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This is my view of the diorama right before I start shooting. I'm either kneeling or sitting on the ground, so I can preview how the scene will look.
Along with moving the models and accessories around, I can swivel the base to get best view in relationship with the background.
If you cover up the bottom half of this photo with your hand, the magic takes place and scene comes into focus.
I'm amazed every time it happens. Really, how is this possible?
My self made wall mounts for my seamless paper background.
Yes and when I mean self made I mean self made.My daughter and I mount them on the wall:)
I baid like $25 for the hooks and one wooden pole.
This is the setup for the smoking shots with 2 SB-26 with snoots (so the light won't enter the lens) and PW, as close as possible to the incense stick, an incense stick and a plate under it so it won't burn anything, in case it falls for some reason, tripod for the camera and a black background (bought at a nearby store for 1,00 Euro), tuns the lights off and keep shooting until the incense burns out, repeat procedure until you can't stand no more the smell of the incense :)
Keep the room a little ventilate so it would not have too much smoke or else you do not get much detail and you do not fall over with the smell :)
When you photograph this Smokey things they'll turn out kind of a blueish smoke on black background sometimes could be boring and dull after 300 shots of the same thing... but then,
on Photoshop, you invert or not the image and use the Hue/Saturation to create colors of the image, also could use lasso tool on certain parts to give different colors to the smoke.
Give wings to your imagination on this...
Any help give me a line.
Enjoy !!!
Rui
Take a look at the full article on the Lighting Mods blog page.
This Pictures features in the new movie from the International award producer Dean Omori take a look at the movie here.
I think that this setup explains itself. Enjoy if you want to try it yourself!
STROBIST INFO:
1x Canon 540EZ flashunit was used at 1/2 power, added with a Stripbox and placed behind angled translucent reflector.
Flash was fired by Cactus V6 transceiver.
The LED flashlight clamped on a lightstand on the left, was used as modeling light for focusing the camera.
Behind the scenes for this photo for Macro Mondays:
www.flickr.com/photos/mag3737/53146548963
I stood next to the window for several minutes trying to determine the height and angle at which the light would reveal the hexagons without being visually overwhelmed by the circular patterns on the crowns of the bolts. It took long enough that I worried the sunlight would completely change before I figured it out.
But I did, and then it took me another few minutes to figure out how I could get this relatively heavy object to hold still at just exactly the angle and position I needed it. I envisioned needlessly-complicated structures (requiring various equipment that I don't have) before I hit upon the idea of an open book.
Here you see my setup with my fake wooden floor and one reflector.
I have those two windows and then to the left in front a big glass door.
At this time I only use natural light but will get me a of camera flash.
Link to the fake wooden floor:)
I put together a widefield setup from scraps and spare bits lying around to run as a secondary imaging rig. My main setup is a 100mm refractor on an EQ mount. My favorite star party of the year Okie-Tex is coming up, the first week of October. I want to maximize my time under the Bortle-1 skies.
This is an old Nikon D7100 from 2013, full-spectrum modified, a Rokinon 135mm prime lens, ZWO Eaf focuser, Sky-Watcher Evo-Guide, and ZWO ASI 178mm guide cam. The Nikon D7100's sensor is showing its age, but it can still get the job done with enough integration.
I like to use aluminum angle iron bolted to universal "bread plates". This way, I can mount accessories any way I need to.
I spent last Tuesday and Wednesday nights at CRO working the kinks out of this setup. After a few adjustments and swapping out guide cameras, it's working great. I tested it with APT, Backyard Nikon, PHD2 and Celestron PWI, and Cartes du Ciel.
I was able to get some data on the Nebulae near Deneb. The North America Nebula and the Pelican Nebula.
Image data:
88), 5-minute, iso-200, f/3.2 at 135mm, stacked with calibration frames. 90% of best subs stacked. Nikon D7100 (full spectrum modified), guided, stacked with DSS, processed in Pixinsight and Adobe Photoshop.
"I'm" kicking back while I'm setting up for a shot. Never a fun time for "me" or Jem.
This will give you a clue what's hopefully coming in a few days. It's been a time searching for a new location to shoot in, choosing lighting, making sure shadows are working and fingers aren't poking through handbags -- all the usual of good Second Life photography. And then posing, and coordinating the poses with Jemmy. We don't have nearly enough to choose 4-8 for a good photo spread in the blog, but we're trying every possibility.
Gown by Elegance Boutique; shoes by KC Couture; prop cigarette holder by JCNY Collection (vintage); headdress by Yula Finesmith (vintage); pearl jewelry by Zuri Rayna; jeweled eyebrows by PurpleMoon.
Mk2 10X microscope lens camera setup.
Using EOS to M42 adapter £5, set of M42 extension tubes £10. M42 to RMS cone £20 and a cheapish Olympus 10X plan lens £28. All new either from Ebay or Amazon.
The narrow end makes it easier to rest the lens on my hand and get a reasonable angle on a potential subject on a surface
setup for this.
Here is a run down of the gear used:
Shoe was placed on a well-cleaned piece of picture frame glass purchased at Home Depot (for only $4.95!). Glass was elevated using gobo arms so that I could shoot from underneath (I am sick of using fishing line to suspend floating objects-- but this trick proved to have too many obstacles so the search continues...)
Profoto Acute2 packs and heads were used. One head through soft box directly over the shoe as key. A second head with a 5 degree gridspot was used as a rim, to camera-right and behind the shoe, with a scrim to cut the output by a stop. A third light with another 5 degree grid illuminated the seamless background to add some drama. Many images were taken and combined by focus stacking to achieve even, sharp focus over the whole shoe. This was my first attempt at focus stacking.
I guess that's it. The nebula photo I dropped in the background is courtesy of NASA, and is in the public domain, as I believe most of their images are.
The masking I used in retouching allows me to change the orange in the shoe to any color, and since the Mercurials come in green and purple (at least that I know of ) I may consider a diptych or triptych later.
I took this with the lights turned back on to remind me how I got the gloomy, claustrophobic feel of Dark Ages.
Electric tea lights were the only light used for the photo. They were positioned to light the figure and the backdrop, but only a little.
MacBook Air setup for my recent video on Adobe CS6
MacBook Stand: www.amazon.com/dp/B000OOYECC/ref=as_li_ss_til?tag=theadvo...
MacBook Case: www.amazon.com/dp/B004PZVE8S/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_til?tag...