View allAll Photos Tagged Tutorial
I did this a while ago and kept it for autumn. The acorns are golden and are meant to be Christmas decorations. I followed a fun tutorial and liked the result
When the worldwide Covidcorona shutdown happened, I decided to take my best photography tutorial from store.stuckincustoms.com and make it FREE so people could learn from the Beginning Photography videos while they were all cooped up. We just checked Shopify and we gave away $125,000+ worth so people really seem to love it! Anyway, this is a last warning that it will only last another 24 hours... so get on in there if you haven't yet!
Dec 12
Well since I didn't feel like ordering a bunch of legos flashmasks a decided to try to make my own.
You will need:
-Green stuff (or something like it)
-A thin but hard plastic sheet
-A stud
-A lego head to sculpt on
This is how you can do it for yourself step by step:
1-Cut of the antistud-ring part of a stud.
2-Glue a thin piece of plastic on top of the ring on the side you cut.
(to prevent the sculpting material to get in the antistud)
3-Put it onto a lego head (tip is to take a scrappy head and glue a stud underneath to make it easier to remove it afterwards and then put lots of oil(for example olive oil) on top of the head)
4-Make a thin pretty rough sculpt around the head.
5-Cut out the eye parts and the underline of the mask and sand it.
(sculpt again if needed)
6-Remove it from the head. (It won't stick to the head if ypu use the oil on the head)
7-Paint it as you want.
(8-Add other details to it. You can use for example a hard, thin plasticsheet or just sculpt)
Hope you feel inspired :)
Comment if you did get inspired and what you think of it.
This helmet is not done for what I'm going to use it for. :P
Someone was asking me lots of questions about mohair and asked for a tutorial on how to actually reroot it and everything.... the ones I recommended they didn't find helpful apparently, so I made one for them.
iamlily, this is your blythe's scalp, it's famous! :P
So Wedge, how can you do yourself and possibly others out of business?
I've posted a tutorial on how I photoshopped this image on my blog at cymagen.blogspot.com/2007/01/anatomy-of-psd-part-1.html
There is a tutorial on how I worked on this photo in the December issue of psdmag.org
Subscribe and you can download it for free
Cheers, Soffia
I know my profile says I am not here to sell tutorials, and I am technically not changing that because it is not for sale, it is purely a community service - So here goes.
Jaap's cellphone photography course - Chapter one.
When photographing wildlife with a cellphone it is a little known but highly effective technique to point the phone in the general direction of the subject.
hehehehe
Oops, just realised I have given the wrong cutting size for the hst squares! They should be cut at 2 3/8" not 2 7/8". Sorry! I always get that wrong! You'll have lots of trimming room if you cut them 2 7/8" ;b If you're wondering what I mean by a 9 patch block, there's a WIP photo here. See my Christmas Snowflake set for more photos. EDITED... An updated photo can be found here with the correct dimensions for the HST squares.
I made a picture tutorial for creating this image. It was done digitally in Paint Shop Pro X. I made the tutorial for my Smudgepainting group here on Flickr and for all my Digitalnuts friends.
metaversetutorials.blogspot.com/
I have been working on a tutorial site for some of the participants of a virtual conference session, those amongst them who are new to online 3D worlds:
isea2011.sabanciuniv.edu/metaverse-papers
The idea is to do it mostly with screenshots, onto which I have added numerical legends and arrows to show how things flow on the menus. So, hopefully it should only take a few hours to run through the basics of the interface, and also like a quick reference guide for when they are actually online.
Although the examples and locations used are all at NGrid, where the event will be held, I am hoping that novices at other grids can also get usage out of this.
My new BW post processing video tutorial is now ready for download, for a limited time get all 9 videos for the price of 1
Video 1 My Complete BW Workflow
Video 2 Mastering BW Conversions
Video 3 Fine Art Architecture
Video 4 Fine Art Landscape
Video 5 Fine Art Seascape
Video 6 Fine Art Cityscape
Video 7 Fine Art Long Exposure
Video 8 Fine Art Street
Video 9 Minimal Photography
also included are my photoshop files and post processing notes!
An extremely comprehensive post processing tutorial for fine art BW photography
www.vulturelabs.photography/product-page/b-w-post-process...
This Bunny was based on this tutorial: tutsplus.
