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As quite a number of you have asked here is how I do the texture.

First of all you do need to have Photoshop, I am sure you can do it in another way but I don't know that and maybe someone else does.

 

Oi gente....

 

Fiz um Tutorial (que tá hilário) de um look que eu uso de dia e de noite...

 

Veja aqui!!!

 

Estou aguardando o feedback de vcs, gente....

É a primeira vez q eu faço um vídeo e eu tava meio nervosa....rs...

 

Perdoem os erros, ok?!?

 

Espero opiniões e sugestões!!

E críticas tbm...

rs

 

Bjoooooos

 

EDIT

Meninas....

Disponibilizei o video numa qualidade melhor aki ó

When the worldwide Covidcorona shutdown happened, I decided to take my best photography tutorial from store.stuckincustoms.com and make it FREE so people could learn from the Beginning Photography videos while they were all cooped up. We just checked Shopify and we gave away $125,000+ worth so people really seem to love it! Anyway, this is a last warning that it will only last another 24 hours... so get on in there if you haven't yet!

I made a picture tutorial for creating this image. It was done digitally in Paint Shop Pro X. I made the tutorial for my Smudgepainting group here on Flickr and for all my Digitalnuts friends.

www.pbase.com/skyopal/image/80599990

This is actually really old but yesterday I noticed I never posted it, so here it is, a tutorial on light stencils.

 

www.youtube.com/watch?v=k9A9H41u9wk

 

www.noctography.co.uk

I have told you about GIMP, a free Image Manipulation Program. It works really well, and I´d say as well as Photoshop, and the bonus...IT´S FREE!

 

I took the originals of few of my photos that I´ve manipulated in Photoshop and re-did them in GIMP, getting the same results.

 

But as always, it´s best to start slowly and get to know the program and first of all, learn how to download GIMP. For those of you who don´t have gimp, here is a link to how to download it:

www.flickr.com/photos/soffia/2339766783/

  

The tutorial with explanation images is here: www.soffia.net/gimptutorial02.html

  

1. Select from the menu: File → Open and choose the Image you´re gonna work with

 

2. Select from the menu: Colors → Brightness-Contrast...

 

3. Drag the slider up to 20 or write the number 20 in the box next to contrast. Click OK. Play around with different numbers in both brightness and contrast.

This tutorial is done in Photoshop CS3, and you need some basic knowlegde to follow it. The numbers are the exact ones I used.

 

Step by step snapshots at www.soffia.net/tutorial.html

  

1. I duplicade the layer twise, on one layer I erase out carefully the mountain with soft eraser, opacity 100 flow around 60. (you can also use masks) One layer is just to have the photo as it is.

 

2. Name the layers ( image01) mountains, clouds and just_in_case_layer.

 

3. Go to creatae new fill or adjustment layer and choose Levels. (Image 02) I tweeked the 3 arrows untill I got 8 ~ 0,73 ~ 200

 

4. Go to creatae new fill or adjustment layer again but this time choose Brightness/Contrast. and put in -12 for brightness and contr. -28 (Image03)

 

5. Go to creatae new fill or adjustment layer again and choose Hue/Saturation. (Image 04)

take up saturation to 22

 

6. For now, I´m fairly happy with the mountains, so now I drag the Clouds layer on top of all the layers. (Image 05)

 

7. Then I merge the mountains with all the adjustment layers by selecting all the layers, and choose merge layers (Image 06)Name the Layer mountains again if it´s called hue/saturation.

 

8. Now we can work on the clouds, you can turn off the mountains layer by clicking on the eye on the left. Go to creatae new fill or adjustment layer and choose Levels. (Image 02) I tweeked the 3 arrows untill I got 18 ~ 0,84 ~ 215

  

9. I want a little more contrast in the big cloud so duplicade the clouds layer, name it cloud-contrast go to Image - Adjustment - Levels. Use 59~ 0,64~ 195. The reason why I choose levels from there is cause I only want it to affect the new cloud layer(Image 07)

 

10. with the cloud-contrast layer picked, go to Image - Adjustment - Brightness/Contrast and put brightness to +36 and contrast +17

 

11. I find the cloud too red, so go to Image - Adjustment - hue/saturation, in Edit: choose

Reds and take the saturation down to -42. After that I rease around it so the layer would look like this (Image 08)

 

12. Let´s go to the Clouds layer again, Go to creatae new fill or adjustment layer and choose Brightness/Contrast. put in +45 for brightness (Image03)

 

13. Go to create new fill or adjustment layer (Image 04) and choose Hue/Saturation. In Edit:

Blues hue: -13 sat: -67

Cyans hue: -10 sat: -57 (or tweek the numbers untill you´re happy with the colors......)

