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the casual coat is now lined. the lining is hand stitched into the coat using the slip stitch www.youtube.com/watch?v=sWlE_-mS1-M the lining is meant to be loose so that when worn it doesn't pull the coat in all directions. it's my first attempt to line a garment. in the main i followed this you tube video www.youtube.com/watch?v=G4iNiib0_TA
there should be more of an overhang/looseness of the lining at the hem at the bottom but it's ok when i wear the coat it sits properly and there is no movement
day one:
i cut out the lining fabric for front, back, sleeves and pockets. adjustments had to be made to the front pattern piece because i was lining a coat that had already been made flic.kr/p/2pS8bpA. (see video www.youtube.com/watch?v=G4iNiib0_TA 6 mins 30 secs)
day two:
all the pieces were pinned, tacked, assembled, placed inside the coat, and modelled all to make sure i knew what i was doing and happy with the fit
day three:
the tacking was undone, the coat lining reassembled, each stage pinned, tacked and finally stitched using the sewing machine (stages: positioning and stitching the pockets onto the side seams, joining front and back at the shoulder seam, setting the sleeves www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nqo-SIy8MXY&t=178s , joining front and back along the seams from cuff to hem)
day four:
the machine stitched assembled lining was put in the coat, pinned, tacked and modelled to make sure all was ok. the sleeves were checked to make sure not twisted
day five:
the coat lining was hand stitched into the coat by slip stitching
day six:
the hand stitching was completed, fitting was done and the coat ironed
the test is will i wear it? yep. i'll be wearing this casual coat but only in my garden to check the plants on a cold day, not when i go out. i've assembled it ok but i don't like the fabric. it wasn't a good choice. i learnt a lot and will put it down to experience :)
winter coat pattern instructions (now to be a spring/autumn coat) www.sewmag.co.uk/free-sewing-patterns/serena-wool-coat#lo...
spring/autumn coat without the lining flic.kr/p/2pS8bpA
setting the sleeve www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nqo-SIy8MXY&t=178s
How to properly sew a shawl collar jacket/sewing techniques for beginners www.youtube.com/watch?v=DjeqgIfSt9c
Easy Way To Sewing shawl collar | Coat Collar Tutorial Cutting and Stitching | Sewing Tutorial www.youtube.com/watch?v=dsUZjA9JErI
Sewing a coat/jacket lining
www.youtube.com/watch?v=ils6xkQu2nI
Adding a Lining to an Unlined Coat Sew Along
www.youtube.com/watch?v=G4iNiib0_TA
How to Sew Jacket Lining
www.wikihow.com/Sew-Jacket-Lining
How to sew a blind hem
www.youtube.com/watch?v=X9yx9GZ7pBE
hand sewing slip stitch for lining www.youtube.com/watch?v=sWlE_-mS1-M
coatigan (spring coat) www.sewmag.co.uk/templates/sew-139-august-20-shauna-coatigan i didn't complete this coat. i made several prototypes but found the instructions for the collar impossible to interpret
coatigan prototype flic.kr/p/2pNdB4v
How To Construct the Hand-Tailored Undercollar: Part 1. www.youtube.com/watch?v=emB9vjeX-xk
Jacket: Undercollar
www.youtube.com/watch?v=MyEW3fATn0w
HOW TO SEW A LAPEL COLLAR | LAPEL SEWING | SEWING TUTORIAL PT. 2 | LA MODÉLISTE
www.youtube.com/watch?v=E1TEvxgmVf0
How to cut and sew a shawl jacket in 10 minutes
www.youtube.com/watch?v=U8qNI0vsO2E
Jacket Collar Pattern Cutting _ How to draft and cut Front, Facing, Top Collar, Under Collar
www.youtube.com/watch?v=VfqZS-0bs3o
Making a jacket part 15: Collar
www.youtube.com/watch?v=u87fxFIHL_g
Making a jacket part 17: Attaching the under-collar
www.youtube.com/watch?v=5LCMEpdlBEs
Making a jacket part 18: Attaching the top collar
www.youtube.com/watch?v=XIoht_RWAuw
I Made a Coat! Sew My First DIY Coat with Me!
www.youtube.com/watch?v=naaUpWn7hXE
Sewing a WOOL COAT | In-depth winter coat tutorial
www.youtube.com/watch?v=vRjXbKOBYlY
Sew Better COATS: 10 tips for sewing success
www.youtube.com/watch?v=pAKfU4_sFPQ
L30: How To Make A Felt Under-Collar - Traditional Model | Online Coat Making Course
www.youtube.com/watch?v=C4F5SJWMRQg
How to sew a bespoke under Collar & 2 piece Top collar..Savile Row Tailor"Lee Marsh"
www.youtube.com/watch?v=2mp6IgDX5vo
How to sew a coat | Sophie coat sewing tutorial + pattern
www.youtube.com/watch?v=g0MJZaVk1Lo&t=742s
How to sew a coat | Erica coat sewing tutorial + pattern
www.youtube.com/watch?v=iLFaQ4ese28&t=104s
How to Make Sewing Pattern Bigger or Smaller // Simple Pattern Grading
www.youtube.com/watch?v=kxf4o8seRyI
Top and Dress
Detailed Sewing Tutorial For A Beginner : Simple Linen Top, Bias Binding Neckline【Free Pattern】
www.youtube.com/watch?v=5cFiT8UcU54
Download the Pattern
www.madebysachi.com/2021/09/27/super-simple-top/
LINEN DRESS DIY【Free Pattern +Easy Draft】Step by Step Guide for Beginner /back opening /Skirt Pleats
www.youtube.com/watch?v=iDFRlF_yEtA&t=0s
Download the Pattern
www.madebysachi.com/2021/09/27/super-simple-top/
BASIC SEAM POCKET
www.madebysachi.com/2022/07/09/basic-seam-pocket/
my sewing machine JL220 flic.kr/p/2odruLA from john lewis www.johnlewis.com/john-lewis-jl220-sewing-machine-pepperm...
