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This is a tower located at the summit of Mt. Washington and it has many sensors and tech for the weather observatory.
Here's a visual I've drawn up ..... A comparison of two very popular camera sensors in a real world scenario with actual data.
The Kodak KAF8300 (in such camera's as the QSI683, Moravian G2-8300 and Atik 383L)
The Sony ICX814 (QSI690, Atik 490, Atik One 9.0 and SX Trius-814)
I hope that you find this a useful size comparison if you are torn between the two or are unclear as to the effect of sensor size on a target.
Just for your interest... these two images were taken at 330mm focal length.
Agfa Optima 1535 Sensor • Paratronic Solitar 1:2.8/40
Agfaphoto Vista 400 film in Tetenal Colortec C-41
Scanned with Plustek OpticFilm 120 at 2400dpi with Silverfast AI Studio 9
Route des Crêtes • Vosges • Haut-Rhin • Alsace • France
Twins brought in to warm up by the owner of the farm we live on. He hand carried them from the pasture so they wouldn't freeze to death before they got going. Check out the eye lashes on that girl 😎
Canon EOS Rebel T2I, Canon EF-S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 IS
If you want a nice reasonably priced camera I'd recommend this set up. It's on loan to me from my step son. It shoots 1080 video too. It's about half the weight of my 40d, not quite as snappy, but it has an 18MP sensor and takes an sd card.
Taken from North Oxfordshire with a Canon 1100D with Canon 10-18mm wide angle lens.
This image is made from 6 overlapping panes, with each pane was a stack of 5 x 25 seconds at ISO-1600 + 15 darks. Camera was a Canon 1100D with Canon 10-18mm lens. I stacked all 6 sets of 5 using Sequator, which allows you to freeze the foreground. I then stitched them in Microsoft ICE, with processing in Lightroom, Photoshop CS2 and Fast Stone Image Viewer. Taken from Oxfordshire, UK. The curved horizon is not an artefact - our village is in a natural bowl and I was standing at one of the lowest points.
I accidentally shot everything in jpeg so I wasn't expecting much from the stacking process. I also slightly messed up one of the overlaps and I need to clean my sensor! But that night I got my clearest Milky Way shots so far this year.
Not often I upload a shot on the same day it was taken so this is a rare one. The paint is dry but the camera sensor is wet...We had a lot of chores this morning by car and when we were out I decided to drift over to a business at Middle Park industrial estate (think Brisbane's western suburbs) in order to catch a freshly painted mural by Drapl and Zookeeper.
Well, we found this on the side of the business but it was not the one we had driven kilometres out of our way to see. As usual, Murphy's law was running true to form as it had already been this morning and it turns out that the mural we sought is on this business's new headquarters, the address of which is so highly regarded that ASIO would be proud of them. So in the end, despite teasing all sorts of details from websites of builder, business and google maps and earth (which is five years out of date so useless with new estates) we have only established the suburb and it ain't this one.
There are many posts of videos on facebook documenting the construction of the new building and the painting of the new mural. But we need an operation by Wikileaks to reveal the new address.
Well anyway, this was one mural that we haven't seen listed, obviously by Drapl and Sofles so it is a catch albeit unexpected and the new one remains elusive. For these sleuths, the game is afoot. Apparently all will be revealed at the end of this month!
BTW, for all those frustrated mural hunters out there, this is at 32 Spine Street, Middle Park, looking up the street. So there....I have spilled the beans on that one.
This is an other picture of our new campaign for next summer.
I took it last week at the upper terrace which is on the top of our office in Varanasi (Benaras).
Anand who is our favourite model is holding a cushion in white linen with an embroidery made of flowers and swirls and matching with the throw in the background.
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Chernivtsi (Tschernowitz), Ukraine.
Viewfinder camera: AGFA Optima 1035 Sensor
Lens: Agfa Solitar S 40mm f/2.8
Film: Kodak BW400CN (C-41 process) expired
Filter: Rodenstock Yellow medium (8)
Film was processed and scanned by "Kodak Dukat" Studio Lab. in Chernivtsi. I am happy with the results.
To see the pictures taken with this camera click here.
Thank you for your comments and Fav's.
A very popular camera by Agfa from the late 70s and a little marvel of industrial design. The "Optima Sensor" name had been used by Agfa for a series of simple electronic consumer cameras since the late 60s denoting the presence of a big, red, feather-touch shutter button (sensor) that adorned the top of the camera and was considered very hi-tech at the time.
This last series of the Agfa Optimas were marketed during the late 70s and production continued well into the 80's being hugely successful in the european market. At least 5 different models exist, including a rangefinder (Agfa Optima 1535) and one equipped with an electronic flash, aptly named "Agfa Optima Flash". The best online source of information regarding these cameras can be found here:
www.edition-oldenburg.de/agfa_optima.html
The Optima 1035 pictured here sits second from the top of the line-up feature-wise. It is a zone-focus camera with a fully automatic exposure system based on the Agfa Paratronic electronic shutter. Despite its introduction at a time when plastic was already being used extensively in camera manufacture, the littke Agfa is mostly made of metal with a very durable black coating. Some parts are made of plastic (like the film advance lever or the focusing ring) but the overall feel is that of a solid, durable camera.
