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The acrylic does not break the interrupter beam by itself. Simply use some black electrical tape make this work.
MOC: Sensor GTR. A variation of the theme from my previous Supercar - I wanted to see if I could build something a supercar that looked a bit more like it was meant for the road than for the track. Very happy with the result.
OM-D E-M1 en 12-40mm F2.8
Vandaag voor de 3e dag op rij shooten voor winkeliersvereniging 'in de zaan bocht'
15 winkels vastleggen op de Olympus sensor. gisteravond snel een pano uit de hand getrokken van 21 foto's op de kade.
Hollandsche luchten, een avond zonnetje...het moest even.
Fijne dag allemaal
Centro José Valverde. Parque Nacional de Doñana.
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según Foveon.
tamaño de archivo raw 57,70MB. Formato 1.5x
SD1 Merril + 50mm sigma 2.8
SIGMA SD1 Merrill
ƒ/13.0 50.0 mm 1/100 iso 100
Sensor in original position was reading approx 5 degrees higher than ambient. Re-positioning resulted in correct temperature readings.
Code available here - github.com/ibuildrockets/NixieTemperatureDisplay
Sensor City is a collaboration between the University of Liverpool and Liverpool John Moores University and is a flagship University Enterprise Zone.
D100 focus sensor chip.
Forground leds 6 channels, 6800 lumen, 4 ms.
Zerene 35 stacks 3 um
Nikon D7100 + AFD200/F4 + Mitutoyo M Plan APO 10X.
Mirror up time 1500 ms.
Led flash delay 380 ms
The Agfamatic 100 is a viewfinder camera for Pak-Film 126 cassettes. It has an Agfa Colorstar lens with fixed focus and fixed aperture. Two shutter speeds are selectable with the ring around the lens barrel, the scale showing a cloud and a sun symbol. The camera has a single stroke advance lever that advances the film, cocks the Parator shutter and turns the flash cube holder on which magicubes can be fired as flash. On the axis of the advance lever is the red "sensor", the shutter release button hidden under a round piece of red foil. A little black plastic button side on the side unlocks the back door for opening the camera. The back door has a window for making visible the film cassette's exposure counter. The camera has an optical bright frame viewfinder of reverse Galilean type
Sieht zwar nach OBD2 aus, sind aber GPS-Daten und deshalb nicht so genau, insbesondere für die Beschleunigung.
Disused "Sensor Test Stand" decaying away in a military equipment junkyard in San Antonio, Texas.
The words "SENSOR TEST STAND" had been stenciled in the top left corner of this unit, and there was a word in front of it, but it had weathered to the point where I couldn't read it for certain, but I think it said "GASKET", which might make sense with the pressure gauges and what not on the unit.
Terrible composition, I know...but I was in a hurry, and this was a one-shot deal.
See an aerial view of this junkyard to get an idea of the size.
Night, full moon, xenon flashlight.
Shot with a G7, macro mode, looking through the lens of the Sensor Klear Loupe at my 40D's sensor. The magnifying glass plus LEDs provides a clear view of the sensor and any dust on it.
View large for the full horror.
I decided to clean my sensor last night.
I'd gotten a bit tired of cloning out the same dust spots from my photos taken over the last few months.
I use the Arctic Butterfly from Visible Dust to clean, I'd only used it once before but I was very impressed with it.
So, I took the lens off and set the camera to Sensor Cleaning mode.
After the first clean most of the dust had gone, but a few small smears had appeared.
I decided I'd better clean it again as smears would be a lot harder to clone out than the odd spot.
I did it again, put the lens back on, took a test shot and nearly died - I'd somehow managed to seriously gunge up my sensor.
I cleaned it about 3 times more and it still wouldn't go away.
I then decided to do some googling around to see what online advice I could find.
Micheal Reichmann's site is actually the number one hit for "Arctic Butterfly" on Google, and it contains this gem:
"7: If there is a stubborn particle, note where in the frame it is, and then with the shutter open in cleaning mode, shine a flashlight into the mirror housing at an oblique angle. You should be able to see it. Just remember that the location will be upside down from where you saw it on the monitor.
8: Try using the Butterfly again, this time concentrating on the spot. If this doesn't work, you'll need more sophisticated cleaning tools, such as the swabs and fluids available from VisibleDust."
Following the advice I brushed the sensor back and forth on the problem spots, which were easily visible.
I then re-attached the lens, took the test shot and hey presto, clean!
Not sure what I did wrong to get all that gunk on there, I just hope I can go another 6 months or so without having to clean it again.
IR sensor voor Fischertechnik kogelbaan. De IR sensor kan werken op 5V en op 9V. Hij is niet gevoeilig voor omgevings licht. Zelfs getest in volle zon blijft hij correct werken. Het stroomverbruik door de IR diode is ongeveer 9mA en de load voor de Phototransistor is 5 mA. Burst van kogels worden mooi verwerkt. Ook getest met de TXT Controller Fischertechnik en 9V voeding.
3D files:
A map of the pentax autofocus sensors. Contrary to what the indications in the viewfinder, these sensors are not points but are T and L shaped on the sides and a cross in the middle. Only the 9 points in the middle are cross sensors.
Une carte des zone d'autofocus. Contrairement à ce que le viseur laisse supposer les "points" d'autofocus ne sont pas des points mais des L et T sur les bords et une croix au milieux. Seuls les 9 points du milieu sont de type "croisé" (ils détectent un contraste aussi bien vertical qu'horizontal).