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Here's the easiest way (for me) to explain how I do that halftone effect thing. If this isn't clear, post questions in the comments.
More furniture designs explained in this guide on Brickbuilt.
Tutorials | Creations | Featured Tutorials | Build Logs | Commissions
Tutorial on the blog - make a cloud cushion with removable cover & custom pillow insert:
acuppaandacatchup.com/2012/08/liberty-scrap-challenge-aug...
Quando eu postei aqui minhas unhas degradê muitas de vocês gostaram e me perguntaram como eu fiz, então eu resolvi montar esse tutorial bem básico explicando.
1- Primeiro você pinta a unha normalmente com o esmalte escolhido, neste caso o confeti da Impala.
2- Passe, na unha toda, uma camada de um esmalte que não seja tão concentrado, nesse caso o Ametista da Mohda, que além de ser ralo tem glitter que dá todo um charme.
3- Vá passando mais camadas do segundo esmalte, sempre começando a pincelada um pouco mais pra cima da pincelada anterior, conforme vou mostrando na sequência de fotos.
4- Finalize com uma camada de extra brilho ou roxinho.
É só isso... fácil demais.
Eu acho essa técnica muito mais fácil que a da esponja, que eu não consigo fazer de jeito nenhum!
Fica aqui a dica pra quem quiser fazer uma unha mais diferente e sem muito trabalho, dá até pra usar agora no natal, usando vermelho e dourado ou essas outras cores de natal!
Qualquer dúvida pergunta!
Gostaram?
A tutorial showing how to make a tree made mostly out of travis bricks and 1x1 plates in the your colour of your choice :)
You can find the tutorial here:
fullplatebuilds.com/2018/12/17/travis-tree-tutorial/
Hope you find it useful! :D
Eye shadows are very important in the makeup steps. Smokey eye makeup is a very tricky thing to do. If you are not a makeup expert and you lack incentive for making makeup, it doesn’t mean you cannot do anything. All you have to do is learn some tricks for Smokey eye makeup...
After weeks of renovation, the downstairs room of the dollhouse addition is ready to furnish. This room served as a millinery shop when the addition was originally part of this house (I was 18). Since it has an exterior door, it may serve as a shop again sometime. I considered adding a fireplace along this wall like I did in each room of the main house, but I decided not to due to space. I regret that decision a little, but happy to have a full wall.
Wall paneling: Bristol board and cereal box cardboard
Doors: left is a faux door - House Works 6 panel interior door.
Took it apart and only used the door and the molding. Right is an exterior door - Mayberry Street Yorktown door from Hobby Lobby
Floor: wide plank House Works
Chair rail molding and baseboards: Hobby Lobby, they no longer carry these styles
Crown molding: from a Miniatures store on Ebay
Door knobs and key hole: Classics, repainted aged bronze
Paint finish: Latex interior house paint (white walls and ceiling "Feather Down" by Benjamin Moore (leftover real house living room paint), and a mix I made for this room (latex interior house paint - white base, nave blue, brown, and gray added). Aged with creme wax with a little Waverly "Mineral" chalk paint added. Dirtied up some areas with creme wax with a little brown wax.
Downstairs room reno
Teenage dollhouse addition remodel project
Simplicity dollhouse by Real Good Toys
1:12 colonial style house
Tried to do a short tutorial on hexagon's interface for Hexagon by daz3D. ITs free till march 31st. Its a very simple and straight forward sculpting program which I use mainly up till now. The best feature is its built in sculpty plugin, which makes sculpting for secondlife super easy. Am not very good with tutorials but i hope this helps those that are trying to learn :)
link to download www.daz3d.com/i/3d-models/-/hexagon-2-5?item=4222
Design: Masha Athanasiadi
Thank you, Masha, for giving me permission to demonstrate your wonderful design!
30 modules, Ratio: square, No glue!
YT Tutorial: youtu.be/uApXZOyK4u4
Article to this design: origamitutorials.com/argyle-kusudama-tutorial/
Allsizes, its a little bigger
I've been getting a lot of requests to do tutorials on the colorings I do. Now, I can't do tutorials on EVERY coloring I do because that would take forever, and I don't even remember how I do half of them because honestly, I just mess around until I like it haha. But I've finally made two coloring tutorials for you all, thanks for being so patient with me since I've been promising these since forever.
