Light Painting Tutorials
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Example of use of TOPAZ AI SHARPEN
A Chiffchaff taking off
Un pouillot veloce qui s'envole
It's impossible to recover a movement blur with a sharpening filter : a sharpening filter will only add noise in this case but it will never recover details.
TOPAZ AI SHARPEN includes a new function called STABILIZE that is different from a simple sharpening filter. It tries to find a movement on the photo and to cancel it. That's why sometimes there are small artifacts on the opposite side of the movement, but it is really easy to deal with them with GIMP or photoshop.
To conclude : this tool deserves a try as it is free for 30 days.
It is very usefull for animals in movement (birds in flight, animals running ...), but it can manage movement of the photographer too.
(DSC08870_DxO-TIFF_1-stabilize70-70-0-4f)
…Or how to squeeze flowers into those teeny-weenie drops
I’ve had several people text me about the earlier “Drops of Art (Carney)” post and that they appreciated the explanation of how refractions works. Some requested additional information about creating water drop photos, so I’m posting this older photo and original tutorial:
I have always been drawn to nature and wildlife photography. I love taking my camera way up north to capture images of seldom-seen animals and exotic scenery. Unfortunately, we can’t always plan distant adventures to shoot photographs of moose and northern lights. But we can train our eyes to find the unexpected beauty in our own backyards.
My fascination (some might call it an obsession) with water drops began when I bought a Nikon D200 last summer. Sadly, the lens I wanted was out of stock. There was no way I was going to just look at my camera body while I waited, so I picked up a Nikkor 60mm macro. Through that lens I discovered worlds of complexity hidden within the simplest tiny drops of water.
I’m often asked if the images inside the water drops are real or the product of Photoshop. Let me assure you they are real, and anyone can find them if they know how to look. Simple physics produces these tiny, beautiful and common images. Water is cohesive, it naturally bonds together in the shape of a sphere, and in that shape it functions as a miniature lens that will refract nearby objects. Using that organic lens as seen through your technological lens, will allow you to explore those tiny, complex worlds.
The water drop photos on my stream have been the result of an evolutional process. My most viewed, most faved and most interesting photo (according to flickr) was taken almost by luck, lying flat on my belly using a Diet Coke can as tripod. But after a great deal of trial and error, I’ve come up with a few simple, consistent steps for more easily creating a water drop photograph.
1. Focus
2. Focus
3. Composition
4. Background
1. Focus: No, that's not a typo; focus is listed twice, and for a very good reason. It’s necessary to consider the focus of the water drop itself as well as the focus of the subject displayed within the drop. My initial concern is the water drop itself and the plant on which the drop is located. I like to set my camera to aperture priority to control the depth of field. The trick is to have enough depth of field so the drop and the plant (and maybe some nearby drops) are all in focus, while leaving the background sufficiently blurred so it doesn't compete for attention. I generally use f8 to f10 but I’ll sometimes stop down to f18 if the background does not need as much blur. I also find I get a sharper focus by backing away just a little and cropping the photo, rather than getting as close as possible in an attempt to get maximum magnification.
2. Focus: As seen in the example above, the water drop is in focus as is the image of the flower seen through the water drop, but the flower itself is not in focus. That effect is achieved not by adjusting the camera, but by relying on the water drop to act as a fixed focal lens. In other words, instead of adjusting the camera I adjust the object I want to appear within the water drop. I simply move it back or forward until I've found the clarity of focus I want. Some photos look better with blurred refractions. For the greatest clarity I've found the object should be 3-4 inches behind the water drop. This, of course, may vary if using a different macro lens. Be sure to experiment.
3. Composition: Obviously, the guidelines for good composition apply to water drop photographs. Attention should be given to the Rule of Thirds, to simplicity, to the geometry within the frame, and to all the usual elements of visual composition. It's important to remember, though, when photographing water drops that the very shape of the drop influences compositional decisions. Since the lens of the water drop is spherical (or nearly so), slight adjustments in the camera position…left, right, up, down…can have a radical effect on what is seen within the drop. Again, experiment.
4. Background: If you're working from nature, your control over the background is necessarily limited. You have to work with what you've got. As mentioned earlier, the unique qualities of the organic lens formed by a drop of water allows you to make minor adjustments in the camera position that will have a profound effect on what's seen within the drop. With a few simple props, you can gain better control over the background. For example, I often rely on a large sheet of insulation, which is bright blue on one side. I originally used it to block the wind, but noticed that even on the dreariest of days it can mimic a perfect azure sky.
