View allAll Photos Tagged Compact,
Ground disc signal facilitating reversal from the up line towards the trailing crossover at Brampton Fell on 7 May 2008.
A compact alternative to the KP95, the KCP65 also fires the dangerous all new 6.5mm Kenet CQB round. Every KenetCorp executive is issued one, and they would be terrified to go without it.
In spite of its boxy design, this 1959 White 1500 Compact looked good dressed in the postal blue and white cab with red stripe. Notice the Civil Defense sticker on the door! This photo is one of many in the library of The Western Reserve Historical Society.
(not the lens...)
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Canon EOS 5D MkII + EF 1.4/50mm
ISO 3200 1/60 f3.2 -2EV
I took this for work the other day.
I think it captures the movement of the machine and the care and skill of the operator... more than I hoped for.
Chuffed with it :)
1995 Gios Compact Pro Evolution frame, Dedacciai Superlight tubeset, Kestrel EMS 1" threadless carbon fork with Cr-Mo steer tube. Size 60 with 57 cm top tube. 2002/2003 Campagnolo Chorus 10 Speed group. DT Swiss RR1450 Mon Chasseral wheels.
Voigtländer Vitessa 500 S with 2.8/42 Color-Lanthar in Prontor 500 LK shutter
Compact viewfinder camera with coupled CdS exposure meter for 35 mm film, the operation is fully manual. It belongs to a new series of Vitessa cameras which was launched in 1966 and has nothing to do with the Vitessas with "barn door" of the 1950ies. Voigtländer was already part of the Carl Zeiss Foundation then, but as far as I know the cameras were independently designed and produced by Voigtländer. But as you can see, the camera has the typical brick-shaped Zeiss Ikon look and most of the cameras I've seen were actually branded with "Zeiss Ikon Voigtänder".
The camera is well equipped and well made, some specs:
* Shutter speeds from 1/15 to 1/500 s and B
* Bright frame viewfinder with 3 icons for zone focusing, indication of the f-stop, match needle
* Film speed from 25 to 400 ASA
* Focusing range 1 m to infinity, DOF-scale
* Filter thread 30.5 mm
* Hot shoe, tripod mount, self-timer, cable release thread
* One mercury cell PX 625 is required
* The exposure meter can't be switched off
Film advance lever and rewind crank at the bottom. In a window on the back is the frame counter (self-resetting) and a control for the film transport. In the film chamber is a second sprocket wheel extra for that function. I haven't found out the meaning of the small green button, I assume it is for checking the battery power - it doesn't work on my copy.
The Vitessa series consists of five models. Here are their names, the year of introduction, the price in Deutsche Mark, and the amount of produced cameras.
500 L-1968-DM 238-15.800
500 S-1966-DM 298-14.800
500 AE-1966-DM 289-32.860
500 SE-1966-DM 334-17.500
1000 SR-1967-DM 276-18.500
(A bit confusing, that the SR was cheaper than the S, perhaps there is a mistake)
Here are the different features:
(Would be interesting to know, if the Tessar is actually a Skopar)
Color-Lanthar 2.8/42: L,S,AE
Tessar 2.8/42: SE,SR
Prontor 500 LK: L,S,
Prontor 1000 LK: SR
Prontor 500 electronic: AE,SE
Viewfinder: L,S,AE,SE
Rangefinder: SR
Manual mode: L,S,SR
Aperture priority AE: AE,SE
Selenium cell: L
CdS cell: S,AE,SE,SR
UPDATE: I recently got a 1000 SR. It had a little flaw, the sprocket wheel of the film transport ran uneven and was a bit askew. So I decided to open the camera, which turned to a little drama. I didn't found a hidden screw at the bottom, so I temporarily wished the designer to the moon. Finally everything went well and here is an instruction for disassembly. I seldom make a warning, but here I do: don't open the that camera until you know what you are doing! No warranty!
* It's probably a good idea to remove the door of the film chamber first: remove the leatherette of the side with the hinge, unscrew the three bigger screws.
Start with the bottom
* Remove film advance lever: 3 screws under the decoration plate, 2 washers under the lever.
* Pull out rewind crank and unscrew screw in the center, the crank will fall in parts. Remove clamp, pull out shaft.
* Unscrew 2 screws, one of each side of the camera under the leatherette, near the bottom, the black ones.
* The third screw is well hidden under a round covering plate which is half covered by the battery compartment lid.
* Now it should be possible to lift up the bottom plate, the rewind unlock button will fall out, mind the springs of the 2(!) tooth wheel locks near the film advance lever.