The most prominent feature of the camera is the HUGE and extremely bright viewfinder which is a small revelation for first-time users. It is very close in size and brightness to the viewfinders found in premium rangefinders and makes using the camera a real joy. In the 1035 the VF features three distance symbols and a red needle that moves between them according to the chosen focus distance, the minimum being 0.9m. The frame line is illuminated and there are parallax correction marks for close subjects.
Another unique feature of the Optima is the lack of a rewind crank. With the help of (rather flimsy) toggle switch on the top plate, the film advance lever doubles as a rewind crank, a clever design that made the installation of such a bright finder on such a small camera possible.
Upon opening the film door, another clever feature makes its apperance: When loading the camera, the film is passed under a small shield on the winding side which protects film that has already been exposed from accidental opening of the film door.
The lens is a fast f2.8, 40mm four-element Solitar-S ("S" denoting multi-coating) which is quite sharp under good lighting conditions with good contrast and resistance to flare.
Shutter speeds go up to 1/1000s and in low light the Paratronic can stay open for at least one full second. The high top shutter speed combined with the minimum diaphragm opening of f22 ensure proper exposure of fast film even under the brightest conditions. The shutter is completely battery-dependent, it doesn't open at all if batteries are not installed. The feather-touch shutter release ensures minimum shake when taking the shot, reducing the chance of a blurry shot in relatively slow speeds.
Agfa engineers were clever enough to put the CdS cells of the metering system at the six o'clock position of the lens beauty ring, a fact that prevents shadowing of the sensors when a lens hood is used.
Not everything is good on the little Agfa though. For starters, the ASA setting stops at 400 which can be quite limiting if one wants to push fast film. Also, there is no backlight compensation provision, one has to change the ASA setting to deal with backlit subjects.
Additionally (and most annoyingly) the shutter produces an awful screeching sound when fired, probably the worst-sounding shutter I've ever come across, regardless of camera type.
Another ill-conceived feature of the camera (perhaps imposed by the necessity for small size) is the fact that the battery department is accessible only after opening the film door, so in case the batteries die mid-roll, the film must be rewound in order to change them. To make things worse, there doesn't seeem to be any means of knowing if the batteries are weak. The camera uses an uncommon arrangement of three 625 button cells, but at least its exposure system is designed for the common alkaline ones, not the obsolete mercury cells.
For some reason, Agfa deemed it necessary to equip the camera with a red LED lamp that sits above the lens barrel and lights up momentarily every time the shutter is fired, letting everyone know that you've taken their picture. It also blinks during countdown when the (mechanical) self-timer is activated.
As you can see from the picture, the Optima has no strap lugs, as Agfa chose to equip the camera with a proprietary screw-on neck strap that attaches on the left side, a solution that is a complete failure in my opinion. First of all, if you lose the strap there is no way you can replace it with a generic one. Also, the choice of a long neck strap is very poor for such a small, light camera which would benefit most from a short wrist strap, although a pair of scissors and a couple of rivets can easily remedy that. On top of that, placing the wrist strap on the left side is totally counterintuitive, as it virtually precludes secure single-handed operation of the camera with the right hand. According to the manual, the port for the screw-on strap doubles as the tripod mount, although this obviously implies that the camera can be used only in vertical orientation when on a tripod.
Overall, the small size and all-black color, combined with an accurate, fully automatic exposure system, a good semi-wide lens and an unsurpassed viewfinder, make this little Agfa very attractive as a stealthy street shooter. Still, there are a few shortcomings that make it fall short of being the perfect "little black beauty" a title I reserve for the Olympus XA2, my "golden standard" for this particular category of cameras.
La foto con sensor desnudo se parece al efecto "orange-teal", si nuestro ojo fuera igual que un sensor de cámara de fotos, veríamos el entorno así.
With really warm temperatures, our workshop students' cameras were running a little hotter than normal. No, their cameras were not exploding but I did have a little fun with it in this single exposure image captured in Arches National Park.
How I Got The Shot
This is a 20 second single exposure image where I shot for about 15 seconds with the camera locked on the tripod before releasing the camera for the final 5 seconds. During this last 5 seconds, I moved the camera free-hand using the lighted LCD screens to make the smoke.
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Google Translation
AGFA first used this mechanical support of the trigger force with the red trigger on the Optima 200 sensor from 1968. The purpose was to avoid camera shake by using a lower trigger force. This red trigger then became the trademark of all AGFA cameras. In fact, people even tried to transfer this symbol into the digital age.