Other Considerations: Almost every time I set out to take photographs of water drops, I learned something new. There was always some new factor to consider. I learned, for example, I could get bigger, more cohesive and more interesting drops on humid days. I discovered that even the slightest wind could have disastrous effects on macro focusing, as well as on the water drops themselves. I found that very slightly adjusting the exposure (-0.3EV to –0.7EV) would compensate for the natural sheen of the surface of the water drop, keeping it from being somewhat burnt out. Most important, I had to teach myself to remember that because a water drop acts as an organic lens, it presents everything upside down and in reverse (just like a pinhole camera or a large format camera).
So now I’m one of the few people who looks forward to really still, stifling, humid days. And even though my beautiful Nikkor 18-200mm has arrived, I still have my macro on more than half the time. Water drop photos are not only real, but also addicting to try to master.
That's it. That's how it's done. It's as simple as learning how chess pieces move, and just as complex as a game of chess. Good luck and think small.
Thanks!
Steve
Oi gente....
Fiz um Tutorial (que tá hilário) de um look que eu uso de dia e de noite...
Veja aqui!!!
Estou aguardando o feedback de vcs, gente....
É a primeira vez q eu faço um vídeo e eu tava meio nervosa....rs...
Perdoem os erros, ok?!?
Espero opiniões e sugestões!!
E críticas tbm...
rs
Bjoooooos
EDIT
Meninas....
Disponibilizei o video numa qualidade melhor aki ó
so here's the thing, this sky was basically blown-out in the photo... and oh i read that it's not good to point the camera into the sun! so yes ^_^ here used reverse of this tutorial to bring back the sky ;)
www.youtube.com/watch?v=VSQjLEk3bfI
medialoot.com/blog/how-to-fix-underexposed-photos-in-phot...
Thought i'd make a tutorial on how to create your base for eyes-making in PS.
I've been dealing with copybotters a lot lately, so maybe this will encourage them to learn.
Or maybe anyone who's ever dreamed of creating eyes, but never knew how to start. xD
The tutorial is divided in 4 parts. I made sure it was easy to follow.
<3
Que feliz!!! Hj o flickr colaborou comigooo.
Mel, esse é especial para vc! É o look do amigo oculto. Finalmente.. Rs...
Para ler, no tamanho grande fica melhor. Não tá gigante pq não tem muitos detalhes, então não precisa!
BEIJOS
The snowy season is finally wrapping up (unless you live on the upside-down part of the planet). Hopefully some of you folks got out shooting this past winter and got frostbite on your hands or feet to prove how hardcore you are… that’s important in nature photography.
If you you’ve actually got some winter images to work on you can check out a tutorial I released a few days ago where I show how I process snowy scenes and muse on topics that I think are worth thinking about with these types of images. You can check it out at www.ryandyar.com if you’d like. Or don’t check it out, it’s cool, it’s not like you’re gonna make me sad and feel insecure then start crying as I over-analyze my entire life and then start doubling up on my Zoloft thinking that it will cure me and give me the confidence of *insert a name of any annoying politician here* like it’s magic. But uhh, yeah, check it out if you’re into that type of thing. ♂️❤️
Unnamed desert formations deep into the nether-regions of Utah during the annual monsoon.
As always, thanks for scrolling far enough to see my dumb little picture. If you are interested in learning how I create my dumb little pictures, reading my dumb stories or seeing more dumb photography, you can head to www.ryandyar.com or check out the link in my profile. Email subscribers get free video tutorials monthly. ❤️
Here's a 1.5 second exposure light-painting with Kim using a sparkler on top of a black tube (extension). Our tubes and tutorials are available on AboutTheTubes.com <3
I've posted a tutorial on how I photoshopped this image on my blog at cymagen.blogspot.com/2007/01/anatomy-of-psd-part-1.html
First winter photo session this season. I will record a video tutorial using this photo. I think it's interesting because it wasn't wintery at all. No snow at all. I will post in on my website and on my YT channel
This is actually really old but yesterday I noticed I never posted it, so here it is, a tutorial on light stencils.
I know my profile says I am not here to sell tutorials, and I am technically not changing that because it is not for sale, it is purely a community service - So here goes.
Jaap's cellphone photography course - Chapter one.
When photographing wildlife with a cellphone it is a little known but highly effective technique to point the phone in the general direction of the subject.
hehehehe
I have told you about GIMP, a free Image Manipulation Program. It works really well, and I´d say as well as Photoshop, and the bonus...IT´S FREE!