You Tube Tutorials
Sewing Machine
How to Use your SEWING MACHINE (for Beginners)
www.youtube.com/watch?v=jmaZBTMzkoY
A Beginners' Guide To Using Your Sewing Machine
www.youtube.com/watch?v=imryOl_LNaw
Beginners Sewing Course - Day 1 - The Basics
www.youtube.com/watch?v=IGITrkYdjJs
Seam Finishes
10 SEAM FINISHES Without a Serger || Basic to Couture
www.youtube.com/watch?v=GYt7JxC_bIc&t=596s
French Seam Pockets
How to Add Pockets to a Side Seam using French Seams
www.youtube.com/watch?v=aatWJL_aAYY
Buttonholes
3 Sewing Tips to Make Buttonholes Neatly and Quickly
www.youtube.com/watch?v=6oOz28Ybk8I
How to Machine-Sew and Custom-sized Buttonhole
www.youtube.com/watch?v=A6P-TKK3tjg&t=135s
Place and Sew Hooks and Eyes Correctly
www.youtube.com/watch?v=_d06GhQx_Wg
How to Fix a Low Neckline
www.youtube.com/watch?v=3U-W6W5fh-4
Interfacing
How to fuse iron-on interfacing to fabric
www.youtube.com/watch?v=7idVbAkUBTU
dressmaking is my new hobby. posting photos of progress to encourage myself to continue. i enjoy it very much but when i started a few months ago it got a bit much with so much to learn and came to a halt. i've had a break, regrouped and am up and running again :) i'm not making any recommendations but thank goodness for you tube ...
I shall let you all ponder for 24 hours before explaining what we have here .
Well it is over 24 hours and an explanation is required .
What you see is what is known as a " water separator " and it is indeed found on the back of a dry cleaning machine . In dry cleaning the solvent ( perchloroethylene ) is used over and over again and is constantly filtered plus it is distilled to remove all the muck and grunge ( and that is a messy job raking out the still !!! ) . In distilling the solvent is boiled and the vapour drawn off and condensed to recover the pure solvent , however there will be some water within the condense and perc and water do not mix and indeed you do not want excessive water in the cleaning process . Thus the condensed liquids flow back through the water separator with the solvent being the heavier liquid filling the bottom half and the water floating on the top of the solvent . The interface of the two liquids often has a build up of matter and this is what you are looking at here through a glass sight glass . As I no longer work in dry cleaning this shot was taken at a colleagues shop when I popped in for some haberdashery for my wife - and of course a natter .
As a note , environmental regulations dictate that for every litre of solvent used you will be expected to clean a minimum of 80 kilos of work !
Diese und noch einige mehr Skulpturen stehen im Garten der Heerser Mühle in Bad Salzuflen. Etwas creepy, aber beeindruckend!
Interface, an installation by Frank Straatman ( in cooperation with Wia van Dijk), 2017-2018. On display at Beeldentuin / Sculpture Garden Landgoed Anningahof, Zwolle, Holland.
Artoo has always been known to stick his thing into other machines, but this time it was Threepio's turn.
Viewed from the Cave Loop Recreational Trail in Kasha-Katuwe Tent Rocks National Monument, north central New Mexico
Hres triptych published in
. Y Sin Embargo Magazine 22 - cap it all/off
___________________________________
Outlining a Theory of General Creativity . .
. . on a 'Pataphysical projectory
Entropy ≥ Memory ● Creativity ²
___________________________________
The mecanosphere draws out and actualises configurations which exist amongst an infinity of others in fields of virtuality. Existential machines are at the same level as being in its intrinsic multiplicity. (...) They are to themselves their own material of semiotic expression. Existence, as a deterritorialisation process, is a specific inter-machinic operation which superimposes itself on the promotion of singularised existential intensities. (...) Existence is not dialectical, not representable. It is hardly livable!
(...) The machines of desire, the machines of aesthetic creation, just as scientific machines constantly modify our cosmic frontiers. As such, they hold an eminent place within assemblages of subjectivation, themselves called to relieve our old social machines which are incapable of keeping up the efflorescence of machinic revolutions that shatter our epoch from all sides. Rather than adopting a reticent attitude with respect to the immense machinic revolution sweeping the planet (at the risk of destroying it) or of clinging traditional value systems, pretending to re-establish transcendence, the movement of progress, or if one prefers, the movement of process, will endeavour to reconcile values and machines.
