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A selection of resistors on a circuit board, from our article about resistors.
Our images are published under a Creative Commons Licence (see opposite) and are free for noncommercial use. We also license our images for commercial use. Please contact us directly via our website for more details.
[crosseye stereograph, see 3D with your right eye on the left image, and left on right.]
LOS ANGELES METROPOLITAN TRANSIT AUTHORITY #1543
These were the "Balloon Cars" of the high speed Interurban, multiple unit, electric trains of Southern California's Pacific Electric, the famous "Big Red Cars". This car made it's last run April 6.1961, from Los Angeles, 6th and Main (where now stands a bus terminal) to Long Beach, CA at Ocean and Long Beach Blvd. just a block from The Pike. There was an elevated wooden trestle that allowed it to bridge dense downtown automotive traffic, then it came down to street level just short of Alameda and curved South to Long Beach Avenue. When it got to Clement's Junction (Washington Street) the roadbed opened up to four tracks, on the outside was the South and North bound Local Service using smaller cars. The interior pair of the four track sets was reserved for strings of these heavy, high speed electric commuter trains. The private right of way was four tracks through Watts and down to Long Beach Blvd., where these cars would then ride down the center of the street to downtown Long Beach. Another line branched from the end of four track operation at Willow, and rocked on down to Electric Avenue in Seal Beach, past Signal Hill, the Lagoon and Alamitos Bay.
The curious round windows on the end earned the cars their nickname and were the portholes for the motorman operator.
The wind up knob to the left of the end door was attached by rope to the hot shoe end of the trolley pole pickup the operator could open the door and adjust the pole or reel it in and let up the one on the other end to change direction, the end doors were for train crew only and were not used to communicate passengers between cars.
At first, when I was a child, I thought that these were batteries. They are sequential banks of resistor windings and vented to dump a great amount of heat. When the coach is at rest, it draws the most amount of current, and curiously, the next least amount of current is drawn at top speed. There was an electric motor connected by a gear to the axle and that axle completed the electric ground of 600 Volts, direct current. If that motor was connected directly to the line, the wheels would spin instantly but the coach would go nowhere. These resistors pictured were each connected to a switch terminal under the motorman’s handle so that, at first, all of the resistors were connected, drawing the most current and heating them all up like a toaster. As the motorman's handle was successively turned to a "higher speed" then fewer of these resistors would be engaged, until, at top speed, there was a direct connection from the line, through the motors to ground.
Silly me, why would they need batteries? These Big Red Cars are connected overhead to a 600V, extension cord carrying hugely immense current, enough to start a train, that is many miles long!
(Now, how do I connect household lamps, light bulbs, without them exploding when they are screwed in?)
dsc04394.208.05.06, 3D, Travel Town, MTA, resistors
a 1930's advert for Erie resistors, placed by the UK distributor, Radio Resistor, later part of the same group that owned Radiospares (R.S).. Erie had its roots in the USA.. The address No.1, Golden Square, London is an office complex in Soho housing multiple headquarters.
I recently started building a small 1-1.5 watt tube amp, the Firefly (using the Firefly PCB circuit board).
Here I have soldered on all of the resistors, and a ground jumper (the bare (stripped) wire on the right side by my ring finger).
YouTube Videos:
MacSimski purchased a broken 1930's Philips 529 HU vacuum tube radio at a flea market. When opening it up, he found a molten capacitor. After replacing it with a modern (Philips!) replacement part, he managed to get a bit of sound out of it. The radio probably needs some more fine-tuning and a few part replacements. For instance, the electrolytic capacitor has dried out and lost its function. The entire unit also needs quite a bit of cleaning. Most of the wiring is deteriorated and previously flexible material has gone stiff and brittle.
This is what an old-fashioned mouse looks like from the inside. It's from our article on how computer mice work.
Compare with our photo of the parts inside an optical mouse.
See also this photo of the same mouse taken from a different angle, showing how the light-beam detector works.
Our images are published under a Creative Commons Licence (see opposite) and are free for noncommercial use. We also license our images for commercial use. Please contact us directly via our website for more details.
a nice old one, in a wooden box. not sure how old it is. could be older than I am (oh my!).
looking around on the web, models like this were sold from 1949 thru 1951.
