View allAll Photos Tagged Tutorial
Nachdem heute Polymeramoi das Tutorial cane effilochée 1 veröffentlich hat, und meine Variante eine andere ist, kann ich mein Tutorial auch zur Verfügung stellen!
After today Polymeramoi has published her tutorial effilochée 1 , and my version is different, I can put my tutorial also available!
Just finished putting together a short tutorial for crabby! He was made for round one of the scrappy pincushion swap.
blogged about {with link to the tutorial} here: craftnosis.blogspot.com/2010/09/crabby-pinnie-tutorial.html
I would LOVE to see a photo if you make one :D
Wahh I finally finished these few parts. Sorry for the long wait. i will continue to update the parts probably this weekend! ; - ; I hope you will like the tutorial > < <3
View it in original size!
Here's the easiest way (for me) to explain how I do that halftone effect thing. If this isn't clear, post questions in the comments.
Mais um tutorial que eu achei na net e traduzi.
Projeto original do site www.dragoknit.blogspot.com
Translated tutorial from www.dragoknit.blogspot.com
huhu
petitplatbysk.blogspot.com/2009/10/tutorial-lemon-cane-an...
And yeah it's free, I know, I'm just such a kind person XD
Here is my first tutorial... I made the photos with our family's 2nd camera as the boys took the 1st camera on their bicycle tour today.
I made this tutorial for all those who wondered how I made my sculptural series, and to thank all polymeristas who so willingly shared their knowledge in the past and who helped me to be where I am today.
And that's the finished plant.
You can see that giving the leaves more dimension with the ball tool helps a lot.
Hope you had fun to watch this mini tutorial : )!
(This tutorial was greatly inspired by Sandra's tutorial posted here and on her lovely blog bonequea.com. Go check it out, if you haven't already seen it : )!)
in the latest issue of Digital SLR Photography Magazine :)
Details on their facebook page: www.facebook.com/DigitalSLRPhoto/photos/a.371534892873930...
*your
Is it bad I'm too lazy to go back and fix the grammar? haha.
Anyway, here is another nail tutorial. This time for press on nail extensions! This is easier than it looks, but it does take time and is a little tedious. Let me know if you have any questions! :)
Wahh I finally finished these few parts. Sorry for the long wait. i will continue to update the parts probably this weekend! ; - ; I hope you will like the tutorial > < <3
View it in original size!
Tutorial on the blog - make a cloud cushion with removable cover & custom pillow insert:
acuppaandacatchup.com/2012/08/liberty-scrap-challenge-aug...
Finally finished this tutorial on LEGO mech head building :D Basically it details the step-by-step process I use to build a mech head from scratch and I also explain certain techniques that I've used.
Read all about it over at my blog :D
messymaru.wordpress.com/2017/02/07/tutorial-designing-and...
- - -
Visit my LEGO mech blog:
Facebook: www.facebook.com/MessyWorksLEGO
Twitter: Twitter.com/Messymaru
Gurias, dica bacana do site www.noodle-head.com/2010/04/gathered-clutch-tutorial.html , a necessaire franzidinha fica linda!!!!!!!!!!! Aproveitem... Bjs e boa semana...
Quando eu postei aqui minhas unhas degradê muitas de vocês gostaram e me perguntaram como eu fiz, então eu resolvi montar esse tutorial bem básico explicando.
1- Primeiro você pinta a unha normalmente com o esmalte escolhido, neste caso o confeti da Impala.
2- Passe, na unha toda, uma camada de um esmalte que não seja tão concentrado, nesse caso o Ametista da Mohda, que além de ser ralo tem glitter que dá todo um charme.
3- Vá passando mais camadas do segundo esmalte, sempre começando a pincelada um pouco mais pra cima da pincelada anterior, conforme vou mostrando na sequência de fotos.
4- Finalize com uma camada de extra brilho ou roxinho.
É só isso... fácil demais.
Eu acho essa técnica muito mais fácil que a da esponja, que eu não consigo fazer de jeito nenhum!
Fica aqui a dica pra quem quiser fazer uma unha mais diferente e sem muito trabalho, dá até pra usar agora no natal, usando vermelho e dourado ou essas outras cores de natal!
Qualquer dúvida pergunta!
Gostaram?
Looking for another way to build a round tower? Try this tutorial on Brickbuilt.
Tutorials | Creations | Featured Tutorials | Build Logs | Commissions
A tutorial showing how to make a tree made mostly out of travis bricks and 1x1 plates in the your colour of your choice :)
You can find the tutorial here:
fullplatebuilds.com/2018/12/17/travis-tree-tutorial/
Hope you find it useful! :D
Step by step tutorial on my blog: steffyghost.wordpress.com/2012/02/27/heart-on-window-tuto...
