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I followed a Julieanne Kost tutorial the other day and somehow I must have missed a step because it wasn't supposed to be quite like this. One day I will start again but in the meantime I thought I'd keep this anyway, I quite liked it.
These are 10 images of mine, severely cropped after applying 2 blur filters.
…Or how to squeeze flowers into those teeny-weenie drops
I’ve had several people text me about the earlier “Drops of Art (Carney)” post and that they appreciated the explanation of how refractions works. Some requested additional information about creating water drop photos, so I’m posting this older photo and original tutorial:
I have always been drawn to nature and wildlife photography. I love taking my camera way up north to capture images of seldom-seen animals and exotic scenery. Unfortunately, we can’t always plan distant adventures to shoot photographs of moose and northern lights. But we can train our eyes to find the unexpected beauty in our own backyards.
My fascination (some might call it an obsession) with water drops began when I bought a Nikon D200 last summer. Sadly, the lens I wanted was out of stock. There was no way I was going to just look at my camera body while I waited, so I picked up a Nikkor 60mm macro. Through that lens I discovered worlds of complexity hidden within the simplest tiny drops of water.
I’m often asked if the images inside the water drops are real or the product of Photoshop. Let me assure you they are real, and anyone can find them if they know how to look. Simple physics produces these tiny, beautiful and common images. Water is cohesive, it naturally bonds together in the shape of a sphere, and in that shape it functions as a miniature lens that will refract nearby objects. Using that organic lens as seen through your technological lens, will allow you to explore those tiny, complex worlds.
The water drop photos on my stream have been the result of an evolutional process. My most viewed, most faved and most interesting photo (according to flickr) was taken almost by luck, lying flat on my belly using a Diet Coke can as tripod. But after a great deal of trial and error, I’ve come up with a few simple, consistent steps for more easily creating a water drop photograph.
1. Focus
2. Focus
3. Composition
4. Background
1. Focus: No, that's not a typo; focus is listed twice, and for a very good reason. It’s necessary to consider the focus of the water drop itself as well as the focus of the subject displayed within the drop. My initial concern is the water drop itself and the plant on which the drop is located. I like to set my camera to aperture priority to control the depth of field. The trick is to have enough depth of field so the drop and the plant (and maybe some nearby drops) are all in focus, while leaving the background sufficiently blurred so it doesn't compete for attention. I generally use f8 to f10 but I’ll sometimes stop down to f18 if the background does not need as much blur. I also find I get a sharper focus by backing away just a little and cropping the photo, rather than getting as close as possible in an attempt to get maximum magnification.
2. Focus: As seen in the example above, the water drop is in focus as is the image of the flower seen through the water drop, but the flower itself is not in focus. That effect is achieved not by adjusting the camera, but by relying on the water drop to act as a fixed focal lens. In other words, instead of adjusting the camera I adjust the object I want to appear within the water drop. I simply move it back or forward until I've found the clarity of focus I want. Some photos look better with blurred refractions. For the greatest clarity I've found the object should be 3-4 inches behind the water drop. This, of course, may vary if using a different macro lens. Be sure to experiment.
3. Composition: Obviously, the guidelines for good composition apply to water drop photographs. Attention should be given to the Rule of Thirds, to simplicity, to the geometry within the frame, and to all the usual elements of visual composition. It's important to remember, though, when photographing water drops that the very shape of the drop influences compositional decisions. Since the lens of the water drop is spherical (or nearly so), slight adjustments in the camera position…left, right, up, down…can have a radical effect on what is seen within the drop. Again, experiment.
4. Background: If you're working from nature, your control over the background is necessarily limited. You have to work with what you've got. As mentioned earlier, the unique qualities of the organic lens formed by a drop of water allows you to make minor adjustments in the camera position that will have a profound effect on what's seen within the drop. With a few simple props, you can gain better control over the background. For example, I often rely on a large sheet of insulation, which is bright blue on one side. I originally used it to block the wind, but noticed that even on the dreariest of days it can mimic a perfect azure sky.
Other Considerations: Almost every time I set out to take photographs of water drops, I learned something new. There was always some new factor to consider. I learned, for example, I could get bigger, more cohesive and more interesting drops on humid days. I discovered that even the slightest wind could have disastrous effects on macro focusing, as well as on the water drops themselves. I found that very slightly adjusting the exposure (-0.3EV to –0.7EV) would compensate for the natural sheen of the surface of the water drop, keeping it from being somewhat burnt out. Most important, I had to teach myself to remember that because a water drop acts as an organic lens, it presents everything upside down and in reverse (just like a pinhole camera or a large format camera).
