View allAll Photos Tagged Resistor
A simple, quick, and very cheap circuit to turn on an LED when it gets dark. Read more about this project here.
Arduino for triggering a camera
Image taken for Lesson 5: Trigger your camera with an Arduino of my highspeed photography 101.
Bild fuer Lektion 5: Kamera mit einem Arduino auslösen meines 1x1 der Highspeed Fotografie
A simple, quick, and very cheap circuit to turn on an LED when it gets dark. Read more about this project here.
Connect a 470kohm resistor between pin 1 (GND) and 21 (Accessory detect) to enable the UART. Connect the TX on the converter to the iPhone's RX (the breakout board has these referenced from the connector's POV so beware), and vice versa. Connect power to Pin 18 and ground to Pin 1.
Get a Male DB9 header and a rollover cable, and cut one end off. Connect the following:
RJ45 DB9
3 ----- 2
4 ----- 5
5 ----- 5
6 ----- 3
Read about this thing here: blog.makezine.com/archive/2009/09/build_a_resistor_sub_bo...
Really simple to make, but useful thingy.
Therm-App thermal imager looking at a 100 ohm 0.6W resistor across a 5V supply (thus dissipating 0.25W) and consequently running warm, as can be seen by the image on the tablet screen behind.
The image on the tablet screen was, of course, a lot sharper, but is blurred here by the limited depth of field of the camera used to take this photo (for the record, a Nexus 5 phone camera).
Comments are warmly invited. If you like this image, please join the Therm-App (and others) thermal imaging group at www.flickr.com/groups/therm-app-users/
A simple, quick, and very cheap circuit to turn on an LED when it gets dark. Read more about this project here.
Nanda's bracelet, made out of colourful electrical wire and resistors at Moem's workshop Geeky Jewelry (in which the participants make earrings, bracelets, pendants, amulets and assorted bling from shiny electrical components and computer parts).
A simple, quick, and very cheap circuit to turn on an LED when it gets dark. Read more about this project here.
A simple, quick, and very cheap circuit to turn on an LED when it gets dark. Read more about this project here.
Adding a variable resistor to control speed and behaviour. See video (youtube.com/fdecomite)
Original design :
A simple, quick, and very cheap circuit to turn on an LED when it gets dark. Read more about this project here.
Want to to home-brew your own TriodeElectronics.com Upgraded, Dynaco(tm) style, Mk3 mono tube amp clone? Heres the Kit for you. The Mk3 was the top of the Classic Dynaco line. Sixty, all tube, watts, in a compact design. This Kit includes our most requested Mk3 upgrades, and will yield a world class amp. Our Kit's a great choice if you really want to learn more about how your amplifier operates, too. You see, unlike many other Kit's, you are not totally locked in to only certain components, nor are you stuck with unchangeable circuit values which limit the versatility of your amplifier and further modifications. There's no "big secrets", you don't need permission from a "guru" to change or tweak it, the manual has instructions for about every change you could imagine making. Instructions are included for triode connecting the output tubes, which will give you a taste of hi-end triode-itis for the cost of 4 resistors, about $1. So, you've got a choice..you can just plug in & play, or you can do your own experimenting if you'd like to, learn a lot and become your own neighborhood Dynaco guru. And you won't break the bank doing it, either. The stock board and parts kit includes, transformers, choke, rca jack, terminal strip, metal film resistors, polypropylene capacitors, wire, bias potentiometer, wire, and sockets. Which do just fine..but if you like you can modify many component values and try different or exotic parts and tweak to your heart's content. The boards will adapt to output tubes which need very low drive circuit impedance/ DC grid resistance like 8417's- or may be modified to whip out enough voltage to drive 300B's or 6B4's!! The board sounds fine even with the off the shelf, current production tubes, and special grading and matching is not absolutely necessary. It is a good example of what can be done with the original type of circuit with improved components, and makes a good case for the virtues of simplicity and short signal path in audio design. The TriodeElectronics Mk3 boards emulate the simple but highly effective (due to the short signal path and single gain stage) original Dynaco circuit, but with lower hum, noise, distortion, and a wider voltage swing across heavier loads, than a 7199,6GH8,6BL8/ECF80, 6U8/ECF82 or 6AN8 are capable of. Comes without tubes, see our "Tubes for Dynacos" link at bottom of page for them. The board manual includes information on adapting the amplifier to different output & board tubes, adjusting resistor & capacitor values if desired, plus a comprehensive Troubleshooting Guide. A online pictorial manual (like for our st70 kit) will be ready shortly. Thanks for the interest.
