also an interchangeable lens rangefinder model called the Ambi Silette.
Agfa Optima Sensor compact 35mm camera
Specifications:-
Type: 35mm compact camera
Size: 104 mm x 68 mm x 54 mm (W x H x D)
Image Format: 24 x 36 mm (W x H)
Lens: Agfa Solitar, 40 mm f/2.8
Diaphragm: Automatic f/2.8 to f/22
Focusing: Manual scale pictograms on top of the focus ring/ meter/feet scale on bottom, focusing 3ft/1.09m - infinity
Shutter Speeds: 1/500 second - 15 seconds
Viewfinder: Large direct finder with parallax marks for near focus
Film Loading: Manual
Film Transport: Manual single stroke lever, also used to rewind film when the 'R' button is depressed and turned
Film Speeds: 25 ASA/15 DIN to 500 ASA/28 DIN, selected on a ring around the lens
Flash Contact: Hot shoe, aperture selected manually with flash
Cable Release Socket: On left hand side of the camera body
Tripod Socket: 1/4 in. on right hand side which doubles as camera strap attachment
Battery: 3 V625U batteries, located by opening the camera back
One of my Fuji X-Pro1 bodies is broken. It will power up, take a few shots, and then shut down. When I try to turn it on, it sometimes gives a message that says to turn the camera off and try turning it on again. I have also noticed a large, diffuse, white defect in the upper right quadrant of the sensor.
I later concluded that I had damaged my sensor while shooting a solar eclipse. Rather than repairing the camera, I decided to replace it with a Fuji X-Pro2.
My cat Luna, shot on my sigma dp2 quattro, no post production done except the conversion to b/w. Lots of drama straight out of the camera.
I came across this interesting comparison on the internet today. I'm toying with the idea of getting another compact camera and at present it's a toss up between the Sony 100 iii (still available though newer models have been released) and the not yet released Panasonic TZ90.
The Sony has a 1" sensor whilst the Panasonic has a 1/2.3" sensor; this is somewhat outweighed by the Panasonic's longer optical zoom range and more flexible screen.
Given the generally poor performance of my Ricoh GR4 (which has a 1/1.7'' sensor) compared with my iPhone 6 (1/3'' sensor) perhaps I don't need another compact camera anyway.
Scintillating glass optical fibers are the first viable medium for large-area, solid-state, thermal neutron sensors that have applications in national security, medicine, and materials research. Here, ultraviolet-induced fluorescence mimics scintillation.
For more information, visit www.pnl.gov/news/
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