So now I’m one of the few people who looks forward to really still, stifling, humid days. And even though my beautiful Nikkor 18-200mm has arrived, I still have my macro on more than half the time. Water drop photos are not only real, but also addicting to try to master.
That's it. That's how it's done. It's as simple as learning how chess pieces move, and just as complex as a game of chess. Good luck and think small.
Thanks!
Steve
When the worldwide Covidcorona shutdown happened, I decided to take my best photography tutorial from store.stuckincustoms.com and make it FREE so people could learn from the Beginning Photography videos while they were all cooped up. We just checked Shopify and we gave away $125,000+ worth so people really seem to love it! Anyway, this is a last warning that it will only last another 24 hours... so get on in there if you haven't yet!
Someone was asking me lots of questions about mohair and asked for a tutorial on how to actually reroot it and everything.... the ones I recommended they didn't find helpful apparently, so I made one for them.
iamlily, this is your blythe's scalp, it's famous! :P
So Wedge, how can you do yourself and possibly others out of business?
I've posted a tutorial on how I photoshopped this image on my blog at cymagen.blogspot.com/2007/01/anatomy-of-psd-part-1.html
This is actually really old but yesterday I noticed I never posted it, so here it is, a tutorial on light stencils.
I know my profile says I am not here to sell tutorials, and I am technically not changing that because it is not for sale, it is purely a community service - So here goes.
Jaap's cellphone photography course - Chapter one.
When photographing wildlife with a cellphone it is a little known but highly effective technique to point the phone in the general direction of the subject.
hehehehe
I have told you about GIMP, a free Image Manipulation Program. It works really well, and I´d say as well as Photoshop, and the bonus...IT´S FREE!
I took the originals of few of my photos that I´ve manipulated in Photoshop and re-did them in GIMP, getting the same results.
But as always, it´s best to start slowly and get to know the program and first of all, learn how to download GIMP. For those of you who don´t have gimp, here is a link to how to download it:
www.flickr.com/photos/soffia/2339766783/
The tutorial with explanation images is here: www.soffia.net/gimptutorial02.html
1. Select from the menu: File → Open and choose the Image you´re gonna work with
2. Select from the menu: Colors → Brightness-Contrast...
3. Drag the slider up to 20 or write the number 20 in the box next to contrast. Click OK. Play around with different numbers in both brightness and contrast.
This tutorial is done in Photoshop CS3, and you need some basic knowlegde to follow it. The numbers are the exact ones I used.
Step by step snapshots at www.soffia.net/tutorial.html
1. I duplicade the layer twise, on one layer I erase out carefully the mountain with soft eraser, opacity 100 flow around 60. (you can also use masks) One layer is just to have the photo as it is.
2. Name the layers ( image01) mountains, clouds and just_in_case_layer.
3. Go to creatae new fill or adjustment layer and choose Levels. (Image 02) I tweeked the 3 arrows untill I got 8 ~ 0,73 ~ 200
4. Go to creatae new fill or adjustment layer again but this time choose Brightness/Contrast. and put in -12 for brightness and contr. -28 (Image03)
5. Go to creatae new fill or adjustment layer again and choose Hue/Saturation. (Image 04)
take up saturation to 22
6. For now, I´m fairly happy with the mountains, so now I drag the Clouds layer on top of all the layers. (Image 05)
7. Then I merge the mountains with all the adjustment layers by selecting all the layers, and choose merge layers (Image 06)Name the Layer mountains again if it´s called hue/saturation.
8. Now we can work on the clouds, you can turn off the mountains layer by clicking on the eye on the left. Go to creatae new fill or adjustment layer and choose Levels. (Image 02) I tweeked the 3 arrows untill I got 18 ~ 0,84 ~ 215
9. I want a little more contrast in the big cloud so duplicade the clouds layer, name it cloud-contrast go to Image - Adjustment - Levels. Use 59~ 0,64~ 195. The reason why I choose levels from there is cause I only want it to affect the new cloud layer(Image 07)
10. with the cloud-contrast layer picked, go to Image - Adjustment - Brightness/Contrast and put brightness to +36 and contrast +17
11. I find the cloud too red, so go to Image - Adjustment - hue/saturation, in Edit: choose
Reds and take the saturation down to -42. After that I rease around it so the layer would look like this (Image 08)
12. Let´s go to the Clouds layer again, Go to creatae new fill or adjustment layer and choose Brightness/Contrast. put in +45 for brightness (Image03)
13. Go to create new fill or adjustment layer (Image 04) and choose Hue/Saturation. In Edit:
Blues hue: -13 sat: -67
Cyans hue: -10 sat: -57 (or tweek the numbers untill you´re happy with the colors......)