A431 S Output Transformer:
The primary is wound the same as the original A431, same number of turns, sections and wire size, using the same patented Dynaco winding method, and made on the same core size and material. Only improved insulation material used (thus making the transformer more resistant to abuse) and nice long (10 inch/ 25 cm minimum) teflon insulated leads have been added.
This transformer has what you'd expect out of a Dynaco transformer, like healthy low frequency inductance, high resistance to distortion caused by output tube imbalance, and low distortion overall.
This type of transformer can be used with many tube types, such as 6550, KT88, KT90, 6CA7/EL34 (like Mk 2), 6B4G. It may be used with triode, pentode, or ultralinear (screen tap connection) wired tube arrangements.
Transformer specs are: 4300 ohms CT primary with screen taps, 4,8 and 16 ohm secondary. 20 Hz to 20 KHz response at 60W, within 1 db, 30 Hz to 15 KHz at 120 watts. Max DC per side (suggested) 120 ma. Exact same dimensions as the original A431 Dynaco transformer: Height 4 3/4 inches (120 mm) Width 4 inches (101 mm), Depth over covers 4 1/2 inches (114 mm), mounting centers are 3 inches (75 mm) by 3 1/2 inches (88 mm).
P782 S Power Transformer:
Replacement power transformer for Dynaco (tm) Mark 3 and Mark 2 amplifiers. Bolts directly on without modifications. Also a bolton replacement for 60 watt (2 6550's or KT88's) Rated 400-0-400V (800VCT) at 200 ma (actually, will deliver up to 300 ma continuous, albeit at a slightly lower voltage) , 5V at 3A, 6.3VCT at 5A, also has 60V bias tap. Primary 117VAC 60 Hz. Transformer dimensions are 4 3/4 inches high X 3 3/4 wide X 3 3/4 inches deep over the covers, mounting hole centers are 2 7/8 inchs X 3 inches. Overseas Customers see the dropdown menu below for our Export version 120/220, works on 240/230 as well.
C354 Choke:
Replacement for chokes in Dynaco ST70, Mk2, Mk3 and Mk4. 1 1/2 inches (40 mm) tall on 2 3/8 inch (60 mm) mounting hole centers. 55 ohms, 1.5 henries, 10% tolerance, 2500 volt DC hipot tested, 200 ma DC. New unit made in Chicago,USA by transformer professionals with decades of experience manufacturing high voltage transformers.
Chassis:
Stainless Steel, Super, Heavy Duty, Punched, Chassis. Same dimensions as original. Our newest version of the Chassis has cut-outs for upgrade speaker binding posts, iec power cord connector, and bias point. Original or repro Mk3 cages will fit as on original. Nice stainless steel finish. Comes with top and bottom pieces. Custom built chassis made right here in Chicago IL. USA.
Driver Board:
Our Mark 3 board uses a cascoded triode front-end, which gives "pentode gain with triode noise" and allows the use of a wide variety of possible tubes with pinouts same as 12AU7, by simply changing 2 resistors on the board.Our newest version includes a filament jumper allowing use of tubes with 9AJ or 9LP pinout, thus allowing use of 6CG7/6FQ7 or 6N1-P as a phase splitter with no changes required other than changing the board jumper. For more information, please see our Dynaco Page. The kit includes all off board resistors. Kits Also include Board instruction manual, but not tubes, each board requires 1 each 12AU7/ECC82 (or equivalent, 6189,5814,etc) plus one each of either 12AU7/ECC82, 12BH7, 6CG7/6FQ7 or 6N1-P. Standard coupling capacitors are Xicon metallized polypropylene. You can get Sprage 715P polypropylene film & foil instead for a little extra. You can also order without a driver board. See dropdown menu at bottom.
