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Sensors get dirty, it is impossible to change lens and keep them clean...
Mine has to be cleaned two times a year or more.
When you choose smaller apertures, the dirt spots show shamelessly. In one of my last photos, www.flickr.com/photos/henrique_silva/6600173785/, the aperture was f/36 and so every little tiny bit of dirt was showing, I spent a little time in Lightroom cleaning them, but there are still some in the picture... It was urgent to clean the 40D's sensor
Again I went trough this delicate process, I use Sensor Scope from Delkin Devices, it works well, it uses a combination of vacuum cleaner and moistened sensor wands to get the job done. Here is a before / after mosaic, it is not completly clean, but in fact there is a compromise between having the sensor damaged or have one or two dust spots...
If you want to know more about the process, I will be happy to answer!
Check your sensor for dust!
a - Create a new image in Photoshop or any other application and fill it with white
b - Set your camera to Aperture Priority, ISO100, and aperture to it's minimum f/22 - f/45
c - Set lens focus to Manual, and focus to closest possible
d - Shoot in raw or if in jpeg, turn off special image processing functions
e - Zoom in until the photoshop image fills your camera focusing screen
f - Shoot camera facing the white image on your monitor, and during this exposure, move your camera back and fourth being careful to not to point the lens outside of your white image. You can also zoom in in the image...
g - Process your image, adjust contrast, brightness, clarity, whatever, so that you get a clear view of the dirt spots!
h - Now you can go through the cleaning process - remember that what shows on the bottom of the image will be towards the top of the camera sensor...
i - Repeat the process from a to g and if you are happy with the result, then you are done; otherwise, repeat again... this time I had to make three swab cleanings. It is preferable to clean gently several times than applying to much force.
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Technical Info:
Camera: Canon EOS 40D
Lens: EF-S15-85mm f/3.5-5.6 IS USM
Focal Length: 40 mm
Sensitivity: ISO 100
Exposure: 0,3 sec at f/22
Exposure bias: 0 EV
Exposure Program: Aperture priority
Metering Mode: Pattern
Flash: no flash
GPS
Coordinates:
Altitude:
©Henrique Silva, all rights reserved - no reproduction without prior permission
My latest acquisition. Very nice compact camera. Large, bright viewfinder.
The Agfa Optima sensor electronic was identical to the Agfa Optima 535 Sensor electronic and — like the Agfa Optima sensor Flash - produced in Portugal.
Manufactured in 1982.
Lens: Agfa Solitar 40mm / 1:2.8
Shutter: 1/30 sec. to 1/500
Aperture range: 2.8 to 22
Dimensions: 104 × 70 × 56 mm
Weight: 265 g
Batteries: 3 x alkaline / silver oxide 625G
Information retrieved from this website (in German), which also features beautiful photos of all the 1970s Agfa Optima line.
Another good read (in English) is the Agfa Optima 1535 page on Alfred's Camera Page.
Los 13699 fotogramas restantes se pueden ver acá:
Y de yapa, un bellísimo collage inspirado en esos fotogramas:
Today i took the opportunity to use a Sony NEX-7 [Crop-Sensor] with a Sony-Zeiss Full-Frame 35mm 1.4f lens.
I have recently read that using a full-frame lens with a crop sensor may not produce better results than using a lens designed from a crop-sensor camera and in fact the images will be less sharp.
When starting out, many photographers choose to go with a crop body and invest in full frame lenses. This is usually recommended as a good approach as you can keep your lenses and swap out your body for something newer down the road, eventually leading to that high quality full frame sensor that you always wanted. However some experts, especially Tony Northrup, claim that starting out with the full frame lens and crop bodies does not provide you with the sharp images.
In my case I had a top end full frame camera [Canon 1DSIII] with a set of very expensive glass and I was not at all happy as the combination was way too heavy and totally unsuitable for street photography. About five years ago I decided that I needed a better solution and after using a Sony NEX-5 for about a year I decided to purchase a NEX-7 and switch from DSLR to Mirrorless [at the time that was a big gamble]. In theory it would be possible to use my Canon lenses with the NEX-7 but in reality it was not a workable solution. The NEX-7 featured a crop-sensor so I purchased a set of suitable Sony lenses and they were not expensive.
My reason for getting the NEX-7 and associated lenses was greatly reduced weight coupled with the fact that my equipment did not attract unwelcome attention.
