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I've just posted an in-depth photoshop tutorial on adjusting facial contrast on my blog here. Obviously it's too long to post in the image description on flickr!

 

Image on the left is with face contrast and other retouching applied. Image on right is straight out of Lightroom.

 

strobist/lighting info: well you've seen this one already, but I used two SB-28s on a bracket, in a 43" shoot through umbrella, camera right. Fill light was an SB-28 in a Lumiquest Softbox III, just below camera height and slightly to the left. Triggered with Cybersyncs.

This picture shows how to build the subunit for my 'Rhombic Triacontahedron Frame' and you will need 30 of them for a complete shape.

 

Step 1: Make a little square and go around interlocking. You can make as many layers as you want - that will define the size of the shape.

 

Step 2: Add 2 more layers but leave out the corners (blue magnets).

 

Step 3: Bent the blue magnets up.

 

Step 4: Cut off the top layers in the middle (on the picture 4 layers), turn it around and press it to the final form. You will have 1 magnet which sticks out - just grap it and put it in the same corner the magnetchain below. And last but not least add 2 magnets on each of the two corners that are more pointed.

 

You will end up with a pretty stable rhombic subunit!

 

Hope this will help you

Kylar

  

Tutorial...soon...

This photograph is part of a tutorial describing how I create my vertoramas.

Sliding your finger inside the top layer, squash the flap along the creases you made in the previous step

Oggi vi mostro come utilizzo il flash della 40D in fill-in per scatti in controluce, spero che vi possa essere utile!

Canon 40D,tamron90mm, f14, iso320, 1/20, treppiedi, flash 40D diffuso, scatto remoto.Se volete informazioni dettagliate su come ho realizzato lo scatto... il tutorial lo trovate sul mio sito a questo indirizzo : www.laspinaphoto.altervista.org/Tutorial/Tutorial2/index....

I added another layer of stain, some landscaping and moss!

 

Thx for following along with me :)

 

Process detailed at www.torisaur.com.

Esse foi meu eleito como make de Ano novo. Dourado tem tudo haver com a virada, né? Transpira riqueza, e quem é que não quer? ehehe

 

Hoje resolvi largar de mão o meu preto amado pra ornar com esse clima de leveza e "O Tchan" da make fica por conta da sombra/pigmento baratézimo da Kollos, coisa de R$8 e arrasar muito. Nas fotos minha câmera não captou o real poder, mas assistam o vídeo que tenho certeza que vão gostar.

 

www.youtube.com/watch?v=YGDythxxf8Y

 

Base Studio Fix MAC - NC 35

Corretivo Duda Molinos - Cor 01

Blush Warm Soul MAC

Iluminador Soft and Gentle MAC

Primer Urban Decay

Sombra Bronze MAC

Pigmento Shine Mix Koloss

Sombra dourada Audrei Casatti

Pigmento Blue Brown MAC

Delineador em Gel

Rímel Colossal Maybelline

Sombra marrom opaca da paleta Champagne&Caviar NYX ( sobrancelhas )

Lápis de boca Natural Koloss

Batom Bossa Duda Molinos

part 1/ tradução :com o pincel verde( pilcel de traços longos) faça a folha ou os galhos .

desculpem foto de celular ...

Please note that there are three pages to this tutorial

 

Small note to people who add this to their favourites ... I freely share the tutorials. In return, the only thing I ask is that you do the same. Bottom line: block me from viewing your stuff, and I'll return the favour

No pretendo ir tan lejos como para intentar hacer de esto un tutorial, (ni menos enseñaros a dibujar, que yo tampoco sé tanto), pero si al menos explicar, o si acaso facilitar, para quien tenga curiosidad o quiera hacer algo parecido, los pasos generales que he seguido para realizar esta imagen, mostrandode paso algunos truquillos :)

 

Imagen a tamaño completo, aqui

 

0)

Partiendo de una capa gris medio, y con un pincel fino, con colores blanco y negro básicos, he trazado en lineas generales los principales rasgos de Clint, superponiendo y calcandome directamente de la foto: ojos, nariz, y demás rasgos clave.

