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I have created a short tutorial since I get questions on how I process my images. It does however require that you are familiar with how layers work in Photoshop. You do also need to have Photomatix and Photoshop in order to follow the tutorial.
Note that the tutorial still is in beta, and the steps are published in reversed order :(
The tutorial can be found at:
http://vivid-pixels.blogspot.com/
Kaj
Feito baseado no tutorial encontrado em:
É super fácil! Se alguém tiver dúvidas é só perguntar, ok?
Beijos!
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UPDATE com maiores explicações:
É fácil.. primeiro você tem que cortar todos os quadradinhos na medida que quiser que eles fiquem no final + 2x a margem de costura. Como eu queria os meus com aproximadamente 3,5cm de lado, cortei todos os quadradinhos de 5x5cm.
Use a entretela mais fininha que tiver. Desenhe na entretela uma grade dividida em quadradinhos de 5x5cm. Coloque a entretela sobre uma toalha, com o lado da cola virado pra cima. Distribua os quadradinhos por cima da entretela com o direito pra cima, como quiser que eles fiquem no final, seguindo a grade desenhada. Agora, com o ferro de passar, cole os quadradinhos na entretela. Faça somente movimentos de pressão com o ferro, para os quadradinhos não saírem no lugar.
Agora você tem todos os quadradinhos colados, certo? Então é só dobrar a entretela seguindo as linhas e colunas de quadradinhos, direito sobre direito, e costurar! Primeiro costure linha por linha, abra as costuras, bata a ferro, e depois costure coluna por coluna, abra as costuras e bata a ferro também. As costuras vão ficar totalmente alinhadas, como mágica!
Dá uma olhada nas fotos do tutorial que indiquei. Se ficar alguma dúvida, é só perguntar!
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UPDATE 2: A Edy fez um PAP fantástico baseado neste.. vejam lá no flickr dela:
www.flickr.com/photos/edy_arteira/4405431068/
Obrigada Edy!
Beijos!!
Found this little tutorial back on my laptop. I was asked to make a little tutorial last summer on how I make my models pose in my pictures. It was meant to be printed in a dollmagazine... Sadly in the end it didn´t get printed because of .... ..... whatever.... So I thought I´d share it with you guys.... Oh, and sorry for my very bad english,.. I never asked someone to correct it... lol
Learn to blend multiple exposures in Photoshop using luminosity masks.
Free luminosity mask actions - www.throughstrangelenses.com/easy-panel-download-for-phot...
Learn to create stunning images, with instantly downloadable, high quality video courses: Cityscape Tutorials & Luminosity Mask Tutorial & HDR Tutorial
Tutorial part 1: www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ct4_V6JPisU
Part 2: www.youtube.com/watch?v=_f2hur8ASW8
Part 3: www.youtube.com/watch?v=M76jqEMXGbk
part 4: www.youtube.com/watch?v=nof3P6vTWo8
Part 5: www.youtube.com/watch?v=qSWE5qepbFM
Hope you enjoy:)
any questions just comment ...
<3
não sou muito bom com tutoriais mas quando fiz essa unha resolvi ir tirando fotos. Acho que da pra entender certinho como foi feito. Uma dica que não fotografei: pra fazer os losangos eu fiz primeiro mini bolinhas pra marcar as extremidades e depois liguei e pintei pra garantir um tamanho mais padrão.
Bee's
Já tem tutorial novo no Fofurice! Mais uma Nail pra Sessão de Natal o/
To aqui num espirra espirra que só vendo, minha rinite me pegou de jeito hoje .-.
E pra completar a segunda, terceiro e último dia do vestiba da UFSC! Uma redação e mais quatro questões discursivas, FORÇÃ NA PERUCÃ BEE!
Pra conferir o post é só clicar: FOFURICE RULES ♥
Ou ir direto ao vídeo:TUTORIAL ♥
Qualquer dúvida só falar,
XOXO ♥
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@deborawernke (\_(\
This is some sort of tutorial on how I do my brick wall backgrounds. Though scrapbooking papers can give you a very realistic and easy brick background, sometimes I love to make a "real" wall with texture and color.