I took the originals of few of my photos that I´ve manipulated in Photoshop and re-did them in GIMP, getting the same results.
But as always, it´s best to start slowly and get to know the program and first of all, learn how to download GIMP. For those of you who don´t have gimp, here is a link to how to download it:
www.flickr.com/photos/soffia/2339766783/
The tutorial with explanation images is here: www.soffia.net/gimptutorial02.html
1. Select from the menu: File → Open and choose the Image you´re gonna work with
2. Select from the menu: Colors → Brightness-Contrast...
3. Drag the slider up to 20 or write the number 20 in the box next to contrast. Click OK. Play around with different numbers in both brightness and contrast.
This tutorial is done in Photoshop CS3, and you need some basic knowlegde to follow it. The numbers are the exact ones I used.
Step by step snapshots at www.soffia.net/tutorial.html
1. I duplicade the layer twise, on one layer I erase out carefully the mountain with soft eraser, opacity 100 flow around 60. (you can also use masks) One layer is just to have the photo as it is.
2. Name the layers ( image01) mountains, clouds and just_in_case_layer.
3. Go to creatae new fill or adjustment layer and choose Levels. (Image 02) I tweeked the 3 arrows untill I got 8 ~ 0,73 ~ 200
4. Go to creatae new fill or adjustment layer again but this time choose Brightness/Contrast. and put in -12 for brightness and contr. -28 (Image03)
5. Go to creatae new fill or adjustment layer again and choose Hue/Saturation. (Image 04)
take up saturation to 22
6. For now, I´m fairly happy with the mountains, so now I drag the Clouds layer on top of all the layers. (Image 05)
7. Then I merge the mountains with all the adjustment layers by selecting all the layers, and choose merge layers (Image 06)Name the Layer mountains again if it´s called hue/saturation.
8. Now we can work on the clouds, you can turn off the mountains layer by clicking on the eye on the left. Go to creatae new fill or adjustment layer and choose Levels. (Image 02) I tweeked the 3 arrows untill I got 18 ~ 0,84 ~ 215
9. I want a little more contrast in the big cloud so duplicade the clouds layer, name it cloud-contrast go to Image - Adjustment - Levels. Use 59~ 0,64~ 195. The reason why I choose levels from there is cause I only want it to affect the new cloud layer(Image 07)
10. with the cloud-contrast layer picked, go to Image - Adjustment - Brightness/Contrast and put brightness to +36 and contrast +17
11. I find the cloud too red, so go to Image - Adjustment - hue/saturation, in Edit: choose
Reds and take the saturation down to -42. After that I rease around it so the layer would look like this (Image 08)
12. Let´s go to the Clouds layer again, Go to creatae new fill or adjustment layer and choose Brightness/Contrast. put in +45 for brightness (Image03)
13. Go to create new fill or adjustment layer (Image 04) and choose Hue/Saturation. In Edit:
Blues hue: -13 sat: -67
Cyans hue: -10 sat: -57 (or tweek the numbers untill you´re happy with the colors......)
15. Merge the layers by selecting Cloud-contrast,clouds and the all the adjustment layers(image 06) (you can also select the layers and hit Ctrl + E )
16. Turn on the Mountains Layer. Flatten image. Then I did some more adjucstment with hue/sat, cyan -9 and -39 then blues -4 and -22 and Yelloes -35. And then I went to levels and did 8 ~ 1,16 ~ 255.
17. Then I put the lomo gradient fill with 40 % opacity on that layer
I did use the clone stamp to erase out a part of the sky, the dark bottom part... :P
And finally I ran it through Neat Image, a software I bought the other day. neatimage.com/
I could probably spend another hour tweeking and tuning. But let´s say this done for now.
Hey everyone. Here's a basic tutorial for the wall technique that you can find in my Wizard's Gate build.
1. Start with a row of headlight bricks attached together. This row can be as long as you want the wall to be.
2. Place one plate on the front-most headlight bricks and two plates on the bricks that are further back. add headlight bricks, alternating studs on the back row and 1x1 tiles on the front.
3. Attatch 1x1 with one stud out to the headlight bricks and 1x1 bricks to the studs left on the front row.
4. Add alternating clips on top of the front row as seen in the picture.
5. Attach 1x1 and 1x2 plates onto the clips leaving a small gap between each to achieve a stonework effect. In long sections of this wall, you will run out of space to slide the 1x2 tiles along the clip to acheive the horizontal gap. But that's ok! Just skip one stud and continue the pattern with the clips attached to the other side of the 1x2 plates.
