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A V-22 Osprey unfolds it's rotors as the crew preps the aircraft for departure from the California International Air Show.
This was the Agfa of salvation, the one that would keep the brand afloat as a camera maker. Presented in 1980, it was the stubborn Germanic answer to the Japanese tsunami that killed the German camera industry in the 60’s and 70’s. This was a moment of hope for AGFA, a return with a very interesting camera, where the attention to the design was surprising. The styling is very pleasant, a very small and original shape created by Schlagheck design of Munich. It faithfully follows the Bauhaus credo, from follows function, but the result here is an original and pretty camera. The master stroke is the sliding On/Off switch that covers the camera’s viewfinder. Slide it and the camera comes alive, the lens cover opens and the Solinar pops out, very neat. All this done electrically, something that would become the norm up to the present days. The lens was brand new, but it was another variation of the old Solinar, AGFA’s version of the Tessar. Here we have a rather surprising 39 mm /2.8 lens. I believe it to be a 40 mm lens, they chose the 39 mm to clearly send the message that this lens wasn’t the old Solitar 40/ 2.8 of the Optimas of old. The big splash was the electric motor responsible for popping out the lens and wind the film at a speedy 2fps. This looked like a cracking little camera destined for fame and success. Sadly, it was not to be.
It is easier to find a person born in the 19th century and breathing than to find an Agfa Compact in working condition. This lack of reliability eventually killed the camera and AGFA as camera maker in 1983. It seems underdeveloped, that scale focusing is out of pace with the rest of the camera, as is the viewfinder devoid of any sort of info, just a red lamp for flash turn on. While the manually wound previous Optima series had an automatic loading of the film, with this one you get a motor but you have to put the film tip in the reel’s slot. The flash is just like the Olympus XA, Canon MC or Minolta AF-C, a separate unit that connects to the left side of the camera. There is provision for a cable release, but oddly no self-timer. The electric motor emits a noise as If all the gears were about to break when the camera is switched on. Film winding is not exactly silent either, but not remotely comparable to the Canon ML
The camera’s Bauhaus design might be impressive, beautiful, functional, daring, but the Konica C35 AF already existed and had what people really needed, autofocus, integrated flash. No electric motor, a very dull design, but a coherent concept. Still, this little AGFA is very engaging, but I am not very sure that it works well, fingers crossed for the Tmax 100!
Why cant these camera manufacturer's produce a Owners Manual that not only names the buttons, levers & dials but actually tells you what each of them does and why you would want to use them in the first place, some of us are NOT techies or Rocket Scientists.
Car: BMW 316i Compact.
Year of manufacture: 1999.
Date of first registration in the UK: 20th May 1999.
Place of registration: Chelmsford.
Date of last MOT: 7th April 2021.
Mileage at last MOT: 100,621.
Last change of keeper: 9th August 2020
Date taken: 3rd June 2021.
Album: Carspotting 2021
I will be using this camera in week 325 of my 52 film cameras in 52 weeks project:
www.flickr.com/photos/tony_kemplen/collections/72157623113584240
Some compact 35mm cameras side by side.
Olympus Pen S
Olympus Trip 35
Olympus XA + A16
Olympus Mju I / 1
Olympus Mju I / 1 limited , serial number 00001xx
Olympus Mju II / 2
Olympus Mju II / 2 Zoom 80
Nikon L35AF
Nikon L35AF2
Nikon L35AF3
Yashica T
Yashica T2
Yashica T3
Yashica T4
Yashica J-Mini Super
Pentax Espio Mini / UC-1
Pentax PC35AF-M
Minolta Hi-Matic 7s II
Minolta AF-C + EF-C
Minolta Riva Mini ( same thing as Leica Mini )
Canon G-III QL17 + Canonlite D
Canon MC + MC-S
Minox 35 GT + TC 35
Ricoh FF-1 + SL 121A
Konica EU Mini Peanuts
Belomo Agat 18k
Lomo LC-A+
Vivitar 28mm fixed focus
Minox 35 ML with Color-Minotar 2.8/35
Compact camera for 35 mm film with manual focusing, aperture priority automatic exposure and programmed shutter AE.
It was introduced in 1985, about 10 years after the first Minox 35, the 35 EL. It has a broader top, but otherwise it looks pretty much the same. And it has some nice improvements, which make the camera very usable, e.g. it uses a battery which is available today, has an exposure lock and the shutter speeds are indicated in the viewfinder with some LEDs instead of a needle.
