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600K volts derived from 6 C cell batteries.
The final 10x up-conversion comes from the Marx generator on the right. 10 round capacitors are charged in parallel to 60K volts and then connected in series by nine spark gap switches, ideally producing a voltage multiplied by the number of capacitors stages.
At this brief moment of discharge, all nine of the metal balls in the middle tower spark simultaneously, shifting the parallel charging circuit to a series discharge (the spark across the air gap sees about 1 ohm). You can see a light source in this moment from each of the balls.
Re-done with more sensible parts. Gone are the oversized 56kΩ resistors and Mullard "tropical fish" capacitors. In their place, 57.6kΩ 1% metal film resistors and 100n polyester caps. Still works.
Finally a use for old through-hole components! Resistor stick figure family, on a field of PCBs.
Single flash, with a small diffuser, 45 degrees to the left of the frame and about 1.5m away. The backdrop is shaded with a screen. Shot with a Tamron 70-300mm VC lens.
kandycore, bytedust, snub23, resistor, caspa, artisdead, werms2, xny, VLT Crew, lukedaduke, catv, hang deph, 14bolt, resistor, d$, gras, ikari, welt, wu!, mecro, riot68, sabotage, tigapics, roy gbl, blurble, dwell, sparky superfly, billikidbrand, epik, chopsticks, mello dku, tr8, oneunit, mrprvrt, rwk, nerfect, eyeskull
an edible toy piano!
Shown here at the Handmade Lounge at the 2011 Solid Sound Festival, Mass MoCA.
The JelTone (with gelatin instead of fruit) also won a prize at the 2011 Jello Mold Competition in Brooklyn! (More photos at eater.com)
We discovered a true Master of the JelTone at the NY Hall of Science in October!
boston, massachusetts
1960s
teradyne automatic resistor classifier r131
with
daymaro type 147 component contactor
&
hewlett packard digital recorder model j57 562a
teradyne was founded in 1960 by alex d'arbeloff and nick dewolf. more information available here: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Teradyne
part of an archival project, featuring the photographs of nick dewolf
© the Nick DeWolf Foundation
Image-use requests are welcome via flickrmail or nickdewolfphotoarchive [at] gmail [dot] com
The laser beam trigger from the front. When I get done tweaking it every day I'll put it in an enclosure. No hurry though, it can stand on its own.
Straight forward operation, break mode triggers when the beam is broken and make mode triggers the camera when the beam is established.
The sensitivity adjustments include time averaging (around 100ms response time) to avoid false triggering for low sensitivity (wildlife) mode and a reduced beam threshold detection such that the entire beam must be broken (or 10% beam make) before a trigger is issued. In high sensitivity mode no such averaging is done for maximum response time (13 microseconds) and only a 10% beam break or 90% beam make will trigger the exposure.
There is still work to do -- a programmable delay from trigger detection until trigger issue is needed for the tuning of high-speed photographs. For example, if I want a water splash there ought to be a much longer delay between beam break and trigger issue than if I want to capture a firecracker. I am waiting on my LCD board to arrive before implimenting this, however.
A simple, quick, and very cheap circuit to turn on an LED when it gets dark. Read more about this project here.
MacSimski purchased a broken 1930's Philips 529 HU vacuum tube radio at a flea market. When opening it up, he found a molten capacitor. After replacing it with a modern (Philips!) replacement part, he managed to get a bit of sound out of it. The radio probably needs some more fine-tuning and a few part replacements. For instance, the electrolytic capacitor has dried out and lost its function. The entire unit also needs quite a bit of cleaning. Most of the wiring is deteriorated and previously flexible material has gone stiff and brittle.
Shinex and his crew.
Pulke
Snub w/ kidbooty
GC Records
Hedset
Resistor
UWP
TrashisFesch
Hope
The FFSC
KangaMCK
Melvind
LazyNachos
Lil' Lil
Herbird
Gen Why
Riot Debs
Jes Uno
Ciah & Bell
14 Bolt
A T-shirt design created for the March for Science taking place Aprill 22, 2017.
You can pick one up here: cottonbureau.com/products/resistor-1
www.recyclart.org/2013/04/resistors-necklace/
Find some old resistors, put them together with a lot of different colored beads and you can have an eccentric original necklace !