15. Merge the layers by selecting Cloud-contrast,clouds and the all the adjustment layers(image 06) (you can also select the layers and hit Ctrl + E )
16. Turn on the Mountains Layer. Flatten image. Then I did some more adjucstment with hue/sat, cyan -9 and -39 then blues -4 and -22 and Yelloes -35. And then I went to levels and did 8 ~ 1,16 ~ 255.
17. Then I put the lomo gradient fill with 40 % opacity on that layer
I did use the clone stamp to erase out a part of the sky, the dark bottom part... :P
And finally I ran it through Neat Image, a software I bought the other day. neatimage.com/
I could probably spend another hour tweeking and tuning. But let´s say this done for now.
1 » foto original;
2 » Selecione o rosto sem selecionar olhos, boca e narinas;
3 » Após selecionar, copie (ctrl+c), cole (ctrl+v) e duplique a camada colada (ctrl+j). Na cama da meio, aplique um desfoque gaussiano (Menu Filtro/Desfoque/Desfoque gaussiano/5,0 OK). Na última camada (a de cima), você vai aplicar uma alta frequencia (Menu Filtro/Outros/Alta Frequencia - high pass/1,5 OK). A imagem ficará cinza, então mude para sobrepor (overlay) e una as camadas. Obs.: Caso precise arrumar alguma coisa que ficou "embaçada demais", vá na camada do desfoque gaussiano e passe uma borracha macia com uma opacidade baixa.
4 » Boca: Selecione a boca e vá em Menu Camada/Nova camada de preenchimento/Cor sólida. Escolha uma cor que fique boa pra boca e clique em OK. Caso fique borrado, é só usar a borracha macia (sempre usando a borracha macia =))
5 » Como fica a camada =)
6 » Olhos (oba!): Os olhos são que nem a boca. Você seleciona onde você quer a sombra e o lápis. Nesse passo, fiz o lápis e o delineador. Junto à foto tem as camadas. =)
7 » Mesma coisa. Selecione os olhos e pinte com o preenchimento de camada. Caso precise, dê um desfoque gaussiano pra ficar mais realista e tire um pouco da opacidade ou use a borracha, também. Mudei a cor dos olhos, também. Deixei mais viva a cor. É o mesmo passo. =)
8 » Como os olhos ficaram e o blush, que é a mesma coisa. Selecione as maçãs do rosto e vão em Menu Camada/Nova camada de preenchimento/Cor sólida/Escolha a cor OK e tire a opacidade. Será necessário dar uma desfocada (ctrl+f, caso tenha sido o último filtro que você usou =))
9 » Resultado.
Espero que tenham gostado e que eu tenha ajudado! hehe.
Qualquer dúvida, perguntem! =D
about b/w conversions - dedicated to Colormaniac too, who brought up the subject. Link: [youtu.be/XA0Of0QMtIs]
I've got a little good news under the stars here in New Zealand for you all on a rather dreary week! I don't know if you've seen my two recent videos on "Despair" and "Anxiety" - but in one of them I mentioned that a great way to escape from your own crazy-monkey mind is to help other people!
I'm not saying this is a self-congratulatory way, but just because it's kinda cool and maybe it will help others be outward-focused as well! First, if you're bored at home, why not learn photography, eh? I took my best Beginning Photography course, filmed here in New Zealand, and made it TOTALLY FREE - people seem to love it and Stu says we have over $50,000 worth of downloads already - that's awesome and I hope you all are enjoying it.
Link below...
Also, I want to send a shout out to my friends over at Monday.com for helping out with a new information-sharing initiative that's just about to get started here in NZ that should help with the COVID-19 sitch.
Besides all that stuff, I'm gonna make some more videos here in the next several days... people seem interested in these topics: 1) conspiracy theories and why you shouldn't believe them 2) my full death experiences and why I'm not afraid to die 3) what kind of evolved society will emerge after this 4) what the heck I get up to on a daily basis in solo isolation 5) ways to thrive and create in this new paradigm... and more!