Make sure you share your heart on the window pics. <3
Ben offers a great alternative to standard studs up cobblestone in the latest featured tutorial on Brickbuilt.
Tutorials | Creations | Featured Tutorials | Build Logs | Commissions
Eye shadows are very important in the makeup steps. Smokey eye makeup is a very tricky thing to do. If you are not a makeup expert and you lack incentive for making makeup, it doesn’t mean you cannot do anything. All you have to do is learn some tricks for Smokey eye makeup...
A lot of beginners overlook the importance of colour correction in post-processing, but it is an essential step in any strong workflow. This tutorial will show you a great way to restore natural colours in your images, and create a balanced image, free from colour cast.
If you know any other photographers who would appreciate this tutorial, please feel free to share it :D
Join 1,000s of photographers in using the free Easy Panel for Photoshop: www.throughstrangelenses.com/easy-panel-download-for-phot...
Learn to create stunning images, with instantly downloadable, high quality video courses: Cityscape Tutorials & Luminosity Mask Tutorial & HDR Tutorial
Allsizes, its a little bigger
I've been getting a lot of requests to do tutorials on the colorings I do. Now, I can't do tutorials on EVERY coloring I do because that would take forever, and I don't even remember how I do half of them because honestly, I just mess around until I like it haha. But I've finally made two coloring tutorials for you all, thanks for being so patient with me since I've been promising these since forever.
Before I start I apologize for my explaining-skills, they're not that good hah. And on top of that, English isn't my first language as you might know..so be easy on me. I'm gonna explain it from scratch, so yes, in the beginning its like photoshop-for-dummies. (No offense if you're having trouble with them)
Also, colorings turn out different on each photo. So if these look weird on the photo you chose, you probably did nothing wrong..its just the photo.
These tutorials are made in Photoshop CS4, but usable for any version of Photoshop. Okay, enough talking. Lets get to business.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
COLORING ONE
STEP 1.
First, open Photoshop (omgosh, I know.. take a breath!). Now open a new blank file (FILE >NEW), I made mine size 450x600.. but this is up to you.
So, this is what you should have right now :
Now place your photo want to use (FILE > PLACE) and make it the size you want. Your screen should be like this now :
This is optional, but usually I sharpen the photos because they are quite blurry. And even if they're not, sharpening just adds something to them.
So, go to FILTER > SHARPEN > SHARPEN
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
STEP 2.
The picture I chose is quite dark, so I'm gonna lighten it a bit. I'm gonna do this with CURVES.
This is where you find this option :
Once you click this, you will get this on your screen :
Now, just randomly drag the line to a direction. When you do this you will be able to change the numbers that say INPUT and OUTPUT :
These are the settings I used :
INPUT 209, OUTPUT 227
If your photo is still too dark (or bright) play around with these a little.
This is what I have now :
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
STEP 3.
Now were gonna do apply a SOLID COLOR, this can be found here :
After clicking this a screen will appear with a color dock on it. In the lower corner there is a little section where you can add the code to a color you want to use :
This is the code you'll need to paste in there to get the color were gonna use : c7c67c .. which is green-ish. Now you can't see your image. Not good. Were gonna put the solid color on SOFT LIGHT so we can see it again :
It looks pretty nasty now, but this is what mine looks like :
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
STEP 4.
Okay so we need to get rid of this green slime look. Its not the KCA's now is it? Now were gonna apply a SELECTIVE COLORING , this is where you can find it :
Now, this little screen with swatches will pop up :
Where it says REDS, you are able to choose which colors in the photo you want to accentuate or fade. In this first selective coloring were only adjusting the
REDS, CYANS and BLUES. These are the settings I used :
REDS
-100
+59
0
0
CYANS
+89
0
-100
0
BLUES
+100
0
-100
0
Not much difference, but this is what I have now :
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
STEP 5.
Final step! Are you still holding on? So, were gonna do another selective coloring now. This time were only going to adjust the REDS, NEUTRALS and BLACKS
REDS
-100
+71
+100
0
NEUTRALS
+70
-12
-56
0
BLACKS
0
0
0
+100
If the blues are still to dominant, make another selective coloring and repeat what you did on the BLACKS on this one.
That was it! Please tell me if you're having trouble. And I'd love to see your resuslts! This is my result :
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
COLORING TWO
First repeat STEP 1 & 2 of coloring one :)
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
STEP 3
The first thing we need to do is to make a HUE/SATURATION layer. This is where you can find it :
Now this little dock will appear, with three swatches on it :
The settings I used are :
HUE : -59
SATURATION : -26
LIGHTNESS : 0
Don't panic, I know.. the picture looks pretty weird now. I made Demi look like Barney, as in the dinosaur :
Obviously we don't want it to stay like this, so were gonna put the layer on SOFT LIGHT :
A lot better huh?