Upgrade Cap Board:
These SDS Labs Power Supply boards replace the original can capacitors in Dynaco Mk3, Mk2. Fit on standoffs under the output transformers, no cutting or drilling required to install, just bolt in, hook up the wires and go!
The Mk3 board increases capacity to 50-50-50-50 uF (two 100 uF in series per section)and the voltage rating to 630V per section to eliminate capacitor problems the original 525V rated cap has that are caused by high line voltages and allows the use of solid-state diode replacements as well as the original tube (5AR4/GZ34 or 5U4) rectifier. Capacitors supplied with the board + parts kits, are Panasonic TS Series parts, temperature rated 85 C. Boards measure 3 inches (approx 77 mm) wide by 4 inches ( 102 mm) long, with about 1/4 (6.5 mm) overhang on each side for mounting standoff. Tightens up the power supply for Tremendous Bass.
Transformers come with manufacturer's 6 month exchange warranty on materials & workmanship
A simple, quick, and very cheap circuit to turn on an LED when it gets dark. Read more about this project here.
This is an Arduino-based Motion Detector I created. Upon pressing the button, it will arm 10 seconds later. Then beep and blink the LEDs when motion is detected. It can be disarmed by pressing the same button. The code is as follows:
/*****
* By Pete Lamonica
* Released under a Creative Commons Non-Commerical/Attribution/Share-Alike
* license
* creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-sa/2.0/
****/
#define MOTION_PIN 0
#define SPEAKER_PIN 9
#define RED_LED_PIN 2
#define GREEN_LED_PIN 3
#define ARM_PIN 4
#define SECONDS_TO_ARM 10
//defines what "motion" is. There's a pull-up resistor on the
// motion sensor, so "high" is motion, while "low" is no motion.
// I allowed some fuzziness on the "motion"
#define MOTION (analogRead(MOTION_PIN)=1000)
//Plays a tone of a given pitch
void playTone(int tone, int duration) {
for (long i = 0; i < duration * 1000L; i += tone * 2) {
digitalWrite(SPEAKER_PIN, HIGH);
delayMicroseconds(tone);
digitalWrite(SPEAKER_PIN, LOW);
delayMicroseconds(tone);
}
}
//will beep for about 3 seconds and check for disarm in the meantime.
//Could arrange a hardware interrupt to do the same thing
void alarm() {
for(int i=0; i<3; i++) {
if(checkForDisarm()) return;
digitalWrite(RED_LED_PIN, HIGH);
playTone(1432, 300); //F
digitalWrite(RED_LED_PIN, LOW);
digitalWrite(GREEN_LED_PIN, HIGH);
if(checkForDisarm()) return;
playTone(1915, 300); //C
if(checkForDisarm()) return;
digitalWrite(GREEN_LED_PIN, LOW);
delay(400);
if(checkForDisarm()) return;
}
}
boolean armed = false; //armed status
//arm the device.
void arm() {
armed = true;
for(int i=0; i<SECONDS_TO_ARM/2; i++) {
digitalWrite(RED_LED_PIN, LOW);
delay(1000);
if(checkForDisarm()) return;
digitalWrite(RED_LED_PIN, HIGH);
delay(1000);
if(checkForDisarm()) return;
}
}
//Check if the system should be disarmed and do so if that's the case.