The wall is made out of styrofoam, the window is made of foamboard.
To deepen the lines I use first a pencil, then an exacto knife so the surface won't "break" too much.
Different sized ball tools help a lot to softly round the edges of each brick.
1º Hacemos la fornitura en alpaca , yo utilizo de 1mm , los extremos los enrollamos con alpaca de 0.4mm
2º Preparamos dos placas de fimo , pasandolas por la laminadora en la posición 7.
3º pasamos el rodillo.
4º Empezamos a presionar el alambre con ayuda de cualquier herramienta , en este caso usé un pincho de barbacoa.
5º El mismo paso de antes pero reducido jajaja , despiste xD
6º Seguimos presionando en distintos puntos.
7ºEmpezamos a recortar los bordes que sobresalen.
8º Si quereis y os resulta más comodo podeis levantar la pieza y seguir recortando.
9º Seguimos recortando , repetitiva que es una xD.
10º Pieza terminada , despues de horneada la separamos del alambre y doblamos los extremos hacia atras , ponemos pegamento en el lugar donde encaja el alambre ( yo uso Super Glue3 ) y damos forma a la anilla , terminando cada punta con una espiral.
Espero que se entienda :S es mi primer tuto y se nota xD
Design: Maria Sinayskaya
Thank you, Maria, for giving me permission to demonstrate your design!
Quick Stats:
30 Modules, Ratio 2:3, Kami or Duo Paper, NO Glue.
YouTube Tutorial: youtu.be/5HgFJKGNgjA
Article: origamitutorials.com/kimono-sonobe-kusudama-tutorial/
cachemash tutorial
by H.Manon
Cachemashing is my name for a somewhat more controlled approach to what Daniel Temkin identified as the Photoshop Truncating Glitch—an approach to image glitching that exploits a problem with early versions of Photoshop. Cachemashing is in my view a relatively pure or true form of glitching, because my control over the outcome is limited almost exclusively to the selection of input files, and to standard user-end changes to Photoshop settings. Once these decisions are made, Photoshop glitches a truncated jpeg file in ways that are difficult and at times impossible to predict. However, what makes this technique compelling is that, through practice, one may nonetheless develop and refine a personal approach, even if the final cause of the glitch remains opaque—a mystery taking place behind-the-scenes of Photoshop’s interface.
I want to preface what follows by saying that I am not a programmer. Although I am fairly savvy as a Photoshop user, my understanding of the program’s internal workings are almost nil. I'm sure if I knew more about the causes of this technique I would be less interested in it. The fun here is really in the "not knowing why."
In this tutorial I mainly describe how I arrived at the image above (a glitched “Currier and Ives” style print of a duck hunt). These specific techniques could be altered in numerous ways and still produce the effect of a cachemash.
What you need to cachemash:
1) Photoshop 6.0 or earlier. I am running Photoshop Elements 1.0, which is the Elements version that corresponds with PS 6.0. My system is Windows XP, and I know that the technique also works when Photoshop 6.0 (or PE 1.0) is installed on Vista. I have not tested this technique on any other OS.
2) A truncated jpeg file in which the point of truncation appears close to the top, resulting in a mostly “blank” image when opened in PS. Jpegs are easy to truncate using code editing programs like Notepad++. My approach is to open the jpeg in Notepad++, delete a couple of lines of data somewhere just below the file header, save, and then open in PS. You have succeeded when you open the file and receive the golden message “This document may be damaged (the file may be truncated or incomplete). Continue?” Sometimes it takes ten or so tries to successfully truncate the file, rendering it partially damaged, but not too damaged to open.
3) At least one non-truncated image file that you want to form the mashed-up content of the final image. These are the files you will load into the PS cache.