I cleaned it up (inside and out), replaced the banana jacks with new 'gold' ones, (knobs are still original, from what I can tell). I added some cherry stain and now its in quite usable and presentable shape.
there are some red wirewound precision resistors inside and while its not 'lab accurate' its a great substitution box or even 'transfer standard' for arbitrary resistances. just not always the ones that are literally marked on the dials, lol.
Hiraga Le Monstre 15W LT1083 7.5A Regulated supply
Desoldering on bias Holco to try Allen Bradley new resistors :
- Audio Note & Shinko Tantalum on the signal & negative feedback.
- Allen Bradley for Bias & between power supply & transistors
Power caps are 4 x 27 000uF/25v Mundorf.
Power cables PC OCC Copper Awg 16 Teflon insulated.
Output cables by MIT.
Rhodium RCA plugs.
Next improvement : replace some Allen Bradley by Kiwame 5W in parallel on output transistors cause full Allen Bradley gives too light & strong sound.
Kiwame 5w in parallel on output gives exactly what I expected : less harsh sound with a hard plate on dynamic peaks & gives more more shades, perfect dynamic curve at all frequencies !
Note: the resistance of 16ohm located between the star ground and the power cable ground : its purpose is to favor the connection cables
Now there are 3 x Stereo Hiraga 15w Le Monstre A-Class DIY Homemade amps.
1 x drive Mid High & High Frequencies on the Left chanel.
1 x drive Mid High & High Frequencies on the Right chanel.
1 x drive Mid Bass Frequencies on the Left & Right chanel & replace one McIntosh 2255.
www.humblehomemadehifi.com/Cap.html
hifiduino.wordpress.com/2011/03/29/new-breed-of-ultra-low...
Ventilation fan controlled by EMSL Art Controller board with custom thermostat firmware
More information: www.rotormind.com/blog/2013/Art-Controller-Thermostat
This closeup of the solder side shows the pull up resistors for the TC74 I2C lines, made from four 2.2 KOhm SMD resistors.
Resistors
A day in the Mombello Asylum with some friend of P2L Community
Some of this photos is in HDR, that is my firsts HDRs and some are horrible LOL
Canon EOS 7D & Canon EF 100mm f/2.8 L Macro IS USM
Post Production with Lightroom 3.3 & Photoshop CS5
©2012, Stefano Minella Photo
Stefano Minella | Photographer WebSite
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To control cooling (fan) and heating (resistors) I prepared very simple circuit consisting of comparator, few resistors, 10K NTC thermistor en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thermistor and dual N-Channel MOSFET transistor. Comparator forms inverting and non-inverting Schmitt triggers en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Schmitt_trigger. I calculated resistors values using online calculators for this circuit on Random Science Tools and Calculators www.random-science-tools.com/electronics/ site to turn on fan when temperature is more than 30 degrees C and turn it off if T below 27 degrees C. Heater respectively turns on if T is below about 3 degrees C and turns off when it rises more than 7 degrees C. Numbers are approximate, but tests showed I hadn't missed anything.
BOM:
IRF7103 SO-8 dual MOSFET 50V, 3.0A.
LM393 SOIC-8 dual comparator.
0.1uF C0805 ceramic capacitor.
1uF C0805 ceramic capacitor.
3x Molex 2-pin polar connectors 0.1" step.
10K NTC thermistor R0805.
33K R0805 resistor.
39K R0805 resistor.
330 R0805 resistor.
2x 10K R0805 resistor.
56K R0805 resistor.
22K R0805 resistor.
330K R0805 resistor.
