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The HDMI Wall plate allows you to terminate an HDMI connector at the wall for in-wall installation. The HDMI Wall plate is made to fit into a standard US wall mount hole, similar to an AC outlet or light switch. Their practical design makes these wall plates an ideal solution for HDMI cable extensions for home or business location. HDMI connector included.
How it works
Allows you to terminate HDMI connectors at the wall for in-wall installation.
Specifications:
* HDMI Input/Output Connector: type A 19 pin
* Dimensions: 2.75W x 4.5H
Soon the new day will begin to fill with life. More people will be on the streets. Everything getting more busy.
But so far, it's just a morning. A magic moment. A good memory to be made.
our sunsets are gorgeous, but tend to be framed with a myriad of telephone and power cables.
#2013PAD
Friday Photos theme: Frame
photo 1 of 3
#fp13
First before I can really start on the top I need to lay the electronics. Unfortunately thats easyer said than done. Despite having drawn a diagram, I didn't update it with any changes I made to the bottom, and I don't remember what I did, or what I was thinking. So now I have 3 powercables comming off the bottom, one in the center, with a 5 port board to be used for an unknown purpose, and two at the back, one for engines and the other to presumably connect to the center. To make matters worse a lot of the electric boards and wires that I used on the bottom, have been discontinued by Brickstuff.com. I needed a few more 5 port expansion boards which they no longer make.
For the middle I had to make due with a 10 port expansion board, which is overkill but it's what I had left. I made the same mount for it as I did for the bottom one. For some stupid reason I never took photos of the upgrade I made for the main power hub which was also a 10 port board. So with out taking the cover apart I made an educated guess as to what I did for the upgrade and I think I got it right because it secures the board with out play.
For the pico lights in the bridge, and the engines I used a 3 port board, with one large plug for power and two smaller ones for the lights, which also is no longer available. However they do sell a 4 port board with both large and small plugs which also comes with holes on the sides (pictured above), which eliminates the need for the box I used on the flip side, and can be held more securely with lego rods.
At the back near the engines I had to connect two 3 port boards with one of my few remaining 2" cables to make up for the loss of the 5 port boards, I connected to those the aft lights with my last 12" cableI and used two 6" cables to connect the boards for the lights in the port side and starboard side engines.
I bought some more cables but the plugs were all the wrong size, and these things are not cheep! So now I have to try to return them, and try to source the 2" cables from some where else. I need at least a dozen 2" cables to connect the LED strips in the front of the ship which I can no longer get. They are discontinuing the 6" cables with large plugs so I snagged a pack of those before they ran out. They still sell the heavy duity 12" which I also purchaced more of, and 24" cables, which I already have way too many of. I don't really know where to go to buy more of the 2" cables, so I'd appreciate any help I can get on tracking these things down.
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NEXT STEP... Adding a new longer cable to the foot pedal
FIRST - I repeated the steps in photos 5 - 12, (i.e. replacing the old cable from the plug-end the one that slots into the motor of the sewing machine).
THEN, it was time to open up the foot-pedal to connect the other end of new cable to the inside - which would complete my upgrading task!
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LONG METAL PIN
This a) holds the top + bottom halves of the pedal-casing, it is also b) the point around which the pedal pivots when it is lowered or raised.
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Mauritius, Port Louis, cars parked on road by wall with trees and mountain peak in background against cloudy sky
Wired Electricians Logo. Logo showing illustration of a power lineman telephone repairman worker holding wire cable over shoulder done in retro style set inside circle.
I had a good and relaxing weekend, and now I can't believe that the week is already half over!
I went up north to relax with some friends, and on Sunday we woke up to a ton of snow and almost got marooned up there. I woke up just before sunrise, and it was all blue outside and the snow had taken a short break. It was awesome--pity I didn't have my camera.
This photo was taken from Shifting Pixel (Permalink, additional comments)
Close-up view of bottom of the foot pedal.
BROWN = Live wire
BLUE = Neutral wire
SPRING
When you press your foot down, and then you release the pressure it’s the spring that helps the foot to raise itself back to the start position.
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CAPACITOR
These MUST be handled with extreme caution. They can store electricity for an indefinite period of time (even if they are not connected to a power supply). WARNING - there is a risk of fatal electrocution!!!
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The 4x4 Atlona HDMI Matrix Switcher with RS-232 and IR Remote is designed to work as a switcher for multiple sources and displays.With a maximum bandwidth of 1.65Gbps, this device will support a sharp and highly defined video in multiple resolutions of up to 1080p. Because it is a matrix switcher, it allows any input to be routed to any output; or the same input to be routed to all outputs or any combination. It completely eliminates the need to constantly move around video input and output cables. RS-232 control allows the switcher to be controlled by systems like Crestron or any computerized software/hardware control systems.
Before purchasing my new supplies I checked the details of the old cable.
The power cable (left) has a 1 A rating.
The foot pedal a 0.4 A rating.
Therefore, I did not need to spend more money on a higher rated cable (capable of a higher ampage). I actually bought 6 metres of a 3 AMP maximum load cable for my alterations. I also purchased some 3 A fuses (I only needed x1), to replace the standard 13A fuse inside of the new mains-plug I had bought to replace the old and yellowed one that came on the old lead/cable.
The Atlona AT-DVIFW10S is a Wall Plate Style DVI transmitter module with a DVI female input and a single fiber optics output (multi-mode). The AT-DVIFW10S is designed to work with multiple receiver modules:
* AT-DVIF20R - Miniature DVI Receiver module with single Fiber input and DVI Male output.
* AT-DVIFW10R - Wall Plate style DVI Receiver module with single Fiber input and DVI output
* AT-HDF20R – Miniature HDMI Receiver module with single Fiber input and HDMI Male output
* AT-HDFW10R – Wall Plate style HDMI Receiver module with single Fiber input and HDMI output
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Atlona Technologies presents the all new USB to HDMI adapter, the AT-HDPiX. This new solution is designed to add a HDMI port to any computer (Mac or PC) and has limitless applications in both consumer and commercial environments. From digital signage to home theater, the all new HDPiX provides a simple solution for viewing content from a computer on any HDTV making it the perfect device for any consumer or commercial application. Set up is as simple as plug and play; convenient for any user, no matter the level of technical knowledge. Connect up to 6 x AT-HDPiX to PC and up to 4 x AT-HDPiX to Mac.
The HDMI Amplifier Splitter is an HDMI splitter with multiple outputs. It distributes the input of the HDMI signal into the several identical outputs simultaneously. The series of this product has the ability of buffering and amplifying. Each amplifier splitter's output can achieve long distance transmission of HDMI signal of more than 15 meters. When two or more products are cascaded, they can create a larger distribution and longer in length.