Some specs and features:
* Shutter speeds from 1 s to 1/500 s @ ISO 100 (at the long end faster/slower for higher/lower ISO-values)
* Electronic shutter
* ISO range: 25 to 1600
* Lens with 4 elements
* Nearest focus distance: 0.9 m
* For advancing the film you have to swing the advance lever twice
* Switches for self-timer and exposure correction ("x2" = +1 EV)
* Battery test button
* Thread for cable release
* Tripod socket
* Bright frame viewfinder without parallax marks
* If the flap is closed, the shutter button is locked and the electronic is switched off entirely (no battery consumption)
* Exposure lock with half-pressed shutter button
* Battery required: PX 28, 6 V. Or a stack of 4xLR44.
* In the viewer LEDs for P-mode, underexposure/slow shutter speeds (> 1/30), shutter speed ranges 1/30 .. 1/500 s, overexposure. In P-mode only "P" and underexposure/slow speeds are indicated. The brightness of the LEDs is adapted to the scene.
* Minox offered 3 flashes for the ML (and its sister, the MB): MF 35, MF 35ST and MT 35 (the most powerful, GN 26). You can use most other common flashes, but not Minox flashes which are made for Minox 35 cameras with the smaller top (FC 35, FC 35ST, TC 35 for 35 GT, PL, GL, EL).
* A switch in the hot shoe sets the shutter speed automatically to 1/125 s when a flash is mounted
* Size: 32 x 62 x 100 mm
* Weight: 180 g with battery
When buying another camera I got this ML for free additively - "I doesn't work anyway!" It was actually in a poor condition: cracks in the housing, window pane of the frame counter pushed in and the locking lever of the film chamber was broken away. Fortunately the previous owner kept it in the film chamber, so I just glued it on again. But when I pressed the shutter button, suddenly a shutter blade lay across in the lens - and I felt challenged.
So I opened the lens from the front side. Warning: if you remove the aperture ring, you simultaneously pull out a pin, which reaches deep into the camera, and it will require some work on reassembling. But I found the reason for the shutter blade on-the-run: the three blades are hinged between two rings, and those rings are hold together by three screws, which can be found under the aperture ring. Two of the screws were unscrewed entirely, the rings were loose and the shutter blade could slip away. I'm not the only one who has trouble with those screws, like I could see in some videos. If they are loose and sticking out, they can block the aperture ring.
For reassembling you possibly want to adjust the focus ring - with a matt screen at the focal plane and without B. You can darken the exposure meter cell and fire the shutter, it will open for a second, so you'll have time to remove the battery ..
While I was pottering around I noticed, that the only way to close the diaphragm is the aperture ring, there is no further connection. So how on earth the camera can close the diaphragm in program mode? The answer: it isn't necessary. In program mode (aperture ring to "P") the diaphragm is fully opened, and the camera uses the shutter blades instead to stop down, like on the Lomo LC-A and Konica C35. Nice design. BTW, it is the toggling between the two exposure modes which requires the pin on the rear of the aperture ring, which reaches deep into the camera.
You probably know, that older Minoxes are sometimes not very reliable: the shutter makes click, but it doesn't open. I thought, that this flaw was eliminated on later models, but I have the same trouble with the ML. And maybe I found a solution. If you open the camera back you can remove the baffle around the lens. It's just clicked in, but it is somewhat delicate, the two hooks are on top and below. With the baffle removed you have an excellent view onto the shutter assembly. You can see two magnetic coils, the one on top opens the shutter, the one below closes it. In front of each coil is a lever which is pushed away, when the coil is activated. Each lever is catching a pin which is connected with the shutter blades, when the shutter is cocked by operating the advance lever. It are those pins which are released, when the shutter is fired. Now, sometimes, the closer-pin is not pushed far enough to be caught when the advance lever is turned. That means, the shutter doesn't leave the closed position, and is already closed when the shutter is fired. So, on the right side you can see a strong lever, shaped like a fork, which transmits the movement from the advance lever to the shutter. My idea is, to "lift" that lever a tiny bit, so that the closer-pin is pushed further and can be caught. For that I loosen the two strong screws which are holding that lever, then I pushed the lever minimally upwards (and tightened up the screws again of course). As a result, the closer-pin is always caught, the shutter opens whenever the shutter button is pressed. I don't know, if this is working on every Minox 35, but here it looks very promising, still not tested with film though.
A rare caravan which has an elevating canvas-sided roof. These date from the early 1980s and would originally have been painted beige with white stripes.
Wan Tsui Estate (traditional Chinese: 環翠邨) is a public estate located at a part of former Chai Wan Estate and opposite to Chai Wan Station. It now has 11 residential buildings completed between 1979 and 2001.
環翠邨（Wan Tsui Estate）是香港島上的一個公共屋邨，位於香港東區柴灣，港鐵柴灣站現址附近一帶，前身為柴灣邨16至22座，第一座重建後的大廈於1979年落成後，房委會便將柴灣邨16至22座重新命名為環翠邨。
Hong Kong • 香港 '10