big thanks to Billi-Kid for this colorful combo
Bo Neminus, Ticky™, Wu?, Theory Propaganda, NYDP®, fokusedempire178, ToyEater, Josh?, WTF ...Wheres Dash, Under Water Pirates, roy_gbl, The Slobtastik One, ..CASPA..DBK.., JShine, Lord Leigh (Mono), BIGSNEAK, SNUB23, xnhungx, MD-FCB-CAF, DAVeWarnke, Hargo (Obey tribute), MORG, ti.tiki., hello nasty guy, Discoshit., Me love, Sticky Rick, .ELNA, der herr und sein knecht, Azione VS Booty, hope, Sparky Superfly, artoo_r2, COLANTE, RobotsWillKill, blurble (kidtv), hellboycdub, El Bokom, biafrainc, ST!!!, crevicecreeps, SR, GMK23 [SBK], Subhumanoid, Kandycore, J__K, Unseen, trashisfesch, sketch3030, Resistor, Orticanoodles, Wheeler Lifton, the_fre3q, .88 Proof, Riot68, lazynachos, Stick-A-Thing,, 14Bolt, DRYPnz, Melvind VS The GC Four, Guar2007, RobotsWillKill, XNY, Bytedust, SAM CHOI, PeelHere he Slobtastik One, and Billi Kid Brand
Nanda is making a bracelet out of colourful electrical wire and resistors at Moem's workshop Geeky Jewelry (in which the participants make earrings, bracelets, pendants, amulets and assorted bling from shiny electrical components and computer parts).
This seemed to be the easiest way to give me a signal that would let me temporarily disable the RAM. The left side of the resistor is attached to CE1 coming from the CPU, and the right side is attached to the RAM's CE1 pin. Normally I let the CPU's signal pass straight through, with the wire on the left picking up the signal so the FPGA can snoop it.
On the right, the RAM's CE1 is connected to the FPGA through two diodes. When this control signal is 0V, CE1 is unmodified. When it's 3.3v, I pull CE1 up to 2.1v (close enough to the logic level of 1.8v for me).
If I were more patient and less lazy, I'd put in some real 1.8v/3.3v level shifters.. but this seems to be working so far.
Here's a trick that works for resistors: Stack four wint-o-green life savers, held together by icing. Paint the rings with the appropriate color code. Here, brown-black-yellow-gold.
The great things about this technique are (1) it leaves a hole to put your wire through and (2) the white candy surface takes most colorations very well.
Part of the circuitry snacks project: Edible models of functioning electronic circuits. Designed for fun, for geeks, for kids, and for teaching and learning electronics.
a stacked (balanced) set of modules and also a non-stacked relay board+controller.
the arduino (LCDuino1) is behind the amber LCD in the background. it runs VOLUmaster code that I wrote.
volume control is via an r-2r relay resistor array that is i2c controlled by the arduino.
a single relay board can support up to 8 bits (8 relays) and its typical to find half-db steps on 8bit boards. 7bit boards can cover -127db to 0db in single db steps using 1 less relay.
[RANT]
I posted this photo to head-fi but the angry mod that hates me auto-deleted it moments afterwards. I can't imagine why but it seems that headfi does not like DIY projects or does not like them from certain people... BOO on head-fi for such censorship! let me post photos of my projects. stop the arbitrary/selective censorship!
[/RANT]
Hiraga Le Monstre 15W LT1083 7.5A Regulated supply
Desoldering on bias Holco to try Allen Bradley new resistors :
- Audio Note & Shinko Tantalum on the signal & negative feedback.
- Allen Bradley for Bias & between power supply & transistors
Power caps are 4 x 27 000uF/25v Mundorf.
Power cables PC OCC Copper Awg 16 Teflon insulated.
Output cables by MIT.
Rhodium RCA plugs.
Next improvement : replace some Allen Bradley by Kiwame 5W in parallel on output transistors cause full Allen Bradley gives too light & strong sound.
Note: the resistance of 16ohm located between the star ground and the power cable ground : its purpose is to favor the connection cables
Now there are 3 x Stereo Hiraga 15w Le Monstre A-Class DIY Homemade amps.
1 x drive Mid High & High Frequencies on the Left chanel.
1 x drive Mid High & High Frequencies on the Right chanel.
1 x drive Mid Bass Frequencies on the Left & Right chanel & replace one McIntosh 2255.
www.humblehomemadehifi.com/Cap.html
hifiduino.wordpress.com/2011/03/29/new-breed-of-ultra-low...
ATmega8 QFN squeezed between legs of DIP14 packages. The resistors look horrible at this magnification. I tried different values and replaced the resistors many times. And that row of 4 was supposed to be a 0603×4 array which I didn't have handy at the time.
Length, hight, width are related to the three photo resistors and you can deform the box by playing with light.
The color of the cube depends of the temperature that I compute from the thermistor.