Before I start I apologize for my explaining-skills, they're not that good hah. And on top of that, English isn't my first language as you might know..so be easy on me. I'm gonna explain it from scratch, so yes, in the beginning its like photoshop-for-dummies. (No offense if you're having trouble with them)
Also, colorings turn out different on each photo. So if these look weird on the photo you chose, you probably did nothing wrong..its just the photo.
These tutorials are made in Photoshop CS4, but usable for any version of Photoshop. Okay, enough talking. Lets get to business.
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COLORING ONE
STEP 1.
First, open Photoshop (omgosh, I know.. take a breath!). Now open a new blank file (FILE >NEW), I made mine size 450x600.. but this is up to you.
So, this is what you should have right now :
Now place your photo want to use (FILE > PLACE) and make it the size you want. Your screen should be like this now :
This is optional, but usually I sharpen the photos because they are quite blurry. And even if they're not, sharpening just adds something to them.
So, go to FILTER > SHARPEN > SHARPEN
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
STEP 2.
The picture I chose is quite dark, so I'm gonna lighten it a bit. I'm gonna do this with CURVES.
This is where you find this option :
Once you click this, you will get this on your screen :
Now, just randomly drag the line to a direction. When you do this you will be able to change the numbers that say INPUT and OUTPUT :
These are the settings I used :
INPUT 209, OUTPUT 227
If your photo is still too dark (or bright) play around with these a little.
This is what I have now :
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
STEP 3.
Now were gonna do apply a SOLID COLOR, this can be found here :
After clicking this a screen will appear with a color dock on it. In the lower corner there is a little section where you can add the code to a color you want to use :
This is the code you'll need to paste in there to get the color were gonna use : c7c67c .. which is green-ish. Now you can't see your image. Not good. Were gonna put the solid color on SOFT LIGHT so we can see it again :
It looks pretty nasty now, but this is what mine looks like :
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STEP 4.
Okay so we need to get rid of this green slime look. Its not the KCA's now is it? Now were gonna apply a SELECTIVE COLORING , this is where you can find it :
Now, this little screen with swatches will pop up :
Where it says REDS, you are able to choose which colors in the photo you want to accentuate or fade. In this first selective coloring were only adjusting the
REDS, CYANS and BLUES. These are the settings I used :
REDS
-100
+59
0
0
CYANS
+89
0
-100
0
BLUES
+100
0
-100
0
Not much difference, but this is what I have now :
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
STEP 5.
Final step! Are you still holding on? So, were gonna do another selective coloring now. This time were only going to adjust the REDS, NEUTRALS and BLACKS
REDS
-100
+71
+100
0
NEUTRALS
+70
-12
-56
0
BLACKS
0
0
0
+100
If the blues are still to dominant, make another selective coloring and repeat what you did on the BLACKS on this one.
That was it! Please tell me if you're having trouble. And I'd love to see your resuslts! This is my result :
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COLORING TWO
First repeat STEP 1 & 2 of coloring one :)
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STEP 3
The first thing we need to do is to make a HUE/SATURATION layer. This is where you can find it :
Now this little dock will appear, with three swatches on it :
The settings I used are :
HUE : -59
SATURATION : -26
LIGHTNESS : 0
Don't panic, I know.. the picture looks pretty weird now. I made Demi look like Barney, as in the dinosaur :
Obviously we don't want it to stay like this, so were gonna put the layer on SOFT LIGHT :
A lot better huh?
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STEP 4
Next thing we need to do, is to make a COLOR BALANCE :
Another small dock will appear, put the first swatch on +19 :
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STEP 5
Now its time for a CHANNEL MIXER :
A small dock will appear, with three swatches. The first one will already be set to +100, change this to +94 :
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STEP 6
Now a step thats a little more difficult, but I'll try to get you through. Embrace yourselves. Were gonna do a CURVES layer :
The same dock as in the previous tutorial will appear. The little bar at the top that says RGB can also be set to Red, Green and Blue.
We will only change the settings for the RGB, Red and Blue.
First the RBG. If you did the previous tutorial too, you now know that you will first have to randomly drag the line to a direction so you'll be able to change the settings in the INPUT and OUTPUT boxes.