(Siento no mostrar esta fase, pues sencillamente no lo guardé en su momento :S)

 

1)

Lo que veis es una fase más acabada, donde basicamente he procedido a añadir más detalle, pero sin dedicarme tanto a las sombras y volumenes

 

2)

En una capa nueva transparente, y en modo de fusión color, he empezado a impregnar manchas de color. Colores ligeramente más saturados en las sombras, mas apagados en lo que van a ser las luces... y por supuesto fijandome en la fotografia original

 

3)

Por ultimo, otra capa más, tambien transparente y en modo de fusión normal, con un pincel ancho y suave, he procedido a crear los volumenes de luz, aclarando y sombreando segun zonas más amplias. Por último, he recortado la silueta.

 

4)

El fondo creo que es casi cómico contar como lo he hecho: Se supone un cementerio, un paisaje lleno formas mas o menos desenfocadas que en realidad son lápidas, cruces de formas claramente rectilineas.

Empiezo por delimitar el horizonte, con los colores azul y verde en un degradado muy pequeño. Ahora, para simular las vagas siluetas de las lápidas, he hecho una capa nueva, y escogiendo tonos ocre de distinta luminosidad, he creado una capa de nubes, a la que posteriormente he aplicado un filtro 'Coloured Pencil' (no sé como se traduce este filtro en la versión española), y lo he girado 45º. He duplicado la capa un par de veces y la he aumentado, para crear el efecto de perspectiva (las lapidas más cercanas son obviamente de mayor tamaño) Con unas vagas pinceladas he credo los arbustos del fondo (aunque ahora me parecen mejorables) y he añadido algunas manchas y sombras más de forma aleatoria. Por último, he aplicado, mediante un par de capas nuevas en modo Overlay (Superponer), unos degradados de blanco a negro, uno en sentido vertical y otro en horizontal, a los que he ajustado luminosidad, gamma y transparencia de forma conveniente.

 

5)

Filtro 'Lens Blur'... y magia! tenemos un fantastico paisaje de lápidas calcinadas bajo el agresivo sol del desierto almeriense perfectamente fuera de campo :D

Añadir a esto una capa de ajuste rebajando la saturación, y otra de capa 'curvas' aplicando una mágica 'S' que casi completan el efecto. Aún falta una pizca de ruido, y un pelin de 'enfoque' con el radio relativamente alto, quiero recordar que alrededor de 20px, queda completado el efecto.

Nota: algo muy parecido hice en su momento para esta otra imagen: el fondo es tremendamente simple, pero dado que queda fuera de foco (y con ruido), es obvio que no es necesario más detalle.

 

...

 

Ya está, unímos ambas capas (alguna pincelada hace falta para acabar de ajustarlas), y con un degradado radial para crear el efecto de viñeteado, se puede considerar acabado el dibujo :)

Video tutorial informational graphic flyer design for Loyal TV.

 

About W Creative Design

We do Print, Web, and much more! We believe in making the creative process fun for everyone involved. In design, illustration, or online, we’re here for you. Life is too short to not enjoy another project.

We help people create intuitive and engaging websites.

We’d love to have a chance to create your new online identity. As experienced web designers we can apply our skills to:

 

• Blog Design & Marketing

• Email Design & Tracking

• E-Newsletter Design

• Front-end Web Design

• Online Presentations/Demos

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TUTORIAL HERE!👇👇🔥🔥

youtu.be/aYryHDgb9NE

youtu.be/aYryHDgb9NE

This is Designed bt Katsuhisa Yamada!

HAPPY HALLOWEEN!😊🎃🎃🎶

This is Designed bt Katsuhisa Yamada!

HAPPY HALLOWEEN!😊🎃🎃🎶

Ponemos una nueva argolla tomando cuatro alfileres.