boolean checkForDisarm() {
if(digitalRead(ARM_PIN) == HIGH && armed) {
armed = false;
digitalWrite(GREEN_LED_PIN, LOW);
digitalWrite(RED_LED_PIN, HIGH);
delay(1000);
return true;
}
return false;
}
void setup() {
pinMode(SPEAKER_PIN, OUTPUT);
pinMode(RED_LED_PIN, OUTPUT);
pinMode(GREEN_LED_PIN, OUTPUT);
pinMode(ARM_PIN, INPUT);
digitalWrite(RED_LED_PIN, LOW);
digitalWrite(GREEN_LED_PIN, LOW);
}
int detected = 0;
void loop() {
if(MOTION && armed) { //If there's motion and it's armed, sound the alarm
alarm();
delay(1000);
} else if(armed) { //if it's armed, but there's no motion, show a green LED
digitalWrite(RED_LED_PIN, LOW);
digitalWrite(GREEN_LED_PIN, HIGH);
} else { //if it's not armed, show a red LED
digitalWrite(GREEN_LED_PIN, LOW);
digitalWrite(RED_LED_PIN, HIGH);
}
//check to see if the "ARM" button has been pressed
if(digitalRead(ARM_PIN) == HIGH && !armed) {
arm();
}
//check for a disarm
checkForDisarm();
}
This bracelet is made from resistors--electronic components used in to regulate voltage in a circuit. This adjustable bracelet suitable for small and big wrists alike. It measures 6 inches, with an additional two inch extension and a half inch hook closure.
Resistor figures - Omini resistenza
Photo project dedicated to reuse of old electronic components.
Different view angle from the previous shot
[crosseye stereograph, see 3D with your right eye on the left image, and left on right.]
LOS ANGELES METROPOLITAN TRANSIT AUTHORITY #1543
These were the "Balloon Cars" of the high speed Interurban, multiple unit, electric trains of Southern California's Pacific Electric, the famous "Big Red Cars". This car made it's last run April 6.1961, from Los Angeles, 6th and Main (where now stands a bus terminal) to Long Beach, CA at Ocean and Long Beach Blvd. just a block from The Pike. There was an elevated wooden trestle that allowed it to bridge dense downtown automotive traffic, then it came down to street level just short of Alameda and curved South to Long Beach Avenue. When it got to Clement's Junction (Washington Street) the roadbed opened up to four tracks, on the outside was the South and North bound Local Service using smaller cars. The interior pair of the four track sets was reserved for strings of these heavy, high speed electric commuter trains. The private right of way was four tracks through Watts and down to Long Beach Blvd., where these cars would then ride down the center of the street to downtown Long Beach. Another line branched from the end of four track operation at Willow, and rocked on down to Electric Avenue in Seal Beach, past Signal Hill, the Lagoon and Alamitos Bay.
The curious round windows on the end earned the cars their nickname and were the portholes for the motorman operator.
The wind up knob to the left of the end door was attached by rope to the hot shoe end of the trolley pole pickup the operator could open the door and adjust the pole or reel it in and let up the one on the other end to change direction, the end doors were for train crew only and were not used to communicate passengers between cars.
PACIFIC ELECTRIC #1544 "ELECTRA"
At first, when I was a child, I thought that these were batteries. They are sequential banks of resistor windings and vented to dump a great amount of heat. The coach draws the most amount of current when starting from being at rest, it, and curiously, the least amount of current is drawn at top speed. The operators throttle adds all of these resistors at the lowest speed setting and moving the throttle to a higher speed taps the circuit one less resistor. Power from the overhead wire is tapped by a semi-metallic carbon "shoe" on the end of the trolley pole which is softer than the wire because it is easier to exchange the shoe periodically than it is to replace worn copper overhead wire. The wiper shoe conducts power down to the rheostat throttle which selects these resistors then into the motor and grounded by the axle contact with the rails to complete the circuit from the power house supplying 600 Volts, direct current with enough Amperes to start a train. The electric motor pinion connects to drive the axle gear and wheels both mechanically and electrically. If that motor was connected directly to the line without passing through these resistors, the wheels would spin instantly but the coach would go nowhere due to it's inertia. These resistors pictured were each connected to a switch terminal under the motorman’s handle so that, at first, all of the resistors were connected, drawing the most current and heating them all up like a toaster, allowing the motor to spin slowly and build up momentum increasing the coach speed. As the motorman's handle was successively turned to a "higher speed" then progressively fewer of these resistors would be engaged, until, at top speed, there was a direct connection from the line, through the motors to ground.
Silly me, why would they need batteries? These Big Red Cars are connected overhead to a 600V, extension cord carrying hugely immense current, enough to start a train, that is many miles long!