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
STEP 4
Next thing we need to do, is to make a COLOR BALANCE :
Another small dock will appear, put the first swatch on +19 :
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
STEP 5
Now its time for a CHANNEL MIXER :
A small dock will appear, with three swatches. The first one will already be set to +100, change this to +94 :
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
STEP 6
Now a step thats a little more difficult, but I'll try to get you through. Embrace yourselves. Were gonna do a CURVES layer :
The same dock as in the previous tutorial will appear. The little bar at the top that says RGB can also be set to Red, Green and Blue.
We will only change the settings for the RGB, Red and Blue.
First the RBG. If you did the previous tutorial too, you now know that you will first have to randomly drag the line to a direction so you'll be able to change the settings in the INPUT and OUTPUT boxes.
But the difference this time is that we have to make two points instead of one, so after putting in the settings for the first point you randomly drag another part of the line to fill in the settings for the other point.
The settings for RBG POINT 1 are:
INPUT : 157
OUTPUT : 144
POINT 2,
INPUT : 209
OUTPUT : 205
Now the reds, which only has one point :
INPUT : 170
OUTPUT : 176
And as last, the blues. Which has two points :
POINT 1,
INPUT : 30
OUTPUT : 32
POINT 2,
INPUT : 233
OUTPUT : 235
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
STEP 7
You're still holding on? Okay good. This step is easy, its a SOLID COLOR layer :
The color you need to fill it with is called : 150a05 :
Set this layer to DIFFERENCE and bring the opacity down to 50% :
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
STEP 8
The final step! Its a BRIGHTNESS/CONTRAST layer :
The settings I used :
BRIGNTNESS : -6
CONTRAST : +22
And were done! My result :
Now remember, it works differently on every photo. Show me your results! :)
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
- follow/ask :)
See how to build your own fireplace like this in the latest guide on Brickbuilt!
Tutorials | Creations | Featured Tutorials | Build Logs | Commissions
Full color photo tutorial over on Moda Bake Shop:: www.modabakeshop.com/2011/02/sunkissed-squares.html
1. Start with clean, freshly pressed fabric, 2. Skirt pattern pieces, 3. Pin your pattern pieces to your fabric, 4. Fray check all edges, 5. Press the bottom hem ~ 1/4", 6. Sew bottom hem, 7. Gather top edge with a long stitch, 8. Gather, 9. Pin right sides together, 10. Sew below the gathered threads, 11. Press the seam you just made flat then press the top part of the skirt down so the raw edges meet, 12. Sew a casing 1/4" wide, 13. Cut a piece of elastic 4" long, 14. Use a bodkin to pull the elastic through the casing, 15. Pin elastic once it is at the edges, 16. Pin the skirt back together, 17. Sew the back seam, 18. Turn right side out, 19. Voila!,
Created with fd's Flickr Toys
Design: Masha Athanasiadi
Thank you, Masha, for giving me permission to demonstrate your wonderful design!
30 modules, Ratio: square, No glue!
YT Tutorial: youtu.be/uApXZOyK4u4
Article to this design: origamitutorials.com/argyle-kusudama-tutorial/
Imagem ret da net
picasaweb.google.com/anicamaria958/TutorialLapiceros#5444...
A Marta Basteiro já postou há algum tempo, e agora mexendo no Picasa achei o tutorial... Divirtam-se!!!
You asked for it- and now it’s FINALLY here.
A tutorial on how to “Process DSLR Star Shots.”
I chose three images that represent the challenges I commonly face in editing my star shots, shot by three different cameras, and spanning different skill levels. I have recorded, with a screen capture program, my editing process from RAW import to JPEG export, with a voice narration explaining what is going on. In the image above you can see the beginning and end of each photo.
The image on the left was taken by Rich Worell in Maine. He saw my first tutorial on how to shoot star photos and got really excited to go out and give it a try. With his Nikon D40, he took this picture his first night. I asked him if I could use it as an example for this tutorial since it is very much like what many of our first pictures of the stars look like. With the beginner in mind, the editing on this shot will show you how to draw as much as you can from your image. It is also a great example of how to handle an image from an older generation DSLR.
The image in the middle is a traditional Milky Way picture, taken with my Canon 5d Markii. It was chosen to represent the potential in RAW files of the latest generation of DSLR’s and spend some time on how to turn those Milky Way shots into some attention grabbers. It also gives tips on eliminating undesirable light pollution and maintaining a consistent , natural gradient of color in the sky from the horizon to deeper space.
The image on the right is one of mine from earlier last year, taken with my Canon 30D. It represents a more complex image with a foreground element, mixed color hues, some Milky Way, and challenges of processing a RAW file from an older camera. In this video, I show tools that can give you customizable ways to correct tricky mixed color temperatures to bring balance to the image.