6. You can achieve a streamlined base to the wall using a bracket or any other half plate offset and three plates on top of that. The wall is 3.5 plates out from the headlight bricks and 7 plates above the initial starting plate. Feel free to use your own brickmath to close those gaps, I just showed what worked for me.
Hope that this helps anyone who was wondering how the wall was constructed. Feel free to try it out for yourself!
This image was captured as part of a Youtube tutorial showcasing how Macroscopic Solutions resolves dark or black characteristics on specimens. To view the methods used, please visit the following link:
My friend, "pixels in my head" sent me a tutorial for the "lomo effect" and I had to try it. The original version of this image is posted 5 photos before this one. I don't know if I accomplished the desired effect, but it is fun. Please check out Dewaun's photostream to see his lomo effect image:
www.flickr.com/photos/dewaun/304521245/
He has also posted the tutorial website.
What do you think? I'm going to have to experiment some more...
Tutorial.
Duplicate layer, right click on layer and choose duplicate layer, name it 01.
Now you have 2 Layers, called Background and 01. Make sure the 01 layer is chosen.
Go to Layer - New Adjustment layer - Brightness Contrast. brightness 0 contrast +17
Go to Layer - New Adjustment layer - Levels - the numbers are 12, 1,00, 215.
Now I´m happy with the sky for now, so now we´ll fix the rocks in the forground.
Duplicate the Background layer, name it 02, and drag it on top of all the layers.
Go to Image - Adjustment layer - Levels ( nb, now go to IMAGE not LAYER) Set it to 17 , 1,91 , 196
With the Erase tool(or Masks) erase the sky and the hill.
Go to Layer - New Adjustment layer - Hue/Saturation. Choose:
Cyan, -18, -31, 0
Blues, -16, -23, 0
And finally I put a little lomo vignette ( how to? you´ll find that here www.flickr.com/photos/soffia/1398672858/in/set-7215760238...
The opacity on the vignette layer on this photo here is 50%
I've got a little good news under the stars here in New Zealand for you all on a rather dreary week! I don't know if you've seen my two recent videos on "Despair" and "Anxiety" - but in one of them I mentioned that a great way to escape from your own crazy-monkey mind is to help other people!
I'm not saying this is a self-congratulatory way, but just because it's kinda cool and maybe it will help others be outward-focused as well! First, if you're bored at home, why not learn photography, eh? I took my best Beginning Photography course, filmed here in New Zealand, and made it TOTALLY FREE - people seem to love it and Stu says we have over $50,000 worth of downloads already - that's awesome and I hope you all are enjoying it.
Link below...
Also, I want to send a shout out to my friends over at Monday.com for helping out with a new information-sharing initiative that's just about to get started here in NZ that should help with the COVID-19 sitch.
Besides all that stuff, I'm gonna make some more videos here in the next several days... people seem interested in these topics: 1) conspiracy theories and why you shouldn't believe them 2) my full death experiences and why I'm not afraid to die 3) what kind of evolved society will emerge after this 4) what the heck I get up to on a daily basis in solo isolation 5) ways to thrive and create in this new paradigm... and more!
I may even make some fun videos with good 'ol Gino. Hey man I have a lot of spare time and I can't play video games ALLLL day!!
store.stuckincustoms.com/collections/tutorials/products/b...
In this advanced Photoshop tutorial I will show you how to create a nice floating woman in a forest. We will turn the forest from day to night effect in Photoshop and we will mask the sky using Calculations. We will create realistic depth of field using a Depth Map and we’ll paint realistic hair and light effects.
Tutorial here: www.psdbox.com/tutorials/fantasy-photoshop-tutorial-float...
Here is the final installment in my series of prizes for the Guild Evolution category of the 2024 Summer Joust
The settlement’s new dragon comrades gained them quite the reputation in the coming years. Intelligent and loyal, they were well suited to working together with the cartographers, hunters and trackers of the settlement. Together they could defeat even the most bloodthirsty of beasts that sometimes ventured out of Alnya’s deep forest, quickly deliver important messages, or find missing people. Their services were in high demand and earned them many generous rewards. And so an Adventurer’s Guild was formed where their many unique talents could be put to use solving problems others couldn’t. A large fortress was built with harbor, town, and farms springing up around it to house and supply the increasing number of recruits who came from afar to try and prove their mettle and gain admission.
More photos on more images on Brickbuilt.
Ever wondered how to build good tudor style walls?
Check out our latest tutorial by Titus V. on brickbuilt.
