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I like to whipstitch my my binding/back-side hexagon (in blue) to the quilt top hexagons (in white) in two phases: (1) sew along all the blue & white hexagons with white thread, and (2) attach the blue hexagons to each other with blue thread. I place a blue hexagon on top of a front-side hexagon (white) with the right sides facing. And then use a whipstitch to attach the blue hexagon to the white hexagon. I pick up another blue hexagon, and do the same. In this way, you'll have a bunch of blue hexagons attached to the white hexagons, but then they won't be connected to each other. Then, I use some blue thread to whipstitch the touching blue edges together, making sure to reinforce the corners where the four hexagons meet.
Sometimes I have to take out a hexagon's paper and undo its basting to reshape it to fit its neighbor hexagon. If you're using hand-made hexagon templates, you might have to do the same!
It's important to notice that this process is slightly different from piecing a hexagon quilt as you want the blue hexagons to overlap exactly with the white hexagons on which they're placed.
1.Download your lol from ichc
a.On www.icanhascheezburger.com go to your lol's page (eg. this one is mine.icanhascheezburger.com/view.aspx?ciid=3948250)
b.Highlight the title of the lol (the text above it) and copy it
(you don't have to do this - I just find it makes it easier to title the lol in flickr – we're doing it here so we can easily use the title as the filename)
c.Right click on the lol pic
d.Choose [Save Image As...] from resulting drop down menu
e.In the Save Image window that pops up, choose the directory on your computer you want to save the lol to
f.Paste the title of the lol in the filename field
g.Click [Save]
h.Repeat for all the lols you want on flickr
i.Your lol is saved on your computer!
1a. An alternative way to save your lol
If you've screencapture software (eg. MW Snap) you could capture the lol and details underneath it to fully credit loller and picture - see stilskweekz (peregrin)'s example here.
2.Log on to www.flickr.com
a.Log on to www.flickr.com (whole other story to join - lemme know if you want a how-to for that!)
3.Upload your lol
a.There's a series of links at the top of the page - [home] [you] [organise] etc - select [You]
b.Select [Upload Photos and Videos] from the pulldown menu
c.I've had a couple of different pages come up in response but they're all similar
d.This bit should be straightforward, but just in case ... Click on [Choose Photos and Videos]
e.Go to the directory you saved the lol(s) in
f.In the resulting Select Files etc window you can select just one file at a time or, if you've several in the same directory you can select individual ones using [Ctrl] or a block using [Shift] when you click on the lol
g.Click on [Open]
h.Your lol or list of lols should be shown on the flickr page
i.Set the privacy using the toggle buttons
j.Click on [Upload Photos and Videos]
k.You'll now get options to add titles, tags, etc. or you might have to click on a [description] button (it varies when I visit it!)
l.When you're done click the Save button
m.Now your lols are added to flickr!
4.Add you lol to a pool
a.If you look at the individual lols you've just added (go to [You]/[Your Photostream] and click on the lol) you'll see they have options directly above them - [Add Note] [Send to Group] [Add to Set] etc. Select [Send to Group] and you'll get a pulldown menu of the groups you're a member of.
b.Select the group/pool you want to add your lol to.
c.You're done!
If you're going to be uploading a lot of pics onto flickr you might like to try their uploading software – it lets you set up descriptions, titles and tags on your own computer before you upload. I find it very useful. www.flickr.com/photos/upload/basic/
Note: you need to be a member of a group/pool to add lols/pics to it.
I use the lol title for the flickr title and add 'by muriell' for mine, or credit who did the lol if it wasn't me.
Tags: I use 'ichc' for everything from ichc and the name of the loller. If you want to use a tag with more than one word, eg. 'animal rights' you need to put quotes around it. Tags make it easier for other people to find pics they're interested in so it's good manners to add tags.
Description: I try and credit whoever took or uploaded the picture in the description - apart from that it's up to you!
Think that's it. Please feel free to add any clarfications - or ask for them - below.
Hope this halps!!
Kthxbye.
Fold the paper and trace the bottom half of the hexagon template along the fold, as shown. Be sure the two side points line up with the fold.
Step 1: Choose a small pot with a fitting lid and place on the stove top.
Step 2: Place 1 Cup of Rice in the pot.
Step 3: Add 1/2 teaspoon of Salt.
Step 4: Place 2 Cups of Water in the pot.
Step 5: Turn burner onto highest setting.
Step 6: Bring to a boil.
Step 7: Boil Rice for about 5 minutes, or until the water has reduced and there are only small foaming bubbles on the top of the Rice.
Step 8: Reduce heat to low and cover the pot with a lid.
Step 9: After about 5 minutes of cooking, lift lid to check. You should not hear any frying or crackling noises. If you do, add about 2 Tablespoons of water.
Step 10: To check the status of the Rice, instert a spoon until it touches the bottom of the pot.
Step 11: Pull out the spoon, some rice will stick to it, and taste the rice. Depending on the type of rice (long grain, short grain, bastmati, etc.), the rice will either be half way done or only a few minutes away from completion.
Step 12: Re-cover the pot and check every 2-4 minutes for desired done-ness. The Rice should cook on low for 7-15 minutes total depending onthe type of Rice you are cooking.
