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Bad weather is here again and the car has been sitting since just before Christmas. So I figured it to be as good a time as any to fix something that was really irking the crap out of me…the sun visors.

All of the 79-85 Eldorado’s with light up mirrors (which most had) unfortunately have a problem with visorus saginitus. The visor is held up by a small winged plastic bushing-it wraps around the chrome visor arm, and locks into the plastic visor body with the winged part. This little plastic thing gets brittle over time and starts to crack, losing its grip on the stationary rod. This starts as an issue where they droop a little bit when the car has been sitting in the sun on a summers day but eventually gets bad enough that it happens at all temperatures and will just flop down with bumps in the road.

To my knowledge there’s no replacements for this winged bushing and even if there were I don’t know how you would go about replacing it with the way it’s installed on the visor arm. GM evidently saw the problem as the arm and bushing were revised in 1984 to be bigger but evidently to no avail-the passenger visor on my car sagged from the time I had bought the car and I had held it in place with a nail wedged into the metal trim surrounding the window that had to be removed when you wanted to use it…this didn’t compute with the fairer sex, so it’s safe to say eventually I’m going to find all of those finishing nails that have gone missing over the past couple of years the hard way…

My driver’s side visor was free of this problem but I just didn’t use it as I was afraid it would start doing the same thing. So I set to work finding a real fix

These popped up for sale on ebay, red visors from an ’87 DeVille. They looked like a winner, same general shape, same color and in good condition. After a couple of messages to get an idea on size, I ordered them. However, when they arrived, they were neither the bright red shown in the pictures, nor in as good of repair. They definitely needed to be reupholstered to be used. I gave them a dry run before wasting any more money, and they had a couple of other issues. The first was a different electrical connector which was no biggie. The second was much bigger, that they could only be used to block sun going forward. Trying to move it to the side caused them to either drop or raise at a 45 degree angle.

I figured this was caused by the design of the mount which is heavily angled. So there wasn’t much I could do about it. Until my ebay suggestions came up with visors from a Buick Reatta for sale-the same general style as the DeVille, but with a flat type of mount similar to the OEM Eldorado!

Now the guy wanted over 100 dollars for these and after my blunder with the DeVille visors I wasn’t about to sink that type of change in a maybe. So I headed over to the Reatta AACA message board to see if anyone had a dogged set of visors with good mounts that they wanted to sell, and the first post in the for sale section happened to be by a fella who was parting out a complete Reatta! Score!

I emailed the guy and he explained that the car was in a junkyard local to his house. A real gentleman, he was able to get the visor arms for free and didn’t even charge me the ride up from Florida. Thanks Mike! The car in question had a burgundy interior so the arms would need to be sprayed dark carmine to work for me. After cleaning and priming, SEM aerosol made quick work of that.

Unfortunately when they were removed from the Reatta, this condom thing that wraps around a metal bushing shredded, but I was able to basically replicate it with heat shrink tubing

The arms are easily removed from the visors when uninstalled from the car. Simply rotate the arm into the mirror side of the visor (as if you were pushing the visor back up into the roof) until it clicks and then yank it out. Install it into the new visor in the same position. I did some tests for proof of concept and when it seemed like I was on the right track, I got to work. Or at least to spending money. I ordered carmine foam-backed headliner material (Sunbrite 1872 for those interested, it was a great match) and headliner adhesive (which I ended up not needing for this job)

The visors themselves are like a clamshell and probably harder to crack open than a turnip. After enough brute force, a hammer, and a screwdriver, I was able to get them open (see the color difference as compared to the ebay picture above)

The material around the visor ended up not being glued to the face of it, only tucked tight and hot glued from the factory. I decided to do the same thing (So I have to write off the spray adhesive until I do a new headliner). I carefully removed the old fabric and made a template out of the new material

(should anyone do this in the future, it’s much more simple and less risky to only cut the general shape of the template out, you can cut the hole for the mirror and sun shade later)

The visors themselves also needed some help. The “ears” at the ends were super fatigued and loose, so I mixed up some resin and fiberglass to shore them up.

