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Had my wheels professionally re-furbished over the last week. pretty pleased with the results. The front faces came up well but they had some trouble with the inner side as the paint had blistered off long ago leaving the alloy exposed to the elements. there is still some pitting evident but as it won't be visible, I don't care

I bought a pair of Boya powered omni-directional lapel mics as the internal mic on the GoPro is rubbish and all you got was wind noise. One is mounted in the boot pointing towards the exhausts

First to ride the streets of KitCity is this truck to bring stuff from pointA to pointB. Now it's hoping for pointA's and -B's to be there in the future. And it's Charles to be steering this paper vehicle. Hi Charles!

 

Download for free at www.3eyedbear.com

Operated by: Kinetic Melbourne North Fitzroy

Built in: 02-2010

Manufacturer: Volgren Malaysia

Model: CR228L

(Chassis): Volvo B7RLE

Notes: several previous operators

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8385 seen on route 350 to LaTrobe Uni

 

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Shot from above with the new alternator in position on the Marlin. You can see how close it comes to the side of the engine bay. It looks worse than it is. When you put the panel on, there's actually nearly 10mm clearance on that front corner and plenty for the B+ terminal.

 

I'm just waiting for the new belt tensioner and belt to turn up

|meravigliose piastrelle rosa-kitch in bagno|

I've been waiting all week for a specially designed engine lifting chain to arrive and it still hasn't. Out of sheer impatience I went for it with a bit of old rope lying around the garage. Doubled back I figured it would do the job to lower it to the ground

N/S view of the installed hand brake lever. One of these bolts will need to go to ground for the very simple handbrake warning light switch to work. Rather than do it through the chassis I'll get hold of a big ring/spade connector and run a dedicated line along with the +'ve to the switch itself

1954 Ockelbo at Prins Bertil memorial.

O/S view of the handbrake lever.

 

By putting the mounts down in the tunnel rather than on top, the lever sits that much lower which judging by it's relative position to the seats and gear stick hole will make it a little easier to operate

bit.ly/myhaven Toronto green home project on Barryman, view of kitchen detail and tiling.

Un peu grand pour deux touristes, mais il faut ajouter les deux guides et le chauffeur de KITC (Korean International Travel Company) qui nous accompagnent.

This is the cheap second hand metro brake servo I bought for £20 with a couple of coats of hammerite. No idea if it works but it will do the job for now and at least now I can handle it without getting filth all over my hands

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I've mounted my GoPro on top of the roll over bar using a pair of 45mm exhaust clamps and the mounting plate that the camera came attached to in the box. I need to replace this with the proper mount and a metal plate as it flexes when you hit 60 causing an annoying bouncing on the footage.

 

For sound there is a GoPro USB to 3.6mm jack adapter and this is connected to a 2into1 3.5mm jack adapter so I can use two mics. I had to buy an after market housing to allow connection to the USB interface.

sitting in the middle of the garage ready for the flywheel and clutch to go on and then I have the interesting challange of mating the gearbox on. I suspect the crane may get involved then too.

 

I was a little bit sus of the angle it's sitting at on those stands but it seems ok. I may support on the crane again while doing the other jobs just in case it moves under torque

April 2012 trip to DPRK, North Korea for the 100th year birthday celebrations for Kim Il Sung - check out my North Korea blog at americaninnorthkorea.com/

  

this is after a few coats of VHT grey primer engine enamel. looks pretty good but there are still defects showing through so I've since ground those out, re-filled again and it's ready to be sanded back yet again.

 

You're supposed to leave this VHT paint 7 days between coats so I'll just go straight to Satin black top coat on the weekend.

 

You're really supposed to oven bake for 20 minutes to give the enamel its chemical resistance but

a) I don't have an oven big enough

b) the trouble I would be in if I was caught is not worth it. Doing the final rinse off in the bath drew enough attention as it was

 

The heat from the engine will cure it eventually but I'll have to be careful not to spill solvents etc on it in the mean time

Salvaged E30 master cylinder test installed on the metro servo with the Marlin adapter. After cleaning up all the parts I gave the cylinder two coats of caliper paint. All the seals were in good condition so I'm re-using for now.