++ More information at Arter Ego Handmade website !
Idea sent by Daniela Spagnoli !
Discrete components (mostly resistors and diodes) on a vintage circuit board from the late seventies.
photo by Scott Beale / Laughing Squid
This photo is licensed under a Creative Commons license. If you use this photo within the terms of the license or make special arrangements to use the photo, please list the photo credit as "Scott Beale / Laughing Squid" and link the credit to laughingsquid.com.
Vintage resistors as seen through a vintage macro lens. Colors were used to signify numbers,.
Canon FD 100mm f/4 macro, taken at f/22 with flash
Image from the Convair/General Dynamics Astronautics Atlas Negative Collection---Please Tag these images so that the information can be permanently stored with the digital file.---Repository: San Diego Air and Space Museum
Image from the Convair/General Dynamics Astronautics Atlas Negative Collection---Please Tag these images so that the information can be permanently stored with the digital file.---Repository: San Diego Air and Space Museum
Day 170 - So, today I took myself back to 'school' and started experimenting with circuits and a Raspberry Pi.
I've been thinking of making my own auto camera/flash trigger system to get some better control of water/ink/paint drop/splash/splat type shots. A quick google and you can get some pretty cool shots and you can make your own trigger/drop release systems. I already own a Raspberry Pi (or 2) so I figured why not give it a go.
But I know nothing about circuits or resistors or capacitors or diodes or solenoids or LDRs or all that jazz, so I thought it best to go back to basics and start from scratch. Simply turning LEDs on and off with Python.
Nerd.
"Magic Wire" is so called because of detecting proximity to antenna.
THE MAGIC WIRE
As shown in the diagram, the input tube is a type 6R7 duo-diode triode. The triode section forms the oscillator, in conjunction with the coil L1 which is center-tapped to the cathode. When the triode section is oscillating, the r.f. voltage developed from cathode to ground is impressed on the diode section, causing current to flow through R2 and making the diode plates negative with respect to ground. The control grid of the 25L6 power tube is connected to the diode plates of the 6R7 and consequently a negative bias is placed on the grid which reduces its plate current to a very low value. As soon as the triode ceases to oscillate, there is no longer any r.f. voltage applied to the diodes, the voltage drops and the 25L6 draws high plate current, causing the relay to operate.
It will be noted that no rectifier tube or filler circuit is required in this design, yet the instrument functions on either a.c. or d.c. On a.c., the 6R7 oscillations and the 25L6 draws plate current only on the positive half-cycles. This principle effects a considerable saving in construction cost and in the size of the instrument.
After the parts required have been obtained, the first step in building the unit is to make the chassis, which consists simply of a piece of 16-gauge aluminum or steel bent and drilled in accordance with the plan shown. The front panel, which is included with the standard 6 by 6 cabinet, is drilled and a hole and grommet are placed in the rear panel. The oscillator coil is made by winding 100 turns of No.28 d.c.c. wire on a one-inch bakelite tube 3-1/4 inches long. A tap is brought out at the center of the winding. When the winding has been completed, the entire coil is dipped in a hot half-and-half mixture of beeswax and paraffin to keep the winding in place and exclude moisture. The sensitivity of the outfit is largely dependent upon the efficiency of the coil, so it should be carefully made. C1 is mounted on a small piece of 1/8-inch bakelite, because it must be insulated from the panel.
Wire the chassis first, starting with the heater circuits. Do not connect in the power cord until all wiring has been completed. The shield of the 25L6 is connected to its cathode, the shield of the 6E7 to the heater terminal which goes directly to the line. When all the main wiring has been completed, bring the power cord through the rear panel hole, and solder the three terminals to the terminal strip. The antenna wire is brought in through a rubber-grommeted hole in the top of the cabinet and connected to the stator or plate terminal of C1. A knot in the wire will relieve any strain on this connection. Stranded wire is preferred for the antenna.
The capacitances of C1 and C2 are largely dependent upon the length of antenna wire desired. If only 4 or 5 feet are required, C2 may be omitted. On the other hand, if the wire exceeds 15 feet, C2 will have to be larger than the value given. If the capacitance of C1 were made large (say 150 mmf. or more), C2 could of course be omitted but then the adjustment would become too critical.