Once the visor bodies were sound, I had to come up with a way of re-joining the clamshell. I have no idea how GM did this in the first place but super glue doesn’t work. After a lot of searching I found out that these are likely made of Polyethylene. I bought this 3M DP8005 adhesive which claimed to bond it and tested it on a junk visor-seemed to do the trick. You need a special mixing tip in addition to this and I also had to get a gun that it fits into.

With that solved, I started hot gluing the material onto the visors. I had never done anything with headliner material before aside from stapling them up when they started sagging and I was really surprised with how compliant it was. In that, it basically looked factory with no runs or wrinkles despite not having a clue what I was doing.

Then, I bonded the two halves back together. Each one had to sit like this for a day, and early signs seem like it worked. Hopefully the adhesive will hold, time and temperature will tell.

Here’s a comparison of the original visors with the DeVille replacements. Mirrors swapped without issue. I also had to swap the power connector, meaning I had to cut the crimped on connector at the mirror end from the old visors and install in the new ones. Delphi 12020347 is the connector part, there’s no room inside the assembly for a butt connector (and I hate using them unless I have to)

And here they are installed!

The only complication on the install is that the plastic visor arms bolt in a slightly smaller bolt pattern than the originals. You can take any 2 of the 3 holes but not all 3 at once. Fortunately there’s plenty of meat to drill into to make another hole.

I’m sure a lot of people are reading this right now and saying I should have just stuck with the nail but in reality it wasn’t that bad. It might seem like a mess but everything above is a “worse possible scenario” in that I got fleeced on the visors I bought and had to change color, structurally repair them, rehab the Reatta visor arms, then bond them back together. If you’re fortunate enough to have a 79-85 E body with an interior color the same as an 85-88 Deville, and can get the visors from it, the only thing you need do is get a set of Reatta visor arms and swap them out (and obviously your electrical connector from your 79-85). They’re really close in size as far as fit, and look factory with the exception of the sunshade. You could delete that when reupholstering, but I always liked them.

It seems like GM changed all their lighted visor designs to basically the same thing in the late 80’s downsized cars. So there might very well be more vehicles than just Reattas that have the flat plastic visor arm. As far as longevity, I’ll definitely keep everyone posted but I will say that I’ve never really seen any of the “newer” Cadillacs or Buicks experiencing visor problems. The whole metal bushing with condom setup also feels much more sturdy then the OEM 79-85 stuff.

Oh, and on the bright side, I’ll only have to wear these puppies at night now.

  

The cartridge is full of useful debris. One can be removed while another is installed and blasting continues.

Technician Kelly McDonald smiles in her waders as she finishes pulling up a small mat of Waterchestnut found last week. Photo credit: K.Otseidu/ USFWS

Remove spring covering pin, it unwinds.

I walked this section before and I'd say 90% of the insulators are common Dominion 42s, there were a few CD 152s and spools etc. Someone picked the downed poles clean except for the rubber insulators.

No CD 143s at all, they were removed decades ago.

To mount a battery grip, you'll have to remove the battery cover. Some of Sony's consumer models, as the Alpha 100 and Alpha 58, aren't intended to do so. But it works - just unscrew the two screws (mouseover-note in the image) near the cover's mount. The camera's case won't open but you can bend-wangle-press-squeeze the cover out without any damage.

These cranes are removing the Reactors from the Hydrocracker Unit (HCU) at Shell Haven Oil Refinery (September 24th 2003). They went abroad, I believe it was Holland or Germany.

 

See it On the ground

Hard drive is exposed. It looks like it would be easy to replace too.

IMG_0747 rubbish and phone wires removed-DeNoiseAI-denoise

 

Background remove

Blur background

Color changing

Background change

Batman Mego style figure, Figures Toy Company

We hadn't planed of taking the motor and box out,but decided that it wasn't much more work to do so and it would make it easier to sandblast the chassis, Good job we did as we found that all four engine mounts were broken. So it was only held in place by the drive shaft and gearbox rear mounting.......bit of a worry.

