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We haven't yet been given the screws or instructions on fitting the lower deck structure or front bulkhead to the subframe structure, but I have put everything loosely together for the pictures.
This is the completion of issue 50 of the bus, a significant milestone. I have been extremely impressed with the quality of the parts, most of which are metal and heavy, plus the very clear instructions with each magazine. I had a delay right back at the beginning with one delivery but (touch wood) everything else has arrived without any problems, including the bonus gifts, although I am aware that some other subscribers have experienced some serious problems.
Some parts have been fiddly to put together, mainly because I have adult sized hands and my fingers can't always get into the hard to reach places.
So far, the only modification I have made is very minor. the handbrake as supplied was just plain brown. I added black paint to the top handgrip and silver chrome to part of the mechanism to make it look more realistic. As I mentioned on another picture, I may well paint the screws in the back of the seats to lessen their impact.
Just Gas Tanks is your complete online shop for husaberg fuel tank, husaberg safari tank, clockwork tank, acerbis tank, rally tank, rear tank, rear fuel tank and husaberg subframe tank etc.
BSH brings you the staple of drivetrain reinforcement. The kit is a three piece design, a main body, an intermediate body, and a polyurethane subframe insert. Each component has been designed to accomplish rock solid performance, easy to maintain, and aesthetic enhancement of the respective part of the car.
Performance Features:
As we are sure you’ve noticed the factory motor mounts have a ton of give in them. Torque mount inserts are a good start but there is still another bushing left to give slop to the overall feel of the engine. Our billet mounts reduce the ability of the engine to flex back by incorporating 88a durometer bushings and the billet bodies to hold them. Once installed you will notice significantly less movement from engine under acceleration which will result in a better ability for the power you are making to be transmitted to the road.
After installation you will notice the following:
Significantly reduced engine movement.
More feedback from the engine
Greatly reduced wheel hop
More defined throttle input
Smoother shifts for both DSG and Manual cars
Product Features:
During development we spent considerable time studying the factory part and incorporated many of the features into our performance rendition. These little additions turn the part into more then just a solidified way to connect point A to point B.
On the main body of the factory part there is a visible bit of material coming through the bushing. This material is used first to align the bodies of the mount and also to hold the hardware in a double shear. The point where the mounts bushing will flex puts stress on the solid hardware that holds the mount in place. The double shear allows the machined body to bear much of this burden before transmitting this force onto the hardware. This feature not only makes the part easier to install but also greatly increases the reliability.
On the tail end of the main body we have matched the OEMs profile to allow for a simple installation. The curves allow the body to lock into place into the factory position.
See pictures three and four in the "see more images" section for more information.
The hardware used is grade 8 stainless steel to ensure corrosion resistance. Also included is the one time use factory bolt.
All major components have been hard anodized black to give a classy and stealth appearance to the vehicle.
Compatibility with various OEM configurations:
This kit will fit the following vehicles:
VW GTi & GLi 2.0T (DSG and Manual)
VW Rabbit and Jetta 2.5 (Manual Confirmed, Auto testing not yet complete)
VW Passat 2.0T (DSG and Manual)
VW MKV R32 (DSG)
Audi A3 2.0T (DSG and Manual)
Audi A3 3.2 (DSG)
MGF subframe - removed all the rust, and painted in Isopon "Zinc 182" primer. This is the first stage in the RUST PROTECTION PLAN!
The recipe seems easy:
- remove upper suspension arms
- remove coil springs
- remove lower suspension arms
- remove steering rack
- loosen 29(!)mm bolts
- loosen V-mount bolts
- loosen engine damper bolts
That took multiple days, all in all, replacing all worn parts, and rustproofing all metal that I disassembled.
This is the end point of front end dismantling: a major milestone! Now 'only' a bit of welding and assembly can start!
20 x 30 s subframes were captured at ISO 400 using my Canon 500D mated to a Stellarvue 102ED2 telescope, mounted on a Vixen Sphinx SXW (NexSXW-modified). Guiding was done using my new StarlightXpress Lodestar in an Orion off-axis guider, my first attempt at using this setup. Pre-processing (calibration, normalising and stacking) were done using Nebulosity 2 and post-processing in PixInsight.
My Holden Adventra LX8 is 18 years old this year, and still looking pretty good. I need to clean up a spare subframe and k-frame for it, and generally keep cleaning up a lot of elements, but it's looking good.
The rear of the subframe, which shows how substantial this thing is. This is from above and gives a good look before the floor and lower deck is fitted, although when that is, I don't know!