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There was a speck of dust on the sensor (upper left) when I received my used D80.

Bottom Shelf: Sock pairing and bundling, rough gradation board, brown stair

 

Second Shelf Up: Beads on horizontal bar (toddler), knobbed cylinder block and blindfold, sound cylindars

 

Third Shelf Up: Pink tower, constructive triangles, Pythagoras "board" (DIY of felt, no actual board)

 

Fourth Shelf up: Temperature tablets, tactile matching (sandpaper) tablets and blindfold, baric tablets

 

Right: Red rods

Sony Cybershot DSC-RX1 mit Vollformat Sensor und 35 Millimeter Festbrennweite.

Lesen Sie den vollständigen Test auf

www.ralfs-foto-bude.de/kameratest/kamerahersteller/sony/s...

 

Sensor dust is a problem for people who have a camera with interchangeable lenses.

Especially lenses with a high magnification factor like tele and macro lenses show dust more clearly than you like.

To show: set your lens to maximum zoom or magnification, choose the smallest aperture possible (f/32), point at a bright even lit subject (blue sky) and take the picture.

Clearly this sensor needs a cleanup.

 

A map of the pentax autofocus sensors. Contrary to what the indications in the viewfinder, these sensors are not points but are T and L shaped on the sides and a cross in the middle. Only the 9 points in the middle are cross sensors.

 

Une carte des zone d'autofocus. Contrairement à ce que le viseur laisse supposer les "points" d'autofocus ne sont pas des points mais des L et T sur les bords et une croix au milieux. Seuls les 9 points du milieu sont de type "croisé" (ils détectent un contraste aussi bien vertical qu'horizontal).

An example of how a sensor clean should be. This is from a Canon 1D mk2N.

 

On the left, a dirty sensor. After a thorough clean the image to the right shows that it was successful.

 

View large to see it properly.

had my sensor cleaned by a canon authorized repair shop twice last month, this is how it looks now :-(

How to monitor system temperature on Linux

 

If you would like to use this photo, be sure to place a proper attribution linking to xmodulo.com

IR sensor voor Fischertechnik kogelbaan. De IR sensor kan werken op 5V en op 9V. Hij is niet gevoeilig voor omgevings licht. Zelfs getest in volle zon blijft hij correct werken. Het stroomverbruik door de IR diode is ongeveer 9mA en de load voor de Phototransistor is 5 mA. Burst van kogels worden mooi verwerkt. Ook getest met de TXT Controller Fischertechnik en 9V voeding.

 

3D files:

www.thingiverse.com/thing:3223760

 

First small stack of the samsung KC73129 chip with the mitutoyo 10x lens and the new led module with 12 x power cree leds.

The lichting time is now shorter, 3ms, and the resolution is better. I hope to be ready end this year with the hole unit and the new controlbox.

This is a 100% crop from the Nikon D7100.

Left side with the old setup, right side with the new setup.

 

Camera sensor.. this is just a few millimeters across.

 

Taken with a reversed 50mm prime lens, taped securely to a filter adapter attached to my Canon S70.

 

My phone died recently. I think the charging circuit quit working, because it would recognize being plugged into power, but the battery never charged. It has since been replaced.

I hate worrying about sensor dust (and cleaning the sensor). Here is the "before" shot.

Sensor readout chip made in 40nm CMOS, operating with a time-based technique.

www.imec-int.com

Jan. 9, 2006 - The Sea-Based X-Band radar arrives in Pearl Harbor, Hawaii, aboard the heavy lift vessel Blue Marlin on January 9, 2006, passing behind the U.S.S. ARIZONA Memorial. Learn more at www.mda.mil/system/sensors.html.

 

Agfa Optima 500 Sensor

 

Apotar - Paratic lens f= 42mm, 1:2,8

 

Auto exposure or B

 

35mm film

 

Here some example photos taken with it.

On my birthday in 1983 I got my first camera. With this camera, an Agfa Optima Sensor, I made my first train pictures.

I will be using this camera in week 71 of my 52 film cameras in 52 weeks project:

52cameras.blogspot.com/

www.flickr.com/photos/tony_kemplen/collections/72157623113584240

  

The first year is documented in this book:

www.blurb.com/bookstore/detail/1902406

Sensor part of the FreeStyle Libre blood glucose monitoring system. This dedicated sensor is integrated on the main board inside the monitoring system. 42 photos are stacked using Zerene Stacker. The full width of the photo is approx. 15mm.

 

Camera: Nikon D850, ISO 64. Lens: AF Micro-Nikkor 60mm f/2.8D @ f/11 + 68mm Kenko extension tubes. Manual controlled microrail @ step-size 200um. Natural light.

Credits: ESA/IPEV/PNRA-B. Healey

Combined acidity/chloride sensor complete with integrated wireless module, allowing the sensor output to be read out on a remote unit. Further size reductions are possible, leading to sweat sensors that are small enough to be integrated into an on-body patch as part of a body area network (BAN), allowing real-time monitoring of dehydration and electrolyte levels, helping people to balance their intake of fluid and salt. This would be especially useful for elderly people suffering from fever and diarrhea whom can become easily dehydrated.

www.imec-int.com

This is the sensor maintainace room on board a Galaxy class starship

This light sensor works reasonably well. Goodluckbuy list it as “Electronic Brick Light Sensor Brick Module” (SKU: 75283). That’s right brick is in there twice.

 

From what I could find I think made by Itead. The A-D switch lets you pick the type of output from the sensor. An analogue voltage or digital high/low. The switch point for digital is adjustable via the pot and the board uses an LM358 op-amp.

 

Programming and working out how to apply an analogue input value to automatically adjust an output brightness value for my series of 7-segment displays proved annoying and I had little success. I believe a lot more trial and error would be needed to make this and other displays adjust with the brightness of the room. Or perhaps I’m just a bit crap.

 

[iteadstudio.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&am...]

Only in HDR that I see my sensor is dirty

It took days to get this thing out of the block. When I get the new one in I hope to know the water temperature as I am driving.

The Agfamatic 100 is a viewfinder camera for Pak-Film 126 cassettes. It has an Agfa Colorstar lens with fixed focus and fixed aperture. Two shutter speeds are selectable with the ring around the lens barrel, the scale showing a cloud and a sun symbol. The camera has a single stroke advance lever that advances the film, cocks the Parator shutter and turns the flash cube holder on which magicubes can be fired as flash. On the axis of the advance lever is the red "sensor", the shutter release button hidden under a round piece of red foil. A little black plastic button side on the side unlocks the back door for opening the camera. The back door has a window for making visible the film cassette's exposure counter. The camera has an optical bright frame viewfinder of reverse Galilean type

 

www.camerapedia.org/wiki/Agfamatic_100

Agfa Optima Sensor (~1982)

Solitar lens 1:2,8/40mm

Paratronic shutter 1/30-1/1000

Zone focus

CDS light meter

The advance lever double functions as rewind lever, after the rewind button is pressed.

 

This camera was made in Portugal

© Soumik mitra photography

Arduino Heartbeat sensor circuit soldered together without a board. Later enshrined in electrical tape.

 

Information: cmpercussion.blogspot.com/2009/07/heartbeat-sensor.html

Simple camera from the 1970s for 126 film.

Sensors fitted with rubber washers and contour rings, you will need to select the correct contour rings to fit the countour of the bumper when fitting the sensors

Walking in Hong Kong.

Blade Runner like sensations...

Mellow weight sensor

 

Available for commercial reuse, must attribute sousvideguy.com on page.

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