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This illustration from the book The Magic Lantern How To Buy And How To Use It and How To Raise A Ghost showing the stage illusion called "Pepper's Ghost".
Ruins of the chapel from 18th century
Canon EOS 5D Mark II
Samyang T-S 24mm f3.5
didymium filter
flashes with gel filters
ISO 320
f/8
8 minutes
Website : lvalenciaphoto.wordpress.com/
Canon 5d mark 2
Canon 24-105mm
Magic lantern dual-iso 100-1600
Tous droits réservés © L. VALENCIA
Merci de ne pas utiliser cette photo sans mon autorisation.
shot using the new Lensbaby Circular Fisheye www.lensbaby.com/
For more info about the new lens head to www.lensbabylovers.info
© Nuno Caldeira
For licensing and inquiries ✉ hello@iamnunocaldeira.com www.iamnunocaldeira.com
A stunning view I captured of Messier 13: The Hercules Cluster on April 19, 2015 at Frosty Drew Observatory in Charlestown, Rhode Island, USA. Messier 13 is a massive globular cluster in the constellation Hercules. Found at 25,000 light years distant, M13 is about 150 light years in diameter. The core region of M13 is so dense, that upwards of 100 stars may exist in an area of 3 light years of space. M13 is barely naked eye visible under dark skies without the Moon present.
Photo Details:
Camera: Canon 60D MagicLantern
1370mm
f/9
ISO: 2500
Exposure: 120 seconds * 10 frames
This is a median composite of 10 shots to reduce noise.
-Scott
Please view large on black!
This is my first successful attempt at astrophotography! The first night was a bust, but I learned what not to do. I'm impressed this is even possible with just an (unmodified) dSLR, a fast lens, a tripod, and special software to process a number of images! The entrance to the park area of Tuttle Creek Lake is reasonably dark and shielded from the lights of Manhattan.
I am currently using Deep Sky Stacker, a free program, to process the individual images. It is critical that the stars do not have star trails, otherwise there tends to be problems precisely registering the images so that they align perfectly. I am using the highest ISO that gathers actual data as opposed to just adding noise. This is dependent on the camera model; it seems to be ISO 1600 for the Canon T2i. Prefer a fast prime lens to a zoom lens, especially when no kind of tracking is available. I used other ISO speeds in an attempt to gather more color information.
Be sure to turn off the display when you are taking pictures. The display will add extra heat to the inside of the camera, which will needlessly add extra heat to the CMOS sensor. For a CCD based sensor the noise doubles for every 6C (10.8F) increase in temperature. I don't know if these numbers conform exactly to a CMOS based sensor, but the principle still applies. While running technical tests on the Canon T2i by shooting a series of dark pictures, I found that the sensor noticeably heats up and produces far more noise. With a comparable set of darks with the display turned on, the sensor heated up even faster and produced a corresponding amount of extra noise. As a side note, with all things being equal and with a camera that isn't temperature controlled, it is better to take astrophotographic pictures while it is cooler outside for essentially the same reason. The cooler ambient temperatures keep the CMOS sensor cooler, which keeps the amount of noise down.
I found the Magic Lantern firmware to be immensely helpful in correctly focusing my lens in live preview and also providing an intervalometer. Focusing with the live preview is helpful, but it is best to take test pictures and compare them on a laptop before you get too far. It is just too hard to tell for sure if the focus is perfect on the LCD screen of the camera. It is better to spend more time upfront than to come back and find that all of your pictures are out of focus.
In the 151 image stack there were 3 sets of images. In each set there were about 50 light frames, 20 dark frames, and 100 bias frames. The dark and bias frames help to greatly reduce the noise in the image. I used photoshop to bring out as much detail and color as possible without emphasizing the noise too much.
