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I recently got this camera and since then I've been playing with it day and night. I think my dog is a lil jealous, lol.
Sorry I'm so behind guys :(
Taken for Item Collaboration group.
Canon EOS 1000F (1991)
35mm focal-plane shutter multi-mode AF SLR camera
EF lens mount
AF System: TTL phase detection. AF modes: One-Shot AF and predictive AI Servo AF. AF operating range at ISO 100: EV 1 - 18.
Vertical-travel, focal-plane electronic shutter. 30 sec. - 1/1000 sec., B. X-sync at 1/90 sec. (hot shoe). Built-in electronic self-timer (with beeper).
Fixed eye-level pentaprism viewfinder 0.75x magnification and 90% coverage.
Viewfinder Information: AF mark, in-focus indicator, partial metering circle, depth-of-field AE, shutter speed, aperture setting, flash on/ready, and other indications.
Metering and Exposure Contro:Composite SPC for TTL full-aperture metering (3-zone evaluative or 9.5% partial at center) with shutter speed-priority AE, aperture-priority AE, Intelligent program AE, depth-of-field AE, 4 program AE modes, match-needle manual. Exposure compensation range of ±2 EV (in 1/2-stop increments). AE lock enabled. Metering range at ISO 100 and f/1.4: EV 2 - 20. Film speed range: ISO 6 to 6400.
External LCD info: Shutter speed, aperture setting, film speed, film-loaded indicator, frame counter, multiple-exposure count, exposure level, depth-of-field AE, and other indications.
Built-in Flash: Located on pentaprism hump. Manual pop-up head. TTL autoflash control with off-the-film metering. Guide No. 12 (at ISO 100 in m).
Power Source: One 6 V 2CR5 lithium battery
Film Loading and Advance: Align film leader at mark, then close the camera back for prewind loading. First, the entire roll is wound on the take-up spool. Then each time a picture is taken, the film advances back into the cartridge. Film transport with the built-in motor. Film advance speed: 1 fps.
Film Rewind: After the last frame is exposed, the film is rewound automatically.
Dimensions and Weight: 148 x 100 x 69 mm, 500 g (with battery)
EF 35-80mm f/4-5.6 zoom lens
I invite you to visit my blog at Classic Cameras
Also you to them , Been an inpatient in York Hospital for over a week now , Having Flickr keeps me at least a bit more active thank you to everyone
After WWII, the Contax camera factory in Dresden had been destroyed, and in any case it was in Soviet occupied territory. A number of ZI staff relocated to the west and settled in Stuttgart in the American zone where they developed an all new camera to replace the II and III. The IIa came out in 1951, smaller, quieter, slicker handling and better finished than the original. It had some design weaknesses, however, which it does not share with the prewar Contax: rangefinder misalignment and shutter problems at both the fast and slow ends of the scale are common. The West German lenses were made in a new plant in Oberkochen, and they were generally much improved except for separation problems which appeared as a result of the use of new and unproven optical cements. This one has a Zeiss-Opton f/1.5 Sonnar with no such problems, and it's a really excellent lens.
There’s more Contax stuff in my free Tech Notes download; see the Camera Repair album for the download link.
Made the jump with a brand-new MacBook Pro (2.53 ghz, 4 gb ram, 320 HD) my first personally owned Mac :). Using Synergy to hook up my Logitech keyboard/mouse to both PC and Mac.
Nikon new D810: the world's sharpest DSLR, launched in July 2014 (36 MPix, ISO 32-64-12800-51200, 5 fps - up to 7 fps).
Newark, NY. August 2017.
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Electronics, and pretty much the entire area of the store comprising "electro-pli-mattresses" (Ha, love that - kudos to Albertsons Florida Blog for coming up with that one!) was empty, save for a few stray mattresses that I believe I have uploaded a photo of in the past.
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Kmart, 1979-80 built, Caraway Rd. at E. Highland Dr., Jonesboro AR
The main board from an Ensoniq Fizmo synth.
The voltage regulator (far left edge of board and nestled between the two sides of the heatsink and labelled LM2940T) is one of the types that goes bad and sends too much power to the rest of the board. It's rated for 1A but when it goes out it draw more than that.
I'm replacing it with a brand new MC7805CT which is a LDO (low-dropout option) 5V rated for 1.5A, and going to use a new external power adapter (wall wart) which is 1.3A.
A cased version of the Vibrati Punk Console:
Optimized for studio and performance with line-out and pulse control.
1973 Even today, one of the best tuner. The complex structure of the Pioneer electronics is fantastic. Difficult to get a TX-9100 today.