 

The only problem I can see is that the upward angle of the reservoir will mean I'll have to fill to the lip of the top up hole to get the equivalent of MAX.

 

There was a small disc inside the front reservior port (for the rear brakes). No idea what it's for so I'm open to suggestions as it may need a specific orientation.

 

I'm assuming the forward output port is for the rear brakes via a T-piece I'll locate at the rear and the rear ports can both be used, one for each of the front calipers. Normally I think that bottom port is sealed up with a bolt but it makes life easier if I can pull a line from each

2014年10月1日到5日北朝鲜旅行.可以携带手机和单反,一路下来拍了数千张照片,不可以拍军警.导游希望是正面反映朝鲜的,我说我拍的是我看到的真实的,所以尽量拍多点...

Tourism in North Korea is organized by one of 4 state-owned tourism bureaus, including Korea International Travel Company (KITC), Korean International Sports Travel Company (KISTC) and Korean International Youth Travel Company (KIYTC).

2014, Oct, I visited the North Korea for 5 days. It seems more than thousands Chinese tourist during national holiday. I carried my mobile phone and camera, it’s ok to take photography and interaction with local people as long as you don’t shot military.

via Michael Alari Design bit.ly/2RKvWeQ

 

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I was overcome by the urge to have a look at what was going on under the engine rocker cover. Quite a bit of varnishy stuff but nothing to get upset about on a 150K engine.

 

The lump on the end of the intake cam (right) is the single VANOS system on the later M50 engines

The manifold is now fitted with the new gaskets and copper nuts. There were about 10 that were a pain to install due to being behind a pipe so it took about an hour of spannering. I was advised that as stainless steel expands much more than mild steel to just nip the nuts up rather than torquing them down. They are the weird crushed oval shape lock nuts that BMW seems to favour so won't work loose.

 

If the sound it makes when just turning the engine over with no fuel is anything to go by it's going to be a bit fruity when I start for real.

 

I ran a wire down to my sump plug oil temp sensor too while I still had access.

 

The engine now has 8.25 litres of 50/50 blue coolant and fingers crossed all I need to do before the first start tomorrow is pop some fuel in and test the pumps are working and that none of my fuel pipe work is leaking.

The same O/S mount on the lever doesn't quite line up with the pre-drilled hole in the chassis plus it sits about 5 mm short height wise.

Y piece supplied with the kit to guide hand brake cables. For some reason Marlin don't provide the fasteners in hand brake pack 4 so I'm using my own M6 bits n bobs

Loads of room for massive exhaust headers

Ordered a few more parts from the BMW dealer, left to right

 

- Brake pipes for the rear arms. Rather frustratingly these are not the pre-formed into the S shapes which was the whole point of buying them rather than making my own

- brake pipe clips for the rear arms. donor ones were very rotten

- top damper mount gaskets. as the marlin is open top this is probably a waste of time but I'm just following the haynes manual

- "Plates", basically big washers that sit on top of the damper rods

- grease caps for the front hubs

Looks pretty precarious but was more level front to back in reality. getting it off the engine stand was easier than installing as a big rubber mallet came into play.

My mate Matt from round the corner gave me a hand with the install. You could do this on your own but having two people to watch all the angles and apply pressure in the right places makes it a lot easier.

 

It's definitely worth hacking off the old power steering pump mount from the side of the oil filter mechanism before install. I had to do it near the end as the engine just physically wouldn't drop into the hole.

 

Removing the brake servo and steeing column extension is also a must. With these things out of the way and a lot of up and down to clear things it goes in pretty smoothly but clearances all round are very tight

Finished cleaning and polishing the sump. It's a long way from perfect but miles better than when I started and more than good enough to go back on the engine. Like the rocker cover, the casting or welding (however it's made) is full of imperfections so it's never going to have a chrome like mirror finish but it definitely needs to stay as bare metal and not be painted

 

I used a combination of drill mounted wire brushes (too harsh), wet and dry and the buffed it with the dremel and some autosol polish. I'd never normally use a wire brush on ali but it was so oxidised anyway the damage was already done

The crank sensor wouldn't budge as the ali of the front timing case in which it sits was so oxidised that it was gripping it tight. It is an obvious thing that I would want to renew so went at it using some less delicate methods. Judging by the state of the ali this is the original item

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