As I stated before, this tutorial will come by a donation. The information in the videos represents 3 yrs of shooting star photos, and all the time spent trying to edit them as best as I can. A donation of $20 will give you a password to play the video tutorials.
I know that is a bit steep in regards to videos online, but I have made these more as a personal workshop not just an online video. In fact, there are 14 videos in total, spanning more than an hour of on-screen, voice narrated star editing. In comparison to how much it would cost to attend a workshop in a classroom doing the same thing of watching someone edit on a big screen while they guide you through it- I believe the amount is quite fair.
I do all my editing on Adobe Lightroom 3. I believe it has the MOST powerful and simplest Noise Reduction, which is a huge priority for night shots. It also has great customizable masking tools that are intuitive and easy to use. Because of those factors, and that a 30 day fully functional, free download trial is available at Adobe.com, I have used that program for all processing on the tutorials.
If you are interested, you can find more information and instructions on how to make a donation and receive the password by going here:
Thanks for visiting and reading!
This treatment fixes stickiness in doll hair caused by glue seepage, greasy doll hair (from oil based hair products or straight up oil), and stiff hair (caused from too much hair product like gel or hair spray). If regular shampoos and boil washes do not fix these issues for you, this treatment does the trick!
SUPPLIES
-Bowl
-Oxy Clean powder (substitute for equal parts hydrogen peroxide and washing soda)
-Fine tooth comb
-Dish soap/shampoo
STEPS
#1: Wash and condition your doll's hair first if you feel like it is dirty or if the doll has hardness from glue seepage. It helps to get off any excess product or glue beforehand. However you can skip this step if your doll has already recently been cleaned.
#2: Heat up water in the microwave for a few minutes. The water does not have to be bubbling, but I prefer it to be the same temperature I would usually do for a boil wash.
#3: Add in around one to two teaspoons of Oxy Clean powder (or more if your doll has very thick hair), or the hydrogen peroxide/washing soda substitute (make sure you use the same amount of both).
#4: Make sure all the powder is evenly mixed and fully dissolved. Use your comb to stir it if necessary.
#5: Dunk the doll's head into the water/Oxy Clean mix. Let him/her sit in the water for a little bit, and then remove the doll and comb the hair with your fine tooth comb.
#5: Repeat this process several times. Basically you are boil washing the doll, but in this special treatment.
#6: Once you have spent a few minutes combing the doll's hair out, let him/her sit in the water for at least an hour. It won't hurt if you leave the doll in overnight.
#7: Once you have let your doll soak for the desired amount of time, rinse the Oxy Clean out thoroughly. Make sure to get it all out using dish soap or shampoo. I like to wash the doll's hair at least twice after this treatment.
#8: Let the doll air dry, and voila, his/her hair should be fixed! If you would like, you can condition the doll's hair before letting them dry, but this step isn't necessary, as the Oxy Clean leaves it shiny and soft.
***IMPORTANT NOTES***
*The active ingredients in Oxy Clean are washing soda and peroxide. This is why you can make your own solution if Oxy Clean is not available to you. I personally recommend buying the actual powder as it can be found at dollar stores for just $1 and has scents added to it.
*This treatment can be repeated for very stubborn dolls. Consider the length/thickness of the doll's hair when choosing the amount of Oxy Clean powder to use. More will be needed for a doll with thick or very long hair.
*You will want a decently sized bowl for this treatment so the doll's hair has plenty of room to spread out and soak in the mixture. If you attempt to do this in a very small mug or bowl, you won't get the same results.
*I personally recommend the powder Oxy Clean rather than the liquid kind as it seems more potent, but you can certainly see if the liquid version works for you.
*For dolls with kanekalon hair, make sure the hot water is not too warm, as this hair type is more heat sensitive. Sometimes it will ball up in a boil wash if it is too hot, and while this is easily fixed, it will take you more time in the long run to sort out your doll's hair.
*The doll's head does not need to be removed for this treatment. However if you are concerned about more glue leaking from the inside of their scalps, feel free to remove their heads and let the mixture get inside their scalps.
*This treatment is safe, and should not harm your doll. I personally try not to let their face paint get into the water as a precaution, but there is no reason it will remove paint (I've accidentally gotten some on my dolls' faces before without incident).
*This treatment should also be safe for you to handle. If you have very sensitive skin, feel free to wear gloves. I have skin that tends to react badly to chemicals, but I've never had any issues handling the dolls while doing this treatment. Always make sure that the residue is fully washed off your hands and your doll when you are done.
*It's very important to take the time to comb the solution through the doll's hair as it helps evenly distribute it. This will ensure that you will most likely only have to do one soak.
*This treatment will leave your doll's hair smelling like the Oxy Clean, so make sure you pick a scent you like! If you use the hydrogen peroxide/washing soda solution, your doll will not be scented.
Video: