With the baffle plate out it confirmed that there was still a lot of muck inside

팥빙수 in 405 kitchen((식미투 찹쌀떡 두개)) posted by kkoDAE

The crank pulley / balancer / timing wheel thingy has been de-rusted, painted up and reinstalled with fresh shiny bolts.

Hopefully the paint won't interfere with the crank position sensor sending the right info.

The wheel was generally in good condition but I had to grind out a lot of rust from the inside of the pulley part. I may have to get it rebalanced at some point because of this

Operated by: Kinetic Melbourne

Built in: 12-2018

Manufacturer: Gemilang

Model: Articulated City Bus

(Chassis): Scania K360UA

Notes: ex-TransDev

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K/NET/C 181 on the 907 to City via Freeway

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Please do not use this image without first asking for permission. Thank you.

Finally tackled the rear hub collar nuts.

My 36mm socket arrived last week which turned out to be too big even though that's the correct size given the thread. then I found out it's actually a 30mm nut so I bought the right socket yesterday only to find out that the hex layout wouldn't fit so finally managed to borrow a socket with splines inside. I only had a 450mm breaker bar with the 1/2" drive needed so after a bit of sweating, swearing and developing a pounding headache, I managed to undo them

Taken with KitCam. kitc.am

SONY DSC

The sharpest dressed man in Pyongyang

removing the lower bush that the bottom of the hub assemble sits on. this took a lot more effort to come out. I thought I was just trying to get the rubber and central tube out but it as actually the entire outer metal casing too. the metal finally let go with a loud crack and it was easy from that point

Taken with KitCam. kitc.am

Operated by: SkyBus Melbourne - powered by Kinetic

Built in: 08-2016

Manufacturer: BusTech

Model: CDi

(Chassis): BusTech - Cummins ISL

Notes:

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Upper-deck interior view, just before it started to fill up with other passengers.

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Please do not use this image without first asking for permission. Thank you.

Rear ARB test fitted. I've not used nylocs yet as it will probably need to come off a few times, especially as I think I've bolted the rear spring seats in slightly the wrong place.

Waiting on my new powerflex arb bushes too

The shiny bits on the bar are where I ground off the rust and hammerited

the old bush parts. pretty nasty

Molto turistico e molto kitch. La base musicale rigorosamente su CD.

Drop link clamps de-rusted and painted up. Also wire brushed the oxide from the drop links themselves and lacquered which should keep them looking shiny

Operated by: Kinetic Melbourne

Built in: 06-2023

Manufacturer: Volgren

Model: Optimus (EV)

(Chassis): BYD D9RA

Notes:

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3017 on route 216 to City at Spencer and LaTrobe

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perished rubber of the trailing arm mount

Basic set of MK8 flying goggles. I had to drill holes in the frames as they started misting up on me with in 10 seconds. The angle in the lenses surprisingly has no impact on visibility, you hardly notice that the line is there.

shot through the hole in the rear hub with the drive shaft removed

1968 built-in toaster in island

For some unknown reason the steering column is attached to the frame with shear bolts so you can't undo them. Rather than try and get a dremel in there while still in the car I figured it would be easier to sort out on the bench

[Edit 23-02-2011] after trying unsuccessfully to cut a groove with a dremel in the heads of the bolts to undo them with a screwdriver I managed to sort these bolts out by taking out those black washers with a chisel. they are actually just very brittle plastic and once out you can etap the frame off the column with a hammer

Managed to get the steering column out today. Took the entire frame with it as I'd also removed the dashboard so it was easier this way

Taken with KitCam. kitc.am

the result of efforts to remove the rear trailing arm bolt. Probably shouldn't have used a wobble bar as an extension. Mind you I'm surprised this is the first tool I've broken so far.

The properly destroyed old bushing

The inboard bolt on the N/S trailing arm came out easily but the outer one is having none of it. I've applied heat, WD40 and was putting so much torque on the breaker bar that the car body was starting to rock the axle stands so I daren't try any harder. I've given it another soaking with WD so maybe it will be doable tomorrow.

I may drop the whole body to the ground at the front and lower right down at the back so I can put maximum power into the bar without a car landing on me

Operated by: SkyBus Melbourne - Powered by Kinetic

Built in: 04-2014

Manufacturer: Volgren

Model: CR228L Articulated

(Chassis): MAN 28.360

Notes:

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Staff Carpark shuttle

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Please do not use this image without first asking for permission. Thank you.

The top nut, washer and bolt were just done up nice and tight in lieu of any helpful figures in either bentley or haynes.

The bottom of the link slipped on nicely with a little silicone spray