The NEX-7 performed way beyond my expectations and I was really pleased and then towards the end of last year because the camera was giving problems at random I threw all logic out the window and took an ever bigger gamble by purchasing a Sony A7RMkII full frame mirrorless camera which is larger and heavier than the NEX-7.
To be honest, there is no comparison between the two cameras, the A7R is very much superior and while it is heavier it is actually easier to use. Also the Canon lenses actually work with the A7R but using the necessary adaptor was a pain and added weight. However the Canon lenses showed what the A7RMkII could do so I decided that maybe I should consider getting some native Sony FE prime lenses and then I discovered that they all were expensive and heavy [ unless I got manual focus lens such as the Loxia ]. Anyway I ended up with a set of primes [and no cash] but I now have serious weight issue especially when I travel.
I was planning to use the NEX-7 as a backup or when I travel but the crop-lenses are not very good so it would make no sense to leave my full-frame lenses behind so a possible solution would to bring along one of the FE primes [35mm 1.4f] but then I came across discussions online claiming that FE lenses underperform when used with a crop-sensor. Of course there is another issue in that the NEX-7 is at the end of its life and needs to be replaced by something like the A6300 but as I already said I have no spare cash.
I have had some dust stuck on my sensor since getting my A7III and sadly the rocket blower couldn't remove it. I usually pay to get my sensor cleaned but decided to give cleaning it myself a try and I'm glad I did.
Getting the best out of Sigma Foveon X3 sensor. Amazing details, colours and sharpness. Foveon X3 sensor is totally a different class.
He sacado "de paseo" la cámara ya casi de vintage Samsung EX1.
Los colores son impresionante porque tiene sensor CCD
After great demand and lots of encouragement from friend photographers, the result of this very work intensive project is finally available. Please check your respective amazon online store.
The paperback version is recommended over the kindle version
Content:
This book is unique, in that it focuses on greatly improving photography skills, both for amateurs and professionals, by understanding the image sensor & camera operation and the impact of parameters changes on image quality.
Are you one of those photographers who continuously fights excessive image noise when shooting birds-in-flight, a photographer who would like to understand why certain camera and lens settings do a great job and others don’t, or, are you a photographer who fails in creating top quality images, independent of the circumstances? Then stop looking, because you have found your comprehensively written expert guide, created by image sensor specialist George F. Vittman, PhD, who has worked with world-renowned specialists in the field since the mid-1980ies, and who is also an outstanding and award-winning photographer.
Without going into too much technical detail, this book introduces the basic image sensor operation, and it devotes a large fraction to the study of visible image noise. What is noise caused by, what is its dependence on the 3 camera exposure parameters, shutter time, lens aperture and ISO-value, how does post-processing affect noise, and most importantly, how can the image noise be minimized under different circumstances. Besides image noise, this book also reveals little known secrets regarding auto-focus, camera operation and optics, and it gives image sensor based recommendations for a camera choice in the different fields of photography.
Hatte ich folgendes nicht schon an anderer Stelle geschrieben?
1. Beim Filmtransport verschwindet der belichtete Film hinter einer Klappe, so ist er bei versehentlichem Öffnen geschützt.
2. Man spult den Film mit dem Schnellschalthebel zurück, nachdem man vorher einen Umschaltknopf betätigt hat!
3. Die Auslösung über den roten Sensor-Punkt ist wirklich sehr sanft und erschütterungsfrei.
Richtig! Diese drei exklusiven Merkmale der Selectronic Sensor findet man später wieder in den genial designten Optima-sensor-electronic-Modellen.
Der äußerliche Unterschied fällt natürlich sofort ins Auge. Die Selectronic sensor hatte die recht konventionelle, für die damalige Zeit aber moderne sachliche Form der Optima 500 fortgesetzt. Ein großer Erfolg war die die Selectronic nicht, aber das Innenleben hatte sich so bewährt, dass es mit kleinen Abwandlungen für die Optima Sensor electronic übernommen wurde.
Während aber die neuen Optimas einen voll programmierten Paratronic-Verschluss besaßen (man hatte keinen Einfluss auf Belichtungszeit und Blende), war die Selectronic sensor ein Zeitautomat: Die Blende wird vorgewählt, die Zeit dazu wird von der Kamera errechnet und eingestellt. Beide Werte sieht man im Sucher. Dieses System gefällt mir viel besser.
Es gab noch die Selectronic "S", die mit dem Vierlinser Solinar statt mit dem Dreilinser Apotar ausgerüstet war und außerdem einen Messsucher besaß.