This is a just a "demo" to show that it is easy with liberlab module to integrate real physical values in simulations or interactive art.
The circuit:
www.flickr.com/photos/frenchy/100832891/
Using here Python/ Vpython.
A simple integrated circuit chip, a few resistors, and some other components on a circuit board. It's from our article about integrated circuits.
Our images are published under a Creative Commons Licence (see opposite) and are free for noncommercial use. We also license our images for commercial use. Please contact us directly via our website for more details.
I recently started building a small 1-1.5 watt tube amp, the Firefly (using the Firefly PCB circuit board).
Here I have soldered on all of the resistors, as well as the two small diodes (left), and added a ground jumper (the bare wire on the left side).
YouTube Videos:
boston, massachusetts
1960s
teradyne automatic resistor test instrument r127
teradyne was founded in 1960 by alex d'arbeloff and nick dewolf. more information available here: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Teradyne
part of an archival project, featuring the photographs of nick dewolf
© the Nick DeWolf Foundation
Image-use requests are welcome via flickrmail or nickdewolfphotoarchive [at] gmail [dot] com
A hand-wired circuit, for testing.
Altogether there is one SOT23-6 chip, two capacitors and five resistors that I glued to the bottom of a circuit board then soldered together. The four colored wires make connections to the PCB circuits.
For scale, those circular pads above are on tenth-inch centers.
IMGP5596
Final view of 5 level resistor box. This resistor box is build using five, single pole 12 position rotary switches and 50 wire-wound resistors.
Resistor tuners use a resistor to reduce the O2 sensor's signal voltage. I used a diode.
Diodes are a one way valve. Current can only flow through the anode end (no stripe). If current is put to the cathode end (striped end) it is blocked. For our use, the anode end (no stripe) connects to the sensor wires, and the striped end faces the bike's wiring.
Even though current is allowed through the diode, there is a voltage drop. Usually it's too big, approx. 0.7 volt. Schottky diodes have only a 0.15 to 0.4 voltage drop, and this just right to reduce the O2 sensor's voltage.
Get diodes rated for 1 to 3 amps of current. These heavier diodes have thick wires that are much easier to use. You will have to order them from a specialty electronics vendor.
The diodes that have worked for me; SB3H90, IN5820, BAT48, and similar diodes with a forward voltage loss of 0.15 to 0.35 volts.
Special, more expensive, carbon composition resistors. The extra pink band, sometimes called "salmon", shows that they'll hold their resistance value more closely than ordinary carbon resistors. Some even have a +/- 2% tolerance band (red).
Sorry about the crappy pictures, but someone (Hi Mark!) has been trying to get his flash up and running.
I have no desire to give a step by step how to build a flash and maybe kill yourself tutorial.
Try here :
www.glacialwanderer.com/hobbyrobotics/?p=490
Be safe kids and don't build one.
On top of my voltage multiplier are two current limiting resistors. Here is a picture.
Cheers.
This "IC" confused me for some time when I was a kid. It's really more of a thick film hybrid module with discrete components in it. I don't think we'd call it an Integrated Circuit today.
Hiraga Le Monstre 15W LT1083 7.5A Regulated supply
Desoldering on bias Holco to try Allen Bradley new resistors :
- Audio Note & Shinko Tantalum on the signal & negative feedback.
- Allen Bradley for Bias & between power supply & transistors
Power caps are 4 x 27 000uF/25v Mundorf.
Power cables PC OCC Copper Awg 16 Teflon insulated.
Output cables by MIT.
Rhodium RCA plugs.
Next improvement : replace some Allen Bradley by Kiwame 5W in parallel on output transistors cause full Allen Bradley gives too light & strong sound.
Note: the resistance of 16ohm located between the star ground and the power cable ground : its purpose is to favor the connection cables
Now there are 3 x Stereo Hiraga 15w Le Monstre A-Class DIY Homemade amps.
1 x drive Mid High & High Frequencies on the Left chanel.
1 x drive Mid High & High Frequencies on the Right chanel.
1 x drive Mid Bass Frequencies on the Left & Right chanel & replace one McIntosh 2255.
www.humblehomemadehifi.com/Cap.html
hifiduino.wordpress.com/2011/03/29/new-breed-of-ultra-low...