It took me a little while - and now I see that I have chosen the wrong export cmyk instead of rgb. UPDATED: its changed back to the right colors :-)
1 » foto original;
2 » Selecione o rosto sem selecionar olhos, boca e narinas;
3 » Após selecionar, copie (ctrl+c), cole (ctrl+v) e duplique a camada colada (ctrl+j). Na cama da meio, aplique um desfoque gaussiano (Menu Filtro/Desfoque/Desfoque gaussiano/5,0 OK). Na última camada (a de cima), você vai aplicar uma alta frequencia (Menu Filtro/Outros/Alta Frequencia - high pass/1,5 OK). A imagem ficará cinza, então mude para sobrepor (overlay) e una as camadas. Obs.: Caso precise arrumar alguma coisa que ficou "embaçada demais", vá na camada do desfoque gaussiano e passe uma borracha macia com uma opacidade baixa.
4 » Boca: Selecione a boca e vá em Menu Camada/Nova camada de preenchimento/Cor sólida. Escolha uma cor que fique boa pra boca e clique em OK. Caso fique borrado, é só usar a borracha macia (sempre usando a borracha macia =))
5 » Como fica a camada =)
6 » Olhos (oba!): Os olhos são que nem a boca. Você seleciona onde você quer a sombra e o lápis. Nesse passo, fiz o lápis e o delineador. Junto à foto tem as camadas. =)
7 » Mesma coisa. Selecione os olhos e pinte com o preenchimento de camada. Caso precise, dê um desfoque gaussiano pra ficar mais realista e tire um pouco da opacidade ou use a borracha, também. Mudei a cor dos olhos, também. Deixei mais viva a cor. É o mesmo passo. =)
8 » Como os olhos ficaram e o blush, que é a mesma coisa. Selecione as maçãs do rosto e vão em Menu Camada/Nova camada de preenchimento/Cor sólida/Escolha a cor OK e tire a opacidade. Será necessário dar uma desfocada (ctrl+f, caso tenha sido o último filtro que você usou =))
9 » Resultado.
Espero que tenham gostado e que eu tenha ajudado! hehe.
Qualquer dúvida, perguntem! =D
Hey everyone. Here's a basic tutorial for the wall technique that you can find in my Wizard's Gate build.
1. Start with a row of headlight bricks attached together. This row can be as long as you want the wall to be.
2. Place one plate on the front-most headlight bricks and two plates on the bricks that are further back. add headlight bricks, alternating studs on the back row and 1x1 tiles on the front.
3. Attatch 1x1 with one stud out to the headlight bricks and 1x1 bricks to the studs left on the front row.
4. Add alternating clips on top of the front row as seen in the picture.
5. Attach 1x1 and 1x2 plates onto the clips leaving a small gap between each to achieve a stonework effect. In long sections of this wall, you will run out of space to slide the 1x2 tiles along the clip to acheive the horizontal gap. But that's ok! Just skip one stud and continue the pattern with the clips attached to the other side of the 1x2 plates.
6. You can achieve a streamlined base to the wall using a bracket or any other half plate offset and three plates on top of that. The wall is 3.5 plates out from the headlight bricks and 7 plates above the initial starting plate. Feel free to use your own brickmath to close those gaps, I just showed what worked for me.
Hope that this helps anyone who was wondering how the wall was constructed. Feel free to try it out for yourself!
I've got a little good news under the stars here in New Zealand for you all on a rather dreary week! I don't know if you've seen my two recent videos on "Despair" and "Anxiety" - but in one of them I mentioned that a great way to escape from your own crazy-monkey mind is to help other people!
I'm not saying this is a self-congratulatory way, but just because it's kinda cool and maybe it will help others be outward-focused as well! First, if you're bored at home, why not learn photography, eh? I took my best Beginning Photography course, filmed here in New Zealand, and made it TOTALLY FREE - people seem to love it and Stu says we have over $50,000 worth of downloads already - that's awesome and I hope you all are enjoying it.
Link below...
Also, I want to send a shout out to my friends over at Monday.com for helping out with a new information-sharing initiative that's just about to get started here in NZ that should help with the COVID-19 sitch.
Besides all that stuff, I'm gonna make some more videos here in the next several days... people seem interested in these topics: 1) conspiracy theories and why you shouldn't believe them 2) my full death experiences and why I'm not afraid to die 3) what kind of evolved society will emerge after this 4) what the heck I get up to on a daily basis in solo isolation 5) ways to thrive and create in this new paradigm... and more!
I may even make some fun videos with good 'ol Gino. Hey man I have a lot of spare time and I can't play video games ALLLL day!!
store.stuckincustoms.com/collections/tutorials/products/b...