(Now, how do I connect household lamps, light bulbs, without them exploding when they are screwed in?)
Compare with PE 1544 "Electra" locomotive resistors.
Locomotive, Pacific Electric #1544, "Electra", Resistors detail
3D, resistors for governing speed of Long Beach line Interurban "Blimp" or "Balloon Car" Pacific Electric Railway "Big Red Car", Metropolitan Transit Authority, MTA #1543 at Travel Town, Griffith Park, Los Angeles, California, 2008.04.27 14:09, dsc04394
NYC Resistor, An Electronics & Hardware Hacker Space In Brooklyn
photo by Scott Beale / Laughing Squid
This photo is licensed under a Creative Commons license. If you use this photo within the terms of the license or make special arrangements to use the photo, please list the photo credit as "Scott Beale / Laughing Squid" and link the credit to laughingsquid.com.
A simple, quick, and very cheap circuit to turn on an LED when it gets dark. Read more about this project here.
Atmos, a Green-Ringer-based octaver with extra LED clipping.
Sound clips in my octaver pedal shootout.
R4 is a 390 Ohm resistor and a 5 K pot to ground.
R14 can also be a 50 K pot for a variable high-pass filter.
hFE of the transistors I used was approximately 500, 600, 500.
One idea was to get as much of the signal to the first clipping stage as possible (large capacitor values), then cut some bass before the rectification to make the signal more uniform and make it "glue together" better (smaller capacitor values) and then use larger capacitor values again to keep the subharmonics.
The 2.2 pF value for C3 was chosen to move the distortion outside the bass and the lower mid range. 1 pF also works but is not as crunchy. Higher values might also sound good.
Read Dan Armstrong "Green Ringer" /// Clone and Mods for the components that should be matched.
With just a 2k2 resistor between pin 3 and 5 the WeDo 2.0 SmartHub (or the LEGO App?) detects a device but cannot identify it.
However if we also connect pin 6 to pin 3 then we have a motor: youtu.be/YKgTLXC89CI
A simple, quick, and very cheap circuit to turn on an LED when it gets dark. Read more about this project here.
A simple, quick, and very cheap circuit to turn on an LED when it gets dark. Read more about this project here.
1206 Capacitors and Resistors and the tri leg BSS138 and MCP1700 are just about solderable to a prototype board, although no points for appearance.
Solder was melted to board, components placed and then solder reheated (reflowed), could have used less solder.
www.rocketnumbernine.com/2009/04/10/5v-33v-bidirectional-...
Forest Fields, Nottingham, England...
delme stick-a-thing slob air lazy nachos list daydream thee hero riot68 robots wil kill egor/md stick together team blurble stove 14bolt vs billikidbrand resistor ccc rrrr aybs kramer reetbot freaq smallkid orangehead crevice creeps wu?
Flakey, Fake, Flakers still letting me down on trades...
Josh?
Plan C
Eph26
Pace
Snail
Mav
Tappy
Karma-rkey
Nail
Metrik
HMPH
Fame US
Elemental
Dove
Happy
Gem
XNY
Craxx
What's inside an old analog(ue) radio? This is from our article on how radio works. See notes for annotations of components.
Our images are published under a Creative Commons Licence (see opposite) and are free for noncommercial use. We also license our images for commercial use. Please contact us directly via our website for more details.
Here is a completed set of wine charms. Dig the "licorice allsorts" style capacitor on the lower right!
This is part of a DIY "solder your own wine charms" project; read more about it here.
A commercial high voltage source had noise and 1/f jitter that limited its stability to 0.01% over almost all timescales. I wanted it to be 100 times better especially over averaging times of 0.1 - 100s. I didn't want to just add a huge RC filter, since we also need good regulation at the load and reasonable settling times between frequent switches. So, it was time to design and implement a voltage regulator. Thankfully, the circuit will have to supply barely any current; the load will be the 10M of a voltage meter, and the charging currents of two electrodes amounting to 30pF of capacitance.