4) A computer that has sufficient speed and RAM to process the size of image you want to produce.
The procedure:
1) Open a truncated jpeg in Photoshop. The truncated file I used for the “duck hunt” cachemash is 4500 x 4822 pixels @ 300 ppi. The compression rate of the truncated file does not seem to matter. The original image content also does not seem to matter, since the truncation renders it blank.
2) The message pops up: “This document may be damaged (the file may be truncated or incomplete). Continue?” Click OK. You will see a blacked-out image, with perhaps a tiny line of color at the top (depending on how near to the top you truncated the file).
3) Now is when you can get creative, in a fascinatingly limited way. Open any file or set of files. Manipulate them as usual in PS, or not. Then close them. For the “duck hunt” image, I pre-sized a jpeg at a width of 8984 (almost but not quite twice the width of the truncated file). This is the trick to obtaining something like a “full frame” cachemash in which the cached image is fully or mostly visible in the final version.
4) Use the filter called Gaussian Blur on the truncated file. A blur radius setting of 0.1 pixels is ideal. This procedure “fixes” the mashed image, in the photographic sense of the word; it stabilizes the data which, up to now, tended to load randomly into the void space of truncated file. The result is a mash-up of certain files and parts of files that have been temporarily stored in the PS cache. (Note: I use Gaussian Blur at 0.1 because of all the possible filters, this one seems to least alter the final image, while still “fixing” it. However virtually every PS filter will "fix" a truncated file).
5) The truncated file is now cachemashed. If you like the results, save to the file format of your choice.
6) Undoing the Gaussian Blur returns the truncated file to its volatile state.
7) Redoing the Gaussian Blur will give new results each time. However (and this is what makes the technique really interesting), the more you undo and redo, the more your “fixed” images also become part of the PS cache. You might think of this as “caching the cache.” If you undo and redo fifty times, the image will be really minced up. But, if at any point you open a new non-truncated jpeg in PS, that jpeg will become part of the cache, and may appear largely in tact as a portion or layer of the mashed image.
Some other tips and observations:
1) In the process of doing and undoing, you will see that when the PS cache attempts to “fill in” the truncated image, it does so in a cycle. The length of the cache cycle is controlled by the size of the cache you elect in Preferences > Memory & Image Cache. I mostly keep cache levels set at 8 (this is max) and RAM used by PS set at 100%. Striking embroidery-like effects can be achieved by reducing RAM used by PS down to 15% or so.
2) Incorporating high contrast RGB images (color or b/w, doesn’t matter) yields brighter colors in the final “fixed” version. Low contrast images produce subtler, more muted colors.
3) Introducing Inverted (i.e. negativized) images to the cache produces interesting results, as do images to which Gradient Map has been applied.
4) It is very unusual to produce a final cachemash that is grayscale, but it sometimes happens.
5) The non-truncated sliver of the truncated file will appear as a black band at the top of the final “fixed” version. I usually crop this out, but this is the only post-processing I do. All of the other effects in images I have posted to Flickr happened prior to the moment of glitching, which I take to be the moment at which PS “fixes” the images.
6) It is possible to create the same cachemash twice. Just open the same files in the same order with the same settings on the same machine. This suggests that there is nothing random about cachemashing. At the same time, if you begin by caching an image that is even one pixel larger or smaller, the results after several cycles of do-and-undo could be radically different.
7) If you overlay the PS crop tool on top of a truncated file, and there is data in the cache, the space within the cropped area will weirdly animate. When you press “crop,” the animation will stop because the image is now fixed.
8) When the final colors you achieve are saturated reds, blues and greens, it is sometimes possible to experience the optical illusion called chromostereopsis.
I will continue to add observations on this page as they come to me.
Good luck!
HM
The second tutorial from my Micro trees series :)
List of pieces needed:
Foliage:
1x 19119
3x 4032
15x 3023
15x 29120
3x 11477
3x 3070b
Trunk (example):
1x 64644
1x 3062b
2x 85861
1x 4032
Concerning how the leaf parts are attached to the end of the stalks; there is a hole in the small column between the antistuds at the bottom of the 1x2 plates, and the stalk fits pretty well in there :)
Enjoy!
