View allAll Photos Tagged kitc...
The more recent Domino Pimlico I acquired. It has been under cover all winter and I am about to start the restoration. Wish me luck!
(Ignore the Hillman Imp gearbox and Triumph GT6 differential in the pic!)
The thermostat also refused to budge despite the haynes manual suggesting it would practically fall out.
Again, this is a good thing to swap anyway and as they're cheap and readily available it makes sense to.
loom out on the floor.
That's the last thing I need from the donor so I can now look for someone to come and take it away. Lot sof very good parts left so hopefully I can make a few more quid back
The back of the head on the M50 engine has an outlet for the cabin heater. I'm not going to be having one so needed to blank it off. I made a template with a piece of paper and cut out a rough shape from 3mm aluminium. A bit of filing, sanding, polishing and two 5mm holes with some cut down M5 screws finished the job. I ran some RTV silicone underneath in lieu of a gasket and as the cooling system is not under high pressure, this should be fine
[EDIT] I've since put the outlet back on and plumbed it in as I was worried about not getting the correct coolant flow near the back of the head. May revert back again at some point though
Crank position sensor installed with the little cable duct cleaned up and back in place using a couple of new M6 nuts as I couldn't figure out how to get the old clips to reinstall.
The sensor just sends a pulse to the ECU triggered by the notches on the damper wheel thingy going past.
I suspect that this is also the source of the engine rev information and that the position is actually sent by the bit of the wheel that has the notches missing
You can see here looking down the length of the hand brake lever that the O/S mount is at a funny angle. I corrected that by popping it in the vice and gentle bending it to shape
Operated by: Kinetic Melbourne Doncaster
Built in: 06-2019
Manufacturer: Gemilang Australia
Model: Standard City Bus
(Chassis): Scania K310UB
Notes: ex-TransDev 1113
___________________
906 Warrandyte via The Pines
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Please do not use this image without first asking for permission. Thank you.
To stop the flywheel turning while torquing up the bolts I put a breaker bar on the other end of the engine on the main nut using a 22mm socket. This braced against the floor as I torqued these bolts up.
The fly wheel was cleaned using some brake cleaned on a rag. don't spray the wheel directly or it will get in at the grease inside
The caked on exhaust soot that you can still see the out line of here suggests that there is potential for some porting to improve performance, not now though.
I'm planning on going for either an M3 or custom copy anyway so that will be the point to worry about porting
I cleaned out the inside of the end of the crankshaft with some brake cleaner and gently tapped the new bearing in with a little coper grease on it using a 24mm socket on the outer bearing race
Nice new shiny DMF from LUK plus a set of bolts. This cost about 1/4 of what I paid for the entire donor car!!!
The original plan was to use the old DMF Peter gave me but the new clutch kit wouldn't fit as all the dowels and screw holes were out by a few mm. After a lot of head scratching and web scouring we managed to work out that it was for a 318 and not a 328 as he'd originally been led to believe. I think in the long run it will be better to take the hit now though and know I have a solid setup rather than hit vibration and gear change issues a short way down the road and have to take the whole lot out again to diagnose.
close up of the JIC3 to M10 adapters using the Marlin supplied hoses. On all the threaded joints I've used some standard plumping PTFE table to help ensure a good seal.
Once I have the new servo I'll make up some sort of bracket to tidily route the lines down the side of the Master Cylinder
Under side of the rocker cover is not such a pretty sight. Serious amounts of oil are caked and burned on.
I've spent a few hours cleaning this up with Gunk and got the inside quite clean. A lot of the paint was flaking inside as bad as the outside so it is a good job I;m doing this.
Looking to get the entire thing bead blasted as getting the paint completely off is proving pretty tricky
One of the 14mm guide sleeves on the engine block was missing. It is probably stuck in the auto box. A new one went in easily using a G-clamp after cleaning out the hole and whacking a little copper grease in there.
The only way to get the Marlin supplied hoses to connect to the off the shelf HEL hose kit was by taking a 7mm thick M10 jam nut and grinding it down to 4mm. It has actually worked out quite well
The cover from my auto box would have fitted, I think it has a little rubber inspection cover over one of the holes. as it only cost a few quid and was nice and shiny I thought I may as well still use the new one
Oil filter housing has been removed from the block for cleaning. I've sent it of to a local-ish company for vapour blasing and ultrasonic cleaning as my attempts to clean with a dremel were hopeless.
Next step is to wirebrush this side of the block, Krust the rust and mask up ready for paint
I still need to finish cleaning up and polishing the fasteners to go around the rocker cover (only 9 more to go at 1/2 hour each)
The plastic engine cover is now letting down my nice new rocker cover finish. I'm going to try a bit of trim blackener on it to see if the improves things a bit