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Been a great year or so with this lens, but it's time to move on to different things -- which necessitates selling the 85.
If you're interested, please check out the eBay auction. Thanks.
Super busy the past couple of weeks; barely able to get things done, let alone have time for Flickr. See you soon.
When your shower shelf looks like this.
I was trying to get some droplet shots on the glass door (that did not turn out) and I just had to laugh when I looked at my Canon cap on my shelf and realized (yes, once again) what a weirdo I am.
half frame camera with a 32mm f1.7 manually focusing lens. Focusing is from infinity to 2.5 feet. A selenium meter around the lens automatically sets the correct aperture and shutter speed in program fashion -- 1/30 at f1.7 to 1/800 at f 16.
Début d'une nouvelle série de photos sur Dublin, ville que j'ai eu la chance de visiter cet été. Les premières images arriveront demain !
Begining af a new set of pictures about Dublin. I was there last summer. First pictures will come tomorrow!
Please, do not leave award without comment and no multiple group invitations. Constructive criticism and suggestions are always welcome! Thank you !
Julien Tordjman © | Google + | www.julientordjman.fr
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Lightpainter: Frodo DKL Brand Ambassador at Light Painting Paradise
Photography: Frodo Álvarez Children of Darklight
Date: 21/01/2019
Location: Alrededores Torres Kio Madrid
Sponsors:
Shot made with OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA OM-D E-M1 MrkII
www.olympus.es / @esolympus #esolympus #olympus
This gentleman is a Leica dealer at Schönherrs Foto in Stockholm. He gave me a needed lenscap for free and wanted me to try the astronomically priced 50mm Summilux ASPH on my camera. I did. I set the aperture at 1.4 and took this badly underexposed pic of him. With a lot of PS work I managed to salvage some of the photones that he reflected onto my film.
Purma Special 1937 Bakelite camera.
Made by Purma Camera Ltd. London. A design classic, with a rather idiosyncratic shutter design. The lens is spring loaded. When the lens cap is attached, it presses the lens mount into the camera body. The shutter speeds are slow, medium, fast, gravity controlled by holding the camera vertically or horizontally. It takes/took 16 31mm. square photographs on 127 film.
It belonged to my grandfather, his name is stamped neatly in several places on the case and strap, and I found it amongst my father's possessions.
I also have some photographs taken with the camera.
A try out of manual focus on the camera (no instructions).
The instruction booklets (about 6 miniscule pages if you are lucky) that come with new electronic equipment these days are no help. You either go on line to find something or guess and hope you remember what you've done!
A week ago I photographed 24 people in an hour. I needed a quick reliable setup to take these headshots. The Nikon D7000 really shined in details as I saw details (chipped and repaired teeth!) during editing, that I'd never seen before with my Nikon D80 and D90.
I chose a safe dual lightsetup with natural light coming from a window, the Sigma EF-530 DG bounced off a curtain camera left and a SB-800 on a tripod shot through a Westcott umbrella providing fillflash from camera right (left side of person's face).
All manually set after some testshots F/8 at 1/100s and the SB-800 set at M 1/16 EV -2/3 (The Sigma can't be set; so in ML(ow) flash setting). Triggered with Cactus V5 wireless triggers. Taken with the Nikkor 105mm VR.
Postprocessing:
Used the excellent tutorials from Laurence Kim.
- Reduce darker lower eyeline with patch tool and a seperate layer.
- Corrected whitebalance (was bluer) with the whitish curtain in the background.
- Softened skin with 2 layers
- Brightened eyes, dodge tool
- Removed some distracting hairs under her ear.
Tips:
- Keep the endresult – in this case photos for a possible book – in mind when choosing location and background.
- Take 10 to 15 minutes for some testshots to find and/or create some good light on a face.
- If there is a lot of sun, take into account the movement of the sun (from east to west) during your shoot.
- look for an interesting background without vertical lines (no better options at this location)
- use gaffertape – not a lenscap! – to mark an X for subject to stand behind
- Slight slants or 10 degree sideways head tilts are more interesting (as in this specific shot). She did this by herself, but you can force a slant by positioning the feet at a slight angle. Then a person will need to rotate to face the camera.
