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This papercraft is a simple Olympus OM-D E-M10 Mark II, a digital mirrorless system camera announced by Olympus Corporation, the paper model is created by Olympus Corporation.

You can download this paper model template here: Olympus OM-D E-M10 Mark II Digital Camera Free Papercraft Download

  

www.papercraftsquare.com/olympus-om-d-e-m10-mark-ii-digit...

Hasselblad 503CX and Schneider-Kreuznnach Variogon 140-280mm f5.6

 

Portfolio/Blog | Tumblr | Twitter

Sunset Electronic

Finally have my own Hasselblad 500CM. Soooo pumped to use this on the regular. The 5D2 is now going on the back burner.

Agfa Isolette II - Folding au format 120

 

Pays de fabrication : Allemagne 1950-1960

L'objectif est un Apotar 4,5/85 mm (N° 053281 ) et l'obturateur un Pronto de 1/25 sec au 1/200ème + B

Cote « photographica-world.de » : 25-40 euros

Achetée sur EBay : février 2015

“In a while, one of us will go up to bed

and the other one will follow.

Then we will slip below the surface of the night

into miles of water, drifting down and down

to the dark, soundless bottom

until the weight of dreams pulls us lower still.”

 

~ William Collins

 

glow in the dark clock

 

1960 Zorki 4 with Jupiter-8 pose for some more Sunday morning camera porn. I just disassembled and cleaned/relubed the Jupiter which now focuses like buttuh.

Check out pictures taken with this camera

 

I've been having a blast with my Yashica Mat 124G at the point I decided to get a few more Yashica TLRs. These can be find for very cheap... well sometimes.

I got this Mat EM you see here, an older Yashica-D and a Yashica Mat.

 

The Yashica Mat EM is a beautiful looking TLR, and even considering it to be older than the 124G, the build quality is much better. There are plenty of metal all over, comparing with the plastic of the 124G. It looses the coupled meter and 220 film option but since most people -like myself- use an external meter anyway and 220 film is not very popular, these are not real issues. The rest of the specs are pretty much the same, including the fantastic Yashinon 80mm f/3.5 lens.

 

This camera came as pristine as you see on the picture, but the shutter and self timer were stuck and non-working. I sent it to repair to the famous Yashica guy Mark Hama. He did a superb job restoring this camera, and it looks and works as new.

 

If you are looking for a vintage camera, don't worry about if it works or not, worry about the cosmetic conditions. Almost 99,99% of the time broken cameras can be fixed, sometimes for very cheap, but you can't never fix cosmetic issues.

Thank you very much for the 8000+ views !!!

Asheville, NC. May 2017.

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If you would like to use THIS picture in any sort of media elsewhere (such as newspaper or article), please send me a Flickrmail or send me an email at natehenderson6@gmail.com

Nikon FE2

Nikkor 50mm f1.4

FUJICOLOR SUPERIA X-TRA400

OS: Ubuntu Linux GNU

Software: digiKam

Camera: Nikon D80

Lens: Nikkor 50/1.8D

L-Prakticas are simple, all-mechanical M42 screwmount cameras that were produced in vast numbers (a total of almost 9 million cameras for all models) in East Germany. The EE2 and EE3 models are based on the L-series but are also radically different, as the shutter is electronic, offering aperture-priority autoexposure and manual mode. The shutter (vertical, metal) is stepless in auto mode (1-1/1000s) and speeds range from 1/30 to 1/1000s in manual mode. The shutter is totally battery-dependent (the camera uses a rare PX-21 4.5V cell) and without battery the camera is simply dead, the shutter does not open at all.

 

The EE cameras offer open-aperture metering with the "electric" line of Zeiss and Pentacon lenses (the usual kit lens was the 1.8/50 Pancolar). Other M42 lenses need to be stopped down for correct metering. ASA range goes up to 1600 and there is an exposure compensation (+2 to -2) switch. The camera is equipped with viewfinder blinds to avoid stray light during long exposures and a battery check switch is available.

 

The camera unmistakably derives its design from the L-series, but it feels heavier (perhaps due to more electronics), the prism housing is wider and the leatherette is thicker, providing better grip. Overall feel is a bit improved over the L-Prakticas, including fit, finish and action of the various dials and buttons. Film advance and shutter release are typical Praktica though, as is the average viewfinder. Luckily, mine came with a forgotten but still working battery and everything seems to work, although the meter behaves as if in spot mode with non-electric lenses attached. A very nice camera overall, surely the pride of Pentacon when it was released, its major drawback being the rare and expensive battery, although alternatives exist, if one feels creative!