Die Selectronic kostete 1971 349,- DM, die Selectronic S 449,- DM.
"Magic Wire" is so called because of detecting proximity to antenna.
THE MAGIC WIRE
As shown in the diagram, the input tube is a type 6R7 duo-diode triode. The triode section forms the oscillator, in conjunction with the coil L1 which is center-tapped to the cathode. When the triode section is oscillating, the r.f. voltage developed from cathode to ground is impressed on the diode section, causing current to flow through R2 and making the diode plates negative with respect to ground. The control grid of the 25L6 power tube is connected to the diode plates of the 6R7 and consequently a negative bias is placed on the grid which reduces its plate current to a very low value. As soon as the triode ceases to oscillate, there is no longer any r.f. voltage applied to the diodes, the voltage drops and the 25L6 draws high plate current, causing the relay to operate.
It will be noted that no rectifier tube or filler circuit is required in this design, yet the instrument functions on either a.c. or d.c. On a.c., the 6R7 oscillations and the 25L6 draws plate current only on the positive half-cycles. This principle effects a considerable saving in construction cost and in the size of the instrument.
After the parts required have been obtained, the first step in building the unit is to make the chassis, which consists simply of a piece of 16-gauge aluminum or steel bent and drilled in accordance with the plan shown. The front panel, which is included with the standard 6 by 6 cabinet, is drilled and a hole and grommet are placed in the rear panel. The oscillator coil is made by winding 100 turns of No.28 d.c.c. wire on a one-inch bakelite tube 3-1/4 inches long. A tap is brought out at the center of the winding. When the winding has been completed, the entire coil is dipped in a hot half-and-half mixture of beeswax and paraffin to keep the winding in place and exclude moisture. The sensitivity of the outfit is largely dependent upon the efficiency of the coil, so it should be carefully made. C1 is mounted on a small piece of 1/8-inch bakelite, because it must be insulated from the panel.
Wire the chassis first, starting with the heater circuits. Do not connect in the power cord until all wiring has been completed. The shield of the 25L6 is connected to its cathode, the shield of the 6E7 to the heater terminal which goes directly to the line. When all the main wiring has been completed, bring the power cord through the rear panel hole, and solder the three terminals to the terminal strip. The antenna wire is brought in through a rubber-grommeted hole in the top of the cabinet and connected to the stator or plate terminal of C1. A knot in the wire will relieve any strain on this connection. Stranded wire is preferred for the antenna.
The capacitances of C1 and C2 are largely dependent upon the length of antenna wire desired. If only 4 or 5 feet are required, C2 may be omitted. On the other hand, if the wire exceeds 15 feet, C2 will have to be larger than the value given. If the capacitance of C1 were made large (say 150 mmf. or more), C2 could of course be omitted but then the adjustment would become too critical.
The relay employed is a 3,000-ohm plug-in type of standard manufacture. It is a double-pole model and will handle a non-inductive load of 100 watts. It is somewhat more sensitive than is required and any other good relay of 1,000 ohms or more resistance should be suitable. The capacitor, C4, is shunted across the relay coil to prevent chattering. It may be advisable, in some cases, to put a 0.1 mf. paper capacitor across the relay contacts to stop sparking on heavy loads. It is better practice, however, to use a separate power relay when operating any but light loads.
In operation, the antenna wire is strung out well away from grounded metal objects and a 110-volt lamp is plugged into the outlet on the panel. When the tubes have heated, the lamp should light when the antenna wire is touched. If it lights without touching the wire, C2 should be screwed down until the lamp goes out. These adjustments should be made with C1 about one-half mashed. The panel may then screwed in on the cabinet and final adjustment made. This is done by gradually adjusting the vernier knob of the dial until the light remains lit when adjusting but goes out when the hand is removed from the dial. This may be carried to a point where the light will flash as soon as one approaches within 3 feet of the wire or instrument. It is better not to aim for such sensitivity, though, since it will vary somewhat with line voltage. A good, practical and stable point is about six to fifteen minutes or so for the instrument to acquire a stable point of operation owing to its sensitivity.
PARTS REQUIRED
C1 - Midget variable capacitor, 60 mmf. (see text)
C2 - Trimmer capacitor, 35 mmf. or more (see text)
C3 - Tubular paper capacitor, 0.05 mf. or more, 200 v.
C4 - Electrolytic capacitor, 10 mf., 100 V.