Here's the basic idea: we stably divide a high voltage by 100 and compare it to a 0-10V setpoint. Any errors are actively nulled by feedback to the high voltage level. Quite a bit was inspired or shamelessly stolen from Horowitz and Hill, pp. 368-376.
A buried zener diode reference (LM399) creates a very stable ~7 V. After a day of warming up, I've seen the fractional stability of the LM399 at least as good as 4e-7 (1-1000 seconds). A low voltage-noise and input-offset op-amp (LT1001) converts this to ~10 V using a gain network of 0.2 ppm/°C Vishay resistors. The 10V is divided (more Vishay resistors) in 11 stages; each stage goes to a tap on a 12-position rotary switch. This lets us choose a setpoint from among 11 evenly spaced voltages between ground and the stable 10 V reference.
The selected setpoint is RC-filtered with a polypropylene capacitor (Horowitz and Hill suggest polypropylene due to its low leakage... a change in the leakage of 0.5nA would mean—heavens!—a full ppm voltage drop in the 20kOhm filter resistance).
Meanwhile, high voltage is applied to the the drain of an n-MOSFET featuring a very high breakdown voltage. The source ("output") of the MOSFET is low-pass filtered with another polypropylene capacitor (giant blue box, above), and sees a precision 100:1 voltage divider (Caddock). Sure, a voltage divider is just two stinking resistors, but the $40 Caddock divider delivers a division ratio with very low temperature dependence and high stability. Thus, the top resistor is designed to be very Ohmic with high voltage applied, and the two resistors are mounted on a common heat-sunk ceramic package. They claim a ratio tempco of 5ppm/°C.
The divided output is compared with the selected setpoint by a low-noise op amp, and the amplified "error" is sent to the gate of the MOSFET. Since the low-voltage op amp can't directly drive the high voltage pass-transistor (the gate needs to be several volts above the source, and the source could be at 1kV!), a second HV MOSFET acts like a voltage amplifier.
In this configuration, the MOSFETs need a bit of "overhead;" the applied HV must be about 10V higher than the "output" HV. And, this overhead can be made as high as 700 V or so before the quiescent current through the amplifier MOSFET gets to be 1mA or so.
The exterior of the box is lined with kapton-film heaters and insulation. A thermistor is buried in the aluminum and an AD590 absolute temperature sensor is mounted on the PCB next to the Vishay division resistors. A temperature controller servos the box temperature to much better than 1°C stability.
If you wanted to get really fancy, the division chain and 12-position switch could be replaced with a highly-stabilized DAC, driven by the nice 10V reference here. Then, a 12-bit digital word could create thousands of possible "setpoints" for the HV.
A genuine extreme racing part - the Porsches of this era had a large watt resistor in the ignition circuit, and to make this part the lightest possible way, the mechanics/technicians built the resistor using a balsa wood frame and hand wrapped wire (resistance wire?) around it. I'd read about this in Paul Frere's "The Racing Porsches", a book I highly recommend, and here, 25+ years later, I finally saw it.
How many other idle wanderers at RennSport IV had the same permanent chemical changes to *their* brains? Its like a Paul Klee or Yoko Ono art piece- this tiny, specific piece of information that's on every continent, probably most countries, in most phone prefixes and some fraction of postal codes....
DSC_0213
This GR decade resistor box is a second generation design of the same model number that was originally debuted in 1915 or 16. Some changes were made to the cabinet design which did away with the original larger top and bottom plates and also has some upgraded tolerance specs on the lower two ranges. Officially, this was rated as being a 0.1% tolerance unit, though the actual numbers are 10 times tighter/better at 0.01% or lower. Some as low as 0.003% on the majority of the switch positions.
This version was released in 1920, I believe, and remained in their line up until the late 1920s.
This unit arrived in decent condition but there was a number of scratches and gouges along with some issues in the light coat of the original factory varnish, so I lightly sanded down the solid walnut finish to remove the king's share of the wear and then just gave it a fresh coat of teak oil and also used a bit of Mother's Back to Black to restore the top Bakelite plate as it was looking faded or perhaps sun bleached to a small degree.
Stay tuned for a few more pics of this one and the GE meter in the coming days.
Enjoy! :)