Mark 2 sides of your ruler with a pencil, then rotate it. (If you are doing 2 1/2 inch blocks you don't need to rotate it! Just mark around it.)

small tutorial i made for someone.

 

sorry i haven't been uploading anything lately, but i got busy with school finals (trying desperately not to fail the grade) and recently went to Germany for a kind of...education vacation. so i really havent had that much time for folding anything. I will once I am back in america, though...

The “INKredible 2″ Pack includes 20 NEW polymer clay patterns sheets designs introducing a variety & mix of materials to use along with alcohol inks.

 

These sheets can be applied in any bead, jewel, or accessory of your choice – flat or curved, small or large.

I implemented my pattern sheets on earrings & beads.

 

The materials I used are probably already in your polymer clay toolbox, taken from many of my previous classes –

Alcohol inks, chalk pastels, paints, stazon inks, stencils etc.

 

This class is a new version of my known previous INKredible class, now offering a celebration of exciting, new techniques, encouraging you to use anything on your worktable, along with alcohol inks.

 

20 patterns came out of my personal laboratory, but the combinations are infinite!

 

www.polypediaonlineexpress.com/product/complete-inkredibl...

 

If you are interested in combining these beads in elaborated, impressive Micro Macrame knotting, you are welcome to check out the new "INKredible Macrame" class -

www.polypediaonlineexpress.com/inkredible2-inkredible-mac...

I loved making this page and filled it with things I love. It was fun taking pictures of myself (something I never do). I found this verse in a book and it sums me up - completely....

 

for Scrap Busters Month at Sew, Mama, Sew!

 

blogged

How I shirred the back of my Lonsdale Dress! Tutorial via Sewaholic blog!

Quick & Easy business cards.

 

I have been contemplating ordering some "real" business cards for some time now, but really didn't know if I would ever need them. Well, yesterday I needed them. After meeting with 20+ Etsy sellers, I really wished I had my "fancy" business cards to swap. I did, however, have these quick and easy ones that I whipped up Friday night (I made more today to tide me over until my "real" ones come in a few weeks).

 

In case you too find yourself in need of some last minute business cards, here is a little tutorial to get you swapping in no time:

 

1. Buy a pack of business cards, size 3-1/2" x 2". I found my pack of 250 business cards at Big Lots, for a buck! I am sure they have them at Office Depot or Staples as well, but I would check Big Lots first.

 

2. Open up a document in Microsoft Word. I assume other programs can create business cards too, but I used Microsoft Word.

 

3. In Microsoft Word click "Tools", "Letters & Mailings", "Envelopes & Labels". Pretty easy, so far!

 

4. Choose your card size. This one is important, or all of your text will be funky. With "Envelopes & Labels" open, click "Options". Scroll down through all of the options until you find the business card size that matches your cards (ex. 3-1/2" x 2"). In my Word program it is Avery 5377 business card. Click OK.

 

5. Type in your text. Now this step is a little tricky if you have a design on your card, like I do. I had to test a few pages before I got mine right. I moved over, with the space bar, 23 spaces before I started typing in my text. This cleared the design and centered my text.

 

6. Spell Check!!! The last thing you want to do is print the entire sheet, or worse all of them, and then realize you misspelled a word!

 

7. Copy your text. I am not sure if all programs require this, but Word doesn't save your text after you print one page of cards. Or, maybe it does and I just don't know how to do it. In any case, it is best to right click and copy your text BEFORE printing your first sheet of cards. This way you won't have to go through all of the steps every time you want to print a sheet.

 

8. Print your cards. First, make sure the cards are put in the printer the right way. Thankfully, mine came with the instructions on every sheet, but you might have to send a sheet through first to test it. Then, check to see that the "print full page of the same label" circle is checked. If it is, you are ready to click print.

 

There you go! You now have some super fast, super inexpensive cards to give out to everybody you know.

Made a new tutorial video tonight. Check out the AMAZING production value (just watch the first 20s www.youtube.com/watch?v=IZn8Alq2DEo&feature=youtu.be)

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