R1 - Carbon resistor, 5 meg, 1 watt
R2 - Carbon resistor, 1 meg., 1 watt
R4 - Wire-wound resistor, 5,000 ohms, 10 watts
R5 - Wire-wound resistor, 10,000 ohms, 10 watts
1 -- Steel cabinet 6x6x6 inches, front & back panels removable
1 -- Piece 16-gauge aluminum, for chassis 5-1/2 x 7-3/4 inches
1 -- Piece bakelite tubing, 1 inch diameter., 3-1/2 inches long
1 -- Piece bakelite, 1'1/2 x 1-1/2, 1/8 inch thick for C1
2 -- Octal wafer sockets, 1-1/2 inches center for mounting holes
1 -- 5-prong wafer socket, 1-1/2 inches center for mounting holes
1 -- Relay, Utah type RAC-110, 3,000 ohm
1 -- 6R7 metal tube
1 -- 25L6 metal tube
1 -- Kurz-Kasch vernier dial, small
1 -- Resistor line cord, 280 ohms (R3)
1 -- Single outlet receptacle
Miscellaneous screws, nuts, mounting bracket, and grommets.
- James P Hughes
Agfa Optima 200 Sensor (second version).
German viewfinder camera produced c.1969.
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The Meter Unit removed and lying upside-down.
There is a Green Mask (see green arrow) in a Slide and a Red Mask (see red arrow) moving with the Meter Needle.
These are used for the OK Exposure and Underexposure signals in the Viewfinder.
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WARNING :
This image is intended as a reference for the more experienced camera service man. If you have no experience in camera repair please do yourself a favor and send your camera to a professional service shop. It would be a pity to lose a vintage camera in a failed repair attempt !
'HARLEY DAVIDSON WORLD CHESTERFIELD' - TAKEN ON A PANASONIC LUMIX DMC-FX12 COMPACT CCD SENSOR CAMERA. - AUGUST 2024
be sure to view the comparison chart on Full Screen
OK. At first glimpse, this comparison might sound unfair. The D300, featuring a 12 MP sensor was released in 2007, while the D7100, featuring a 24 MP sensor was released almost 6 years later in 2013. Six years. That is a long time in the digital world.
PREFACE
But let's start from the beginning. I am, or at least was most of the time very happy with my D300 for more than 5 years now. The camera travelled from the darkest basements to far asian cities and islands. And I never considered it an option to give away my cam as it never failed, never let me in the dark, never disappointed me. After having the D40 for a year before going to the D300 I was learning to appreciate the straight and clean layout of the control elements on the D300. It is truly straightforward. Shooting modes (P,M,S,A), ISO, WB, Exposure, Aperture and many more important settings can be very easily accessed without ever going into the menu. Hold the specific settings button while clicking the exposure dial thru the option value range. Release the button and it is set. Thats it. This straight UX approach was another strong reason I was soo happy with that camera. Also with the quality of the camera, especially its built quality – full metal (magnesium alloy) body - and the haptic feeling I was always more than satisfied over those years. For the image quality I was also quite pleased. Except, that sometimes I felt a bit more resolution for cropping could have been in those situations where you once again had to hurry snapping a shot without fine adjusting of the frame. On other occasions I was feeling like wanting more High ISO with less noise to shoot in the dark by hand. But as both of those requests seemed like only having one answer, namely going to full-frame (FX-Format) I dismissed the idea of upgrading . I was more than often on a holiday in a situation were I was tired to carry around my bulky and heavy bag. Going to full frame would not have meant to spend much more money on lenses but also to carry around an even bulkier and more heavier bag than the one I am sick of right now. So on holiday you will see me often just with the camera hanging from my shoulder, having the 35mm f/1.8 on and thats it. I highly appreciate the ability to move virtuously. Without moving, there is not much different scenes you are going to take in a day. And if you don't have a car with you or someone who is happy to carry your equipment (tripod, bag, umbrellas … what else do you need?) you really don’t feel like moving that much while taking all that material with you.
I remember also one of my close friends wanting me to convert to Canon, but this was also never an option for me. Not only having to switch a whole system of lenses, flashes and accessories, but I was and I am appreciating the nature of Nikon products in all ways a lot. Canon cameras often come out with newer features (Full-Frame-Sensors, Video, ...) or higher image quality more soon than Nikon ones. But to me they never felt that solid holding them in my hands as the Nikon cameras. I had Canon Cameras in my hand which cost more than double of the D300, but they always feel like cheap plastic to me. They never feel that solid as I would spend that much money on them. I also have some recent models of premium cars in my mind where manufacturers really failed in interior materials for +100k USD cars. I never would going to buy those – even I had the money - as they have cheap plastic buttons on the command panel, despite of being highly awarded by the so called independent specialized press.