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Noch heute einer der besten Tuner. Der aufwendige Aufbau feinster Baulemente ist fantastisch. Es bleibt schwierig einen Pioneer TX-9100 heute zu bekommen.
Ensaio boudoir. Conheça mais o trabalho em 500px.com/leonardobenevenuto Outros tipos de trabalhos em www.leonardobenevenuto.com
Fabriqué par Voigtlander en Allemagne en 1939, ce fut le seul box de cette marque.Il utilise du film 120.
Seen Here: The PCB out of the bag! (Torch see-through vision!)
So, today my PCB for the LED matrix arrived from BatchPCB! For what I paid, the PCB arrived fairly quickly - I ordered it on the 15/02 I believe, and it arrived 11/03 -- 26 days, which is pretty good (they state 19 business days).
The quality is very, very impressive - far better than anything I could pull off at home. The silkscreen and soldermask makes it look really nice, too.
Soldering it was a joy, although there was a LOT to solder and it's all surface mounted.
I had a few problems at first; it wasn't lighting the matrix at all properly but I soon realised with my new design (transistors on the cathodes) I have to write the transistors HIGH to get a LOW on the cathode, so a quick line of code changed to get that working.
Then for some reason the top half of every letter was flipped. It turns out this was my fault: I messed up when making the package for the LED matrix in Eagle, swapping the matrix's 5th cathode for my system's 8th, 6th for 7th, 7th for 6th and 8th for 5th. This was fairly easy to fix in code, however.
Finally USB isn't working to program or communicate, but I can configure the FT232RL chip (after all, it's sending the clock pulse that's driving my ATmega168). I think I have an idea of what's causing this, but I'm not sure yet.
Treated Myself to a lil gift today. have a feeling that 50mm wont be coming off my camera much. Now just to find some partially photogenic subjects.
8/15/2013 Mike Orazzi | Staff
The solar array on top of the ESPN's North Campus building in Bristol. ** for a Steve story **
Video here: www.youtube.com/watch?v=uvQORkbMI90&feature=share&...
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I committed heresy and added a Nikon AR-9 soft release to this Oly 35 SP, but for me at least it considerably improved the feel of the shutter.
I'd like to think Roger Moore owned one of these, it's a handsome beast. This one didn't quite live up to my expectations though :( Mechanically, the shutter fires at all speeds and the aperture changes correctly in manual mode.
However.
The lens fairies have taken a satanic shit all over the rear element with dust and slight fungi round the very edges, the front element has been cleaned with sand paper and mud. Arse holes! I'm tempted to clean the rear element if I can get it apart and shoot a roll through it, failing that, it would make a good donner to some one elses project.
www.camerapedia.org/wiki/Canonet_QL_19
www.canon.com/camera-museum/camera/film/data/1956-1965/19...
© 2011 Eric Adeleye Photography. (Press "L" for a larger view of the photograph)
This how I normally setup my camera when I'm taking close up shots of people. For the purpose of showing you exactly how my camera was setup, I had to mount it on my Manfrotto 055PROXB tripod using a Manfrotto 026 Swivel Adapter in lieu of an actual tripod head mount (I haven't picked up one yet because the one I want costs around $180). I used the Nikon AF-S DX Nikkor 35mm f/1.8G lens to take the shot. My flash is mounted on a Newton Bracket which allows me to rotate my camera vertically without having to change the position of the flash. Attached to the flash hot shoe of the camera is a Zeikos ZE-OCSCN Off Camera Shoe Cord for Nikon Flash. The Nikon flash cord costs $68 on Amazon while the Zeikos that I use only costs $14. So if you need a dependable flash cord, pick up the Zeikos and save some money. The reason I use the flash cord is because of the inconsistency of using Nikon CLS to trigger my SB-700 flash when in this configuration. At first I was using the SB-700 with the Newtwon Bracket and Nikon CLS to trigger it but I experienced misfires. The SB-700 is in TTL mode with the diffuser dome on. I have a Rouge Flashbender wrapped around the top of the SB-700 using it as a big bounce surface which works very well. I got the idea to use the Flashbender in this manner from watching a Kelby Training video about using a flash to light a group of people. As you can see, this setup works like a charm, it produce a very nice even light and lights up the shot just right without causing any real hot spots. For the Day 098/365 shot, my camera was in Manual mode, IS0 100, Aperture f/1.8, Shutter 1/125sec. I shot wide open at f/1.8 so that I could blow the background out with bokeh.
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