Here I show a few late specimens, some of which were produced in Japan.
German
AGFA setzte diese Mechanische Unterstützung der Auslösekraft mit dem Roten Auslöser erstmals bei der Optima 200 Sensor von 1968 ein. Der Sinn war durch eine geringere Auslösekraft Verwackelungs-Unschärfe zu vermeiden. Dieser Rote Auslöser wurde daraufhin das Markenzeichen aller AGFA Kameras. Tatsächlich versuchte man dieses Symbol sogar in das Digital Zeitalter zu übertragen.
Hier zeige ich ein paar späte Exemplare deren Produktion teilweise schon aus Japan kam.
I know I risked my camera's sensor burning out because of the direct intense sunlight, but I just couldn't pass this shot up. :O
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Agfa Optima 1535 Sensor • Agfa Paratronic Solitar S 1:2.8/40
Agfaphoto Vista 400 film in Tetenal Colortec C-41
Scanned with Plustek OpticFilm 120 at 1600dpi with Silverfast AI Studio
Bollenberg
near Orschwihr • Hazt-Rhin • Alsace • France
For the person who can't have too much electronic gear.
Part of an ongoing series on Boxes ... making useful or decorative containers out of LEGO.
Building instructions and .ldr file available freely here.
What mainly inspired me for this build:
- intergalactic racing pit stop station something by LEGOLIZE IT MAN (2018).
- Bastard of Winterfell by dasnewten (2011).
- UNES Odyssey 21 by Kyle Collard (2013). I don't recall very well but I think this inspired me for the sensor array and the general black aesthetic behind the hull.
This is my tribute to that glorious era in the 2010's when people like dasnewten, Red Spacecat, LEGOLIZE IT MAN, Ryan Olsen, Alexander Safarik, Tim Schwalfenberg, only to name a few (find all the others in my favorites), were building all those amazing microspace ships more or less inspired by Homeworld universe, or with a brick-built hull.
DC's own Sensor Ghost playing in Lost Origins Gallery in Washington, DC's Mount Pleasant neighborhood.
This detects motion in the front yard and there is one in the backyard. The receiver's eyes light up and a selected chime goes off. Each sensor can have its own chime. So cool.
Testing out an infrared sensor I picked off of the auction site, works pretty good. I put a 3.5 mm plug on it and hooked it to the camera axe. Model number is E18-D50NK.
Selasphorus rufus
2 of 2 new toys. Looking for flare and sensor bounce. Both are reasonable, one small flare lower left of sun. Increasing contrast higher than normal does show some weak sensor reflections. Pretty good for my tastes. Rendering is very appealing to me, great, love it.
At 66, it is art right? It's like everything else in life, you develop an appreciation of your liking. I'm new to this but I think barrel distortion is appreciated, and a little mid frame fall off, nice in this over bright digital world, can be restful. Again, to me, subjects at this angle need to be an element in the group.
Once I find my focus spot, This will be a great addition to my light lens combinations taken on backpacking trips. 12 - 35 is great point and shoot focal lengths. 50 and above require focusing skill I yet to perfect and don't know if possible due to failing visual acuity. (It's not the equipment) When I take my zooms, I tend to be at one extreme or the other. Though I adore my 12-24 f4, it is heavy and bulky for walking chest mount. These eight ounce high performance lenses are nice. On a 2 pound budget, that could mean 4 lenses. Work that into your cross country photo shoot plan. Seems to me, Adams had 3 focal lengths, 35, 50 and 85. I like 12 to 35. The 90 is my Le Conte Canyon lens. On most trips for 2022 I'll take 12, 21, and 35 primes except for the End of Road to MTR via Lake Basin leg when I'll take the 90.
Both lenses , the 90 and this 21, together weigh 1 lb 2 ounces. :)
The first thing to say is that each electronic sensor has a protective filter over it, so we are not actually touching the electronics. That would be a disaster. Most people send the camera off for a service and a clean and that's a very good idea. After all this is an expensive investment and we want to make sure our camera works as well as possible for as long as it can.
But, it is quite easy to clean your sensor at home. All you need is a kit (like the one I've shown). This includes sealed sterile swabs and a little cleaning fluid (they are essential - do not try to clean your sensor with a cloth where you can scratch the dust into the sensor filter). There are also many videos on YouTube showing you how to use these dust cleaning swabs, but provided you get the right size for your camera (mine is full frame) a simple swipe will suffice.
For a DSLR you obviously need to lock your mirror up before the clean, and then lower it immediately afterwards. Then with the other side of the swab give your mirror a quick wipe as well. Do not apply too much pressure. After all, these are only tiny dust particles - you should not have any dirt.
My Leica D-Lux 7 which I used to take these pictures has a fixed lens, so it will never need its micro-four-thirds sensor cleaned.
Introduction to CMOS Image Sensors
evidentscientific.com/en/microscope-resource/knowledge-hu...