But the difference this time is that we have to make two points instead of one, so after putting in the settings for the first point you randomly drag another part of the line to fill in the settings for the other point.
The settings for RBG POINT 1 are:
INPUT : 157
OUTPUT : 144
POINT 2,
INPUT : 209
OUTPUT : 205
Now the reds, which only has one point :
INPUT : 170
OUTPUT : 176
And as last, the blues. Which has two points :
POINT 1,
INPUT : 30
OUTPUT : 32
POINT 2,
INPUT : 233
OUTPUT : 235
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STEP 7
You're still holding on? Okay good. This step is easy, its a SOLID COLOR layer :
The color you need to fill it with is called : 150a05 :
Set this layer to DIFFERENCE and bring the opacity down to 50% :
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STEP 8
The final step! Its a BRIGHTNESS/CONTRAST layer :
The settings I used :
BRIGNTNESS : -6
CONTRAST : +22
And were done! My result :
Now remember, it works differently on every photo. Show me your results! :)
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We made it to Italy!
Watch the vlog: www.youtube.com/watch?v=KQhKd30Klwc
Spent the morning in Milan before making our way to the beautiful Italian Alps. I have SO many photos coming! 💙
—
LIGHTROOM PRESETS | www.digitalfilmactions.com
INSTAGRAM | www.instagram.com/juliatrotti
TUTORIALS | www.youtube.com/juliatrotti
BLOG | blog.juliatrotti.com
Full color photo tutorial over on Moda Bake Shop:: www.modabakeshop.com/2011/02/sunkissed-squares.html
I got the idea for twine wrapped around a plastic cap from toolae_lady_m on Instagram. She had nicer twine. I used a children's medicine cup. I made sure to wrap most of the inside, too.
Added a layer of air dry clay to the bottom to partially fill it and save a bit on my Dimensional Magic.
Used coffee and Dimensional Magic Modge Podge for the soil.
Added a plant stem from Michael's.
Here is the tutorial I used:
This is my very simple tutorial on doll hair curling. This is the way I use all the time on 1/6 scale dolls. I'm sure every doll customizer has their own way. Use at your own responsibility!
You need small bag closers or pipe cleaners. In my experience pipe cleaners hold better, but they also leave little fuzz in the hair that you'll have to wipe out afterwards. I use whatever whenever I feel like it. It's useful to cut them in a really smile size for this project. I make them about one inch long. You can roll as small or big hair strands as you want, but the small ones make smaller and better lasting curls that can last a long time even in Saran hair without any products.
Step 1: Roll a strand of hair around the bag closer or pipe cleaner into a very tight croissant, starting from the end of the strand, and rolling hair over the end so that it doesn't unravel. Tie the ends of the closer around each other as close to the scalp as possible. I usually do 20-30 of these croissants.
Step 2: Dip the doll's head in hot water. Tea water is hot enough; there's no need to burn your fingers with boiling water. Dip the head in cold water right after; it should make the curls last better.
Step 3: Let the doll's hair dry for a few hours, preferably overnight. You'll feel it in your hand when the hair is not damp anymore. If you want loose curls, though, feel free to not wait so long. If you want any product in the hair, spread it over the croissants when the hair has dried and let it set for as long as it takes for the particular product to dry. You can put a hair net on the doll's head to make the curls hold their tight positions better when they dry.
Step 4: Open the croissants gently... and you get teeny tiny curls! It's best to divide them in two if you want a natural look, or you can leave them bigger and tie them into a beautiful updo - not necessarily on the male dolls, though. ;-) Note that if you do big curls, it matters which way you open the croissants. You'll see why when you try it. I'm always annoyed by factory curls because they all open in the same direction. Personally, I like to vary it to make the curls frame the face in a flattering way.
Hopefully this is useful for someone. :-)
Tutorial part 1: www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ct4_V6JPisU
Part 2: www.youtube.com/watch?v=_f2hur8ASW8
Part 3: www.youtube.com/watch?v=M76jqEMXGbk
part 4: www.youtube.com/watch?v=nof3P6vTWo8
Part 5: www.youtube.com/watch?v=qSWE5qepbFM
Hope you enjoy:)
any questions just comment ...