I may even make some fun videos with good 'ol Gino. Hey man I have a lot of spare time and I can't play video games ALLLL day!!
store.stuckincustoms.com/collections/tutorials/products/b...
Ever wondered how to build good tudor style walls?
Check out our latest tutorial by Titus V. on brickbuilt.
Soon after taking the photo I showed here yesterday I had to run for cover. The dramatic light turned into a short but heavy downpour. The next dry place was right under the Westminster bridge in this passage underground. As I turned around after the short spring and saw this view I didn't hesitate to take another couple of photos. If it wasn't for the rain I might never have gone down there and found this gem of a perspective.
In this advanced Photoshop tutorial I will show you how to create a nice floating woman in a forest. We will turn the forest from day to night effect in Photoshop and we will mask the sky using Calculations. We will create realistic depth of field using a Depth Map and we’ll paint realistic hair and light effects.
Tutorial here: www.psdbox.com/tutorials/fantasy-photoshop-tutorial-float...
Hey everyone.
Isaac and John asked me to write a small tutorial for my waterfall design to be featured on their awesome site www.brickbuilt.org/.
Check it out here!
TUTORIAL ♥♥
A lot of people asked me how special shaped bokehs are done. I decided to put together a tutorial and explain things in details.
This is a single shot out of the camera! Nothing was added in Photoshop.
Special thanks to Tony who helped me with the picture formatting!
#28
Oi meninas, final do ano a gente tem aquele monte de eventos né? É festinha disso, encerramento daquilo, coquetel, amigo secreto, festa de fim de ano da empresa... pensando nisso resolvi hj fazer uma make não muito cheguei, mas bem bonita pra esses tipos de evento.
Fotografei o passo a passo, mas tô com uma preguiça enorme de editar, vcs perdoam???? rs rs rs
O que usei:
- Fixador de Sombra Contém 1G
- Sombra Pérola do trio Hippie Chic NYX
- Sombra 06 Duda Molinos
- Sombra Marrom Cintilante Contém 1G
- Iluminador Sun Light Nivea
- Jumbo Eyeshadow cor Gold NYX
- Rímel Ashtoning AVON
Depois eu aviso quando postar o tutorial tá?
I made this tutorial for my contacts who requested it after seeing Radiant. I didn't have the time to blur the sunset image in exactly the same way...but you get the idea. I used GIMP to edit this.
Okay, so if you don't want lightness lift, if your background is already a solid color (such as a clear blue sky), and if your image is already dark enough and you don't need to make it more bold, then you can start at STEP 5.
1. Original image
2. How to Add a Gradient
---a) Make a "new from visible" layer: Go to your "channels, undo, layers" box, and right-click your image thumbnail. At the top of the bar that pops up, should be "New From Visible". Select this. A new layer should appear above the old thumbnail.
---b) Add lightness lift:
*In your toolbox (which is the box on the left of your screen), there should be a tool called "Blend Tool". When you click the blend tool, the bottom of your toolbox will change. You must make the settings say:
Mode: Overlay
Opacity: 100%
Gradient: FB to BG (RGB) ***and make sure the box beside the gradient has a check mark in it
Shape: Radial
ALSO make note of the colored boxes just above the half-way mark in your toolbox. Black should be the front color, white should be the rectangle of color behind it.
THEN, click the middle of your image, and hold down the mouse while you drag your cursor to any outside corner of the image. Your gradient should appear.
3. Make another "New From Visible" layer. If your image has clouds in it, blur them in using the "Smudge Tool" in your toolbox.
4. IF YOUR IMAGE IS OVEREXPOSED (like mine is):
Make another "New From Visible" layer. Just above your thumbnails in the "Channels, Undo, Layers" toolbox, should be a grey square with a downwards arrow in it. (Between Mode and Opacity) Click it, and select multiply. This darkens your image.
5. Open up your sunset picture. Go under File --> Open as Layers--> and select your image to open it.
6. Your image should appear as a layer on top of the others. Just above your thumbnails in the "Channels, Undo, Layers" toolbox, should be a grey square with a downwards arrow in it. (Between Mode and Opacity) Click it, and select EITHER "Hard Light (like I did) or "Soft Light" (if you want less of the sunset to show though).
