View allAll Photos Tagged Subframing
Fastener pack 101 parts needed for rear subframe install. In the end I did away with all but two washers for the underside of the front mounts as the bolts were not long enough with washers top and bottom. This may be because I'm using after market bushes but don't think so
Ben finishes off the front of the subframe cuts to make room for exhaust pipes. I plan to use the 7mm bent Dural sumpguard and it's steel support frame as the front crossmember, it'll probably bolt in.
Poly bushes are supposed to not need any special presses or tools but I guess that's one reason why the Powerflex ones are more expensive.
I sprayed a bit of silicon lube on th epoly parts and they slipped straight in. The central insert needed a bit more force to get it more than a 1/4 of the way in so I went back to the home made bolt, nuts and washers puller technique which worked fine.
Might need a little beefing up where it meets the tube meets the subframe brackets, time will tell. We also need to pick up the guard, probably direct to the underside of the subframe.
20 subframes, 5 darks 3 minutes. 80 mm apo vixen sphinx mount
May not look like a world beater, but it's my first prime focus galaxy under my own steam.
said 60 subframes before, my mistake. confusing 60 frames and 60 minutes!
M Model subframe has an extra bracket to support the mudguard, using the 2 bolts in the middle of the picture
20 x 30 s subframes were captured at ISO 400 using my Canon 500D mated to a Stellarvue 102ED2 telescope, mounted on a Vixen Sphinx SXW (NexSXW-modified). Guiding was done using my new StarlightXpress Lodestar in an Orion off-axis guider, my first attempt at using this setup. Pre-processing (calibration, normalising and stacking) were done using Nebulosity 2 and post-processing in PixInsight.
The new bolts were just slightly too long to fit down on through the top of the forward mounts due to the shape of the chassis so I went up from underneath. Made torquing them a little more tricky but it's done now.