 

15. Merge the layers by selecting Cloud-contrast,clouds and the all the adjustment layers(image 06) (you can also select the layers and hit Ctrl + E )

 

16. Turn on the Mountains Layer. Flatten image. Then I did some more adjucstment with hue/sat, cyan -9 and -39 then blues -4 and -22 and Yelloes -35. And then I went to levels and did 8 ~ 1,16 ~ 255.

 

17. Then I put the lomo gradient fill with 40 % opacity on that layer

 

I did use the clone stamp to erase out a part of the sky, the dark bottom part... :P

 

And finally I ran it through Neat Image, a software I bought the other day. neatimage.com/

  

I could probably spend another hour tweeking and tuning. But let´s say this done for now.

     

This Bunny was based on this tutorial: tutsplus.

It took me a little while - and now I see that I have chosen the wrong export cmyk instead of rgb. UPDATED: its changed back to the right colors :-)

1 » foto original;

2 » Selecione o rosto sem selecionar olhos, boca e narinas;

3 » Após selecionar, copie (ctrl+c), cole (ctrl+v) e duplique a camada colada (ctrl+j). Na cama da meio, aplique um desfoque gaussiano (Menu Filtro/Desfoque/Desfoque gaussiano/5,0 OK). Na última camada (a de cima), você vai aplicar uma alta frequencia (Menu Filtro/Outros/Alta Frequencia - high pass/1,5 OK). A imagem ficará cinza, então mude para sobrepor (overlay) e una as camadas. Obs.: Caso precise arrumar alguma coisa que ficou "embaçada demais", vá na camada do desfoque gaussiano e passe uma borracha macia com uma opacidade baixa.

4 » Boca: Selecione a boca e vá em Menu Camada/Nova camada de preenchimento/Cor sólida. Escolha uma cor que fique boa pra boca e clique em OK. Caso fique borrado, é só usar a borracha macia (sempre usando a borracha macia =))

5 » Como fica a camada =)

6 » Olhos (oba!): Os olhos são que nem a boca. Você seleciona onde você quer a sombra e o lápis. Nesse passo, fiz o lápis e o delineador. Junto à foto tem as camadas. =)

7 » Mesma coisa. Selecione os olhos e pinte com o preenchimento de camada. Caso precise, dê um desfoque gaussiano pra ficar mais realista e tire um pouco da opacidade ou use a borracha, também. Mudei a cor dos olhos, também. Deixei mais viva a cor. É o mesmo passo. =)

8 » Como os olhos ficaram e o blush, que é a mesma coisa. Selecione as maçãs do rosto e vão em Menu Camada/Nova camada de preenchimento/Cor sólida/Escolha a cor OK e tire a opacidade. Será necessário dar uma desfocada (ctrl+f, caso tenha sido o último filtro que você usou =))

9 » Resultado.

 

Espero que tenham gostado e que eu tenha ajudado! hehe.

Qualquer dúvida, perguntem! =D

 

ln questi lunghi giorni di isolamento da Coronavirus, mi sono divertito con alcuni tutorial rovati in internet, in pareticolare con il tutorial denominato "effetto caleidoscopio"

 

In these long days of isolation from Coronavirus, I enjoyed some tutorials found on the internet, in particular with the tutorial called "kaleidoscope effect"

 

PRESS "L"

After closing all five triangles. We turned it upside down.

Hey everyone. Here's a basic tutorial for the wall technique that you can find in my Wizard's Gate build.

 

1. Start with a row of headlight bricks attached together. This row can be as long as you want the wall to be.

 

2. Place one plate on the front-most headlight bricks and two plates on the bricks that are further back. add headlight bricks, alternating studs on the back row and 1x1 tiles on the front.