Ever wondered how to build good tudor style walls?
Check out our latest tutorial by Titus V. on brickbuilt.
In this advanced Photoshop tutorial I will show you how to create a nice floating woman in a forest. We will turn the forest from day to night effect in Photoshop and we will mask the sky using Calculations. We will create realistic depth of field using a Depth Map and we’ll paint realistic hair and light effects.
Tutorial here: www.psdbox.com/tutorials/fantasy-photoshop-tutorial-float...
Hey everyone.
Isaac and John asked me to write a small tutorial for my waterfall design to be featured on their awesome site www.brickbuilt.org/.
Check it out here!
This can be done in 2 ways. The Vanishing Point Filter is one way and there are dozens of Tutorials to show you how. But the much simpler way is to put your background and type on 2 layers. Then go to Edit, Perspective Warp. You will see two modes on the top left corner of your screen one says Layout, then other says Warp. Be sure you are on the Text Layer.
With the Layout screen you can make your Panels to go around your text. Be sure you have a straight line on the divider. You can move these anywhere to cover your text. Make another panel for the other side, start it very close to the first panel. When you are done just join the Links to combine them.
Then clip on Warp. Nothing happens. but now when you move the panel links you can line up your type perfectly on the lines.
When you finish if one side didn't line up quite right go back to Perspective Warp and make another Panel and move it.
This is a much simpler way to accomplish the same result.
I create this image in my new video tutorial. It's all about Giants ;)
I shot the background in Dubai and the models in the studio ;)
If you like to see more: tutorial.adriansommeling.com
TUTORIAL ♥♥
A lot of people asked me how special shaped bokehs are done. I decided to put together a tutorial and explain things in details.
This is a single shot out of the camera! Nothing was added in Photoshop.
Special thanks to Tony who helped me with the picture formatting!
#28
Step 1 - Taking the Image
When I first started off using my DSLR, I knew diddly squat about camera settings, auto-bracketing, manual mode etc...
Experimenting with different settings, looking at various tips and tutorials have improved my knowledge vastly on this.
So here we go then…Firstly there are two main ways to create the source images needed for HDR.
- Autobracketing
- One raw image
Autobracketing:
Most DSLR camera’s have the ability to bracket multiple exposures. This is simply a way to tell the camera to take several shots in quick succession, each at different exposures. For example, in this image a -2, 0, +2 setting was used to take three shots.
When deciding on how many auto-bracketing exposures to use, you will need to consider the contrast range of the scene. If there is a higher contrast range, consider using a wider bracket setting.
Now this may not be possible on some cameras. My own Canon 400D only has the ability to bracket 3 shots, but some cameras are able to go as high as nine. Normally 3 exposures are suffice for me when shooting in interior locations, such as churches and other buildings.
When I do need more than 3 exposures, I normally take auto-bracketing off in Aperture Priority mode and fire out 5 or more shots by manually changing the shutter speed each time.
One RAW image:
The other way to produce the 3 shots needed is to take 1 photo and adjust it in a RAW editor such as Lightroom, Aperture or any other one you may use.
The main advantage with this is that you can produce a HDR shot with moving subjects such as cars and people. The downside from experience is that if an image contains dark shadows, the exposure adjusting followed by the HDR process has a tendency to create a lot of noise. The other thing that is debated quite often is that by taking 1 raw image, it doesn’t truly capture the full dynamic data range of a scene.
Camera Settings
-Shoot in RAW – it allows you to capture more dynamic range data than using JPEGs.
-Use a tripod. In some places this can be difficult, especially in churches. Alternatively, try and find some kind of ledge, bench, stack of books or take up an awkward stance and take the image handheld.
-Use Aperture Priority mode on your camera. As you will be combining several images into one, you don’t want your Depth of Field (DOF) to change between shots, as the final image will appear all out of focus.
-Keep the ISO setting to the minimum. The higher the ISO setting, the more noise it will generate. I try to keep mine at 100 whenever I can.
* You can enlarge any of the screenshots below, by clicking on the image and following the high resolution link from there.
** Update: I have loaded the 3 original hi-res exposures for you guys/gals to experiment with. Click on them below and then save. Have fun and it will be great to see what you can come up with.
*** Update 2 - Be sure to check out my latest tutorial which focuses more on the post processing techniques in Photoshop. You can find that tutorial here.
Oi meninas, final do ano a gente tem aquele monte de eventos né? É festinha disso, encerramento daquilo, coquetel, amigo secreto, festa de fim de ano da empresa... pensando nisso resolvi hj fazer uma make não muito cheguei, mas bem bonita pra esses tipos de evento.
Fotografei o passo a passo, mas tô com uma preguiça enorme de editar, vcs perdoam???? rs rs rs
O que usei:
- Fixador de Sombra Contém 1G
- Sombra Pérola do trio Hippie Chic NYX
- Sombra 06 Duda Molinos
- Sombra Marrom Cintilante Contém 1G
- Iluminador Sun Light Nivea
- Jumbo Eyeshadow cor Gold NYX
- RÃmel Ashtoning AVON
Depois eu aviso quando postar o tutorial tá?
I made this tutorial for my contacts who requested it after seeing Radiant. I didn't have the time to blur the sunset image in exactly the same way...but you get the idea. I used GIMP to edit this.
Okay, so if you don't want lightness lift, if your background is already a solid color (such as a clear blue sky), and if your image is already dark enough and you don't need to make it more bold, then you can start at STEP 5.
1. Original image
2. How to Add a Gradient
---a) Make a "new from visible" layer: Go to your "channels, undo, layers" box, and right-click your image thumbnail. At the top of the bar that pops up, should be "New From Visible". Select this. A new layer should appear above the old thumbnail.
---b) Add lightness lift:
*In your toolbox (which is the box on the left of your screen), there should be a tool called "Blend Tool". When you click the blend tool, the bottom of your toolbox will change. You must make the settings say:
Mode: Overlay
Opacity: 100%
Gradient: FB to BG (RGB) ***and make sure the box beside the gradient has a check mark in it
Shape: Radial
ALSO make note of the colored boxes just above the half-way mark in your toolbox. Black should be the front color, white should be the rectangle of color behind it.
THEN, click the middle of your image, and hold down the mouse while you drag your cursor to any outside corner of the image. Your gradient should appear.
3. Make another "New From Visible" layer. If your image has clouds in it, blur them in using the "Smudge Tool" in your toolbox.
4. IF YOUR IMAGE IS OVEREXPOSED (like mine is):
Make another "New From Visible" layer. Just above your thumbnails in the "Channels, Undo, Layers" toolbox, should be a grey square with a downwards arrow in it. (Between Mode and Opacity) Click it, and select multiply. This darkens your image.
5. Open up your sunset picture. Go under File --> Open as Layers--> and select your image to open it.
6. Your image should appear as a layer on top of the others. Just above your thumbnails in the "Channels, Undo, Layers" toolbox, should be a grey square with a downwards arrow in it. (Between Mode and Opacity) Click it, and select EITHER "Hard Light (like I did) or "Soft Light" (if you want less of the sunset to show though).
7. Using the smudge tool, blur any parts of the sunset that are on top of your main subject, or are too sharp.
8. Make another "New From Visible" layer, and add some color curves
This sweet little shamrock is my own original dsign. I've uploaded a tutorial on YouTube, so you can make this in around 5 minutes! Enjoy.
Want to make a neat semicircle tower for a gatehouse or other project? Then the latest tutorial on Brickbuilt is just what you need!
Tutorials | Creations | Featured Tutorials | Build Logs | Commissions
Gostaria do tutorial destes box, para passar para uma amiga muito querida Lelê Ceschini, se alguém tiver, agradeço!
bjos
This tutorial explains how I built the 45° roof of my Riften Watchtower, and also shows the method I used to make the plank siding underneath the roof-line.
Check it out on brickbuilt.
Working on a temple and decided to add an interior. Wanted to play around a bit with the floor and found some inspiration looking at -LittleJohn and Katie Walker’s work so I decided to make a tutorial :) Hopefully some people will find it useful. The full build should be done fairly soon so stay tuned ;)
I was hoping to put this tutorial up a while ago, but never got the chance to complete it until now. I received a lot of requests from people who wanted to know the workflow on the Times Square image(below). It’s fairly similar to my previous tutorial (the first few stages relating to the camera setup and Photomatix processing are pretty much the same), although this one concentrates more on the post processing in Adobe Photoshop.
If anyone wants to practice with the original images, let me know and I’ll upload them. You can see my original HDR tutorial here.
* You can enlarge any of the screenshots below, by clicking on the image which will take you through to the larger image.
The tutorial can also be found over on my blog http://blog.sandmania.co.uk.
This is the second tutorial geared around the frame warping and a little more on shadowing using PS CS2. Also see below for the first tutorial on creating a OOB as well. Please let me know of any errors or if you have questions here.