Comparing visible stars to the catalog in Stellarium, it appears that the faintest recognizable star is around 13.7 apparent magnitude in the 151 stacked image versus 10.8 apparent magnitude in the single non-stacked image. [Apparent Magnitude]
I initially thought that 14x times more light was being picked up in the stacked image. (2.512 ^ (13.7 - 10.8) = 14.46) because the faintest recognizable star went from 10.8 to 13.7 apparent magnitude when comparing the single image to the stacked image. I'm not 100% sure any more. I previously thought that light was being gathered in a non-linear fashion with multiple exposures. A discussion on the Deep Sky Stacker Yahoo group, claims that an additional amount of exposure worth of light isn't being gathered in the stacking process. Instead, they say stacking greatly improves the signal in the resultant image, such that the faintest recorded stars are visible above the noise. The faint stars are in all of the exposures, but they are buried in noise. And additionally Blair MacDonald mentions that "In order to be detectable in the image a single star must be about 3 standard deviations above the noise floor."
However, I'm not convinced that no additional exposure worth of light is being added during the stacking process. In an exchange with someone else he says that "… a modern SLR is truly sensitive enough to capture and digitize individual photons. The read noise is generally between 2-20 equivalent photons, so that definitely gets in the way, because the light source you're trying to measure itself has noise (Poisson distribution). But yes, you can stack almost infinitely dim sub-exposures to get a result. The extra time required goes up dramatically at some point, because the read noise accumulates, but it is possible. This is why, all things being equal, longer exposures are better. But most of the time all things are not equal."--anonymous. If cameras are that sensitive, I can see how given enough sub-exposures and stacking, a periodic photon source at a particular pixel that only shows up in every x sub-exposures could still be translated into a luminosity value above zero.
To my knowledge everyone is recommending a certain number of sub-exposures to deal with practical issues, such as noise and tracking issues over very long exposures. John Smith released a couple of papers that are useful in determining the number of sub-exposures in imaging a particular deep sky object. I have created a spread sheet based on his work that should be useful to others getting started with astrophotography. You put in an initial sub-exposure time and total exposure time and it updates two tables. One table shows different options for keeping the same SNR but adjusting the number of subs-exposures and individual exposure times. The other table shows how SNR changes by keeping the total exposure time constant, but varying the number of subs-exposures and the individual exposure times. You can find it here. You should be able to open the spreadsheet either in Open Office or Excel.
There are some options for choosing the number of sub-exposures, but there is a practical minimum exposure that is needed to record the object. The practical minimum will depend on a number of factors. Some of them include the background sky luminosity, the camera/sensor being used, and the target object's luminosity. Keep this in mind when looking at the spreadsheet.
On a related note, I went out again and took over 1,400 images of the Orion Nebula with 200 dark frames! The outing was a bit of a bust because the images were slightly out of focus and had star trails. Despite the problems, I processed them as a massive stack with sigma clipping in Deep Sky Stacker. The image was virtually noise free and it appeared that there was slightly more exposure, but not by a huge amount given the number of pictures. The faintest recognizable star may have been about .5 magnitude dimmer in the 1,400 image stack. Maybe if it had been more in focus, there would have been a more dramatic improvement?
I am working on building a barn door tracker so that I can take much longer exposures and get images that are not practically possible for me right now. Being limited to 1 to 2 seconds at 85mm is very restrictive! It will use an Arduino and a stepper motor for automated tracking. From what I have read, I should be able to get 15x as long exposures (or more) before star trails show up.
In the process of learning more about lenses and astrophotography, I found out that chromatic aberration can be particularly problematic with the use of lenses. Most photographers are more familiar with the variety known as lateral chromatic aberration. But a special kind of chromatic aberration known as longitudinal chromatic aberration (or axial color), shows up as colored fringing that completely incircles objects such as stars. This is caused by the lens being unable to focus all wave lengths of visible light at the same point. My 85mm lens is not apochromatic and thus exhibits this flaw. I have gone back and replaced the original image that I uploaded with a hand corrected version that attempts to visually minimize the color fringing. Color tends to build up perceived contrast, so I greatly reduced the saturation of color in the purplish fringes and replaced the color with a small amount of random color from the background sky. I feel that this change is a noticeable improvement over the original. If anyone has thoughts on this, I welcome their input.
my identifier: orion nebula d
Long exposure of 5 RAW and bracketing of 2EV (+4, +2, 0, -2, -4). HDR fusion with Photoshop and tone-mapping with Lightroom.