 

3. Attatch 1x1 with one stud out to the headlight bricks and 1x1 bricks to the studs left on the front row.

 

4. Add alternating clips on top of the front row as seen in the picture.

 

5. Attach 1x1 and 1x2 plates onto the clips leaving a small gap between each to achieve a stonework effect. In long sections of this wall, you will run out of space to slide the 1x2 tiles along the clip to acheive the horizontal gap. But that's ok! Just skip one stud and continue the pattern with the clips attached to the other side of the 1x2 plates.

 

6. You can achieve a streamlined base to the wall using a bracket or any other half plate offset and three plates on top of that. The wall is 3.5 plates out from the headlight bricks and 7 plates above the initial starting plate. Feel free to use your own brickmath to close those gaps, I just showed what worked for me.

 

Hope that this helps anyone who was wondering how the wall was constructed. Feel free to try it out for yourself!

  

My friend, "pixels in my head" sent me a tutorial for the "lomo effect" and I had to try it. The original version of this image is posted 5 photos before this one. I don't know if I accomplished the desired effect, but it is fun. Please check out Dewaun's photostream to see his lomo effect image:

www.flickr.com/photos/dewaun/304521245/

He has also posted the tutorial website.

What do you think? I'm going to have to experiment some more...

Tutorial.

 

Duplicate layer, right click on layer and choose duplicate layer, name it 01.

 

Now you have 2 Layers, called Background and 01. Make sure the 01 layer is chosen.

 

Go to Layer - New Adjustment layer - Brightness Contrast. brightness 0 contrast +17

 

Go to Layer - New Adjustment layer - Levels - the numbers are 12, 1,00, 215.

  

Now I´m happy with the sky for now, so now we´ll fix the rocks in the forground.

  

Duplicate the Background layer, name it 02, and drag it on top of all the layers.

 

Go to Image - Adjustment layer - Levels ( nb, now go to IMAGE not LAYER) Set it to 17 , 1,91 , 196

 

With the Erase tool(or Masks) erase the sky and the hill.

 

Go to Layer - New Adjustment layer - Hue/Saturation. Choose:

Cyan, -18, -31, 0

Blues, -16, -23, 0

  

And finally I put a little lomo vignette ( how to? you´ll find that here www.flickr.com/photos/soffia/1398672858/in/set-7215760238...

The opacity on the vignette layer on this photo here is 50%

In this advanced Photoshop tutorial I will show you how to create a nice floating woman in a forest. We will turn the forest from day to night effect in Photoshop and we will mask the sky using Calculations. We will create realistic depth of field using a Depth Map and we’ll paint realistic hair and light effects.

 

Tutorial here: www.psdbox.com/tutorials/fantasy-photoshop-tutorial-float...

Ever wondered how to build good tudor style walls?

Check out our latest tutorial by Titus V. on brickbuilt.

Hey everyone.

 

Isaac and John asked me to write a small tutorial for my waterfall design to be featured on their awesome site www.brickbuilt.org/.

Check it out here!

I create this image in my new video tutorial. It's all about Giants ;)

 

I shot the background in Dubai and the models in the studio ;)

 

If you like to see more: tutorial.adriansommeling.com

 

TUTORIAL ♥♥

A lot of people asked me how special shaped bokehs are done. I decided to put together a tutorial and explain things in details.

  

This is a single shot out of the camera! Nothing was added in Photoshop.

    

Special thanks to Tony who helped me with the picture formatting!

 

#28

  

Just wrote this for a friend and figured I might as well share it with everyone :)

 

This is for Its An Addiction group tutorial discussion here

  

Si quieres ver el tutorial completo, paso a paso, para forrar cajas de regalo, entra en

Bueno bonito y barato

Many of you have requested a Poseable Arms Tutorial, so here it is, as promised! I explained the best I can, but if you have further questions, don't hesitate to ask. Have extra pieces in case of an accident; you may need multiple test trials for this (I know I did :P). I hope you can use this tutorial to improve your figures! View on all sizes for close-ups on the instructions.

 

What you will need:

 

-Torso - www.bricklink.com/PL/973.jpg?1

-Arms - www.bricklink.com/PL/981982.jpg?0

-Old skeleton arm - www.bricklink.com/PL/6265.gif?0

-Lever - www.bricklink.com/PL/4593.gif?0

-A crafting knife

-Superglue

 

-Andrew

Oi meninas, final do ano a gente tem aquele monte de eventos né? É festinha disso, encerramento daquilo, coquetel, amigo secreto, festa de fim de ano da empresa... pensando nisso resolvi hj fazer uma make não muito cheguei, mas bem bonita pra esses tipos de evento.

Fotografei o passo a passo, mas tô com uma preguiça enorme de editar, vcs perdoam???? rs rs rs

 

O que usei:

- Fixador de Sombra Contém 1G

- Sombra Pérola do trio Hippie Chic NYX

- Sombra 06 Duda Molinos

- Sombra Marrom Cintilante Contém 1G

- Iluminador Sun Light Nivea

- Jumbo Eyeshadow cor Gold NYX

- Rímel Ashtoning AVON

 

Depois eu aviso quando postar o tutorial tá?

Gostaria do tutorial destes box, para passar para uma amiga muito querida Lelê Ceschini, se alguém tiver, agradeço!

bjos

This tutorial explains how I built the 45° roof of my Riften Watchtower, and also shows the method I used to make the plank siding underneath the roof-line.

 

Check it out on brickbuilt.

See the tutorial on my Youtube channel here: KosBrick

 

I always love minifigure and have a small collection of it, but they have very limited pose. So here are my tricks on how to get them having more kungfu-fighting pose like what I saw on the trailer for the upcoming Shang-Chi movie.

 

Since I live in Indonesia on the far side of the world, there's no Shang-Chi set available in our Lego store yet and that's the reason why I make my own custom Shang-Chi fig. My thoughts was if I can't buy it, why not make one myself :) Though it's far from perfect but I'm very happy with it :)

 

The first time I saw this trick was made by Kai/Geneva, he brilliantly manage to pose a fig doing a high kick with 2x2 bracket. Here I try to use other different alternative part to achieve that.

 

If you have other tips and tricks, let me know in the comment. Hope it can be useful :)

 

Custom decal download link can be found on my Youtube video description.

▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬

Poke me at:

▌ My Youtube

▌ My Instagram

▌ My Facebook

▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬

This can be done in 2 ways. The Vanishing Point Filter is one way and there are dozens of Tutorials to show you how. But the much simpler way is to put your background and type on 2 layers. Then go to Edit, Perspective Warp. You will see two modes on the top left corner of your screen one says Layout, then other says Warp. Be sure you are on the Text Layer.

With the Layout screen you can make your Panels to go around your text. Be sure you have a straight line on the divider. You can move these anywhere to cover your text. Make another panel for the other side, start it very close to the first panel. When you are done just join the Links to combine them.

Then clip on Warp. Nothing happens. but now when you move the panel links you can line up your type perfectly on the lines.

When you finish if one side didn't line up quite right go back to Perspective Warp and make another Panel and move it.

This is a much simpler way to accomplish the same result.

Working on a temple and decided to add an interior. Wanted to play around a bit with the floor and found some inspiration looking at -LittleJohn and Katie Walker’s work so I decided to make a tutorial :) Hopefully some people will find it useful. The full build should be done fairly soon so stay tuned ;)

This is the second tutorial geared around the frame warping and a little more on shadowing using PS CS2. Also see below for the first tutorial on creating a OOB as well. Please let me know of any errors or if you have questions here.

  

Okay, so I made this tutorial a while back, and I shared it on my Facebook MOC page.

I've got the link to the rest of the tutorial below!It's relatively simple and decently sturdy. Plus, IMO it fits in pretty good with an Oriental setting. :)

 

Enjoy and God bless!

 

www.facebook.com/LEGObyNelson/photos/pcb.1083726751661965...

hilarywagstaff.tumblr.com

 

Hope its not to hard to follow though it comes out in a funny order so read it all through first.

NEW VIDEO! iPhone Photography Tutorial: Lippen - Surreal Portrait #04 #video

 

Check link on my Instagram profile for my channel. OR here’s for direct link to video: youtu.be/Ok9e_PtsUGU

 

Enjoy!