COMMON FEATURES
OK. Lets first take a look, not at the differences of those both cameras. Let's take a look of what they have in common. Both are Nikon F-Mount DSLRs with a DX-Sensor (crop factor 1.3x). Both have the four basic important shooting modes – P, M, S, A. Both have an HDMI output on the left and a LCD on top. And the D7100 has at least a body which is partially made of magnesium alloy. Both have a 100 % viewfinder (0.94x). Both can shoot 14-bit NEF's, and both are featuring a 51-point AF sensor and an AF-motor, so non AF-S lenses will have AF function on both cams as well. Both can be equipped with a battery grip, and if you take a look at the menus you'll also find both cameras having extensive settings options which is almost the same huge feature list once more. And interestingly the D300s (the video enabled succeeder of the D300) is available at almost the same price right now as the D7100 is.
VIDEO
Let's just assume for a second that the only feature I am missing on my D300 is the video. Especially on holiday there is always something funny happening you want to take a video of, but often that is not in ideal light conditions. Smartphones just miss up taking videos in dim light and they don't have any optical zoom. So for taking just a little bit serious video it might be a good feature to have on the camera. But for buying a new camera with new money the step from to the D300s is just not far enough for me. It does not feature 1080p or 30fps video recording. And compared to the D300 there is just not more in the box finally than the video.
When spending money on a new camera you want to have more than just one feature. I never thought before that I am going to leave this super straight and solid prosumer Nikon line – not in favour for a less-pro product line. But as it turns out, the D7100 has much more image detail and quality offering in a package which is even lighter and more easy to carry than my old D300 and it is giving me 1080p video, while spending even a little less than for the D300s without missing all those detailed menu settings and major features. That's it. Said like this, it sounds very simple.
DIFFERENCES
Finally, I want to point out, which features you might be missing in case you are going for that same “upgrade” as me, or which features you might gain.
D300 havs, D7100 don't havs - flash sync plug (the old round one) - round 10 pin cable socket for remote cable shutter release and the older style GPS modules - display cover (protects your display from scratches) - straightforward controls - CF card slot (big cards, easy to grab, but be careful with the pins) - manual pop up flash (it never fires unless you release it first, no matter which program – that makes you look more smart than those people who are taking photos in the night of far objects (like skylines) or shooting thru windows with accidently firing the flash ;) - more solid body - bigger top LCD - bigger body more easy to grab (but also more heavy) - high shooting rate of up to 6/8 shots per second (8 only with battery grip or sw tweak***) - big buffer space (will enable you continues shooting of up to 18 RAWs (12-bit) at 6 FPS with fast cards) - LCD screen features more realistic tones and colors - in camera preview is of higher quality
D7100 havs, D300 don't havs - 24 MP sensor - Video recording - SD cards (hell are these small!) - DUAL SD card slots (second one can be set to JPG, backup or overflow) - IR sensor (for triggering the shutter) - many shooting scene modes (your friends who are not into photography might be able to take photos as well) - flash pop up is controlled by software now (to disable the flash, be sure to choose the right settings first) - shooting rate at 6 shots per second also for 14-bit NEFs (3 on the D300), but as of the - limited buffer space the burst rate drops dramatically (under 3 fps depending on your card) after 5 or 6 takes. - support for newer style GPS receivers and the Wifi-Adapter - LCD screen features adjustable backlight - HDMI-C socket (HDMI-A-Cables need an adapter)
That is not a comprehensive list, but the biggest differences I have encountered so far.
LOW PASS FILTER
Finally one last stop at the so called “low-pass-filter”. I have read on many sources on the web that there is “no significant difference” in picture detail by removing the low-pass-filter. I can confirm now while comparing both cameras that this is not true. The D7100 100% crops show definitely higher sharpness on the pixel level than the shots from my D300. Sure, that effect can only be observed while having a lens which is able to deliver that high detail. Just look at the photos I took here. Despite that DX prime lens' super low price tag, its able to deliver this. And there are probably more pricy prime lenses available which can even surpass this performance.