I create this image in my new video tutorial. It's all about Giants ;)
I shot the background in Dubai and the models in the studio ;)
If you like to see more: tutorial.adriansommeling.com
TUTORIAL ♥♥
A lot of people asked me how special shaped bokehs are done. I decided to put together a tutorial and explain things in details.
This is a single shot out of the camera! Nothing was added in Photoshop.
Special thanks to Tony who helped me with the picture formatting!
#28
I was really looking forward to this Macro Monday, as I've been meaning to have a play with my little (2") turquoise glass bottle.
Watched an internet tutorial on lighting, which helped. I think we can probably guess where the inspiration came from (our own 365-er Mandy Willard)!
Viewed through the shoulder of a cider flagon, with white surface and background, and black boards either side, with flash behind the bottle, reflected off the backdrop from each side. This was the most abstract version I shot, and I preferred it for that reason.
Still need to work on lighting glass, but fun was had!
Many of you have requested a Poseable Arms Tutorial, so here it is, as promised! I explained the best I can, but if you have further questions, don't hesitate to ask. Have extra pieces in case of an accident; you may need multiple test trials for this (I know I did :P). I hope you can use this tutorial to improve your figures! View on all sizes for close-ups on the instructions.
What you will need:
-Torso - www.bricklink.com/PL/973.jpg?1
-Arms - www.bricklink.com/PL/981982.jpg?0
-Old skeleton arm - www.bricklink.com/PL/6265.gif?0
-Lever - www.bricklink.com/PL/4593.gif?0
-A crafting knife
-Superglue
-Andrew
My photography book - NOW AVAILABLE: www.philsharp-photo.com/shop
Take my portrait tutorial course:
www.domestika.org/en/courses/3579-modern-headshot-photogr...
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Neist Point, Duirinish, Isle of Skye.
A portrait telephoto view of the landscape version below. Not sure which one I prefer, so I kept them both.
www.karlwilliamsphotography.co.uk
See www.karlwilliamsphotography.co.uk/tutorials for a tutorial on the use of the NDx1000 filter for long exposures.
Created for the Magnificent Manipulated Masterpieces
156th MMM UNDER THE SEA THEME Challenge
Tutorial. www.rafy-a.com/2017/04/the-bottle-photoshop-photo-manipul...
Another build for Hibernia, though this time in minifigure scale. I built most of this truck in a single evening, just coming back later to refine a couple areas and add the cargo.
I didn’t have any definite plans when I started, and the entire truck grew out of the rear wheel setup.
Alternate angles can be seen on Brickbuilt.
Tutorials | Creations | Featured Tutorials | Build Logs | Commissions
I'm writing a series of reroot tutorials, and just posted the first part on my blog: lovalizious.blogspot.nl/2013/12/blythe-reroot-tutorial-pa...
Let me know what you think!
Gostaria do tutorial destes box, para passar para uma amiga muito querida Lelê Ceschini, se alguém tiver, agradeço!
bjos
This can be done in 2 ways. The Vanishing Point Filter is one way and there are dozens of Tutorials to show you how. But the much simpler way is to put your background and type on 2 layers. Then go to Edit, Perspective Warp. You will see two modes on the top left corner of your screen one says Layout, then other says Warp. Be sure you are on the Text Layer.
With the Layout screen you can make your Panels to go around your text. Be sure you have a straight line on the divider. You can move these anywhere to cover your text. Make another panel for the other side, start it very close to the first panel. When you are done just join the Links to combine them.
Then clip on Warp. Nothing happens. but now when you move the panel links you can line up your type perfectly on the lines.
When you finish if one side didn't line up quite right go back to Perspective Warp and make another Panel and move it.
This is a much simpler way to accomplish the same result.
I was hoping to put this tutorial up a while ago, but never got the chance to complete it until now. I received a lot of requests from people who wanted to know the workflow on the Times Square image(below). It’s fairly similar to my previous tutorial (the first few stages relating to the camera setup and Photomatix processing are pretty much the same), although this one concentrates more on the post processing in Adobe Photoshop.
If anyone wants to practice with the original images, let me know and I’ll upload them. You can see my original HDR tutorial here.
* You can enlarge any of the screenshots below, by clicking on the image which will take you through to the larger image.
The tutorial can also be found over on my blog http://blog.sandmania.co.uk.
Working on a temple and decided to add an interior. Wanted to play around a bit with the floor and found some inspiration looking at -LittleJohn and Katie Walker’s work so I decided to make a tutorial :) Hopefully some people will find it useful. The full build should be done fairly soon so stay tuned ;)