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To stop the flywheel turning while torquing up the bolts I put a breaker bar on the other end of the engine on the main nut using a 22mm socket. This braced against the floor as I torqued these bolts up.
The fly wheel was cleaned using some brake cleaned on a rag. don't spray the wheel directly or it will get in at the grease inside
The caked on exhaust soot that you can still see the out line of here suggests that there is potential for some porting to improve performance, not now though.
I'm planning on going for either an M3 or custom copy anyway so that will be the point to worry about porting
I cleaned out the inside of the end of the crankshaft with some brake cleaner and gently tapped the new bearing in with a little coper grease on it using a 24mm socket on the outer bearing race
Nice new shiny DMF from LUK plus a set of bolts. This cost about 1/4 of what I paid for the entire donor car!!!
The original plan was to use the old DMF Peter gave me but the new clutch kit wouldn't fit as all the dowels and screw holes were out by a few mm. After a lot of head scratching and web scouring we managed to work out that it was for a 318 and not a 328 as he'd originally been led to believe. I think in the long run it will be better to take the hit now though and know I have a solid setup rather than hit vibration and gear change issues a short way down the road and have to take the whole lot out again to diagnose.
close up of the JIC3 to M10 adapters using the Marlin supplied hoses. On all the threaded joints I've used some standard plumping PTFE table to help ensure a good seal.
Once I have the new servo I'll make up some sort of bracket to tidily route the lines down the side of the Master Cylinder
Under side of the rocker cover is not such a pretty sight. Serious amounts of oil are caked and burned on.
I've spent a few hours cleaning this up with Gunk and got the inside quite clean. A lot of the paint was flaking inside as bad as the outside so it is a good job I;m doing this.
Looking to get the entire thing bead blasted as getting the paint completely off is proving pretty tricky
One of the 14mm guide sleeves on the engine block was missing. It is probably stuck in the auto box. A new one went in easily using a G-clamp after cleaning out the hole and whacking a little copper grease in there.
The only way to get the Marlin supplied hoses to connect to the off the shelf HEL hose kit was by taking a 7mm thick M10 jam nut and grinding it down to 4mm. It has actually worked out quite well
The cover from my auto box would have fitted, I think it has a little rubber inspection cover over one of the holes. as it only cost a few quid and was nice and shiny I thought I may as well still use the new one
Oil filter housing has been removed from the block for cleaning. I've sent it of to a local-ish company for vapour blasing and ultrasonic cleaning as my attempts to clean with a dremel were hopeless.
Next step is to wirebrush this side of the block, Krust the rust and mask up ready for paint
I still need to finish cleaning up and polishing the fasteners to go around the rocker cover (only 9 more to go at 1/2 hour each)
The plastic engine cover is now letting down my nice new rocker cover finish. I'm going to try a bit of trim blackener on it to see if the improves things a bit
I thought the outside of the sump was going to be the easy bit to clean as it was oily so shouldn't have oxidised but it turns out to be a bit of a pig.
I've sanded back the larger areas but the fiddly bits will take forever
Gave the front ends of the trailing arms a night in the electrolysis tank as they were pretty nasty.
Need to get these bushes out
There is some hope still of getting it polished up. This is after a quick rub over with a scotch pad and then I hit a test area with two grades of wet and dry to get to this after about 10 minutes. I think I'll clean up a bit more then send off to a local polisher to bring it up properly
refitted the oil filter housing with a new gasket. cleaned up and polished the six bolts holding it on and the long on that holds the filter cap on.
I've also reinstalled the oil pressure sensor on the back and the banjo bolt for the bottom end of the VANOS oil line that runs up to the front of the head
Cleaning out the inside of the sump was mucky but none of the stuff inside was stubborn.
The baffle plate that the oil pick up goes though is swaged/ rivited in place. I really would like to take it out to ensure the unreachable bits are clean too but not sure if it's worth it. At the same time I don't like the idea of the now soapy, water oil mix remaining in there.
The old gasket had rusted a bit and become welded to the ali so I had to re-finish the sealing surface with some wet and dry. on the bottom right it was pretty bad so I'll need whack some extra RTV sealant on that bit
3 coats of Ford Gray VHT engine enamel applied. masking this off was a good hour's work but worth it.
I was looking at aero engines in a museum last week and want to try and create some of that dressed up look that's missing from boring modern engine bays. Some brass/copper pipework will be necessary I think
As christmas is now successfully dealt with and there are no garages open to sort out the massive exhaust leak on my 325 Touring, back to more important stuff. I finally started the installation of the brake lines.
Some sort of clip will be needed to hold the line from the caliper to the bulkhead onto the top wishbone but the problem is that on full lock, the line straightens out. will worry about this another day
Operated by: Kinetic Melbourne Doncaster
Built in: 07-2019
Manufacturer: Gemilang Australia
Model: Standard City Bus
(Chassis): Scania K310UB
Notes: ex-TransDev 1127
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1127 off-duty on Lonsdale St in the Melbourne CBD
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