 

#surreal #icolorama #superimpose #lensdistortions #mextures #iphoneart #mobileart #iphoneonly

#instagram #mobileartistry #shotaward #artsick #fineartphg #expofilm #enter_imagination #graphicroozane #thecreativers #manipulationteam #moodcommunity #launchdsigns #milliondollarvisuals #imaginativeuniverse

#iphoneography #iphone #photography

These are the tutorials I managed to put together during 2018. Not that many, but still a number of them. Most of them were nature themed, and about half of them were a result of my Element Experimentation builds.

 

Making tutorials is a rather different experience as compared to normal building. It takes a great deal of time and effort to put a tutorial together, compared to making regular builds. You have to take many pictures, think through the flow of the technique and write good descriptive texts for each picture. Tutorials also play out differently on different platforms, so often you have to create multiple versions of the tutorial to fit the platforms you post on.

 

Also, for me, pretty much all tutorials I make are of techniques I've already showcased in builds before, so tutorials doesn't bring anything new to the table - it just shows how a previously used technique is made.

 

These two things combined makes tutorial making more of a chore than fun, to be honest. It's a lot of work and it doesn't result in a nice new build. So why do it?

 

I have personally learned loads from tutorials made by others, and so I have reaped the benefits of their hard work with very little effort on my side. So, making tutorials of your techniques is a way of contributing back to the LEGO community. It may not be the most fun, or get you the most likes or comments, but it's still a satisfying experience knowing that you have given something back.

 

And of course it puts a smile on your face when you see people starting to use your techniques in their own builds :) I have noticed that both my spruce techniques are seeing quite some use these days, so that's something I'm really happy about :)

 

instagram

fullplatebuilds.com

If you have ever struggled with making a round roof, you'll definitely want to check out this tutorial by Cozei on brickbuilt.

This is a visual of one way to improve dark eyes. There are several other things you can do including using a hue/sat adjustment layer combined with it's mask to eliminate color in the whites of the eyes. It's not shown here. LARGE IN SEPARATE WINDOW

So I finally completed a tutorial on the tree technique used in some of latest MOCs and you can find it here:

 

Spruce Tutorial

 

Feel free to let me know what you think of it, and if there's anything that can be improved upon. Hope you will like it and find it useful :)

 

Planning on making a few more tutorials that some of you have requested, now that I have some time, so keep an eye out for them :)

 

instagram

fullplatebuilds.com

www.soffia.net/tutorial.html

 

Hi guys.

I´ve been getting many emails where people are asking me how

I work my photos

so I thought you´d like a tutorial.

 

Well, this is the first time I do a tutorial. I hope

it makes sence. If you find this helpful

I ´ll try to find a photo that needs a massive

work, and do another one, with more steps and screenshots.

This tutorial is made with Photoshop version 8.0, and a basic

knowledge to do this tutorial helps.

  

STEP 1

duplicate layer, name it sky

 

STEP 2

with layer we called sky, go to

IMAGE - AJUSTMENTS - LEVELS

and put in the numbers

68

1,38

255

  

go to IMAGE - AJUSTMENTS - hue saturation

-12

-55

0

  

STEP 3

name the background layer mountain (turn off the sky layer)

go to IMAGE - AJUSTMENTS - LEVELS

 

49

1,03

217

 

STEP 4

turn on sky layer, and with that layer selected, erase everything but the sky

 

STEP5

duplicate sky layer, name it blur

 

go to filter - blur - gaussian blur 8,4%

  

STEP 6

erase everything but the blue tones with a soft brush to make the clouds in focus

and bring down the opacity of the brush at some points

 

STEP 7

merge sky layer and blur layer and name it sky

at the sky layer go to:

 

levels

44

1,00

255

 

hue-sat and change Cyans, blues and master.

Cyans

-5

-38

0

 

blues

-7

-28

0

 

master

0

-18

0

 

STEP 8

go to mountain layer

 

levels

31

1,00

255

 

at last I put on a radical gradient

with 50% opacity, to do the vignette

(make new gradient from gray to white, with

opacity at ca 70% on the gray part)

This is what I basically do, with some

images I duplicade layers again and again

to ajust the levels, and the hue sat untill I´m

happy. I sometimes use gaussian blur at the sky

if it´s noise after all the ajustments, and then

erase the clouds part to get the focus.

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