Website : lvalenciaphoto.wordpress.com/
Canon 5d mark 2
Canon 24-105mm
Magic Lantern dual-iso 100-1600
Tous droits réservés © L. VALENCIA
Merci de ne pas utiliser cette photo sans mon autorisation.
shot using the Lensbaby Composer Pro II with Edge 50 Optic www.lensbaby.com/
© Nuno Caldeira
For licensing and inquiries ✉ hello@iamnunocaldeira.com www.iamnunocaldeira.com
Made around 1900 by Gebrüder Bing Nürnberg of Germany, this lantern still has its original oil burner inside hence the need for the very tall chimney, also has tiger claw feet at each corner and is the body ismade from tin plate
Website : lvalenciaphoto.wordpress.com/
Canon 5d mark 2
Sigma 70-200mm
Magic lantern Dualiso
Tous droits réservés © L. VALENCIA
Merci de ne pas utiliser cette photo sans mon autorisation
Website : lvalenciaphoto.wordpress.com/
Canon 5d mark 2
Canon 24-105mm
Magic lantern dualiso 100-800 iso
Tous droits réservés © L. VALENCIA
Merci de ne pas utiliser cette photo sans mon autorisation.
Wadi Rum Desert, Jordan
5x300sec ISO100 14mm f/5 + 1x180s ISO100 14mm f/5 pour le premier plan
Canon 600D + Samyang 14mm f/2.8 AE
Intervalometer : MagicLantern
StarMax software
Website : lvalenciaphoto.wordpress.com/
Canon 5d mark 2
Sigma 70-200mm
Magic lantern Dualiso
Tous droits réservés © L. VALENCIA
Merci de ne pas utiliser cette photo sans mon autorisation
© All rights reserved 2012. Please do not use my images without my explicit permission.
View this image BIG on black for a better viewing experience!
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The magnificent Taipei 101 towers above the rest of Taipei City, Taiwan. This image was taken shortly before sunrise!
Enjoy! :)
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If you are interested in purchasing any images of mine please email me at - olliesmalleyphotography@gmail.com for licensing details.
Enjoy!
...[ Camera ] ... Canon 5D Mark 2.
...[ Lens ] ... Canon 24-105mm f/4L IS USM @ 105mm.
...[ Settings ] ... 0.6" @ f/8 ISO 100.
...[ Editing ] ... Edited in LR5.
...[ Filters ] ... None.
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Composizione di 363 scatti (+10 dark frame) da 25 s ripresi ogni 30 s tra le 1:55 e le 4:23 a f/4 e 1600 ISO con Canon 550D, obiettivo 18-55 EF-S + aggiuntivo a grande campo Opteka 0,45 HD².
Immagini acquisite usando la funzione intervallometro di Magic Lantern (magiclantern.wikia.com/) e composte usando StarStax (www.starstax.net/).
Meno affollata del mio primo esperimento, e con più colori. Che ne dite?
www.flickr.com/photos/gerlos/5998629078/in/set-7215762685...
shot using the new Lensbaby
Sweet 50 optic lensbaby.com/optics-sweet50
© Nuno Caldeira
For licensing and inquiries ✉ hello@iamnunocaldeira.com www.iamnunocaldeira.com
This is a glass slide showing an empty stage and a theatrical curtain and crest.
The slide is from some time between the late 19th century and early 20th century. It would have been viewed using a magic lantern, an early type of image projector.
This image is part of the Tyne & Wear archives & museums set Playing Tricks.