(...) The machinic systems position themselves in a rhizome of interdependence, situating each actual machinic stasis at the conjunction of a passed filiation and a Phylum of future mutations. All value systems - religious, aesthetic, scientific, ecosophical, ... - install themselves at this machinic interface between the required actualised and the virtual possibilist. (...) Thus a double enunciation: finite, territorialised and incorporeal, infinite.
(...) To the sterile opposition between use-value and exchange-value will here be relinquished in favour of an axiological complexion including all machinic modalities of valorisation: the values of desire, aesthetic values, ecological values, economic values, etc. (...) Economic law, like juridical law, must be deducted from the ensemble of Universes of value, for whose collapse it continually strives. Its reconstruction, on the scaterred debris of planned economies and neoliberalism and according to new ethico-political finalities (ecosophy) calls for, in contradistinction, an untiring renewal of the consistency of machinic assemblages of valorisation.
( Félix Guattari - Chaosmosis - 1992 )
___________________________________
rectO-persO | E ≥ m.C² | co~errAnce | TiLt
The is the intersection of two walls on an office building at 199 S. Los Robles in Pasadena. The building was pretty boring overall, but from this perspective it was pretty cool.
Here's the street view. I was on my bicycle when I took the shot above and positioned myself right in the cleft of the first "V" closest to the sidewalk.
In the dark of the night when it's just you and your subject and you move in for the close up...
you wonder what they're thinking.
front of the hat inside out showing the white, lightweight interfacing before the lining was attached flic.kr/p/2qsLKcf
the wool hat fits and it's wearable, thank goodness :) i'll wear it with one of the coats or boxy jacket when the weather's cold. will definitely make some more hats. i was greatly helped by the you tube tutorials particularly the 'baker boy/newsboy cap sewing tutorial' www.youtube.com/watch?v=6gcCdJP64WE&list=PLhaf82yGltt...
blue wool fabric leftover from previous projects
both calico and lining fabrics were leftover from previous projects
lightweight interfacing 1m x 1m 50cm cost £2
white thread leftover from previous projects
button chosen from some odd buttons in the button box
gutermann blue thread 1000m cost £10 plenty remaining for other projects
elastic 1m @ £1.50 used 30cm to give a tight fit on the headband
Baker boy / newsboy cap sewing tutorial
www.youtube.com/watch?v=6gcCdJP64WE&list=PLhaf82yGltt...
How to sew a woman's beret with a visor
www.youtube.com/watch?v=EEqkTs1r8Rs
Peaky Blinders Style _Shelby Cap
www.youtube.com/watch?v=PesNwRqgjo4
parts of a hat
www.totallypromotional.com/blog/parts-of-a-hat/
my sewing machine JL220 flic.kr/p/2odruLA from john lewis www.johnlewis.com/john-lewis-jl220-sewing-machine-pepperm...
sewing machine maintenance flic.kr/p/2q9GVTh
How to Use your SEWING MACHINE (for Beginners)
www.youtube.com/watch?v=jmaZBTMzkoY
A Beginners' Guide To Using Your Sewing Machine
www.youtube.com/watch?v=imryOl_LNaw
Beginners Sewing Course - Day 1 - The Basics
www.youtube.com/watch?v=IGITrkYdjJs
Seam Finishes
10 SEAM FINISHES Without a Serger || Basic to Couture
www.youtube.com/watch?v=GYt7JxC_bIc&t=596s
7 Seam Types and How to Make it- Sewing Lesson for Beginner
www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ax6JDDP_6O8
French Seam Pockets
How to Add Pockets to a Side Seam using French Seams
www.youtube.com/watch?v=aatWJL_aAYY
Lining
How to add lining to ANY dress pattern | Sewing Tutorial
www.youtube.com/watch?v=ENKI3fSBQBo
How To Sew a Slip Stitch by Hand
www.youtube.com/watch?v=pjky55Cp1_I
Buttonholes
3 Sewing Tips to Make Buttonholes Neatly and Quickly
www.youtube.com/watch?v=6oOz28Ybk8I
How to Machine-Sew and Custom-sized Buttonhole
www.youtube.com/watch?v=A6P-TKK3tjg&t=135s
Place and Sew Hooks and Eyes Correctly
www.youtube.com/watch?v=_d06GhQx_Wg
How to Fix a Low Neckline
www.youtube.com/watch?v=3U-W6W5fh-4
Interfacing
How to fuse iron-on interfacing to fabric
www.youtube.com/watch?v=7idVbAkUBTU
reference books
i'm a complete beginner at dressmaking. posting photos of progress to encourage myself to continue. no recommendations being made www.flickr.com/photos/connect2012/albums/72177720305370633/
"Not the power to remember, but its very opposite, the power to forget, is a necessary condition for our existence."
– Sholem Asch, "The Nazarene", 1939, p. 3.
"They constantly try to escape
From the darkness outside and within
By dreaming of systems so perfect that no one will need to be good."
– T. S. Eliot, "The Rock".