The relay employed is a 3,000-ohm plug-in type of standard manufacture. It is a double-pole model and will handle a non-inductive load of 100 watts. It is somewhat more sensitive than is required and any other good relay of 1,000 ohms or more resistance should be suitable. The capacitor, C4, is shunted across the relay coil to prevent chattering. It may be advisable, in some cases, to put a 0.1 mf. paper capacitor across the relay contacts to stop sparking on heavy loads. It is better practice, however, to use a separate power relay when operating any but light loads.
In operation, the antenna wire is strung out well away from grounded metal objects and a 110-volt lamp is plugged into the outlet on the panel. When the tubes have heated, the lamp should light when the antenna wire is touched. If it lights without touching the wire, C2 should be screwed down until the lamp goes out. These adjustments should be made with C1 about one-half mashed. The panel may then screwed in on the cabinet and final adjustment made. This is done by gradually adjusting the vernier knob of the dial until the light remains lit when adjusting but goes out when the hand is removed from the dial. This may be carried to a point where the light will flash as soon as one approaches within 3 feet of the wire or instrument. It is better not to aim for such sensitivity, though, since it will vary somewhat with line voltage. A good, practical and stable point is about six to fifteen minutes or so for the instrument to acquire a stable point of operation owing to its sensitivity.
PARTS REQUIRED
C1 - Midget variable capacitor, 60 mmf. (see text)
C2 - Trimmer capacitor, 35 mmf. or more (see text)
C3 - Tubular paper capacitor, 0.05 mf. or more, 200 v.
C4 - Electrolytic capacitor, 10 mf., 100 V.
R1 - Carbon resistor, 5 meg, 1 watt
R2 - Carbon resistor, 1 meg., 1 watt
R4 - Wire-wound resistor, 5,000 ohms, 10 watts
R5 - Wire-wound resistor, 10,000 ohms, 10 watts
1 -- Steel cabinet 6x6x6 inches, front & back panels removable
1 -- Piece 16-gauge aluminum, for chassis 5-1/2 x 7-3/4 inches
1 -- Piece bakelite tubing, 1 inch diameter., 3-1/2 inches long
1 -- Piece bakelite, 1'1/2 x 1-1/2, 1/8 inch thick for C1
2 -- Octal wafer sockets, 1-1/2 inches center for mounting holes
1 -- 5-prong wafer socket, 1-1/2 inches center for mounting holes
1 -- Relay, Utah type RAC-110, 3,000 ohm
1 -- 6R7 metal tube
1 -- 25L6 metal tube
1 -- Kurz-Kasch vernier dial, small
1 -- Resistor line cord, 280 ohms (R3)
1 -- Single outlet receptacle
Miscellaneous screws, nuts, mounting bracket, and grommets.
- James P Hughes
This is the eyelet board for my tweed Champ replica. Carbon comp resistors, Orange Drop caps, cloth covered wire, it has all the voodoo stuff.
Follow the building process here!
Photo by Noortje.
'Scuse the handwriting, bro. ;)
A simple, quick, and very cheap circuit to turn on an LED when it gets dark. Read more about this project here.
Perth, Western Australia.
Featuring: tigapics, branded, reetbot, phook, bytedust, 14bolt, billikid, delme, suspecto, buddy barbados, bell, ciah, riot68, resistor, 7ad, lare, 2tone
See it big: www.flickr.com/photo_zoom.gne?id=2062019706&size=l
Agfa Optima 200 Sensor (second version).
German viewfinder camera produced c.1969.
.
Resistors Board removed and lying upside down.
The 2 parallel resistors are in a series circuit going from the Selenium Cell to the Meter.
The resulting resistance is about 9300 Ohm (9,3k).
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.
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WARNING :
This image is intended as a reference for the more experienced camera service man. If you have no experience in camera repair please do yourself a favor and send your camera to a professional service shop. It would be a pity to lose a vintage camera in a failed repair attempt !
The first scratch-built component for my current project is just about ready. It is all soldiered (and yes, I've tested all the connections).
Next up is wiring up its partner and then linking the two together.
100 ohm, 1/4 W resistor.
As seen on Alpha Clock Five!
From an article about power dissipation, on our blog here.