(Copyright) We're happy for you to share this digital image within the spirit of The Commons. Please cite 'Tyne & Wear Archives & Museums' when reusing. Certain restrictions on high quality reproductions and commercial use of the original physical version apply though; if you're unsure please email adam.bell@twmuseums.org.uk
I tried the "Magic lantern" HDR Bracketing!
To start bracketing, take only the first picture and ML will continue the sequence
My first Blurb book @ www.blurb.com/books/3943007-taiwan-will-touch-your-heart
To see my portfolio visit: borissmokrovic.500px.com
The Black-crowned Night Heron (Nycticorax nycticorax), commonly abbreviated to just Night Heron in Eurasia, is a medium-sized heron found throughout a large part of the world, except in the coldest regions and Australasia (where replaced by the closely related Rufous Night Heron, with which it has hybridized in the area of contact).
IMG_5787_88_89_90_91_fused-3
Camera Only - No Telescope and No Tracking
456 of 570 images stacked in DSS using 3x drizzle
70 darks and 100 bias frames were used to improve processing of the light images
ISO 1600, f/1.8, 1.3 seconds, 85mm prime lines
Canon T2i
Magic Lantern firmware used for intervalometer and 10x live preview focusing
ambient temperature - 33F / 0.5C
faintest identifiable star - 15.4 magnitude
This is the best image I have taken of the Andromeda Galaxy. I spent a lot of time this winter learning about astrophotography and trying to utilize my existing photo equipment to image the night time sky with only a camera and tripod. I went so far as to build a barn door tracker to move the camera with the same motion of the night time sky and get longer exposure times. Unfortunately, the longer exposure times brought out more star bloat.
This summer I might try pushing this technique of stacking short exposures to the extreme by stacking 1,500 sub-exposures. I would like to see more tonality and color in the Andromeda galaxy.
my identifier: Autosave a2 16bit 3
Slovakia, Nitra: The Adventure 015 #PHOTOFRANO
Photography & FineArt by photofrano
“Exposure is just the beginning” #HDR #BW
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#PHOTOFRANO #SLOVAKIA #landscapephotography #landscapelover #landscape_captures #landscape_photography #landscape_hunter #landscape_lovers #landscapecaptures #landscape_specialist #optoutside #discoverearth #exploretheglobe #earthfocus #ourplanetdaily #earthofficial #main_vision #photographyeveryday #photographylover #fineart #HDR
The start of my Ko Samui journey from Hat Yai, Thailand.
The sun was behind the buddha.
Blended 7 frames HDR with assist of Magic Lantern, Photomatic Pro, Topaz Adjust and the brightest frame to bring out the foreground.
Website : lvalenciaphoto.wordpress.com/
Le FRAC
Architecte : Kengo Kuma
Canon 5d mark 2
Sigma Art 35mm
Magic lantern dualiso 100-800 iso
Tous droits réservés © L. VALENCIA
Merci de ne pas utiliser cette photo sans mon autorisation
Walking the beach playing peek-a-bo with the Moon at my back. Long exposure, small aperature, 14 mm, and Susan's Canon SL1 (baby T5i).
My camera is set to manual 1/100, F5.0 ISO200
and I trigger with a short whistle,
I use homemade software on my camera and firmware from www.magiclantern.fm/releasenotes.
My cheap wire Nissin flash stands to the right, with a homemade softbox (ice-box clothing with an emergency blanket) to the left is an old movie canvas which is a great reflector and up, there is a styrofoam plate.
The picture is edited in the free program www.gimp.org/
and is a composite of two images, one with a hand and the banana (with wire) and one with only the background.
I captured this shot of the 2% crescent Moon on Friday afternoon, December 30, 2016. This was the last time we saw the Moon in Rhode Island for 2016. I shot this at Frosty Drew Observatory in Charlestown, RI. Happy New Year!
Photo Details:
Camera: Canon 60D MagicLantern
50mm
f/5
ISO: 640
Exposure: 4 sub images each shot with + 1 EV with 1/10 second base.
This is a Mertens-Kautz-Van Reeth exposure composite of 4 images to increase dynamic range.
-Scott