Step 13: Repeat steps 10 and 11 to check for done-ness. The longer you let the Rice cook, the stickier it should get.
Step 14: Fluff the Rice by stiring it with a spoon. The Rice can be eaten right away or be incorporated into another dish.
This recipe makes 3 1-Cup Servings.
That is just how I do it, it's an alternative method to do it. Actually I don't use to avoid the "blip" of color that often.
Refer also to Jane Eborall's page here: www.janeeborall.freeservers.com/noblips.pdf
and Frivole's blog post here: leblogdefrivole.blogspot.com/2013/09/something-new.html
Nuskin ~us00021446 , lomics.co/l/CfjTwZzV4e
Download Lomics:
IOS - m.onelink.me/de143c61
Android - m.onelink.me/5301f4f0
Last time I used white paper on the left and right of the glass. The rims get their lights from the left and right as the background and the paper on the left and right are not entirely together.
If you want to do it properly check out this picture.
strobist info:
SB-900 with diffusion dome behind black paper, -0.3EV, camera -2.7EV and @f11 to eliminate the rest of the ambient light. Triggered with the camera's internal flash.
Now you can flip the blue hexagons right-side-out, so they fold underneath the quilt top and over the batting and backing.
The most frequently asked question - How to choose a front door color? There is no single answer, but in our article, we tried to elucidate all nuances of choice!
Check out goo.gl/EaeRFH
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This series of images will guide you through modifying an HS-311 servo to give continuous rotation in either direction, with a degree of speed control.
The modification is non-reversible, but these servos are cheap as chips so this shouldn't be a big worry.
Connect the servo to your microcontroller (here an Arduino) and tell it to move to position 0 (i.e., a pulse width of 1500µs). The gears should start spinning, unless it was previously at 0.
Now superglue the tab in place. Use lots of superglue! This is the second non-reversible step. If you accidentally move the tab a bit, you should still be able to fix it. If not, don't panic, you can fix it in software later.
Using tweezers, move the potentiometer tab until the gears completely stop moving. Be as accurate as possible, though you can compensate for it not being dead centre in software later.
well not really, i sure know the F-16 much, MUCH better than this stuff!
i scored some really old equipment (oscilloscope and pulse generator), but i have no idea how to use it. cant even produce a sine wave as-is. :(
any ideas are welcome, of course.
well, at least those things smell strongly of electronics when in operation. so yeah, i think i'll just go to sleep while smelling their scent of nerdyness for now. =)
ps: will reply to other stuff in the next few days.
I did this one to explain a friend how to make an amigurumi bear. Its was in mcdonalds while i was eating some deluxe fries. :-D
If you're using a 2-inch hexagon, you should cut ~3-inch squares of fabric. (If you're using a different size hexagon, just add an inch to the height, and cut that size of square fabric).
You could cut the squares into hexagons at this point, but it's just easier to leave them as squares.
The BristleBot is a vibrobot with an agenda.
It's built with a vibrating pager motor and the busines end of a toothbrush that has slanted bristles.
Using the diamond hole cut in the paper hexagon, pin it to the approximate center of the [wrongside of the] square of fabric.
The credit card holder has a couple of support vanes moulded into it. These are important when paired with a money clip, but they cause a problem if you want to use two card holders.
Tap a sharp knife firmly, once, right into the pit, and twist it out. Avo must be ripe for this to work.
(Testing my theory that Flickr is perfect for quick HOWTO vids.)
Here's the Lifehacker post.
Fold another side of the fabric along the next edge of the hexagon. This second fold should overlap with the first.
It is important to mat your pictures. Pictures will last much longer if they are behind glass or plexiglass. Pictures that touch the glass or plexiglass directly will stick to it and be ruined. The mat and backing board suround the picture and prevent it from touching anything it shouldn't be touching and also act as a moisture and chemical barrier.
So you have all of the required supplies. You have your picture, the pre-cut mat, and some tyvek tape.
Notice that the picture is in a plastic bag. Storing pictures out in the open is generally regarded as a bad idea. I'm just using the plastic bag that the pictures were shipped to me in. There are also bags designed to hold single matted pictures when you are done.
Dry mounting, wet mounting, and spray mounting all tend to be not archival because you cannot remove the picture later from the mat. You want to "hang" your picture, just from the top. I chose tyvek tape. It has an archival adhesive on the back and doesn't outgass and ruin your pictures. This way you don't need to mess with mixing up or wetting glues and potentially getting water and messy stuff all over the place. I got my tape from Light Impressions.
I'm too obscessive compulsive to cut my own mat boards. I'd throw out too many boards if I did, so I just buy pre-made mats. They aren't that expensive by comparison and this way I don't sweat over a mat cutter and stuff. Be careful about the matting material. It must be acid free and not outgas. The cheapest matting material usually isn't. I picked my stuff up from a local art supply store. Light Impressions sells mat boards, but there are equally archival, but less expensive, pre-cut mats.
Pretty much, when you are matting photographs, white is the only color you want to use, and you probably want to use a wider mat. It sets the image off of the wall better. Pinhole says that he sees 10x10 photos on 16x20 mats. 8x10 in a 11x14 frame is just not enough these days. :)