DISPLAY
The back display of both cams are different, but I cannot see any benefit in case of the D7100 LCDs in having another W-subpixel. If you place the cameras side by side you will easily notice that the colors and tones on the display of the D300 are much more natural. The D7100 has an adjustable backlight now and a little bit more true black. That is both a plus. But the photos on the D7100 seem oversharped on playback. But luckily this effects can only be observed on the screen. The photos itself on your memory card are of highest quality on both cams.
Image playback on the D7100 over HDMI shows black bars on left and right side - even if you zoom in into the photo - this is something nobody likes to see, especially as the D300 was able to do that better back then in 2007 already. But despite Nikon knowing from customer complains about this problem they never went to fix it and so this sticks out as a deliberate attempt to cancel this as a pro-camera and keep a distance to the higher priced 3-digit and one-digit product line.
VERDICT
As for the overall picture quality there is not much big difference between both cams. They perform almost equal in terms of dynamic range and white balance. But when you have the right lens mounted, the D7100 is the clear winner in resolution and detail. Also in Low-Light situations the D7100 tends to preserve more details than the D300.
I read on many sites on the web that people recommend the D300(s) as a more solid working body for professional photographers who take their 3000 images a week, but finally I believe that professional photographers can afford more recent and more pricey equipment as the D4 for example. So we are really not talking about professional photography here I guess.
I really liked the super solid body and the straightforward controls on the D300. But at the same time I don't want to miss that resolution and detail plus on the D7100 anymore. If you are used to the controls on any prosumer Nikon it might need a little time to get used to the layout of the controls on the D7100, but that is nothing to worry about if you have that time. Also the smaller image buffer on the D7100 might be something to consider, as the burst rate just drops much more early than on the D300. As a fashion show photographer this drop in burst rate, is unacceptable. The D300 image buffer allowed taking 3 times the number of RAW pictures slowing down, as long as you agree on the fact that 12 bit raw is enough and you wont need 14 bit.
Finally, I believe, that if you don't care about using CF or SD cards, and if you don't care about having a camera body fully made of metal alloy or half synthetics, the D7100 will give you much more than just more image detail. It will give you a more advanced focussing system, a lighter body, a second memory card slot and of course Video. And all that for a very decent price tag. So for me it is really an option while not going to FX (more weight, more pricey lenses) but still having major image detail improvement and a few relevant features.
And as my friend Ivo says. It is a new toy to play with as well for sure. :)
Olympus E-500 ( KODAK CCD sensor ) + Olympus Zuiko Digital ED 50mm f/2.0 Macro
OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA
Pretty Headshots! Before the swimsuit/bikini shoot started, we caught some headshots! Swimsuit photos up next! Nikon D800 Photos Pretty Brunette Swimsuit Bikini Model Goddess Modeling Gold 45 Revolver Bikini! Gorgeous Brown Eyes!
New 500px site!
500px.com/johnnyrangermccoyphotography
Follow me on facebook!
facebook.com/45surfHerosJourneyMythology (the Hero's Journey Mythology Goddesses!)
Nikon D800 Photos Pretty Brunette Swimsuit Bikini Model Goddess Moldeing Gold 45 Revolver Bikini! Gorgeous Brown Eyes! The classic black bikini with the gold gun!
Subscribe to my video channels for epic bikini swimsuit model goddess videos shot at the same time as stills!
New epic video of the day's bikini swimsuit model shoot:
Nikon D800 photography of Pretty Brunette Swimsuit Bikini Model Goddess @ the 45SURF Summer Beach House! Gorgeous Brown Eyes! I'm thiking about adding a deck and a pool to the beach house / surf shack se cave! You'll have to visit!
Photos shot with the AMAZING Nikon D800 E and Nikon 70-200mm f/2.8G ED VR II AF-S Nikkor Zoom Lens and the B W 77mm XS-Pro Kaesemann Circular Polarizer with Multi-Resistant Nano Coating. Classic California Brunette Beach Babe! Beautiful Swimsuit Bikini Model Goddess with Pretty Blue Eyes and wavy sandy-brownhair!
Shot in both RAW & JPEG, but all these photos are RAWs finished in Lightroom 5 ! :)
Modeling the classic 45surf t-shirts and the Gold 45 Revolver Gold'N'Virtue Bikini on a sunny Malibu summer afternoon--my favorite for shooting on the beautiful socal beach!
Shot with the new Nikon D800E and Nikon 70-200mm f/2.8G ED VR II AF-S Nikkor Zoom Lens.