<3
blogged
sunshinescreations.vintagethreads.com/2007/09/squared-up-...
1. imgp5403, 2. imgp5405, 3. imgp5406, 4. imgp5407, 5. imgp5408, 6. imgp5409, 7. imgp5410, 8. imgp5411, 9. imgp5412, 10. imgp5413, 11. imgp5414, 12. imgp5415, 13. imgp5416, 14. imgp5417, 15. imgp5418, 16. imgp5419
Created with fd's Flickr Toys.
Ok I’ve done a second raw processing and exposure blending tutorial (and to be honest the rest of it too). So if you are in the slighted bit interested in spending an hour of your life listing to me talking about post processing, then head over to my new Facebook group and get heckling…
www.facebook.com/groups/194044880700259/
(Note, the group is centred around workshops that I deliver, but people who are interested in this type of thing are welcome to come and hang out too…(as long as you don’t mid some of us talking about how much fun it is coming on one of my workshops, he he!)
Oh this shot is from our short lived winter weather a few weeks back. Oh how I miss the snow now, it seems like such a long time ago!!!
IF YOU USE THIS TUTORIAL, SHOW ME WHAT YOU MADE WITH IT
I developed this technique to make hair for sculptures because it is too difficult to find it to buy where I live, and if I find, there isn't the color I wanted... I am pretty sure there is more people with the same problem!
This is an easy way to make hair for your sculptures/ dolls! Of course isn't that good than synthetic hair, but is better than nothing. Ribbon can be found in a good amount of colors.
See more at www.vonborowsky.deviantart.com
recuerda tener marcadao el http o habrá serios problemas con los inventarios (carpetas, cosas vestidas, el avi será una nube... y más cosas).
Hay que MARCAR "INVENTARIO HTTP".
Está en el menú DESARROLLO (Menu Avanzado (ese lo activas con ctrl + alt+ D) ),
(En SINGULARITY: Preferencias-Red: Usar HTTP para.... y tener marcado Inventario.)
Resultado de un tutorial-plus para la revista Solo Photoshop Magazine:
www.solophotoshop.com/revista/
Esta una muy buena revista con estupendos tutoriales y tecnicas en el diseño.
En el tutorial enseño hacer un diseño, solo con el photoshop como si estuviera apenas instalado, se usaron solo cosas del photoshop y nada mas.
Muy recomendable.
Using a 1x2 round jumper (part 1745) to adjust the stud spacing on a 6x6 round brick or plate also allows you to create a ring of 1x2 round plates (part 35480). This opens the ability to stack evenly space parts. Uses for this technique could include creating flowers with uniform pedals or a large wheel with spokes. I used this trick to create the Corinthian capitals on the columns in my upcoming model.
Here is an alternate version for creating a circle in LEGO using the "ring pop" (part 5264). This design pushes the curved portions to the corner of the model rather than having them on the top and sides making it useful for vertical assemblies. It could also be extended to create rather sturdy cylinder.
I have created 10 and 20 stud wide circles with this method but it could essentially be used to create a larger circles by using longer slope parts.
Como eu tinha falado no post da unha de Dálmatas, me pediram o tutorial dessa unha aqui nesse blog: daniele-daiane.blogspot.com/2010/09/daily-nail.html
Espero que ajude vcs! :D
1. Pinte a unha com algum esmalte clarinho. Eu acho que usei uma camada de Batida de Coco e uma de França, ambos da Colorama.
Faça manchinhas em todas as unhas. Pra isso, use um palitinho. Faça algumas bolinhas aleatórias, duas bolinhas grudadinhas e alguns borradinhos, variando dos tamanhos.
2. Escolha uma unha para fazer a coleira. Com um pincel e tinta pra nail art ou esmalte vermelho, faça um risquinho horizontal.
3. Com um pincel fino e tinta pra nail art ou esmalte preto, faça o contorno do traço vermelho. A dica que eu dou para fazer contornos finos é deixar o pincel quem retinho para cima e fazer o traço só com a pontinha dele, sem encostar muito na unha.
Faça uma bolinha com esmalte dourado logo abaixo do traço vermelho. Na verdade, eu usei tinta 3D dourada da Acrilex, daquelas que a gente usa pra trabalhinhos na escola.
4. Passe um pouquinho de esmalte com glitter no traço vermelho. Eu usei o Hits 368 de glitter forte vermelho.
Depois de passar o glitter, com pincel e esmalte dourado (ou a tinta 3D) faça um risquinho meio tortinho, como se fosse uma vírgula, bem no centro do traço vermelho e logo em cima da bolinha dourada.
Faça um número dentro da bolinha dourada com esmalte ou tinta preta.
Se a decoração foi feita com tinta pra nail art, passe uma camada de incolor para proteger os desenhos.
Twitter: @rubiaolivo
não sou muito bom com tutoriais mas quando fiz essa unha resolvi ir tirando fotos. Acho que da pra entender certinho como foi feito. Uma dica que não fotografei: pra fazer os losangos eu fiz primeiro mini bolinhas pra marcar as extremidades e depois liguei e pintei pra garantir um tamanho mais padrão.
Action "Set AllEdges01 AE3" - free download
©2005-2011 AlexEdg AllEdges (www.alledges.com)
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Este es un pequeño tutorial para poder obtener algo de lana afieltrada de una forma fácil y económica, se me ocurrió la idea (no seré una pionera, claro, jeje) y la comparto para a quien le interese. Es ideal para realizar cosillas pequeñas o detalles sin la necesidad de comprar muchos colores. Eso sí, no hay nada como comprar lana afieltrada de calidad, esto es más bien... un "apaño" :)
Hi Bee's
Hoje no FofuriceRules tem o tããão esperado TUTORIAL da Nail Art de Ovelhinha o/
Deu tudo certo no vestiba, agora é esperar :3
To super cansada, então se eu me ausentar um pouco da internet é porque to recuperando as forças,
nada mais digno né? SDLKÇJSLKDJSÇLKJDLSKJDÇLKJ
Pra conferir o post é só clicar: FOFURICE RULES ♥
Ou ir direto ao vídeo:TUTORIAL ♥
Qualquer dúvida só falar,
XOXO ♥
_______________________________________________________________________________
@deborawernke (\_(\
And here you get the second part of my RevoluzZza easter decoration tutorial: blog.revoluzzza.com/?p=1350
I hope you'll enjoy it and sew many, many cute little birdies :-)
Two drawer wood chest from Jo-Anne's or Michael's.
Stain the wood with black or brown Sharpie.
Legs are round dowel, one inch long.
Cross stitch Aida cloth for speaker cover.
Screen is an image found on Pinterest.
Control knobs are beads and scrapbook stickers stuck to balsa wood.
cachemash tutorial
by H.Manon
Cachemashing is my name for a somewhat more controlled approach to what Daniel Temkin identified as the Photoshop Truncating Glitch—an approach to image glitching that exploits a problem with early versions of Photoshop. Cachemashing is in my view a relatively pure or true form of glitching, because my control over the outcome is limited almost exclusively to the selection of input files, and to standard user-end changes to Photoshop settings. Once these decisions are made, Photoshop glitches a truncated jpeg file in ways that are difficult and at times impossible to predict. However, what makes this technique compelling is that, through practice, one may nonetheless develop and refine a personal approach, even if the final cause of the glitch remains opaque—a mystery taking place behind-the-scenes of Photoshop’s interface.
I want to preface what follows by saying that I am not a programmer. Although I am fairly savvy as a Photoshop user, my understanding of the program’s internal workings are almost nil. I'm sure if I knew more about the causes of this technique I would be less interested in it. The fun here is really in the "not knowing why."
In this tutorial I mainly describe how I arrived at the image above (a glitched “Currier and Ives” style print of a duck hunt). These specific techniques could be altered in numerous ways and still produce the effect of a cachemash.
What you need to cachemash:
1) Photoshop 6.0 or earlier. I am running Photoshop Elements 1.0, which is the Elements version that corresponds with PS 6.0. My system is Windows XP, and I know that the technique also works when Photoshop 6.0 (or PE 1.0) is installed on Vista. I have not tested this technique on any other OS.
2) A truncated jpeg file in which the point of truncation appears close to the top, resulting in a mostly “blank” image when opened in PS. Jpegs are easy to truncate using code editing programs like Notepad++. My approach is to open the jpeg in Notepad++, delete a couple of lines of data somewhere just below the file header, save, and then open in PS. You have succeeded when you open the file and receive the golden message “This document may be damaged (the file may be truncated or incomplete). Continue?” Sometimes it takes ten or so tries to successfully truncate the file, rendering it partially damaged, but not too damaged to open.
3) At least one non-truncated image file that you want to form the mashed-up content of the final image. These are the files you will load into the PS cache.
4) A computer that has sufficient speed and RAM to process the size of image you want to produce.
The procedure:
1) Open a truncated jpeg in Photoshop. The truncated file I used for the “duck hunt” cachemash is 4500 x 4822 pixels @ 300 ppi. The compression rate of the truncated file does not seem to matter. The original image content also does not seem to matter, since the truncation renders it blank.
2) The message pops up: “This document may be damaged (the file may be truncated or incomplete). Continue?” Click OK. You will see a blacked-out image, with perhaps a tiny line of color at the top (depending on how near to the top you truncated the file).
3) Now is when you can get creative, in a fascinatingly limited way. Open any file or set of files. Manipulate them as usual in PS, or not. Then close them. For the “duck hunt” image, I pre-sized a jpeg at a width of 8984 (almost but not quite twice the width of the truncated file). This is the trick to obtaining something like a “full frame” cachemash in which the cached image is fully or mostly visible in the final version.
4) Use the filter called Gaussian Blur on the truncated file. A blur radius setting of 0.1 pixels is ideal. This procedure “fixes” the mashed image, in the photographic sense of the word; it stabilizes the data which, up to now, tended to load randomly into the void space of truncated file. The result is a mash-up of certain files and parts of files that have been temporarily stored in the PS cache. (Note: I use Gaussian Blur at 0.1 because of all the possible filters, this one seems to least alter the final image, while still “fixing” it. However virtually every PS filter will "fix" a truncated file).
5) The truncated file is now cachemashed. If you like the results, save to the file format of your choice.
6) Undoing the Gaussian Blur returns the truncated file to its volatile state.
7) Redoing the Gaussian Blur will give new results each time. However (and this is what makes the technique really interesting), the more you undo and redo, the more your “fixed” images also become part of the PS cache. You might think of this as “caching the cache.” If you undo and redo fifty times, the image will be really minced up. But, if at any point you open a new non-truncated jpeg in PS, that jpeg will become part of the cache, and may appear largely in tact as a portion or layer of the mashed image.
Some other tips and observations:
1) In the process of doing and undoing, you will see that when the PS cache attempts to “fill in” the truncated image, it does so in a cycle. The length of the cache cycle is controlled by the size of the cache you elect in Preferences > Memory & Image Cache. I mostly keep cache levels set at 8 (this is max) and RAM used by PS set at 100%. Striking embroidery-like effects can be achieved by reducing RAM used by PS down to 15% or so.
2) Incorporating high contrast RGB images (color or b/w, doesn’t matter) yields brighter colors in the final “fixed” version. Low contrast images produce subtler, more muted colors.
3) Introducing Inverted (i.e. negativized) images to the cache produces interesting results, as do images to which Gradient Map has been applied.
4) It is very unusual to produce a final cachemash that is grayscale, but it sometimes happens.
5) The non-truncated sliver of the truncated file will appear as a black band at the top of the final “fixed” version. I usually crop this out, but this is the only post-processing I do. All of the other effects in images I have posted to Flickr happened prior to the moment of glitching, which I take to be the moment at which PS “fixes” the images.
6) It is possible to create the same cachemash twice. Just open the same files in the same order with the same settings on the same machine. This suggests that there is nothing random about cachemashing. At the same time, if you begin by caching an image that is even one pixel larger or smaller, the results after several cycles of do-and-undo could be radically different.
7) If you overlay the PS crop tool on top of a truncated file, and there is data in the cache, the space within the cropped area will weirdly animate. When you press “crop,” the animation will stop because the image is now fixed.
8) When the final colors you achieve are saturated reds, blues and greens, it is sometimes possible to experience the optical illusion called chromostereopsis.
I will continue to add observations on this page as they come to me.
Good luck!
HM