Lower Hutt Oct 2013.

Rollei 35 LED

German viewfinder camera, produced 1978 ~ 1980.

  

The Threaded Ring of the Guide Flange removed.

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WARNING :

This image is intended as a reference for the more experienced camera service man. If you have no experience in camera repair please do yourself a favor and send your camera to a professional service shop. It would be a pity to lose a vintage camera in a failed repair attempt !

 

Composed, still able to remove hair from lip gloss. Crucial.

Retrofit Enquiry Hotline / 安裝查詢: +852 92546911 / comandexpert@gmail.com - Ricky

Remove stones from cherries, boil sugar and water 10 minutes, add fruit and cook till the syrup will jell, bottle, seal.

Should anyone wish me to remove any of these photos from the net please let me know via a comment.

 

I have loved balconies since I can remember. There were shuttered windows in France, Balconies made of decayed stonework in Palermo, the washing poking out into the street in Singapore, air conditioners of Hong Kong, the caged balconies of Kunming, and now these curvy balconies in Macau. I like balconies that have washing drying, where you can get a glimpse of something inside, and balconies that show something of their owners proclivities such as when they are storage areas for cats, mopeds or toys.

 

Balconies are windows to homes, to little worlds where everything, especially love, takes place. Love takes us home.

 

Underwear theft is a popular crime in at least one East Asian country. I am not a thief, and even if I were I'd sooner covet an iPhone. Underwear theft is really, really weird. But having said that I find myself able to at least hazard a guess at what underwear thieves are up to. Perhaps they stroke their stolen underwear, or rub soft cotton against their skin. Probably some of them sniff the underwear. Others may wear the underwear that they have stolen, perhaps even on their head. All these men that steal underwear are attempting to feel an intimacy - with the owner of the underwear - that does not in reality exist. Underwear thieves are lonely, voyeuristic, sex criminals (pick your degree of abhorrence).

 

But what of balcony likers? I guess that I am voyeuristic at the very least.

Removing my frilly laced ankle socks :)

Comes off counter-clockwise, using a spanner wrench.

Quay crane has it's damaged boom removed for repair

Some of you may have noticed that, unfortunately, owing to the fact that a certain person based in Kent who sells truck photos on eBay commercially has been lifting my images from this album and selling them I have had to remove 2300 photos that didn't have a watermark. I have now run around 1700 through Lightroom and added a watermark with the intention of bulk uploading them again. Rather than watermark the existing (hidden) files in Flickr one at a time it will be easier to do it this way. I definitely won’t be adding individual tags with the make and model of each vehicle I will just add generic transport tags. Each photo is named after the vehicle and reg in any case. For anyone new to these images there is a chapter and verse explanation below. It is staggering how many times I get asked questions that a quick scan would answer or just as likely I can’t possibly answer – I didn’t take them but just to clarify-I do own the copyright- and I do pursue copyright theft.

 

This is a collection of scanned prints from a collection of photographs taken by the late Jim Taylor A number of years ago I was offered a large number of photographs taken by Jim Taylor, a transport photographer based in Huddersfield. The collection, 30,000 prints, 20,000 negatives – and copyright! – had been offered to me and one of the national transport magazines previously by a friend of Jim's, on behalf of Jim's wife. I initially turned them down, already having over 30,000 of my own prints filed away and taking space up. Several months later the prints were still for sale – at what was, apparently, the going rate. It was a lot of money and I deliberated for quite a while before deciding to buy them. I did however buy them directly from Jim’s wife and she delivered them personally – just to quash the occasional rumour from people who can’t mind their own business. Although some prints were sold elsewhere, particularly the popular big fleet stuff, I should have the negatives, unfortunately they came to me in a random mix, 1200 to a box, without any sort of indexing and as such it would be impossible to match negatives to prints, or, to even find a print of any particular vehicle. I have only ever looked at a handful myself unless I am scanning them. The prints are generally in excellent condition and I initially stored them in a bedroom without ever looking at any of them. In 2006 I built an extension and they had to be well protected from dust and moved a few times. Ultimately my former 6x7 box room office has become their (and my own work’s) permanent home.

I hope to avoid posting images that Jim had not taken his self, however should I inadvertently infringe another photographers copyright, please inform me by email and I will resolve the issue immediately. There are copyright issues with some of the photographs that were sold to me. A Flickr member from Scotland drew my attention to some of his own work amongst the first uploads of Jim’s work. I had a quick look through some of the 30 boxes of prints and decided that for the time being the safest thing for me to do was withdraw the majority of the earlier uploaded scans and deal with the problem – which I did. whilst the vast majority of the prints are Jims, there is a problem defining copyright of some of them, this is something that the seller did not make clear at the time. I am reasonably confident that I have since been successful in identifying Jims own work. His early work consists of many thousands of lustre 6x4 prints which are difficult to scan well, later work is almost entirely 7x5 glossy, much easier to scan. Not all of the prints are pin sharp but I can generally print successfully to A4 from a scan.

 

You may notice photographs being duplicated in this Album, unfortunately there are multiple copies of many prints (for swapping) and as I have to have a system of archiving and backing up I can only guess - using memory - if I have scanned a print before. The bigger fleets have so many similar vehicles and registration numbers that it is impossible to get it right all of the time. It is easier to scan and process a print than check my files - on three different PC’s - for duplicates. There has not been, nor will there ever be, any intention to knowingly breach anyone else's copyright. I have presented the Jim Taylor collection as exactly that-The Jim Taylor Collection- his work not mine, my own work is quite obviously mine.

Unfortunately, many truck spotters have swapped and traded their work without copyright marking it as theirs. These people never anticipated the ease with which images would be shared online in the future. I would guess that having swapped and traded photos for many years that it is almost impossible to control their future use. Anyone wanting to control the future use of their work would have been well advised to copyright mark their work (as many did) and would be well advised not to post them on photo sharing sites without a watermark as the whole point of these sites is to share the image, it is very easy for those that wish, to lift any image, despite security settings, indeed, Flickr itself, warns you that this is the case. It was this abuse and theft of my material that led me to watermark all of my later uploads. I may yet withdraw non-watermarked photos, I haven’t decided yet. (I did in the end)

To anyone reading the above it will be quite obvious that I can’t provide information regarding specific photos or potential future uploads – I didn’t take them! There are many vehicles that were well known to me as Jim only lived down the road from me (although I didn’t know him), however scanning, titling, tagging and uploading is laborious and time consuming enough, I do however provide a fair amount of information with my own transport (and other) photos. I am aware that there are requests from other Flickr users that are unanswered, I stumble across them months or years after they were posted, this isn’t deliberate. Some weekends one or two “enthusiasts” can add many hundreds of photos as favourites, this pushes requests that are in the comments section ten or twenty pages out of sight and I miss them. I also have notifications switched off, I receive around 50 emails a day through work and I don’t want even more from Flickr. Other requests, like many other things, I just plain forget – no excuses! Uploads of Jim’s photos will be infrequent as it is a boring pastime and I would much rather work on my own output.

 

On Saturday, Sept. 15 a contractor crew from Rock Supremacy had crews rope up and removed unstable rocks from the hillside above SR 11 just south of milepost 12 in northern Skagit County. They brought down about 20 cubic yards of unstable material. WSDOT maintenance crews will cleanup and haul out the debris before reopening the highway.

Asplund's Holy Cross Chapel and crematorium (1935-1940), a stripped-classical affair two decades and a world removed from the vernacular of the Woodland Chapel, but very much in step with the trends of the 1930s. We didn't get inside and my close-up shots were all lousy exposures, so please see Ken's and Seier's shots, which suggest a greater complexity and sensitivity than seen in many works of this style and era. I am reminded also of Eliel Saarinen's late work at Cranbrook, among other things. The spatial sensibility is Modern - think Mies, early or late - but it's divorced from the dogmatic attitude about materials which might grouse at what is obviously a steel skeleton, displaying itself as cut marble. Asplund was of a generation and mindset that could sidestep that quagmire and focus on spatial and emotional effects; later, people like Kahn would struggle to integrate these approaches but invariably come up with something much heavier in their efforts to find "honesty" in spanning openings.

 

The big granite cross (1939) is also Asplund. See introductory comments on the cemetery here.

Five of them, the two that go on the left (1,2) are shorter than the other three (3, 4, 5). One of the long ones (5) is hidden under the Multi Switch.

Remove the basting thread and, starting at the keyhole cut exactly between the machine stitching. Use fine, sharp scissors. Do not be tempted to slash it with your unpicking tool, or any other implement!

My favorite flavor of pie, made by Sara Lee. My favorite cream pie, that is. For generic eating, my favorite pie is apple. And anyway, I didn't even eat these pies; instead, The Wife graciously put them in my face. Obviously, if you get a pie in the face, it should taste good, right?

 

(Not that I have a wide-spread expertise in this or anything, but Sara Lee's cream pies are awesome for face-splatting. They're thick and have nice weight to them without being so heavy that it feels like you've been hit in the face with a brick, and they stick to the face nicely too.)

 

(I have a few other photos of myself getting pied around here; click the tags on the right to see more of them. I posted a more in-depth explanation of my love of pies in the face in general and pies in my face in particular on my blog -- there's even a video! Yes, I know that enjoying getting hit in the face with pies is weird. You're weird, too. So thbbbppppt!)

It's easy., at this remove from eighty years later, to believe that the end of the second world war meant that the world enjoyed immediate and stable peace.

 

Nothing could be further from the truth: there were fears of the war continuing as a struggle between the democracies of the West and the Communist bloc, with nuclear weapons able to annihilate entire cities. Britain prepared by building its own nuclear deterrent, whilst to protect the civilian population it rebuilt the ARP function - now known as Civil Defence, or CD. It also needed people to join the Auxiliary Fire Service and as Police Specials - fully qualified, but on-call, firefighters and Police.

 

The Civil Defence Corps, the auxiliary Fire Service and the Police needed recruits - thousands of them. Local authorities up and down the country were responsible for full and part-time posts to observe incoming aircraft, or look after areas of each town to rescue survivors and help the Police keep order in a post-apocalypse Britain.

 

Bolton Corporation used a fairly imaginative way to raise awareness and gain recruits for its CD unit, Fire Service and Police. Withdrawn Leyland bus number 186 was taken into the paint shop where the Corporation Transport's craftsmen gave full head to their creative talents, with this amazing advertising livery. 186 was driven around Bolton to drum up recruits - we don't know how successful it was in Bolton, but we do know that it was always a struggle to get CD recruits as the pay was very low and as time went on, its relevance faded as the Cold War settled into a semi-stable, sullen sense of mutual destruction.

 

By then 186 had also lost its relevance - after a time promoting Civil Defence, 186 was sent to the scrapyard. You can still see preserved Bolton buses, not least number 77 of 1956 which is now in the Museum of Transport Greater Manchester.

 

If you'd like to know more about the Museum of Transport Greater Manchester and its collection of vintage buses, go to motgm.uk.

 

© Greater Manchester Transport Society. All rights reserved. Unauthorised reproduction is strictly prohibited and may result in action being taken to protect the intellectual property interests of the Society.

I will do any photo background remove. if you any interested.

contact with me.

Link.... bit.ly/2CSZh0p

Deboxing Designer Pocahontas. The clear acrylic cover of the case has been removed, so Pocahontas is now in the open. The spacer has been freed from the backing, and the various tacks attaching the dress to the backing have been removed, so now the doll can be freed from the backing. However she is still attached to the plastic spacer, and she is still supported by the built-in doll stand. There is a wire wrapped around her legs that secures her to the doll stand.

 

First look at the Disney Princess Designer Collection Pocahontas Doll. She was released by the Disney Store in October 2011. I got her new in box from eBay shortly afterwards, so It's been more than a year and a half since i got this doll. But I have not yet deboxed her, and this the first time I am doing a full photoshoot of her. I will photograph her boxed, during her deboxing, and fully deboxed.

 

My Pocahontas doll is a limited edition doll, numbered 2460 of 4000. She comes in an acrylic case with a built-in doll stand, with a base that has a golden filigree design, and a golden metallic nameplate. There is also a cardboard cover for the case that I have not photographed here.

 

She is 11 1/2'' tall, and has the same body as the other Designer Princess dolls, with jointed neck, shoulders, elbows, wrists, waist, hips and knees (internal). She has rubber legs and fixed ankles, with feet angled for high heels.

 

She has jet black, long straight hair in a pony tail that is about 10'' long, so almost reaches the floor. She has a unique sort of method of tying her hair at the top of the ponytail, that partially uses her own hair, along with black rubberbands, that looks very elegant. She has medium dark brown skin, and a unique face sculpt that is very pretty and movie accurate. She has small, narrow slanted light brown eyes. She has silver and dark brown eye shadow, and dark brown eyebrows. She has rooted eyelashes, that are tapered in length from short to long, then at the ends there are very long curved antenna like lashes. She has a long thin nose, full pale pink lips in with a closed mouth. She has a serious expression on her face, which combined with her upward looking head position makes her look aloof or angry in the original packaging. I was glad to debox her so I could change her pose to a more natural looking one, and make her look serious but serene. She has a dark brown tribal tattoo in her upper right arm.

 

Her gown is made of dark brown suede-like material, with a dark brown satin lining underneath. It is floor length, and has a round train in the back, the full extend of which can be seen only when she is deboxed, and the packaging restraints removed. There are opal colored gems interspersed throughout the front of the gown, then at the upper part of the bodice the gems are placed very densely. The right side is strapless, and the left side has a yellow-brown beaded sleeve/strap, which extends to border the gemmed area of the bodice. The gown is very elegant and luxurious.

 

She is wearing dark brown high heeled shoes.

 

Her accessories are a purse and earrings. The purse is a oval dark brown clutch, with opal-like gems and golden colored clasp. It is not functional. Her earrings are small opal colored round studs.

This is the best thing l have found so far to remove the silicon that gets on the surface of tiles etc when gluing with silicon. l have used it on the mosaic bottles and it does a good job. l have been trying not to get too much on the surface when working but l find it hard not to get some on there.

the usual, water damage (04/14/10)

These are some of the signs I've taken down (without telling anyone) around my library since I've worked here. I think an uncluttered area is nicer, and that fewer good signs is better than lots of signs that no one reads. Read more of my complaining on my website.

I tried to remove the rear springs to get it lower. It worked, of course but it was way to bumpy and you could feel how some parts screamed in pain.

I had a total of 7 lipomas removed from my left thigh. I am blessed with having them. My mom and my brother have them. I seem to have a lot. This is just the first of many procedures. The longest cut is about 5.1 cm. The doctor removed 2 at the same time. They are sore, sore, sore. Yet they are so fun, fun, fun. I think I am going to so jogging and than do some squats. I will post more photos as they heal.

Removing all people prompt, but missed some people.

Removing graffiti is a tedious process that requires training, approved cleaning materials, and carrying heavy equipment to remote sites. Email graffiti offenses to jotr_graffiti@nps.gov with photos and as many identifying location details as possible.

 

NPS / Anna Cirimele

 

Alt Text: A volunteer with safety gloves on scrubs Elephant Snot into graffiti painted on a rock. This is the first stage towards removal.

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