(In the rewind unlock button is a set screw to adjust the white tooth wheel into the correct position)
If you really want to remove the front then:
The lens/shutter and the rangefinder/viewer-unit remain mounted to the front plate.
* You have to disengage the coupling between the shutter button and the gear at the bottom. If you play with the shutter button you'll certainly see it. You have to remove the clamp ring. Note the position of the spring nearby.
* Remove the plastic cap of the shutter button, 2 screws.
* Unscrew screw in the film chamber under the shutter button. You can reach it with a long screw driver through the hole of the rewind crank.
* Unscrew 6 screws on the front, 3 on each side of the lens under the leatherette.
* Now it should be possible to pull out the front plate.
To my problem: actually the bearing of the shaft of the sprocket wheel was a bit out of its position. That bearing is mounted very solidly, thus I assume that somebody tried to rewind the film with tremendous force without pressing the unlock button. I needed strong pliers to bend back the bearing.
Fuji X-Pro1, Pentax A 100mm lens
Even though the camera was made in Japan and the flash in Singapore
22 Likes on Instagram
2 Comments on Instagram:
jo__lees: Where is that? Looks familiar...
alexdircks: Just off Norton St, Leichhardt
This is most of my new Strobist set up.
I say most, I've probably forgot to include something...
I'll list where and why I got them, and for how much.
So frooom the top...
2x Lastolite Umbrella Tiltheads with Hotshoes - Warehouse Express - £16.99 each.
Its compact and light weight, but nice and sturdy. Its got a ratcheted tilt action, so its more secure, and has a thumbscrew for securing a brollie shaft.
The shoes strange. It has a metal edge, out of contact of the pins, but the middle is a sort of soft metallic covering.
Its triggered the flash a couple of times when putting it on, so some electrical tape is on the cards...
2x Lastolite Lumen8 Pneumatic Stands - Warehouse Express - £24.46 each.
As I'm just dabbling in the world of Strobism, I couldnt justify buying the Manfrotto Nano stands, as much as I'd like them.
I toyed with the idea of cheap Ebay ones, but in the end settled for these. Safer bet buying from a reputable brand.
Nice and sturdy, and not too heavy. Fold down to about 85cms. About 95-100cm with the flash stand ontop.
Air cushioned, so it doesn't go colapsing down and trappin' your fingers. Really well built.
2x Westcott 43" Convertible umbrellas. - Bought from a private seller, here on Flickr, although available from the States. - £32.50 each.
As endorsed by the Strobist, David Hobby himself.
These big arsed umbrellas lull you into a false sense of security.
They double fold, as in the umbrellas its self is hinged, and the shaft is in 2-3 pieces. Collapsed, they're only 15in long, and fit nicely in the side pocket of my carry case.
When opened, they're huuuuge!
I got the 'Convertible' ones. They're satin white, with a removable black back, so they can be used as reflective, with the cover on, or shoot throughs, with the cover off.
The shafts are a bit thin, but I've reinforced mine with cut down pencils. See here.
Over all, really pleased with them. Good light transmission when used reflectively, and lovely soft, even light when used as shoot through. Plus they fold up nice n small.
2x Nikon SB-28 Speedlights/Flashguns. - Bought second hand. One back when I started photography 3 years ago, the other a couple of weeks back - Expect to pay between £70-120.
I got one back when I started in photography, a few years back with an old Nikon F90x film camera.
I could have got another flash cheaper. But it would have meant learning to use another, and I still struggle with the SB-28 =D
Nice and powerful, GN of about 118 (ft), 36 (m). Reliable. And really user friendly, like most Nikon strobes.
The Cactus V4's.
2x Revievers. 1x Transmitter. - Direct from Gadget Infinity.Set = £25.91 aprox. Spare Reviever = £15.53 aprox.
After reading so many horror stories about the V2's, and then the first batch of V4's, I was apprehensive.
But after the second batch was released, good reviews started coming out, and people started raving about them.
For the price, I figured it was a safe gamble. They don't cost much. And if they do what people say, then they're definitely worth it.
I haven't had any problems with mine, at all, so far. And thats with alot of testing.
Theres not much to say really...
If you're wondering how mine are attached, see here.
1x 1 meter coiled Screwlock PC to Screwlock PC sync cord. - Flash Zebra - £11.06.
I got this for quick, off the cuff, off camera shooting.
Has the Nikon Screwlock fitting, so it attaches securly to the camera and flash.
Relaxed its about 1ft long. Stretched out it reaches about 1m.