Explore #118 on May 16th, 2008

Nikon F2 - the one analog camera that I didn't give away. It's a keeper, even though I won't turn back to film.

 

Strobist info: Black velvet underneath and behind.

- Metz AF 48 N with Polaroid 10" softbox strapped on from the right

- Metz AF 48 N from top rear, set to 24mm lightcone

- Yongnuo 622N trigger and receivers

 

#Photopaddler

CC -by -nd

Credit card.

Carte di credito e tastiera

This is my camera collection

The recording and playback circuitry of a Revox G36 Mark III reel-to-reel tape deck, with all but one tube (valve) in a neat row, slider-ized.

Flexilette.

More info. Ref: D1415-2925

Schneider Kreuznach Xenar 50mm f:2.8 -

It is a new year, it is January... :o)

 

.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.-.

 

Es un nuevo año, es Enero... :o)

I have lots of different home-made plexiglass shapes but always seem to be drawn to the plain rectangular shape or the hoop. I have been taking a couple of small shapes out with me recently as they fit in with all my other gear but have not been inspired to paint with them as I find it takes a lot of concentration and time to create something I'm happy with. So drawing on inspiration from my LP friends, I set up my trusty circuit board and fixed the small "flame" plexi shape to a wheel attached to a tripod and using the Ryu's Lightworks V2 torch and my SonyA7iii mounted on a rotation gimbal, I rotated the flashing blade and capped between each of the 8 points of rotation using a Samyang 14mm lens. This had been preceded by a shot of the circuit board using a Minolta MD 50mm f1.7 with macro extension tubes, then lens capped and swapped mid-exposure for the Samyang. Chuffed at the 1 successful attempt. Packed up and a cup of tea.

PDS-02140

I didn’t know that I had this one in my collection until my good friend Christos posted a picture of his Canonet 17, 2nd generation. I have quite a few Canonets from this generation and wrongly assumed that they were all the 19 models. They are so discrete or blandly designed that even I fail to see the differences between them. From the 19 models, to the E model, they all look the same. Perhaps this anonymity was also what helped them to sell in a phenomenal way. The emphasis was put on quality, not on frills, from the build to the lenses, it’s very difficult to pinpoint a weakness in a second generation Canonet. The camera feels very well built and it conveys the message that you are buying a Canon 7 sister, so no need for outrageous designs.

  

I confess that I am not that attracted to Canonets, perhaps it’s the styling, perhaps it’s the size, possibly it’s the availability of two Canon LTM bodies that provokes that indifference. Still, this Canonet, as modest and lowly as it might be compared to its posher sisters is a fine camera, not designed to challenge Leica, but to capture those family moments in the simplest and sharpest possible way.

Zeiss Ikon Contessa Folding Camera (1950-1955)

Zeiss Ikon AG., Stuttgart

This lens conversion was a total giant bitch.

 

I was intending to do a write up on how I did it but I made so many mistakes that it woulda been a "what not to do" guide.

 

I essentially followed Georg P.'s guide: took off the old manual focus SR mount and mount spacer and subsituted the chipped M42=>α mount adapter, with holes i had to drill myself (mistakes there), and also countersunk holes (more mistakes) along with self created mount spacers (a few trial and errors). The spacers, shown above in blue, are actually 6 plastic disposable plates (bought from local loblaw grocery store for about 10 for $4). They were thin enough to cut in a customized shape (circles with a doughnut hole in the middle), hopefully durable as well. However, since there were so many layers, they didn't necessarily fit perfectly (wrinkles when compressed with the mount screws). Ohwell, it works for now (2 weeks later, no probs)

 

I think I read that it only takes about 45 minutes to convert. I wasn't racing, but it took me all night to. I misaligned the drill holes, I didn't know what sized drill bit to countersink the screws with and I misaligned the aperature ring link.

 

Thanks to Arkku, Georg P, and Mr. Hotwire for guidance and Canadian Tire and Home Depot for their precision screw drivers, table top drill presses and generous return policies.

 

A magic collection of old radios from the 1920s to the 1960s.

Well worth a visit. Just check when they are open before calling.

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