Captured in both RAW and JPEG.
Modeling the black & gold "Gold 45 Revolver" Gold'N'Virtue swimsuits with the main equation to Moving Dimensions Theory on the swimsuits: dx4/dt=ic. Yes I have a Ph.D. in physics! :) You can read more about my research and Hero's Journey Physics here:
herosjourneyphysics.wordpress.com/ MDT PROOF#2: Einstein (1912 Man. on Rel.) and Minkowski wrote x4=ict. Ergo dx4/dt=ic--the foundational equation of all time and motion which is on all the shirts and swimsuits. Every photon that hits my Nikon D800e's sensor does it by surfing the fourth expanding dimension, which is moving at c relative to the three spatial dimensions, or dx4/dt=ic!
May the Hero's Journey Mythology Goddess inspire you (as they have inspired me!) along your own artistic journey! Love, love, love the 70-200mm F/2.8 Lens! :)
All the Best on Your Epic Hero's Journey from Johnny Ranger McCoy!
May the classic California HJM Goddesses guide, inspire, and exalt ye along yer heroic artistic journey!
All the Best on Your Epic Hero's Journey from Johnny Ranger McCoy!
And for those who always ask, I shoot in RAW! Always! :)
A Gold 45 Goddess exalts the archetypal form of Athena--the Greek Goddess of wisdom, warfare, strategy, heroic endeavour, handicrafts and reason. A Gold 45 Goddess embodies 45SURF's motto "Virtus, Honoris, et Actio Pro Veritas, Amor, et Bellus, (Strength, Honor, and Action for Truth, Love, and Beauty," and she stands ready to inspire and guide you along your epic, heroic journey into art and mythology. It is Athena who descends to call Telemachus to Adventure in the first book of Homer's Odyssey--to man up, find news of his true father Odysseus, and rid his home of the false suitors, and too, it is Athena who descends in the first book of Homer's Iliad, to calm the Rage of Achilles who is about to draw his sword so as to slay his commander who just seized Achilles' prize, thusly robbing Achilles of his Honor--the higher prize Achilles fought for. And now Athena descends once again, assuming the form of a Gold 45 Goddess, to inspire you along your epic journey of heroic endeavour.
Placemeter uses computer vision algorithms extract movement data in real time. The Kaiser Permanente Center for Total Health is using the Placemeter sensor in conjunction with our already installed Eco-Counter to measure pedestrians on the Metropolitan Branch Trail, 2nd Street, NE, Washington, DC USA
The Flickr Lounge-Its a Bargain
I bought this washer over 10 years ago and it is still working perfectly! It wasn't super expensive since I got it in New Mexico where the prices are much lower than in New York state. It works much like a front-loading model in that it has no agitator and it also has a water sensor so I never uses more water than it needs.
I was invited to spend two days at Europe’s most comprehensive IoT Event. This leading forum focused on case studies that show today’s Industry and Enterprises leveraging IoT technologies to transform their business through creating value and efficiencies.
The Internet of things (stylised Internet of Things or IoT) is the internetworking of physical devices, vehicles (also referred to as "connected devices" and "smart devices"), buildings and other items—embedded with electronics, software, sensors, actuators, and network connectivity that enable these objects to collect and exchange data.
"Things," in the IoT sense, can refer to a wide variety of devices such as heart monitoring implants, biochip transponders on farm animals, electric clams in coastal waters,[16] automobiles with built-in sensors, DNA analysis devices for environmental/food/pathogen monitoring or field operation devices that assist firefighters in search and rescue operations.[18] Legal scholars suggest to look at "Things" as an "inextricable mixture of hardware, software, data and service". These devices collect useful data with the help of various existing technologies and then autonomously flow the data between other devices. Current market examples include home automation (also known as smart home devices) such as the control and automation of lighting, heating (like smart thermostat), ventilation, air conditioning (HVAC) systems, and appliances such as washer/dryers, robotic vacuums, air purifiers, ovens or refrigerators/freezers that use Wi-Fi for remote monitoring.
Camera introduced in 1971 ; made in Germany . For the 126 cassette. Magicube flash socket .Of the 3 copies that I have , I noticed a difference in the place of the eye for the carrying strap , and a difference in text indicating the film in the compartment .
Snapped a few shots with the EPL-5 today, here's one of my broken sensor.. No clue as to how it happened. Read a similar story on mu-43.com a few months back, apparently it was covered under warranty. We shall see!