- Take at least 3 shots per subject (on the minimal side!) for at least one useable one.
- If you can. Take along an assistant or friend for the testshots and have them hold a indirect bounce light.
- Take a polarizing filter for people with glasses! (Knew this, but I don't have a 62mm polarizer) or you'll see yourself in the subject's glasses.
- Introduce yourself, make clear how the photos will be used, chit chat and make your subject comfortable.
- Compose in camera! Look in the viewfinder what you'll photograph and get rid of little annoyances. (such as clothing bits and bobs)
Pinhole IR images taken with a full spectrum modified a5000 with wide angle homemade pinhole lenscap.
This one is for Dada Mar. She has the sweetest picture of her son doing the same thing with his mamas lens cap. Visit her beautiful stream.
To shoot this photo I used a Nikon telephoto lens. 55-300mm. A few studio lights and a table did the trick.
"Who are you? Make a self portrait today and show the rest of us what you look like."
Problem: arms not long enough to get camera far enough away for full body shot.
Problem: spends waaaay too much time juggling.
Solution: throw camera, then fire it in the air using a wireless remote (see right hand). Flash fired wirelessly from camera with Cactus V2 triggers. Wish I had a fisheye, but for now I'll settle for the lyrical awesomeness that I just discovered in the phrase, "wish I had a fisheye."
I posted a making-of video here.
This is my first shot using DSLR functions just after getting my DSLR Nikon D40. I put the lens cap on my leg and took the snap.
This is a 100% crop of an image from my 60D taken with my new Canon 15-85mm f/3.5-5.6 IS USM lens.
The full shot is the previous photo in my stream.
As you can see, this lens is incredibly sharp. This photo is untouched.
Shot handheld, fully zoomed in at 85mm, f/5.6, 1/80th, ISO 1600.
An die inneren Klappen des LC-1 habe ich selbstklebende, halbrunde Gummifüsschen aus dem Baumarkt geklebt. Dadurch ist bei 60mm (weiter eingefahrenem Objektiv) keine Vignetierung mehr vorhanden. Funktioniert tadellos.
Usually the most handy thing that I use to attract attention and make eye contact when I want to photograph a cat is the lens cap ...I scratch it ... and the cat focus up and I click the button !
Another shoe/leg shot from Journalism. I loved how my shoes matched the substitute [who was amazing by the way] clothes and Mike's.
Lightpainter: Frodo DKL Brand Ambassador at Light Painting Paradise
Photography: Frodo Álvarez Children of Darklight
Date: 21/01/2019
Location: Alrededores Torres Kio Madrid
Sponsors:
Shot made with OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA OM-D E-M1 MrkII
www.olympus.es / @esolympus #esolympus #olympus
i know, i know, bad editing, bad idea, bad shot. i'm sorry but i'm totaly tired tonight and i didn't want you guys to think i forgot about you. but this is how i'm feeling right now, i just wan't to drop it all and take a nap (hibernation). check out the notes^
standard testing this week...):
Copyright 2013 Hilde Heyvaert.
All rights reserved.
No unauthorized use, reproduction or distribution without prior permission.
Cameras from left to right: Panasonic DMC-LX1, Olympus E-P1 with M.Zuiko DIGITAL 17mm 1:2,8, Leica M8 with Voigtlander 40mm F1.4 NOKTON CLassic S.C., Nikon D200 with Nikkor 85mm F/1.8D.
As seen from the subjects view. Sunlight coming through window and curtains.
SB-800 on stand shot through Westcott umbrella. Lenscap to designate position for subject. I took the photos with the 105mm VR from the first table's edge in the background.
Tip: What I hadn't understood before is that the closer the umbrella is to your subject the softer the light will be (I figured it would be the other way around). That's why midday sun gives such harsh shadows. The umbrella is about 1 metre or 3 feet away from subjects face.
Don't have direct sunlight shine on your subjects face or you'll get a nasty blocky blown lightpatch on your subjects face. Have your subject just out off, but near the windowlight.