7. Using the smudge tool, blur any parts of the sunset that are on top of your main subject, or are too sharp.
8. Make another "New From Visible" layer, and add some color curves
I used a wooden thrift store plaque as a base and added cereal box cardboard details. Coated in gesso, painted with chalk paint, aged a bit with brown wax and added a door knob.
It is a little short, but works ok for Blythe in a diorama.
Want to make a neat semicircle tower for a gatehouse or other project? Then the latest tutorial on Brickbuilt is just what you need!
Tutorials | Creations | Featured Tutorials | Build Logs | Commissions
Gostaria do tutorial destes box, para passar para uma amiga muito querida Lelê Ceschini, se alguém tiver, agradeço!
bjos
I was hoping to put this tutorial up a while ago, but never got the chance to complete it until now. I received a lot of requests from people who wanted to know the workflow on the Times Square image(below). It’s fairly similar to my previous tutorial (the first few stages relating to the camera setup and Photomatix processing are pretty much the same), although this one concentrates more on the post processing in Adobe Photoshop.
If anyone wants to practice with the original images, let me know and I’ll upload them. You can see my original HDR tutorial here.
* You can enlarge any of the screenshots below, by clicking on the image which will take you through to the larger image.
The tutorial can also be found over on my blog http://blog.sandmania.co.uk.
Working on a temple and decided to add an interior. Wanted to play around a bit with the floor and found some inspiration looking at -LittleJohn and Katie Walker’s work so I decided to make a tutorial :) Hopefully some people will find it useful. The full build should be done fairly soon so stay tuned ;)
Okay, so I made this tutorial a while back, and I shared it on my Facebook MOC page.
I've got the link to the rest of the tutorial below!It's relatively simple and decently sturdy. Plus, IMO it fits in pretty good with an Oriental setting. :)
Enjoy and God bless!
www.facebook.com/LEGObyNelson/photos/pcb.1083726751661965...
NEW VIDEO! iPhone Photography Tutorial: Lippen - Surreal Portrait #04 #video
Check link on my Instagram profile for my channel. OR here’s for direct link to video: youtu.be/Ok9e_PtsUGU
Enjoy!
#surreal #icolorama #superimpose #lensdistortions #mextures #iphoneart #mobileart #iphoneonly
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#instagram #mobileartistry #shotaward #artsick #fineartphg #expofilm #enter_imagination #graphicroozane #thecreativers #manipulationteam #moodcommunity #launchdsigns #milliondollarvisuals #imaginativeuniverse
#iphoneography #iphone #photography
1. Simplicity shorts 2353 pattern tutorial, 2. Cut 2, 3. Shown cut out, 4. I only cut one small notch, 5. Right sides together, pin, 6. Sew center front, 7. Snip some to ease the seam, 8. Fray Check!, 9. Iron bottom hem on both sides, 10. Sew bottom hems on both sides, 11. Fold down and iron elastic casing, 12. Sew along casing line, 13. Cut a piece of elastic 3 1/2" long, 14. Thread the elastic with a bodkin, 15. Put the eye through the bottom opening until it comes out the other side, 16. Thread the eye with the elastic, 17. Try to flatten the elastic over the eye, 18. Pull the elastic through the opening, 19. Don't let the elastic come all the way through, 20. Sewn down elastic, 21. Do the same thing on the other end, 22. Even out the "bunches" above the elastic, 23. Fold in half, right sides together, 24. Sew along back, 25. A few snips for fabric ease, 26. Fold the shorts in on themselves, 27. Create leg holes by folding (sort of like a cootie catcher), 28. Pin in place, 29. Sew up one leg and down the other, 30. Snips for ease, 31. Turn inside out, 32. B: You didn't match up the plaid lines very well, lady.
See the photo set: www.flickr.com/photos/morganannie/sets/72157624438391206/
The latest tutorial on Brickbuilt shows how to build slanted rockwork, like I used in my Risky Endeavor creation.
Full color photo tutorial over on Moda Bake Shop:: www.modabakeshop.com/2011/02/sunkissed-squares.html
If you have ever struggled with making a round roof, you'll definitely want to check out this tutorial by Cozei on brickbuilt.
Picture II
For those who did not see the first picture...
This is going to be my first visual tutorial about consciousness and awareness.
It is very easy because the pictures will speak for themselves.
Without words you will understand, what it all means.
Maybe you discover something very important for yourself... :-)))
If you like, ask yourself what you see and how you see.
Next picture tomorrow.
HKD