Action "Set AllEdges01 AE3" - free download
©2005-2011 AlexEdg AllEdges (www.alledges.com)
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This is some sort of tutorial on how I do my brick wall backgrounds. Though scrapbooking papers can give you a very realistic and easy brick background, sometimes I love to make a "real" wall with texture and color.
The wall is made out of styrofoam, the window is made of foamboard.
And that's how it looks with the good side facing up. The grey paint around the window frame looks a bit like old grout.
With the light shining onto the surface, I have to say, the bricks are way too shiny, still *lol*.
But overall, we're ready for a photo shoot.
I hope you had fun browsing through the pictures and maybe you'd like to try making a brick wall yourself. I'm sure, there are many, many different ways to do it and if this quick and not so detailed tutorial inspired you, please tag me - I'm curious to see other results <3!
Have a great day! Nina*
I'm sure many of you have thought of making your own apple pincushion but do not readily have a pattern. Well, now you can create all the fruity pincushions you desire by developing your very own pattern with this apple pincushion tutorial. That's right, your very own pattern, so you don't have to worry about plagiarizing another's design. Check it out.
This is the method I currently use to pierce dolls. I developed this method with trial and error throughout the years. It works for me and I hope it works for all of you. Sorry that tip 2 is so long and hard to read. Ask questions and also if there's any other tutorials that you would like for me to do just comment below.
take one premade bangle. because you wont be able to do much in the way of sanding after you have finished the bangle (pendant etc..) should be sanded to a high finished (dont bother buffing and definitely no polish)
in this case i carved a basic out line into the bangle with a scribing tool (you could also use a thick needle or even the back edge of a craft knife but the scribing tool is easier particularly for somthing like this with a curved surface)
i found with carving making a light and shallow line then deepening it with successive strokes was better than trying to create a deeply carved line in one stroke. particularly where accuracy is an issue
once you have carved your design take some well condition and softened clay (in this case i used black) using the back of a craft knife push the clay into the grooves and lines of the carving (think grouting tiles)
remove excess clay.
(here you can see the carved and filled outline of the ammonite and the section i have started to 'fill in'...i'l get to that in a moment)
So decided to write a 2 part tutorial about how I go from taking one of my LEGO builds and cleaning it up and post-editing it for online posting.
You can find the articles below:
Time for a test stamp. This will show you what pieces still need to be carved away, and any places where corrections should be made.
Make any corrections and...you're done! Don't worry if there are a few wonky bits, it adds to the charm of hand-carved stamps :)
(See the full series of instructions here.)
For a German version of this tutorial, please visit www.expli.de/anleitung/stempel-selber-machen-stempel-schn....
Capsulas de café recortadas + 3 retales de botella de plástico unidos con celo (para que queden mas fuertes)
Tutorial available here: jednoiglec.blogspot.com/2011/08/memory-board-quilt-tutori...
I must read it tomorrow once again and see if everything is ok:)
Depois que gravei o primeiro vídeo, choveu de gente perguntando como eu faço para jogar The Sims em modo janela. Então, fiz um tutorial rapidinho mostrando o passo-a-passo. O processo é bem simples, espero que gostem!
Lunes Dreamer Tutorial as interpreted by Alexis.
to view the full tutorial visit lunevintage.blogspot.com/2011/04/lunes-dream-catcher-how-...
Alexis says: I live and work in Port-au-Prince, Haiti and all of the lovely Lune
pictures and crafts take me to an oft-much-needed different world! I
had to scour the street market for hours to find anything remotely
resembling a doily. I ended up with a crocheted throw pillow cover
that I cut apart and then made the ring out of heavy wire... www.blexi.blogspot.com/
Check out our tutorial on assembling a large cat!