The dirt is actually just some spit or something from the numerous people interested at the shop I got the camera at. They of course haven't seen this happen yet.
M240 / 50 Summilux
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Jim
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This photo shows the dust and oil spots on the sensor of a Nikon D600. The debris is most apparent in the upper left corner.
f/2.8│ISO 160│1/180sec│Manual Focus│Manual Exposure│CCD Sensor│LR4
LEICA M9-P & LEICA SUMMARIT-M 35 f/2.5 ASPH.
Manufactured by Agfa Kamerawerk AG, Munich, West Germany
Model: c.1970, (all models of Silette produced between 1953-1974)
Agfa logo on the front of the camera: black relief
35 mm film Viewfinder camera
Lens:Agfa Color - Agnar 45mm f/2.8
Aperture: f/2.8 -f /22 , stepless allowing for easy adjustment with the TTL meter
setting: ring and scale on the back of the lens
Focusing: front ring manual focus, w/ DOF scale
Focus range: 1-5m +inf.
Shutter: Parator speeds: 30, 60, 125, 300 +B, extremely quiet
setting : ring and scale on the lens
Shutter release: Red "Sensor" shutter release button,
very smooth and sensitive so no camera shake
Cable release socket: on the back of the top plate
Exposure meter: TTL (coupled to the lens) Selenium Optima 200 Sensor (working !.)
Exposure setting: via 1- the small needle window on the top plate, 2- the indicator in the viewfinder, set the speed and turn the aperture ring
Film speed range: ASA 25-400 (DIN 15-27), setting knob and scales on the lens
View finder: bright frame finder,
Cocking lever: also winds the film, short stroke, on the left of the bottom plate
Frame counter: advance type, manual reset by a button behind the counter window, on the bottom plate
Re-wind release and re-winding: the black lever marked R and arrow on the right lower side of the lens releases and engages the reversing gear
thus the cocking and winding lever is the re-wind lever now
Flash PC socket: none, you can use a flash sync. cord with an Agfa flash adapter
Hot-shoe: flash sync. bulbs 1/30, electronic all speeds
Self-timer: none
Back cover: hinged, opens by a latch on the right side of the camera
Film loading: special easy quick loading system
Body: metal
Tripod socket: 1/4''
serial no. LW 6837 BC
The Silette series' rangefinder models were called Super Silette. There was also an interchangeable lens rangefinder model called the Ambi Silette.
Agfa Optima Sensor compact 35mm camera
Specifications:-
Type: 35mm compact camera
Size: 104 mm x 68 mm x 54 mm (W x H x D)
Image Format: 24 x 36 mm (W x H)
Lens: Agfa Solitar, 40 mm f/2.8
Diaphragm: Automatic f/2.8 to f/22
Focusing: Manual scale pictograms on top of the focus ring/ meter/feet scale on bottom, focusing 3ft/1.09m - infinity
Shutter Speeds: 1/500 second - 15 seconds
Viewfinder: Large direct finder with parallax marks for near focus
Film Loading: Manual
Film Transport: Manual single stroke lever, also used to rewind film when the 'R' button is depressed and turned
Film Speeds: 25 ASA/15 DIN to 500 ASA/28 DIN, selected on a ring around the lens
Flash Contact: Hot shoe, aperture selected manually with flash
Cable Release Socket: On left hand side of the camera body
Tripod Socket: 1/4 in. on right hand side which doubles as camera strap attachment
Battery: 3 V625U batteries, located by opening the camera back
One of my Fuji X-Pro1 bodies is broken. It will power up, take a few shots, and then shut down. When I try to turn it on, it sometimes gives a message that says to turn the camera off and try turning it on again. I have also noticed a large, diffuse, white defect in the upper right quadrant of the sensor.
I later concluded that I had damaged my sensor while shooting a solar eclipse. Rather than repairing the camera, I decided to replace it with a Fuji X-Pro2.
The camera wasn't switching on which I cured by bending these 2 contacts closer.
The battery shows as powered up but you can't do anything until these make contact.
The sliding door wasn't quite making them touch.
The 2 long screws fit the back right top and bottom as you look at it if you take the case off.
The loose part is the film counter sensor and is glued weakly in place normally.
Now i've found out the bottom film wind sprocket is totally jammed and the camera chews up film :-( and makes a horrifying grating sound.
Until the film is loaded and recognised It still doesn't shoot.
I did get it cheap at a charity shop so it's no great financial loss if it doesn't work.