2x custom LEE gel sets. - www.skategoat.com/ - £3.29 each.
Put these custom sets together myself. Wide range to choose from, and premade sets available too.
Mine have full, 1/2 & 1/4 CTO. full, 1/2 & 1/4 CTB. full, 1/2 & 1/4 window Green. Lee 103 Straw & Lee 790 Moroccan Pink.
2x Nikon AS-19 Flash Stands - Warehouse Express - £5.25 each.
For table top shooting.
They have a cold shoe that'll take any flash [except the SB-900], not just Nikons.
Thats it really...
Uniross 2500MAh rechargeable batteries and cases. - Batteries from World Of Batteries - Ebay Cases from RPT Batteries and chargers
I got the batteries at the same time as two Uniross X-Press 700 chargers, which each came with 4 of the same batteries.
I'm now rocking 16 in total. 4 in each of the flashes. 8 spare, 4 for each.
The cases I bought to keep track of what needed charging and what didn't.
Blue = ready to use. Red = needs charging.
See, I can be organised...
2 x Hama 1 meter coiled PC - PC sync cords. - Speed Graphic - £7.50 each.
A pair of male PC to male PC cords. Got these for when working close up with both flashes, incase the radio triggers don't like the close range.
1x Multipurpose Hotshoe Adapter - Flash Zebra - £6.95 aprox.
Got this for when I'm working close up and want to use both strobes.
This also works well when using my light tent.
This behind it, on a Cactus V4 reciver, this leading to both strobes via PC cables.
The Battery Case
4x Uniross AAA Hybrio batteries for the Cactus V4 recievers.
4 [was 5]x Duracell L1028/23A 12v Alkaline batteries - Cactus Transmitter.
2x button cell type batteries - Nikon ML-L3 IR remote, for my D70.
The Uniross AAA Hybrios are the only real interesting thing in there.
They come fully charged. Are rechargeable. And if not used, will hold their full charge for upto a year!
Perfect for the recievers.
Calumet Extra Large Tripod Bag - Calumet - £29.99.
To carry everything in, basically...
I probably could have got away with the shorter one. But I figured I'd go with this.
Plenty of space in there for the stands.
The side pocket it just over 15in long, so takes the Westcott umbrellas perfectly, and it has a little pocket inside that which I keep cables, the AS-19 stands, and other bits and pieces in.
And I think thats it really...
Anything else you wanna know.
Feel free to ask.
The world is full of phenomens that normal "behaviorism" or other sciences cannot explain. One of them is a basic question 'Why in the heck have three Panasonics?"
From left to right:
Panasonic Lumix DMC-TZ22
See a review:
www.cnet.com/products/panasonic-lumix-dmc-tz22-digital-ca...
Leica D-LUX 4
The D-Lux 4 is Leica's version of the Panasonic LX3, a luxury (in its own time!) 10-megapixel compact camera.
See reviews: www.trustedreviews.com/Leica-D-Lux-4_Digital-Camera_review
and
www.dpreview.com/forums/thread/3405394
and a sample of top journalism:
www.kenrockwell.com/leica/d-lux-4.htm
This second/third/... hand market find is my fave in spite of the very small zooming range. The IQ is splendid even in low light conditions!
Panasonic Lumix DMC-TZ10
This one has absolutely the worst IQ of these three; one couldn't believe that it uses Leica glass. Updating the firmware helped by no means. A bad camera is a bad camera even in "good light" conditions.
See a review:www.dpreview.com/products/panasonic/compacts/panasonic_dm...
At the beginning of the 90s Nikon issued two elite class compact cameras with impressive lenses, professional features and titanium bodies: the 35Ti and the 28Ti.
The 35Ti was issued in 1993 (available in chrome), the 28Ti in 1994 (available in black).
Both models are very similar and feature a realy cool and unique analoge display-system to show aperture, distance, film-counter and exposure correction values.
Another M1911 pistol! This is the 'commando compact'. It is available in 10mm auto and 45 ACP
A bit rough on some points, but i think it is one of the best 1911 pistols i have ever made. Maybe the best.
1995 BMW 316i Compact.
Last taxed in December 2022 and last Mot test expired in December 2023.
Photo with kind permission of [https://www.flickr.com/photos/34679063@N04].
Watch out for this little fellow he's got some zing to his sting. You may have a reaction to his sting with itching, rash, welt or all three. When the're not curled up, they look like walking toothbrush's :-) This is a Tussock moth/caterpillar, or larvae stage.